Restoring Checkering

[Gwion]

From what i've seen, the checkering tools are effectively just tiny files but they come in sets with predetermined widths between lines and also max depth. Only risk i can see with the above suggestion of using a modified single file is that you may inadvertently get varying depths and uneven checks, or, run the risk of deleting a ridge all together by taking a groove too deep.

[MR. WINCHESTER]

From what i've seen, the checkering tools are effectively just tiny files but they come in sets with predetermined widths between lines and also max depth. Only risk i can see with the above suggestion of using a modified single file is that you may inadvertently get varying depths and uneven checks, or, run the risk of deleting a ridge all together by taking a groove too deep.

Ummm ..... yeah.

All very good reasons, for using the proper tools !

( that is: if one wants a 'proper job' )

[Gwion]

Agreed... depends how fussy you are and if you value the resale return of your firearm.

[Chronos]

From what i've seen, the checkering tools are effectively just tiny files but they come in sets with predetermined widths between lines and also max depth. Only risk i can see with the above suggestion of using a modified single file is that you may inadvertently get varying depths and uneven checks, or, run the risk of deleting a ridge all together by taking a groove too deep.

Ummm ..... yeah.

All very good reasons, for using the proper tools !

( that is: if one wants a 'proper job' )

Agreed... depends how fussy you are and if you value the resale return of your firearm.

Of course, would I use a file on an expensive or collectable firearm? hell no, I'd get a pro to do it but as a way to tart up a farm gun or old roughy as part of refinnishing it yes i would, and have

Here's a very rough Tikka LSA55 I bought for just $300 as a donor action for a build.









It had been sanded all over and refinnished years ago by the looks and a bit of stripping and sanding showed how much checkering was left, mostly full of polyeurathane or some such. I was planning on buying a 90deg single row checkering tool to clean out the lines but a mate suggested a needle file or riffler file so i heated a needle file and started one line at a time. it takes ages, as i said the lines were full of varnish but it came out much cleaner and although not perfect it improved the handeling and look of the gun out of sight. still need to fit a new recoil pad and grip cap

Chronos

[Gwion]

Came up well, Chronos.
Wasn't having a go; just pointing out potential issues to the OP so they could make an decision which way to go.

[Chronos]

Came up well, Chronos.
Wasn't having a go; just pointing out potential issues to the OP so they could make an decision which way to go.

Yeah no worries G, just thought I should clarify I was simply trying to tidy up a real roughy not work on a $1500 firearm.

My suggestion was mainly in response to Oldblokes post

I have this issue to. I just want to clean up some old checkering on a 12g SB.
I think I only need a fine cutter and handle. Any ideas, options?

I simply have him one idea, option

Steve

[Oldbloke]

So I have an old sterling single 12g worth bugger all but its ok as a camp gun. It was given to me about 25 yrs ago and I just want to clean it up, fit a recoil pad, oil it and clean up the checkering.
I had a go with a triangular needle file for 10 minutes last week and with care looks like it will do the job. (Slowly) I think Chronos is right, needle files are an option for a basic tidy up. A decent stock, forget it.
So once the recoil pad is fitted, perhaps tomorrow, I will get serious about stripping the epoxy and starting on the checkering.
I have no intention of spending $300 for checkering on a $50 12g.
This project is a test before I do my brmo model 2. All going well.

[wrenchman]

is the bottom pic after you got it cleaned up if so it came out real nice