Re-Barrel Advice

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Re-Barrel Advice

Post by Baldrick314 » 23 Apr 2015, 3:19 pm

My 22-250 is on its way to being shot out, still got some life in the barrel but groups are starting to open up noticeably. I'm in the position to buy a barrel blank at a cheap price ($100). I'm after some advice about calibre selection.

I'm currently tossing up between re-barrelling back to 22-250 or going to a 22-250 Ackley Improved. The reason being that I have around 400 brass and a heap of 22 projectiles.

I've heard the Ackley Improved can have feeding troubles though, any truth to that? The rifle will mostly be used for small game around fox size at relatively close ranges so the velocity gain from the AI chambering is negligible I was just considering it for something new.

I'd also consider going to another calibre that I could neck up my brass to if that is feasible. Any suggestions or advice is appreciated.
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Re: Re-Barrel Advice

Post by 1290 » 23 Apr 2015, 5:38 pm

if you're set up for the '250 and the range is reasonable then theres not muchof an advantage going to the improved, fire forming etc.... though the improved will supposedly increase brass life and will reduce bolt thrust (easier on the action...

But if you're swapping barrel then with the standard bolt face the choices of calibre and chambering are near limitless......you're topping out at 30/8mm, maybe a big boomer is in order unless you want to stay 22cal or maybe 6 / 6.5mm....
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Re: Re-Barrel Advice

Post by Gwion » 23 Apr 2015, 11:07 pm

No advice but one question.

Fox sized critters at relatively close range; how much gun do you need and would you prefer the next shot to load quicker?

Maybe just go the same again. Still, that range, that sort of target; there are cheaper rounds to shoot.
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Re: Re-Barrel Advice

Post by Baldrick314 » 24 Apr 2015, 7:06 am

1290 wrote:if you're set up for the '250 and the range is reasonable then theres not muchof an advantage going to the improved, fire forming etc.... though the improved will supposedly increase brass life and will reduce bolt thrust (easier on the action...

But if you're swapping barrel then with the standard bolt face the choices of calibre and chambering are near limitless......you're topping out at 30/8mm, maybe a big boomer is in order unless you want to stay 22cal or maybe 6 / 6.5mm....


Yeah I'm leaning towards just staying with the 250. It fills the gap between 22lr and 308. Thanks for the advice
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Re: Re-Barrel Advice

Post by Baldrick314 » 24 Apr 2015, 7:11 am

Gwion wrote:No advice but one question.

Fox sized critters at relatively close range; how much gun do you need and would you prefer the next shot to load quicker?

Maybe just go the same again. Still, that range, that sort of target; there are cheaper rounds to shoot.


I should have elaborated on my use a little more. I've used the 250 for anything too big for 22lr and too small for 308 which has included foxes at medium ranges (150-200m) through wild dogs and small pigs.

No doubt there would be cheaper rounds but since I'm already set up for the 250 and it packs enough punch within the ranges I'll be using it there isn't a heap of senses swapping to a calibre I'd need all new brass/ dies/ projectiles for.

The more I think about it I'm leaning toward going 250 again. Thanks for your input :)
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Re: Re-Barrel Advice

Post by deye243 » 24 Apr 2015, 8:58 pm

AFAIC an improved chamber in a high intensity case is a waste of a good barrel unless you have a spare barrel and the know how to swap over to fire form you brass

this is what i wiil be doing for a 260AI or 6.5x55AI .
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Re: Re-Barrel Advice

Post by Varmtr » 25 Apr 2015, 8:36 am

The 250AI can have issues with feeding each rifle is different mostly due to the body taper is taken out and the shoulder angle is steepened up. The benefits are a bit more fps over the standard but you get better brass life. This is due to the steep shoulder angle reducing brass flow.
You will need to get new set of dies for the AI and recommend a neck die also even for the standard 22-250 benefits just from neck sizing.
On fox size game the standard 22-250 is dynamite easly out 400 + yards.
What I would be doing is looking at the twist rate of the barrel they are usually around 1:14 good for up to depending brand and type of bullet around the 55grn's. I would be looking at a 1:12 or even a 1:10 for heavier better BC bullets to be used over long distance.
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Re: Re-Barrel Advice

Post by Baldrick314 » 25 Apr 2015, 9:41 am

Varmtr wrote:The 250AI can have issues with feeding each rifle is different mostly due to the body taper is taken out and the shoulder angle is steepened up. The benefits are a bit more fps over the standard but you get better brass life. This is due to the steep shoulder angle reducing brass flow.
You will need to get new set of dies for the AI and recommend a neck die also even for the standard 22-250 benefits just from neck sizing.
On fox size game the standard 22-250 is dynamite easly out 400 + yards.
What I would be doing is looking at the twist rate of the barrel they are usually around 1:14 good for up to depending brand and type of bullet around the 55grn's. I would be looking at a 1:12 or even a 1:10 for heavier better BC bullets to be used over long distance.


Thanks mate. I was going to ask about recommended twist rate. I currently neck size my 250 brass. In your experience/ opinion is the AI much harder on barrels than a standard 250? I know there's no free lunch when it comes to higher velocity but would you be looking at a new barrel much quicker than a standard 250?
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Re: Re-Barrel Advice

Post by Varmtr » 25 Apr 2015, 9:28 pm

Twist rate depends what you are planning to run eg the Nosler lead free ballistic tip 22 cal 40gr, Nosler recommends a 1:12 twist. Compared to their standard 40gr lead core ballistic tip a 1:14 will do the job even the 55gr. The sort off rule of thumb is the heavier the bullet in given cal the faster the twist required due the bullet gets longer.
But the Nosler lead free BT has to be longer to get the enough alloy in the core to get the weight.
I have seen 223's in F class running 1:8 or 1:7 due to running very high BC Berger bullets around the 80+ grn's

The 250AI if loaded to its potential compared the standard 250 yes it would be a bit harder on the throat of the barrel. Barrel life is a subject of opinions depends on a number of factors. How hot the load is you are running. How often you clean between shots. The barrel its self S/S or CroMo. It just goes on.
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Re: Re-Barrel Advice

Post by ebr love » 26 Apr 2015, 9:45 pm

Interesting.... Never realised the Nosler Lead Free had a "Fragmenting Copper Core". Assumed it was just solid like the Barnes.
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Re: Re-Barrel Advice

Post by Berper » 27 Apr 2015, 2:54 pm

The picture makes it looks like they fill it with their offcuts :?
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Re: Re-Barrel Advice

Post by Harper » 29 Apr 2015, 2:06 pm

The greens should have no complaints then as they're recycling :lol:
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Re: Re-Barrel Advice

Post by Varmtr » 29 Apr 2015, 11:09 pm

I run the 36gr Barnes Varmint Grenades in my 22K-Hornet with 13.2gr's of Lil-Gun these are very explosive. I did a little experiment with the 36gr's Barnes VG in my 22-250 chrono'd at just over 4200fps. The accuracy was pretty good around the 0.75MOA but at 4200fps you might as well strap a stick of dynamite to rabbits and foxes heads taken clean off.
All in all Baldrick the standard 22-250 will do anything the AI will do. Yes the fps are a bit more with the AI and brass life maybe a bit better ( depending of a few factors ), but just stick to the standard 22-250. Brass wise Lapua and Nosler make good 22-250 brass.
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Re: Re-Barrel Advice

Post by Hinky » 05 May 2015, 10:50 am

Varmtr wrote:All in all Baldrick the standard 22-250 will do anything the AI will do. Yes the fps are a bit more with the AI and brass life maybe a bit better ( depending of a few factors ), but just stick to the standard 22-250.


I've never thought one would be worth the effort personally.

They have a bit more velocity, but so what? For the time, effort and expense of getting the chamber done and forming the brass you don't really get anything more other than a higher velocity number on a piece of paper.

IMHO.
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Re: Re-Barrel Advice

Post by huccl » 13 May 2015, 11:46 am

I just couldn't stand having to form the brass and waste all those shots.
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Re: Re-Barrel Advice

Post by newsteadvic » 13 May 2015, 2:03 pm

Baldrick314 wrote: I'm in the position to buy a barrel blank at a cheap price ($100).

Great price. Do they have other calibres?
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Re: Re-Barrel Advice

Post by Varmtr » 13 May 2015, 3:56 pm

$100 for a new barrel mmm.
What profile, what make, twist, does it need chambering, s/s or cromo, length
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Re: Re-Barrel Advice

Post by Baldrick314 » 13 May 2015, 4:00 pm

newsteadvic wrote:Great price. Do they have other calibres?


Unfortunately mate I contacted the bloke and he's unwilling to sell so I may have spoken too soon. The guy who has them is an old bloke who I've bought a couple blanks off in the past.

Apparently someone has been in his ear and convinced him he could get in trouble for selling the blanks even though they're not chambered or threaded. I'm holding out hope that he'll see the light but doesn't look like it :(
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Re: Re-Barrel Advice

Post by Rippah » 14 May 2015, 2:11 pm

Baldrick314 wrote:Apparently someone has been in his ear and convinced him he could get in trouble for selling the blanks even though they're not chambered or threaded. I'm holding out hope that he'll see the light but doesn't look like it :(


I wonder... technically, is it a barrel before it has a chamber cut?

If it can't chamber and/or fire a round common sense would tell you it shouldn't/isn't defined as a barrel legally.

It's just a steel pipe until there is a chamber IMO.

P.S. I did do a search for NSW firearms regs on the question but had no luck.
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Re: Re-Barrel Advice

Post by Baldrick314 » 14 May 2015, 2:23 pm

I've always been told it's not a barrel until it's threaded and cambered
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Re: Re-Barrel Advice

Post by Baldrick314 » 14 May 2015, 2:25 pm

Varmtr wrote:$100 for a new barrel mmm.
What profile, what make, twist, does it need chambering, s/s or cromo, length


The last one I bought off him was a 30 cal stainless fluted about 30 inch long. Not chambered. I hadn't got as far as asking about twist rate as it was going to be something I researched after deciding which cal to go with
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Re: Re-Barrel Advice

Post by 1290 » 14 May 2015, 2:46 pm

Baldrick314 wrote:I've always been told it's not a barrel until it's threaded and cambered



yeah right, try telling that to your registrar..... you guys even need to register rifled tubes of steel alloy....
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Re: Re-Barrel Advice

Post by Bourt » 18 May 2015, 11:07 am

Geez every Bunnings store in Victoria must have hundreds of "unregistered firearms" on the shelf in it's piping section :problem:
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