by Wapiti » 09 Oct 2026, 7:02 am
Have a go with the steel wool/mop idea with some abrasive paste or Autosol.
Go easy.
Unfortunately if you have rust in small pits, as is always generally the case, that may quite likely not be removed completely from these little pits however.
Problem with this is - rust keeps on going in that instance, unless it's completely removed and the moisture within powering it is all removed and replaced with an oil to keep the water/oxgen from re-entering that rust and continuing it.
I'm wondering about the rust remover idea. It's a good one to neutralise the rust that will be in the little pits, but do some research and make sure it does not remove steel - only it's oxides which rust is.
All the guys above make good points.
On the case rotated in the chamber with abrasive - Dye is spot on, take care. If you push the shoulder forward by removing the rust and it physically changes dimension, oh well, that's life.
Use your sizing die and make up for that by re-sizing cases JUST enough to rechamber... to fit whatever new chamber dimensions that result from your rust removal. If rust pits are not in the bore, there should be no accuracy issues.
Of course if this doesn't sit well with you, a re-chamber is pretty simple, although it will necessitate rethreading the barrel to set it back as well which takes some time to set up right using the original threads. Which costs.
"The only way to avoid criticism is to do nothing, say nothing, and be nothing."
Aristotle.
Regards G,
AKA Dr. Doolittle