Sako85 / Tikka t3

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Sako85 / Tikka t3

Post by Cal-ApeR » 21 Mar 2019, 9:57 am

Gents quick question.

Got access to a Sako 85 22-250 barrel. Wondering if can switch with a tikka T3 barrel. Thought the thread might be a little different. Any ideas?
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Re: Sako85 / Tikka t3

Post by Apollo » 21 Mar 2019, 12:22 pm

They are exactly the same. They should also headspace the same, such is the quality control of Sako/Tikka.

I have a Tikka T3 Varmint and a Sako 85 Varmint in .243W. First Barrel is a Blued Tikka T3, Second is a Stainless Tikka T3 and third is a Sako 85 Stainless Fluted. All headspace the same and cases fired in one are the same dimension as the other two. I can swap the barrels as I see fit for what I want to use. They are both built in the same factory.

Biggest problem is getting the factory barrels cracked and removed first time up then it's my own barrel vice and mild tension on the barrel. My Gunsmith uses his special setup in a 100T Press to crack the factory seal.
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Re: Sako85 / Tikka t3

Post by Apollo » 21 Mar 2019, 3:37 pm

BTW.... Whatever you do, take it to a Gunsmith to remove the original barrel and have the replacement/optional one checked for correct headspace.

The factory stamping on the barrel may not lineup exactly where the original one is but that is a minor point. Mine don't, one is slightly lower and half way behind the stock and the other is higher. May not appeal to many especially from a resale point but in my case I am wearing out the spare barrels instead of the original one which if I was ever going to sell then I would put that back on.

Haven't kept an eye on sales but when I saw a Factory Stainless Varmint Barrel going for $200 inc post I grabbed it since it had only fired a few dozen rounds. Inspection with a Bore Scope showed no sign of any use.

My own Tikka .243W Varmint Barrel shoots more accurately on the Sako 85 than it does on the Tikka T3 and the Tikka T3 Action has now had some work done to true it a touch better than it was factory. Sako 85 Action has not been touched, just fully bedded and trigger lightened substantially.
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Re: Sako85 / Tikka t3

Post by SCJ429 » 21 Mar 2019, 6:28 pm

As Apollo said, getting the original barrel off is difficult and you can stuff your action if you are not careful.

A Sako Varmint barrel for $200, you did very well there. Why can't I find deals like that?
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Re: Sako85 / Tikka t3

Post by Cal-ApeR » 21 Mar 2019, 7:56 pm

Very interesting. Ive got a spare tikka 260 barrel to go on my 243 T3 once it's completely shot out. The 250 barrel is going cheap and in good Nick. I would get a Smith to crack the original barrel, they sound quite difficult. Might not swap barrels too often as I don't think I will bother spending the money on go/no go gauges. A Smith might be a safe option for me unless it's really just a matter of unthreading one and putting on another.... Which I doubt is the case.
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Re: Sako85 / Tikka t3

Post by marksman » 21 Mar 2019, 8:33 pm

the gauges are cheap to buy

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Forster-308 ... 4236386034

these are cross compatible with the 308 case family eg 308, 260 and 243
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Re: Sako85 / Tikka t3

Post by Apollo » 21 Mar 2019, 9:04 pm

Cal-ApeR wrote:Very interesting. Ive got a spare tikka 260 barrel to go on my 243 T3 once it's completely shot out. The 250 barrel is going cheap and in good Nick. I would get a Smith to crack the original barrel, they sound quite difficult. Might not swap barrels too often as I don't think I will bother spending the money on go/no go gauges. A Smith might be a safe option for me unless it's really just a matter of unthreading one and putting on another.... Which I doubt is the case.


Once initially done and headspace checked, you don't need a Gunsmith for anything else in the future BUT you do need a Barrel Vice and a Large Shifter/Action Wrench to undo your barrel then swap and re-tension the swapped barrel. You do not need any sort of Gauge.

It's called a Switch Barrel Rifle... of which I have more than a few. Same Action, different Barrels / Calibres. For example I have a Stolle Grizzly II which is mainly a 6.5x47 Lapua but also has a 30BR Barrel and a 6mmBR Barrel which I even swap at a Rifle Range in minutes.
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Re: Sako85 / Tikka t3

Post by Cal-ApeR » 22 Mar 2019, 12:52 pm

Oh you buggers. This is tempting.

So, I get my Smith to switch my original 243 to 260 or 22/250 and then when I feel like swapping I can just use my own vice and action wrench? all I need to do is switch them and tension them up? Do I Still need go/no go gauges? I assume yes. This just seems easier than first thought.
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Re: Sako85 / Tikka t3

Post by Apollo » 22 Mar 2019, 2:22 pm

Cal-ApeR wrote:Oh you buggers. This is tempting.

So, I get my Smith to switch my original 243 to 260 or 22/250 and then when I feel like swapping I can just use my own vice and action wrench? all I need to do is switch them and tension them up? Do I Still need go/no go gauges? I assume yes. This just seems easier than first thought.


My advice, other people may agree or not.

You get your Gunsmith to break the factory barrel which on a Tikka T3 and/or Sako 85 are installed at the factory with somewhat huge tension. If the Gunsmith knows what he is doing and has the right equipment then he will have no problem doing the job and not leave one mark on anything.

Unless it is a huge pressure calibre, of those you mention is not the case, then all you need is a simple Barrel Vice and with these flat sided actions a Large Shifter (with protection in the jaws..ie leather inserts) or a Rear Entry Action Wrench and you do them up until the barrel is in contact with the action and then a mild tap with the palm of your hand or very soft mallet to just nip the two together. Nothing more in the way of tension is required. Removal to swap barrels is just the reverse, make sure the barrel vice is nice and tight (no slip) and give it a tap with your hand and it should then release. No huge tension is required and no huge extensions nor tension wrench needed.

You don't need Go/No Go Gauges as the position is already set. It's not like a Savage or whatever that has a Barrel Nut and needs to be headspaced every time. Just undo, swap and re-tension and you are away and running.

If you have a good experienced Gunsmith he will confirm all this, perhaps if you are allowed to be in attendance then he may just show you the process. Mine has been in the business for well over 50 years if not 60 odd. He is about an hours drive from me and most times for smaller jobs I am there whilst he does the work and explains a lot as he is working, just don't interrupt unless spoken to.

You may be advised to apply a small tiny amount of grease (hi pressure grease the same I use for locking lugs) to the threads on the barrel to help against a seizure down the track. It's not rocket science.

Enjoy having a Switch Barrel Rifle.
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