Your rifle cleaning rod technique

[ghunther]

Hi guys,

I know how/when/why to clean your barrel is a never ending argument, I'd like to know how you guys use your cleaning rod for passing a brush or patch through the barrel.

I ask because I was at my local store this week and one of the staff had a rifle on the bench which he was cleaning. Instead of long smooth strokes with the cleaning rod, he was quickly pushing the rod back and forth and not coming out the muzzle end with the bronze brush.

It seemed like he was trying to scrub out a tough bit of fouling or something, like you know when you wash a dish you do the whole thing lightly and there is one stubborn bit, you scrub it heaps. Like that, but with a brush.

There was no way he was evenly cleaning the throat and the muzzle the same as the middle of the barrel.

Thoughts?

[Berper]

I was told (and it made sense so I continued doing it) to only pass something through the barrel in the direction the bullet travels.

I push the brush through then remove it and return the rod.

Rinse/repeat for the various steps.

[Bourt]

I use my rods in both direction, but I make sure I fully clear the muzzle and throat before reversing the direction of the brush.

[Warrigul]

Bourt does it the way most people (me included) think is correct.

If you are able to reverse the rod in the middle of the barrel then the brush is either the wrong size or it is buggered.

Reversing direction inside the bore breaks off the bristles.

[ghunther]

Bourt does it the way most people (me included) think is correct.

Make sense. I think I'll be switching to your way in future.

Thanks guys.

[Lorgar]

I use my rods in both direction, but I make sure I fully clear the muzzle and throat before reversing the direction of the brush.

Ditto.

I dunno what the guy at your store was trying to do, ghunther, but he was doing it wrong.

As I'm sure you've noticed your cleaning brush is slightly larger than the bore of your barrel so the bristles point backwards as you push it through the barrel.

If you reverse direction mid stroke you're forcing the bristles into the rifling and bending/breaking them to force them the other way. You'll definitely bugger you're brush, and sooner or later your rifling.

IMO there is no problem with using the rod in both direction as long as the brush clears the muzzle and throat at the end of the stroke so that the bristles return to upright before gently reversing as you feed it back into the barrel for the return stroke. Not wrenching them around mid-barrel.

My 2c.

[Chronos]

I only use nylon proof positive bore brushes made by boretech, with these its been recommended to me that you scrub back and forth otherwise the bristles won't get into all the nooks and crannies.

Always use a bore guide and try not to exit and enter the crown more times than necessary, its the rod rubbing carbon against the muzzle that does the damage, not the brush.

Also you should wipe the rod clean to remove the carbon from the rod.

Chronos

[Warrigul]

This is what I do for centerfires:

Whilst barrel is still warm works best:

Using a one piece cleaning rod with a Jag, wrap piece of 4 x 2 to be a firm fit in barrel(if it is too loose the rod won't turn, you want the cloth to engane the lands of the rifling but be warned if it is too tight and you need to hammer it through you run the risk of a stuck rod.
Dip the front 1" in Hoppes #9 or any bore solvent you like
Guide rod in from breech end using fingers to centralise in bore- go straight through until entire patch protrudes. The rod should rotate with the rifling as you go in.
Discard patch before withdrawing rod
When withdrawing rod guide with fingers and a piece of cloth wiping residue from rod whilst extracting.

With a firmly wrapped dry patch run the rod through the bore again and discard before withdrawing.

This should have gotten rid of the initial bulk of the rubbish, you don't want carbon scrubbed up and down your barrel by the bronze brush.

I now soak a bronze brush in bore solvent and go fully through and back five times in each direction making sure the brush clears the bore fully each time. You can just use oil on the brush if you like(especially if trying to clean up a rusty old .303 or the like) but NEVER run a dry brush in a bore.

I now push a clean patch through and discard before with drawing.

I then soak a patch in metho and go back and forth five times then PATCH UNTIL DRY. I have been using metho only for the last two years but it has reduced the amount of patches to clean the bore dramatically.

If I am going to use the rifle within a week I soak a patch in INOX oil so the bore is wet then store muzzle down.

For long term storage I use Sweets oil, the bottle heated under my armpit until the lanolin is soft and mixes with the oil.

Before I use any rifle that has been oiled I always pass two patches through otherwise oil or grease can over pressurise a bore.

This is only to get rid of powder fouling NOT copper, that is another story.

I am no expert but this is how I was taught to do it, there are many different ways and heaps of different products that can be used. The frequency of cleaning is up to the individual.

[on_one_wheel]

Bourt does it the way most people (me included) think is correct.

If you are able to reverse the rod in the middle of the barrel then the brush is either the wrong size or it is buggered.

Reversing direction inside the bore breaks off the bristles.

Agreed with all above.... it would break off the bristles or would just make it real messy with bent bristles, perhaps he was using a mop and just working on a part of the barrel, like polishing out a blemish ?

[Warrigul]

Agreed with all above.... it would break off the bristles or would just make it real messy with bent bristles, perhaps he was using a mop and just working on a part of the barrel, like polishing out a blemish ?

Yep, I have used a mop and autosol to clean up a few rusty bores in the past but it is not for the faint hearted.

[ghunther]

...perhaps he was using a mop and just working on a part of the barrel, like polishing out a blemish ?

I didn't see the whole process start to finish so don't know what he was trying to do, but for the 30 seconds I was watching him it was with a bronze brush. (I saw him take it out)

Who knows...

Thanks for all the info guys.

It's good to get follow up on why you guys do things the way you do. The most you can ever get out of the guys at the shop is.

"this is good", "don't do this". Nothing to back up their comments...

[reddog]

This is off Stuart and Annie Elliotts site BRT Shooters Supplies

How To Clean A Barrel
CLEANING PROCEDURES & BARREL FOULING - FOR MOST BOLT ACTION RIFLES
GENERAL CAUSES OF BARREL FOULING

Powder & primer fouling (carbon fouling)
Bullets (copper or lead)
Temperature, humidity and high pressure loads increase the fouling
Some types of powders and bullets foul worse than others
Barrel wear or interior surface finish of the barrel has an impact
Placeholder Image
SELECTION OF EQUIPMENT
Quality cleaning rods
Jags and brushes
Solvents and pastes
Quality bore guide
Action chamber tool
Cleaning rack or cradle to support the rifle
Quality cloth patches
Placeholder Image
CLEANING AGENTS
Bore Solvents:
Chemical cleaning involves carbon solvents, copper solvents and lead solvents
Bore Pastes:
Mechanical cleaning action uses mild abrasive pastes to rub the fouling away
CLEANING PROCEDURE

As always, MAKE SURE YOUR RIFLE IS UNLOADED.
Cover scope lenses and rear of stock. The use of a bore guide is recommended to stop solvents leaking into the action and trigger area.
NB. Remove the bore guide when using bore pastes though.

Immediately after shooting apply a patch to the jag on the cleaning rod and wet with gun oil. Make this first patch not too tight by trimming or using a smaller patch for this purpose.
Push it straight through the bore. By using an oil for this first patch it’s lubricity will make the job easier otherwise the first patch is often tight and grippy.
Repeat this 2 more times but use solvent applied to the patches. (eg Pro-Shot Copper solvent).
Now remove the jag and fit a good quality bronze brush to the cleaning rod. Wet with the same solvent and pass the rod back and forwards, fully out and fully back, down barrel 5 times (10 passes).
This is to agitate the powder fouling. Now change the brush on the rod back to the jag and
using clean dry patches push 3 or 4 patches out until they come out clean or at least the black colour has lessoned.

Now it’s time to attack any copper fouling. This is first done by soaking the bore with Bore Solvent to let the chemical action work on any copper fouling still inside. This will also work on any powder fouling which happens to be left.
So, apply bore solvent to a loose, wet patch or to a nylon brush and anoint the bore.
Leave in the bore for 10 minutes to soak.
Then push a clean patch through the bore and observe the colour after it comes out the muzzle. If it shows blue/green colour it is evidence of copper. Repeat the process as required.
If the colour is OK you are nearly ready to shoot again. Just dry patch it out and dry out the chamber. A cotton mop is recommended for this purpose. a 410 shotgun mop is ideal. Fit it to a special rod or even to the cleaning rod itself. If the gun is to be stored then apply a good quality oil. We recommend Ballistol oil. It is really good.

Review if more thorough cleaning is needed eg the use of Sweets which is a specialist Copper solvent or JB bore paste which is excellent for removing both powder and copper fouling.
*Sweets – use a loose patch or nylon brush and wet. Pass through bore 2 or 3 times and leave to stand for 15 minutes. Patch out with standard size patch till no colour shows. Blue/green indicates copper.
*JB or Iosso pastes – use a tight fitting patch smeared all over with a coating of the paste. Remove bore guide first. Push tight patch into barrel working backwards and forward on the throat area. The first 6” to 8” till smooth then work further down the barrel to muzzle end using a backwards and forwards action till barrel is smooth. Finally push out. Wash out residue with wet or dry patches pushing straight through (approx 4 or 5patches). Can be followed with JB Bore Brite for a finer polish. Clean the chamber as usual and wipe the muzzle.

NB.
MOST IMPORTANT. Do not leave any solvent or oil in the chamber as, when a cartridge is fired the cases will not grip the chamber walls and this will increase bolt back thrust significantly. Clean up the action area.
Clean bronze brushes in white spirits or kerosene before packing away.
Make sure your brushes are a tight fit in barrel. If not, they may need replacing.
Be sure jags and brushes are not bent when attached to cleaning rods as this may cause uneven wear in barrel.
Clean bolt lugs and apply new lube often to thrust surfaces.
IDENTIFYING UNUSUAL SIGNS OF BARREL FOULING

Accuracy goes off. Rifle not grouping.
Pressure signs (in primers or tight bolt)
Cleaning becomes difficult.
Roughness in bore (often powder fouling)
Copper fouling can be seen when looking through the muzzle end in bright sunlight or with a bore scope. Usually evident in front of throat area.
Worn barrels will foul more easily. Clean more frequently and be more aggressive in cleaning regime.
LIST OF SOME SOLVENTS BORE PASTES (powder & copper)
Pro Shot Copper Solvent JB Bore paste (original)
Pro Shot One Step JB Bore Brite
Ballistol oil Iosso Bore Paste
Kroil " Rem Clean (not recommended)
Penetrene powder/copper
Hoppes "
Butches’ Bore Shine "
Shooters Choice "
Sweets copper
Barnes CR-10 "
Tetra Gun copper solvent "
Top Engine Cleaner carbon
Shooters Choice lead remover

Always leave barrel soaking in light gun oil (Ballistol etc) when not shooting or when stored at home for example.

I have never used a bore paste or anything like that have never had to
But what Warrigul does is pretty close to what I do . If I'm not cleaning the rifle straight away I run an oily patch through the bore and leave
it until I do

[Supporter]

I'm another using the rod both ways, but just making sure I clear the crown and throat with the brush before changing direction.

[headspace]

I'm pretty uncomplicated about the job, and I see no need for bronze brushes, that's the job of solvent.

I'll pass a bristle brush through first, unscrewing the brush before gently pushing the rod back inside the crown. Then I run a dry patch through, again unscrewing the jag before pushing the rod back inside the crown, followed by more solvent and repeat that until the patch comes out clean.

Then run a clean bristle brush through with a light coating of gun oil. The crown of the barrel is probably the most easily damaged, so I never run a brush or jag back. I prefer a one piece rod coated and cut my patches so they are a close fit but needing only reasonably firm pressure.

You don't want the rod to arc up against the rifling. I don't use a bore guide, I prefer to centre the rod with my fingers.

JD

[ghunther]

Thanks for the read reddog.

[Pilch]

I'm pretty uncomplicated about the job

Yer, it's not that big a deal IMHO.

People are too impatient or too OCD about doing it "right" most of the time IMO.

Get the right size brushes, a reputable solvent, do the usual process, rinse and repeat.

My only points would be don't reverse the brush mid stroke, and be gentle the throat crown. Other than that it's not rocket science.

[Blackened]

People are too impatient or too OCD about doing it "right" most of the time IMO.

Some shooters are OCD? No way

[Turkle]

I was told (and it made sense so I continued doing it) to only pass something through the barrel in the direction the bullet travels.

I push the brush through then remove it and return the rod.

Only for the brass brush though right? Not the soft nylon one surely...

[Berper]

Yeah, only the hard brushes.

No concern over soft ones obviously.

[Turkle]

I was gunna say... Now that's OCD if you won't run a nylon brush through your barrel

[Joom]

I was told (and it made sense so I continued doing it) to only pass something through the barrel in the direction the bullet travels.

I push the brush through then remove it and return the rod.

I do the same. Only really because I started cleaning with a jag tip, not a ringed one...

Only down to chance really but it worked so kept on doing...

[headspace]

I don't use Brass brushes at all, just a nylon bristle brush. I've been using Butches Bore Shine lately and it gets the fouling out OK. I'll pass the brush through one way, especially on the first pass, then let it sit for about 10 minutes, then patch it out. I do that until the patches come out clean then lightly oil the bore. Job's done.

As to the first pass of the brush, dragging it back loaded with crud from the barrel is a possible wear factor on the muzzle. One pass with the proper size brush should be enough to distribute the solvent/oil through the lands and grooves.

JD

[SendIt]

I don't use Brass brushes at all, just a nylon bristle brush.

I used brass ones in the past but have also stopped.

Just a few minutes soaking with the copper solvent does the job with the nylon brush.