.243 pros and cons, What can it do and what can’t it do?

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Re: .243 pros and cons, What can it do and what can’t it do?

Post by Arcwolf » 14 Jan 2019, 10:49 pm

Blr243 wrote:Can somebody please delete my repetitive posts


I tried to do it for you but doesn’t seem to allow me, I appreciate reading it multiple times because it helped made me more confident in my choice of caliber :lol:
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Re: .243 pros and cons, What can it do and what can’t it do?

Post by Faedy » 14 Jan 2019, 11:41 pm

Ive got Ruger American ith Boyyds stock. Shooting OSA ammo, it is a ripper outfit. I constantly nail roos at 350 - 400m. Pretty hard to do much shooting over that range where I am
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Re: .243 pros and cons, What can it do and what can’t it do?

Post by sungazer » 14 Jan 2019, 11:46 pm

I have a Sako 85 in 243 need to check twist but it will shot the GK and pro hunter 105s no problem and also the Berger 90 grn targets as well as lighter bullets. go a long heavy barrel in a quality factory and you will cover all bases.
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Re: .243 pros and cons, What can it do and what can’t it do?

Post by straightshooter » 15 Jan 2019, 6:59 am

Arcwolf wrote:I’m looking for as much information as possible, I’m looking at a .243 for general target and hunting purposes. My first rifle I may add.

I’m after information about possibilities and limitations, barrel types for a first rifle that can do both target and hunting applications moderately well eg. fluted vs heavy pros and cons.

I look forward to all your reply’s !!


A 243 is a reasonable compromise caliber for all but the biggest game.
You will need to clarify your thoughts as to exactly what you perceive as hunting or for that matter target shooting and what the principal use of the rifle will be.
For hunting where the rifle must be carried for extensive periods then a heavy barrel is a pain, so a light to medium weight barrel is the way to go. 24 inch is about the right length, that's why so many factory rifles come with that length. Any less than 22 inch and the noise and muzzle flash becomes noticeably pronounced. Any longer than 24 inch sometimes becomes cumbersome to carry in scrub or mallee and feels wobblier to shoot offhand. Far more important is the fit of the stock to your physique.
For informal target shooting, well, any barrel will do.
For more organised target shooting, or trying to shoot groups that you can brag about, then a medium to heavy barrel is desirable and 26 inch would be preferable over the common 24 inch length.
Fluting the barrel mostly is a waste. It does about the same as 'go faster' stripes on performance cars.
Factory barrels, whether stainless or chrome moly, are made to a price so I wouldn't agonise over one or the other. Whether you get a "good" one to some extent depends on luck. You need more luck at the cheaper end of the market.
It is a different matter with custom barrels.
With the higher velocity capability of a 243, management of copper fouling can become an issue. Learning how to correctly clean and being able to recognise when you have completely eliminated the copper fouling from your particular barrel is something you will have to teach yourself and not rely on internet pundits. Otherwise your rifle will inevitably end up on used guns for somebody else to uncover the problem.
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Re: .243 pros and cons, What can it do and what can’t it do?

Post by Runnymede » 15 Jan 2019, 7:41 am

Great all rounder.....I use mine to take foxes and wild dogs as it has the legs to reach out. Took a Sambar stag on my property a few years back, thought I was taking a spiker but after dropping him on the spot turned out he was a full grown stag with malformed antlers. Of course bullet placement is everything but it can hit hard.
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Re: .243 pros and cons, What can it do and what can’t it do?

Post by Arcwolf » 15 Jan 2019, 9:10 am

straightshooter wrote:
Arcwolf wrote:I’m looking for as much information as possible, I’m looking at a .243 for general target and hunting purposes. My first rifle I may add.

I’m after information about possibilities and limitations, barrel types for a first rifle that can do both target and hunting applications moderately well eg. fluted vs heavy pros and cons.

I look forward to all your reply’s !!


A 243 is a reasonable compromise caliber for all but the biggest game.
You will need to clarify your thoughts as to exactly what you perceive as hunting or for that matter target shooting and what the principal use of the rifle will be.
For hunting where the rifle must be carried for extensive periods then a heavy barrel is a pain, so a light to medium weight barrel is the way to go. 24 inch is about the right length, that's why so many factory rifles come with that length. Any less than 22 inch and the noise and muzzle flash becomes noticeably pronounced. Any longer than 24 inch sometimes becomes cumbersome to carry in scrub or mallee and feels wobblier to shoot offhand. Far more important is the fit of the stock to your physique.
For informal target shooting, well, any barrel will do.
For more organised target shooting, or trying to shoot groups that you can brag about, then a medium to heavy barrel is desirable and 26 inch would be preferable over the common 24 inch length.
Fluting the barrel mostly is a waste. It does about the same as 'go faster' stripes on performance cars.
Factory barrels, whether stainless or chrome moly, are made to a price so I wouldn't agonise over one or the other. Whether you get a "good" one to some extent depends on luck. You need more luck at the cheaper end of the market.
It is a different matter with custom barrels.
With the higher velocity capability of a 243, management of copper fouling can become an issue. Learning how to correctly clean and being able to recognise when you have completely eliminated the copper fouling from your particular barrel is something you will have to teach yourself and not rely on internet pundits. Otherwise your rifle will inevitably end up on used guns for somebody else to uncover the problem.


Mainly target shooting until I can dial in my skills and go on hunting trips but eventually I will go hunting more then target shooting, target shooting is just basically to ensure that I can put the round exactly where it needs to be as often as possible! Thank you for such a detailed response, definitely food for thought
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Re: .243 pros and cons, What can it do and what can’t it do?

Post by Arcwolf » 15 Jan 2019, 9:11 am

Runnymede wrote:Great all rounder.....I use mine to take foxes and wild dogs as it has the legs to reach out. Took a Sambar stag on my property a few years back, thought I was taking a spiker but after dropping him on the spot turned out he was a full grown stag with malformed antlers. Of course bullet placement is everything but it can hit hard.


This is pretty much what I want to do also!
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Re: .243 pros and cons, What can it do and what can’t it do?

Post by Bruiser64 » 15 Jan 2019, 9:12 am

I have a Tikka .243 T3X Lite Stainless. I like the rifle and calibre a lot. As others have said, the 243 is very versatile. When I first bought it, I used the Buffalo River 70 grain hollow point ammo. I switched to 87 grain Vmaxs as the Buffalo River ammo used a match projectile which was accurate but inconsistent in its performance on game. My version of the Tikka is designed to be carried around in the field and to make a small number of shots at a time. The barrel heats up quickly if you shoot 4 or 5 or more shots in quick succession. The rifle is accurate and I like its versatility. It will kill any game l am likely to come across here in the far south of WA.

I can recommend the Tikka. I am happy with what my rifle does and how it does it. I have posted on a number of occasions that in my experience one rifle cant do it all. Whilst the 243 is a versatile calibre, my particular iteration of it is best suited as a walk around hunting rifle. If you want something to use on the range as well, you will need to decide what end of the compromise spectrum you want to be on and make your decision accordingly. My preference is to get the right tool for the job at hand. Highly effective rifles can be had for not a lot of money, so just buy several. Especially since you live in Queensland and it is easier to get additional firearms than it is here in WA. If you like the 243 you could get a Tikka in a Lite version and a Howa in a varmint version, which covers a range of options. For me though, l would get a Lite 243, and a varmint 223.
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Re: .243 pros and cons, What can it do and what can’t it do?

Post by Arcwolf » 15 Jan 2019, 9:12 am

sungazer wrote:I have a Sako 85 in 243 need to check twist but it will shot the GK and pro hunter 105s no problem and also the Berger 90 grn targets as well as lighter bullets. go a long heavy barrel in a quality factory and you will cover all bases.


I’ve been hearing that 90gn is the sweet spot
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Re: .243 pros and cons, What can it do and what can’t it do?

Post by Arcwolf » 15 Jan 2019, 9:13 am

Faedy wrote:Ive got Ruger American ith Boyyds stock. Shooting OSA ammo, it is a ripper outfit. I constantly nail roos at 350 - 400m. Pretty hard to do much shooting over that range where I am


What’s your aim point at that range, the heart?
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Re: .243 pros and cons, What can it do and what can’t it do?

Post by juano86 » 15 Jan 2019, 1:02 pm

I'm running 95gr berger VLD's out of a Howa Varmint 24" (1:10 twist) barreled action and GRS stock. Consistently sub-moa at 1000yrd. Shooting steel. .243 is a great caliber to start with. loads of components, wont knock you around on the bench and isnt too expensive.
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Re: .243 pros and cons, What can it do and what can’t it do?

Post by Col » 15 Jan 2019, 1:19 pm

Bruiser64 wrote:I have a Tikka .243 T3X Lite Stainless. I like the rifle and calibre a lot. As others have said, the 243 is very versatile. When I first bought it, I used the Buffalo River 70 grain hollow point ammo. I switched to 87 grain Vmaxs as the Buffalo River ammo used a match projectile which was accurate but inconsistent in its performance on game. My version of the Tikka is designed to be carried around in the field and to make a small number of shots at a time. The barrel heats up quickly if you shoot 4 or 5 or more shots in quick succession. The rifle is accurate and I like its versatility. It will kill any game l am likely to come across here in the far south of WA.

I can recommend the Tikka. I am happy with what my rifle does and how it does it. I have posted on a number of occasions that in my experience one rifle cant do it all. Whilst the 243 is a versatile calibre, my particular iteration of it is best suited as a walk around hunting rifle. If you want something to use on the range as well, you will need to decide what end of the compromise spectrum you want to be on and make your decision accordingly. My preference is to get the right tool for the job at hand. Highly effective rifles can be had for not a lot of money, so just buy several. Especially since you live in Queensland and it is easier to get additional firearms than it is here in WA. If you like the 243 you could get a Tikka in a Lite version and a Howa in a varmint version, which covers a range of options. For me though, l would get a Lite 243, and a varmint 223.


Ditto to the above. I have a T3 SS varmint barrel and it is my everything rifle. Loves 95gn SST and 80gn SPBT. It will hit hard everytime. The 80gn are my usual load for hunting and they are used on everything from roos, foxes to pigs. I will say 90% of my shooting is from the ute and it is not a carry around gun. I also have a Winchester Model 70 that is 30 yrs old and it is a great carry roundrifle, both in 243.

I have recently bought a Howa varmint barrel 223 and a T3X stainless superlite in 308, however my 243 is still the rifle with me all the time.
The 223 is a bit light especially if there is much wind and the 308 too big for roos. They dont realise they are dead for a while after you hit them. Using 135gn HP Buffalo River ammo it just goes straight through and they realise that it is "curtains". The 243 drops them on the spot or very close to where they were hit.
The Stainless makes cleaning a little easier and the heavy barrel takes a bit longer to heat up.

Reloading for the 243 is easy and components plentiful. Also if you buy a T3X in 243 and then a 308 later (Tikka) the magazines are interchangeable.
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Re: .243 pros and cons, What can it do and what can’t it do?

Post by bigpete » 15 Jan 2019, 2:44 pm

Arcwolf wrote:
Faedy wrote:Ive got Ruger American ith Boyyds stock. Shooting OSA ammo, it is a ripper outfit. I constantly nail roos at 350 - 400m. Pretty hard to do much shooting over that range where I am


What’s your aim point at that range, the heart?


Supposed to be the head...
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Re: .243 pros and cons, What can it do and what can’t it do?

Post by Arcwolf » 15 Jan 2019, 4:05 pm

Bruiser64 wrote:I have a Tikka .243 T3X Lite Stainless. I like the rifle and calibre a lot. As others have said, the 243 is very versatile. When I first bought it, I used the Buffalo River 70 grain hollow point ammo. I switched to 87 grain Vmaxs as the Buffalo River ammo used a match projectile which was accurate but inconsistent in its performance on game. My version of the Tikka is designed to be carried around in the field and to make a small number of shots at a time. The barrel heats up quickly if you shoot 4 or 5 or more shots in quick succession. The rifle is accurate and I like its versatility. It will kill any game l am likely to come across here in the far south of WA.

I can recommend the Tikka. I am happy with what my rifle does and how it does it. I have posted on a number of occasions that in my experience one rifle cant do it all. Whilst the 243 is a versatile calibre, my particular iteration of it is best suited as a walk around hunting rifle. If you want something to use on the range as well, you will need to decide what end of the compromise spectrum you want to be on and make your decision accordingly. My preference is to get the right tool for the job at hand. Highly effective rifles can be had for not a lot of money, so just buy several. Especially since you live in Queensland and it is easier to get additional firearms than it is here in WA. If you like the 243 you could get a Tikka in a Lite version and a Howa in a varmint version, which covers a range of options. For me though, l would get a Lite 243, and a varmint 223.


I’m thinking the T3x lite and choosing a heavy barrel as I don’t mind carrying a little extra weight around. Eventually I will be adding a .223 and .22 but just to start out I’m pretty set on the .243 for targets and putting meat in the freezer.
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Re: .243 pros and cons, What can it do and what can’t it do?

Post by Bruiser64 » 15 Jan 2019, 7:28 pm

Arcwolf wrote:
Bruiser64 wrote:I have a Tikka .243 T3X Lite Stainless. I like the rifle and calibre a lot. As others have said, the 243 is very versatile. When I first bought it, I used the Buffalo River 70 grain hollow point ammo. I switched to 87 grain Vmaxs as the Buffalo River ammo used a match projectile which was accurate but inconsistent in its performance on game. My version of the Tikka is designed to be carried around in the field and to make a small number of shots at a time. The barrel heats up quickly if you shoot 4 or 5 or more shots in quick succession. The rifle is accurate and I like its versatility. It will kill any game l am likely to come across here in the far south of WA.

I can recommend the Tikka. I am happy with what my rifle does and how it does it. I have posted on a number of occasions that in my experience one rifle cant do it all. Whilst the 243 is a versatile calibre, my particular iteration of it is best suited as a walk around hunting rifle. If you want something to use on the range as well, you will need to decide what end of the compromise spectrum you want to be on and make your decision accordingly. My preference is to get the right tool for the job at hand. Highly effective rifles can be had for not a lot of money, so just buy several. Especially since you live in Queensland and it is easier to get additional firearms than it is here in WA. If you like the 243 you could get a Tikka in a Lite version and a Howa in a varmint version, which covers a range of options. For me though, l would get a Lite 243, and a varmint 223.


I’m thinking the T3x lite and choosing a heavy barrel as I don’t mind carrying a little extra weight around. Eventually I will be adding a .223 and .22 but just to start out I’m pretty set on the .243 for targets and putting meat in the freezer.


I think you will be pretty happy. With your choice. The 243 is very versatile. The Roos and foxes I have shot with mine were well and truly dead.
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Re: .243 pros and cons, What can it do and what can’t it do?

Post by Daddybang » 16 Jan 2019, 6:43 am

bigpete wrote:
Arcwolf wrote:
Faedy wrote:Ive got Ruger American ith Boyyds stock. Shooting OSA ammo, it is a ripper outfit. I constantly nail roos at 350 - 400m. Pretty hard to do much shooting over that range where I am


What’s your aim point at that range, the heart?


Supposed to be the head...


Yep not supposed to shootem anywhere other than the head! :thumbsup: :drinks:
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Re: .243 pros and cons, What can it do and what can’t it do?

Post by bigfellascott » 16 Jan 2019, 7:43 am

Arcwolf wrote:
Wombat wrote:A reasonable quality secondhand 22 would be the best first rifle to gain experience easily and cheaply. If you get a decently priced one and take care of it you can resell it without loosing any money.
I'm not saying dont buy a.243, just consider getting a 22 too.



I’ve done a bit of shooting, different calibers .22, .223 and .308’s also quite a lot of pistol shooting! I definitely agree with owning a .22 as it’s a staple caliber but I’m ready to start providing food for my family by ways of hunting and the minimum caliber for deer here in QLD is a .243 and that’s about as big of an animal I’ll be going for.


Mate if you are hunting deer get a light barrel, not some heavy thing which will be a PITA to carry any great distance. Also I'd look at going a 308 or something in the 7mm family over the 243 as you have Red Deer up that way and they are reasonably solid deer and I personally think the bigger cals would be more beneficial in some of the open country up there.

I think you are on the right track with the Tikka, they are generally light so easy to carry around the hills for hours on end. :drinks:
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Re: .243 pros and cons, What can it do and what can’t it do?

Post by marksman » 16 Jan 2019, 11:18 am

for what it's worth my opinion is that the 243 can be a very capable round if used with heavy projectiles
if you are going to have a crack at targets try the 105gr bergers, I use them for game as well, even head shooting rabbits for the pot at distance
I used a 243 for many years and do like the cartridge, here is a photo of it as a very lightweight carry around rifle

Image

then I turned it into a varmint style rig in 6mm dasher with a #6 contour barrel, in target terms it is still a lightweight target profile
shoots dots at amazing ranges now with very little effort, still a hunting rifle just used for a different type of hunting

Image

if I had any advise for you it would be to buy what will do the best job for you :thumbsup:
a varmint style for target or longer range hunting or a lightweight for stalking :drinks:
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Re: .243 pros and cons, What can it do and what can’t it do?

Post by solarpak » 16 Jan 2019, 2:57 pm

Arcwolf,
the 243 in an excellent choice for your first centre fire rifle but i agree with many other posters - buying a 22LR rifle will help you with getting to learn the fundamentals of shooting a rifle well - shooting off the bench, prone, free-hand etc.....

That aside, there are many wonderful rifles and i suggest for your first 243 something like the Howa, Franchi Horizon, Ruger American (ie under $1000 price point) are a great way to start.

if you want to do mainly target shooting (informally that is) a decent 70 grain factory load will suffice and for hunting, it depends on the quarry. I gave successfully used the Norma 100 gr Oryx load and the GECO 105 gr Teilmantel for deer up to the size of Red Deer without a problem.

But its a pleasant calibre to shoot and will do almost everything....
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Re: .243 pros and cons, What can it do and what can’t it do?

Post by Arcwolf » 16 Jan 2019, 7:18 pm

marksman wrote:for what it's worth my opinion is that the 243 can be a very capable round if used with heavy projectiles
if you are going to have a crack at targets try the 105gr bergers, I use them for game as well, even head shooting rabbits for the pot at distance
I used a 243 for many years and do like the cartridge, here is a photo of it as a very lightweight carry around rifle

Image

then I turned it into a varmint style rig in 6mm dasher with a #6 contour barrel, in target terms it is still a lightweight target profile
shoots dots at amazing ranges now with very little effort, still a hunting rifle just used for a different type of hunting

Image

if I had any advise for you it would be to buy what will do the best job for you :thumbsup:
a varmint style for target or longer range hunting or a lightweight for stalking :drinks:


Solid advice!! Much appreciated.
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Re: .243 pros and cons, What can it do and what can’t it do?

Post by Baronvonrort » 16 Jan 2019, 10:42 pm

Arcwolf wrote:
I’m thinking the T3x lite and choosing a heavy barrel as I don’t mind carrying a little extra weight around. Eventually I will be adding a .223 and .22 but just to start out I’m pretty set on the .243 for targets and putting meat in the freezer.



If you want to shoot targets you will need a 9 twist or faster with barrel for heavier VLDs and AMAX, not sure what the T3 comes with.

Since you mentioned adding a .223 and .22 later there is a bit more to consider

The .243 can send the 55gr projectiles a couple of hundred feet per second quicker than a .223 even with starting loads so not sure i would have both as i would just use the .243 for 55gr projectiles.


If i had to start from scratch again it would be 7mm-08 and .204 Ruger along with a .22lr, you can get Sierra 100gr Varmint projectiles and some Nosler 120Gr along with 139 gr SST for the 7mm-08 which is great for 100-150 gr projectiles. The 7mm-08 has good ballistics some might think higher BC means less drop at range it also means less drift in crosswind which makes it more accurate
The .204 Ruger is a great alternative to the .223.
The .22lr has the cheapest ammo

If i had to get another .243 i would go .243 AI,
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Re: .243 pros and cons, What can it do and what can’t it do?

Post by Faedy » 16 Jan 2019, 11:33 pm

Arcwolf wrote:
Faedy wrote:Ive got Ruger American ith Boyyds stock. Shooting OSA ammo, it is a ripper outfit. I constantly nail roos at 350 - 400m. Pretty hard to do much shooting over that range where I am


What’s your aim point at that range, the heart?

300 - 350 is always head shot if on a good rest.
350 + is heart shot usually.
With a rest, these are usually easily achievable if no weird wind
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Re: .243 pros and cons, What can it do and what can’t it do?

Post by Daddybang » 17 Jan 2019, 6:41 am

Faedy wrote:
Arcwolf wrote:
Faedy wrote:Ive got Ruger American ith Boyyds stock. Shooting OSA ammo, it is a ripper outfit. I constantly nail roos at 350 - 400m. Pretty hard to do much shooting over that range where I am


What’s your aim point at that range, the heart?

300 - 350 is always head shot if on a good rest.
350 + is heart shot usually.
With a rest, these are usually easily achievable if no weird wind


As bigpete mentioned earlier guys shooting roo anywhere other than the head breaches the national code and its probably best not to discuss chest shooting'em on a public forum as we know these sights are monitored by the authorities(not having a go just a heads up) :thumbsup: :drinks:
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Re: .243 pros and cons, What can it do and what can’t it do?

Post by duncan61 » 17 Jan 2019, 6:44 am

Nice shooting Faedy.My best shot was 270 metres using a 7mm Rem Mag off a adjustable rest support on the ground with 100gn gamekings.I held over an inch and planted it right in the melon. I use stalkers to push the game down in to The valley where I wait fully camo and this big fellow crosses the creek and stands still under a tree freestanding my best shot is about 20 foot.I am hopeless without support.where are you culling
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Re: .243 pros and cons, What can it do and what can’t it do?

Post by bigpete » 17 Jan 2019, 6:50 am

Daddybang wrote:
Faedy wrote:
Arcwolf wrote:
Faedy wrote:Ive got Ruger American ith Boyyds stock. Shooting OSA ammo, it is a ripper outfit. I constantly nail roos at 350 - 400m. Pretty hard to do much shooting over that range where I am


What’s your aim point at that range, the heart?

300 - 350 is always head shot if on a good rest.
350 + is heart shot usually.
With a rest, these are usually easily achievable if no weird wind


As bigpete mentioned earlier guys shooting roo anywhere other than the head breaches the national code and its probably best not to discuss chest shooting'em on a public forum as we know these sights are monitored by the authorities(not having a go just a heads up) :thumbsup: :drinks:


Also no further than 200m....
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Re: .243 pros and cons, What can it do and what can’t it do?

Post by SCJ429 » 17 Jan 2019, 6:56 am

Baronvonrort wrote:
If i had to get another .243 i would go .243 AI,


What benefits are you getting from the Ackley Improved version?

I know from a coolness point of view it looks really special and makes 6XC, Lapua and Creedmoor shooters green with envy but aside from case neck lengthening reduction are there any other pluses?
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Re: .243 pros and cons, What can it do and what can’t it do?

Post by duncan61 » 17 Jan 2019, 7:02 am

I don't have my reg6 license with me however I will screen shot it next time I am in the office.This reg applies to the humane destruction of Kangaroos too be taken for sale.On private property there is no code for drop and rot.I personally head shoot cos I can and they fall on the spot and you don't spend half the night looking for them as the farms down here don't like finding dead Roos in the middle of the paddock when they mow The bones break tractor windows and are dangerous if Faedy is out in a remote station no one cares.The advantage of shooting private property.No one else should be there
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Re: .243 pros and cons, What can it do and what can’t it do?

Post by Daddybang » 17 Jan 2019, 7:14 am

duncan61 wrote:I don't have my reg6 license with me however I will screen shot it next time I am in the office.This reg applies to the humane destruction of Kangaroos too be taken for sale.On private property there is no code for drop and rot.I personally head shoot cos I can and they fall on the spot and you don't spend half the night looking for them as the farms down here don't like finding dead Roos in the middle of the paddock when they mow The bones break tractor windows and are dangerous if Faedy is out in a remote station no one cares.The advantage of shooting private property.No one else should be there


So all the threafs on here that have the code linked are wrong??
As for "shooting on private land Noone cares" that may be so but discussing it on a public forum is just another example of you not getting it Duncan. Encouraging new shooters to breach the code and legislation to make yaself look like a big man is just a dumbass thing to do. :thumbsdown:
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Re: .243 pros and cons, What can it do and what can’t it do?

Post by straightshooter » 17 Jan 2019, 7:29 am

Not picking on anybody in particular.
All calibers, even the sexiest most fashionable ones fired out of the coolest rifles, are subject to the laws of physics.
So I wonder for these 300m to 400m hunting shots what rituals are required such as setting up your rest, range estimating, wind estimating and adjustment of sights or estimating how much to aim off and how often they can all be satisfactorily completed before your 'target' moves on.
When you consider the legal instant kill target area of a Kangaroo, which is smaller than the palm of your hand, then a practical limit of 200m is very sensible for one shot kills. Even 200 meters would be a challenge for many shooters.
There is a long in the tooth guru gun writer who used to dazzle other writers and invitees with his fantastic ability to down game on his property at various seemingly random ranges. Little did they realise that all those ranges were marked out with indicators familiar to him and practiced on regularly.
"Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about."
"There is no expedient to which a man will not resort to avoid the real labor of thinking." Sir Joshua Reynolds
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Re: .243 pros and cons, What can it do and what can’t it do?

Post by bigpete » 17 Jan 2019, 7:42 am

Daddybang wrote:
duncan61 wrote:I don't have my reg6 license with me however I will screen shot it next time I am in the office.This reg applies to the humane destruction of Kangaroos too be taken for sale.On private property there is no code for drop and rot.I personally head shoot cos I can and they fall on the spot and you don't spend half the night looking for them as the farms down here don't like finding dead Roos in the middle of the paddock when they mow The bones break tractor windows and are dangerous if Faedy is out in a remote station no one cares.The advantage of shooting private property.No one else should be there


So all the threafs on here that have the code linked are wrong??
As for "shooting on private land Noone cares" that may be so but discussing it on a public forum is just another example of you not getting it Duncan. Encouraging new shooters to breach the code and legislation to make yaself look like a big man is just a dumbass thing to do. :thumbsdown:


Precisely
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