Do you resize new brass before reloading?

[creet]

I've got a pack of new Remington brass, most of the necks look fine to the eye. 40 out of 50 about look good to the eye.

A few though have noticeably wonky necks.

Do you guys resize new brass before reloading? Or do you just seat the bullet in the imperfect necks and let them stretch it back into shape?

[inspector]

Ideally, yes.

Seems like a bit of a pain to put 'new' brass through the sizing process but it's best to do it.

A lot of bullets will seat no worries, but you might peel a few jackets on the rough necks.

[on_one_wheel]

every time... to ensure propper neck tention.

[Vati]

A lot of bullets will seat no worries, but you might peel a few jackets on the rough necks.

Best to do it for consistent neck tension anyway.

[Vati]

Bah, sorry on_one_wheel.

You beat me to it

[Tonit]

New brass is always all over the place straight out of the packet.

Full length size for all out of the packet, and a trim wouldn't go stray if you feel like it. There always a fraction longer than spec after you size them.

[Warrigul]

I've got a pack of new Remington brass, most of the necks look fine to the eye. 40 out of 50 about look good to the eye.

A few though have noticeably wonky necks.

Do you guys resize new brass before reloading? Or do you just seat the bullet in the imperfect necks and let them stretch it back into shape?

Ah, good old remington, I always trim to length and deburr the necks and let the rest of the case fireform- as long as they are in the ballpark.

[Sakoh]

Ah, good old remington, I always trim to length and deburr the necks and let the rest of the case fireform- as long as they are in the ballpark.

In the ballpark is pretty broad for packet brass, some of my Remington brass necks look like someone had at them with a pair of pliers before packing them

[Chronos]

If you plan on doing any reloading for accuracy I suggest f/l sizing every case to uniform them, measure a few then trim them all to the shortest length and deburr the case necks so that are all uniform in length.

I also uniform primer pockets, deburr the flash hole and turn the necks to clean up around 75% of the neck.

Now every case in the batch will have identical outside dimensions. Important if you ever decide to weight sort cases but even if you don't the cases will be match prepped

Chronos

[Bills Shed]

+1 with Chronos,
Be it range pick up or new brass, they all get the same treatment before I reload it. Only thing I do not do is neck turn.

Bill

[Warrigul]

Ah, good old remington, I always trim to length and deburr the necks and let the rest of the case fireform- as long as they are in the ballpark.

In the ballpark is pretty broad for packet brass, some of my Remington brass necks look like someone had at them with a pair of pliers before packing them

I am not too fussed about them until I have fired them once as long as they are within spec and without any major deformations that won't correct with firing. Full length sizing new brass before firing is only working the case for no real gain. It is a bit like neck turning before they are fireformed, nice if you want to kill time but pointless really.

Once they are fireformed to one of my target rifles then I start batching and from then on only neck size with the occaisonal bump from a body die and annealing every ten to fifteen reloads. I have never had to full length size new brass of any brand to get it to chamber.

I don't think neck tension is as big an issue when you are seating close to the lands and unless there is a thickness issue(I often trim when necking cases down) I leave the turning tools on the shelf, I personally want to see return for time spent and if I can see no appreciable benefit in what I do I don't waste the time. I gave up primer pocket uniforming and deburring and ,mandatory neck turning after serious load development showed there was no benefit for me personally and I haven't suffered, but that is me not gospel.

I definately wouldn't bother for hunting loads.

Just my humble opinions.

[Blackened]

I don't think neck tension is as big an issue when you are seating close to the lands and unless there is a thickness issue(I often trim when necking cases down) I leave the turning tools on the shelf, I personally want to see return for time spent and if I can see no appreciable benefit in what I do I don't waste the time.

Neck turning's a whole additional process too obviously. Not something for the majority of reloaders I'm sure...

[Chronos]

I don't think neck tension is as big an issue when you are seating close to the lands and unless there is a thickness issue(I often trim when necking cases down) I leave the turning tools on the shelf, I personally want to see return for time spent and if I can see no appreciable benefit in what I do I don't waste the time.

Neck turning's a whole additional process too obviously. Not something for the majority of reloaders I'm sure...

but essential for good concentricity IMHO, i am amazed how much variation i often find in neck thickness, even when using quality brass like lapua. most sizing dies will make the outside of the case neck concentric to the case but any uneven neck thickness will leave the inside of the neck out of alignment with the bore of the rifle. not good for accuracy

how much difference it makes to your own group sizes from your rifle is for each shooter to decide but i believe it helps reduce the number of unexplained fliers. some target shooters will set aside a case that produced a flier for rechecking, weighing or simply put it aside for fouling or sighting shots but as we know this simply may not apply to most shooters, rifles or hunting ammo

Chronos

[Blackened]

Sure, I'm not knocking neck turning.

Just mentioning that it's not the kind of thing you'll find if your average reloaders' kit.

[Chronos]

Sure, I'm not knocking neck turning.

Just mentioning that it's not the kind of thing you'll find if your average reloaders' kit.

Yeah I know what you were saying but I believe it should be. My K&M set up runs in my cordless drill and I can skim 100 necks in very little time at all and for all of my rifles its a one time job. A small price to pay for peace of mind as far as bullet-bore alignment goes

Chronos

[mahna]

Chronos, can you tell me what just the neck turning portion of your reloading setup cost you?

[Chronos]

Chronos, can you tell me what just the neck turning portion of your reloading setup cost you?

yeah mate, i bought everything from stuart and annie at BRT, they do a kit, you just have to tell them what caliber, 6mm, 6.5, 7mm, .30 cal etc so they can send you the correct pilots. i use the carbide pilots which ream any donuts at the same time but they are more expensive.

the standard kit is $105

the individual items are available seperately but the kit is cheaper and they have flat rate shipping so you can buy some brass or bullets at the same time and shipping will still be $12



http://www.benchrest.com.au/casebulletp ... nd-m-tools


Chronos

[nords]

You just put the case in the shell holder in the power drill and stick it in the turner then do you?

[Warrigul]

Sure, I'm not knocking neck turning.

Just mentioning that it's not the kind of thing you'll find if your average reloaders' kit.

Yep, I don't bother at all for my .303's or hunting rifles and I wouldn't recommend it as necessary for anyone but a target shooter.

I have two sets of neck turning gear, one set inherited, but statistically it was of no benefit to me. I occaisonally check runout and thickness and since I have been using a collet die runout is negligble. Once the brass is fired in a rifle it is as perfect a match for concentricity that you can get.

I think an ordinary FLS or neck die distorts the necks horribly making turning of some value but a collet die makes turning mostly redundant. If someone is down the bushing die path then they know enough already.

Once again just my humble opinions.

[Chronos]

You just put the case in the shell holder in the power drill and stick it in the turner then do you?

The handle on the shell holder comes out and goes in the cordless drill. A low speed and off you go. A cut with the cutter then a polish with some steel wool a d its done. 100 cases takes over 1 hour but as I said worth doing IMHO if you believe uniform neck tension is important.

Chronos

[Norton]

100 cases takes over 1 hour but as I said worth doing IMHO if you believe uniform neck tension is important.

Not a truly thorough test, but some a good show for it here from photos from Baldrick314.

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=820

Photos near the bottom of the topic.

[creet]

Thanks for the feedback guys.

I've been slack with it in the past and just seated the bullet to stretch out the necks of wonky new brass.

I'll resize them in future before loading.