Resurrecting an Oldie

Improving and repairing firearms. Rifle bedding, barrel work, stock replacement and other ways to improve your firearms.

Re: Resurrecting and Oldie

Post by marksman » 07 Aug 2018, 3:02 pm

your doing a great job homer
:drinks:
I love it :thumbsup:
marksman
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Re: Resurrecting and Oldie

Post by Homer » 07 Aug 2018, 3:44 pm

G'Day Fella's,

Thank You to those for your kind and other comments.

Last time I posted, I think I had finished with the inletting and I was looking to bed the action to the stock.
There is a lot in the ststement "To Bed The Action" but most people can't work out what this means.
Basically, I assume this statement refers to the action being at rest in the stock. Just like us, once we lay down in bed.
If there was a brick under your matress, you probably wouldn't sleep well and perform to your best, the next day.
Same with an actioin in it's "Bed"/inletting.
So what we are trying to achieve here, is to place the action in the correct place in the stock, so that it has no stresses being applied to it (no Bricks under it), distorting the action, as it lays there, being held in place by the action screws.
There are a few different ways to achieve this and also, different action types, require different bedding methods.
You can go Google that info up, as a little bit of home work........... if your interested.

You need to prepare both the action and stock, prior to mixng the bedding compound (Epoxy Resin).
This generally means having contingency plans in place, in anticipation of overflowing epoxy resin onto the outer stock finish.
I generally use masking tape on the stock and plastic bedding tape, on the action etc.
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I've used masking tape here, so you can better see it's placement on the action.
The reason tape is used, is to create a very slight amount of clearance, between particular action surfaces and the epoxy bedding and or inletting.
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After this has been completed, I then apply two coats of Release Agent, to the bottom and sides of the action surfaces, and allow this to dry (both times), before going any further.

So you then mix up the two parts of the bedding material, as per the manufactures directions, in both the correct proportions, and slighly more quantity than actually required for the job. Better to have To Much ............ than To Little................. D'oh!
At this time, you would also add any additional components (atomised metal or coloured dye) if required, to the epoxy mix (again, as per the directions.
You then apply the mixed bedding material, into the required locations, in the stock and then do what you have worked out works first time regarding this part of the process.
As previously mentioned, I would also apply some bedding material, the the outside of the action screw pillars, and their holes in the stock at this same time.
I then place the stock etc, in a location where it won't get bumped for a few hours.........................

D'oh!
Homer
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Re: Resurrecting and Oldie

Post by Homer » 09 Aug 2018, 10:55 am

G'Day Fella's,

Well the moment of thruth arrived, and pretty well all appears to be as it should be.
As you will see in a moment, there was a small issue (?) with the bedding material/compound, at the receiver/action ring end of this job.
But apart from this, all the rest of it seems to have come together, as I expected.

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As you can see better here (the dull area on the flat area, behind the recoil lug recess), some of the bedding compound adhered to the bottom of the action, when I pulled the two parts apart. I reckon this was due to the compound, requiring more time to cure (it's Winter), before dissassembly.......... D'oh!
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So I may need to do a second "Touch Up" bedding job, on this area?

Here you can see the tang area, at the rear of the action. All looks good to me.
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Here is the front screw area, under the floor plate. All looks good to me.
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Here is the rear screw/tang area, behind the trigger guard. All looks good to me.
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As you can see, the stock/screw pillars, look to be in the correct place and ready to do their job.

A little bit a carefull chisel work is always required, after an epoxy bedding job, just to fine tune and clean things up.

Now that this has been completed, it's time to start on the hand rubbed, exterior finish of the stock itself.

D'oh!
Homer
Last edited by Homer on 10 Aug 2018, 6:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Resurrecting and Oldie

Post by Stoney » 09 Aug 2018, 5:34 pm

Absolutely loving this. Please keep the updates coming Homer.
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Re: Resurrecting an Oldie

Post by Homer » 10 Aug 2018, 10:25 am

Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm Pop Corn!

LOL!
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Re: Resurrecting an Oldie

Post by Homer » 10 Aug 2018, 11:28 am

G'Day Fella's,

Here are a couple of links that I found helpful, regarding How To apply Birchwood-Casey's Tru Oil stock finish;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ocS4F6ShNI
and
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PKMzNfd-mXQ

Further to the second video, I don't like using wood stains or wood fillers. If the stock wood already has any contrasting colour, these may hide this.
Also, as was pointed out in the second video, the dust created from sanding, will obviously be the same colour as the stock. So that is the perfect wood filler for the stock, as it is already the correct colour.
I also asked for advice from a local Stock Maker, Russell LM, about applying Tru Oil.
Russell let me know how and why he does it the way he does, and this made sense but was only a slight variation, on the methods in the two above video's.

As the stock arrived from Hatchers, it was already very smooth, with only a few area's that still had some slight machine tool marks (around the cheek piece, in the concave section, between it and it's shadow line), on the external surface.
So I got to it with some 400 grade Wet and Dry (W&D) abrasive paper, and removed these tool marks and then sanded the rest of the stock.
I used this W&D paper, wrapped around a 1/2" wooden dowl, and a square cork sanding block.

Once this was done, I didn't remove the sanding dust from the stock, as it was filling the pours in the stock surface.
I then diluted a tea spoon's worth of Tru Oil, with an equal amount of Mineral Turpentine (Turps), and painted this on both the outside and internal inletting of the stock.
24 hours later, I lightly sand all the external surfaces of the stock, with 000 grade Steel Wool.
I then blow all the wood/Tru Oil and steel wool dust off the stock with compressed air.
I then leave the stock to sit in the sun for 15 minutes ish, on both sides (1/2 an hour......ish).
This helps warm up the stock, and this apparently helps it to absorb the next coat of Tru Oil.

I then apply the second/next coat of Tru Oil.
I did this as per the second video, by applying just one drop of Tru Oil at a time, to in this instance, a piece of 600 grade W&D paper (wrapped around the cork sanding block), and then used this to sand and apply the Tru Oil into one area of the stock surface at a time (forend Left side, forend Bottom, forend Right side...... you get the picture..... I hope?).
What you are doing, is both sanding and applying the Tru Oil, to the outside of the stock surface.
Any dust that is created by doing this, is instantly mixed with the Tru Oil, and this is then rubbed into the stock wood.
As you do this, you can feel the Tru Oil reducing and instead of being easy to apply, it starts to become slightly difficult or stiff to move the sanding block around.
So I then check to make sure I have covered that area (lets say, forend Right side....), before I place one more drop of Tru Oil on the W&D and move onto the next area.

Like the bloke in the first video suggests, don't allow a build up of Tru Oil in tight corners, like around the cheek piece, shadow line.
If you don't, you will end up with a build up of oil in these areas and it will end up a big and darker radiused surface.
When this coat has been applied all over, I get a tooth brush (use your Missus one), dip it in turps and the shake off the excess.
I then run the brush part of it around the shadow line, to remove the excess build up of oil, from this area.

Once this process is completed, I then hang the stock in the sun and rotate it, so all surfaces get some sun on it (15 minutes....... ish each side).
I then hang the stock up inside somewhere out of the way, and let the Tru Oil cure.
At the same time, the original piece of W&D, is progressively becoming smoother/less abrasive as well, and this helps add the the finer finish, being applied to the stock. After every application of Tru Oil, I use a tooth brush and a shallow tub of Turps, to remove the Tru Oil from the W&D paper.

24 hours later, I again lightly sand the exterior surface of the stock with steel wool, untill all surfaces are again a dull or matt finish.
I then blow all the wood and steel wool dust off the stock with compressed air and start again with the Tru Oil and sanding block.
What we are trying to do here, is removing any high spots and any blemishes from the last coat of Tru Oil, and at the same time, giving the next coat of Tru Oil somthing to adhere to.

I have now applied 7 coats of Tru Oil with this method.

Here is an image of the RH side of the stock (it is rather plain but still, nice hard and dense, heart wood walnut).
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And the LH side, which has some amount of contrasting colour to it.
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I'm getting tired of doing this but at the same time, it is some what therapeutic.

Avagreatweekendeh!
Homer
Last edited by Homer on 10 Aug 2018, 7:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Resurrecting an Oldie

Post by Wm.Traynor » 10 Aug 2018, 1:18 pm

It's beautiful :) :thumbsup:
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Re: Resurrecting an Oldie

Post by Daddybang » 10 Aug 2018, 5:30 pm

Lovin this thread!!
Seeing the different steps and the side info (such as the use of the sanded wood for color matching) is fantastic :thumbsup:
Can't wait to see final result.. Thanks heaps for posting Homer!! :drinks: :drinks:
We are The paint where there ain't supposed to be paint
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Re: Resurrecting an Oldie

Post by bigrich » 10 Aug 2018, 5:38 pm

good stuff homer :thumbsup: :drinks: :thumbsup:
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Re: Resurrecting an Oldie

Post by Homer » 10 Aug 2018, 6:11 pm

G'Day Fella's,

Thanks for your kind comments and I hope this is of some use, to you blokes.

Here are a couple of images of Before and After, the application of Tru Oil, to this same stock.

Here are a couple of the Before images. This is after the stock has been rubbed back with steel wool.
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Here I hope you can see, where I have completely rubbed thru the last applied coat of Tru Oil, and down to the previously applied coat..... D'oh!
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And here are some images of the stock, 24 hours ....... ish, after the last coat of Tru Oil was applied.
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Please note the lack of Tru Oil build up along the shadow line of the cheek piece.
Also whilst they aren't as sharp/square as they originally were, please note the still reasonable sharp/square edges, of both the cheek piece and it's shadow line.
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Avagreatweekendeh!
Homer
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Re: Resurrecting an Oldie

Post by marksman » 11 Aug 2018, 8:56 pm

thanks for posting homer :drinks:
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Re: Resurrecting an Oldie

Post by Homer » 16 Aug 2018, 11:19 am

G'Day Fella's,

Been a bit side tracked with other things, so haven't done much on this of late.

Thru lack of experience with this and now, from what I have seen so far, it looks like the way I'm applying Tru Oil, is the way to go.
I'm not sure if I have already gone to far but before I get any further into the stock finishing, I thought I need to attach a forend tip, grip cap and a recoil pad.
The recoil pad is on the way, and luckily, I have a stash figured Australian, English Walnut pieces, that will do for the forend and grip cap.
I done a favour for an Australian stock wood supplier (GC in Tassie), and he was kind enough to send me a box of off cuts, for my various "Projects"...........

Here's a few images of the pieces for this job, and a simple dowl drilling jig, I thought up for the task.
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and the same wood in the sun, wet with Metho, to show off the grain and colour better.
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Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm Walnuts!

D'oh!
Homer
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Re: Resurrecting an Oldie

Post by marksman » 16 Aug 2018, 1:07 pm

very nice Homer :drinks:
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Re: Resurrecting an Oldie

Post by Homer » 19 Aug 2018, 9:28 am

G'Day Fella's,

I managed to attach the forend tip and grip cap but first, I had to shorten the forend it self.
Please note the masking tape. This helps stop the wood from chipping, around the outside edge.
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I used a saw, to trim down the forend tip, to be slightly bigger than required
I then used the drill jig I made, to drill the dowl holes, in both the forend and the new tip.
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With this completed, I then filed both the mating faces, between the end of the forend and the new tip, to be both square and flat.

Once that was completed, I then glued (epoxy) the two dowls into the forend only.
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The next day, I mixed up some more epoxy, and placed this in the forend tip holes, and on the flat face, where the two peices of wood come together/join, and pressed them together, under pressure.
The next day I milled out the barrel channel to just short of the tip and then shaped the forend tip, to it's desired external shape.
I then applied a coat of Tru Oil to it.
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D'oh!
Homer
Last edited by Homer on 19 Aug 2018, 9:47 am, edited 1 time in total.
Homer
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Re: Resurrecting an Oldie

Post by Homer » 19 Aug 2018, 9:44 am

Here's a couple more images, of the forend tip, in it's final shape, again after a coat of Tru Oil.

Left side.
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Right side.
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and the bottom........... please note the variation in colour, from both sides and the bottom.
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I'm still working on the grip cap, and I'll post some images, once there's something worth seeing

Next thing up, I prepare, and then fit the recoil pad.........

D'oh!
Homer
Last edited by Homer on 19 Aug 2018, 10:40 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Resurrecting an Oldie

Post by Stix » 19 Aug 2018, 10:16 am

You'll be nice'n proud of her when all done :clap:

Can you show a pic of the entire stock as well :unknown:
The man who knows everything, doesnt really know everything...he's just stopped learning...
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Re: Resurrecting an Oldie

Post by Wm.Traynor » 19 Aug 2018, 11:36 am

It's neat :D :thumbsup:
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Re: Resurrecting an Oldie

Post by Homer » 19 Aug 2018, 6:48 pm

G'Day Fella's

Thanks for the kind comments, Stix and Wm.Traynor.

Yes Stix, once this part of the stock work is completed, I'll post a few images of the entire stock.
I'm looking forward to that part of it, myself.

D'oh!
Homer
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