Takedown cleaning rod section bowed in rifling

[cooker]

I'm officially done with takedown cleaning rods after the last hour

Assembled the rod, patched the loop, pushed the rod down the barrel about 1 foot and jam. Pull back, no give. Seems the patch I cut was too big but however it's happened the rod jammed flexed enough that one of the joins in the rod had caught on a bur in the rifling (it's an old worn rifle).

Unscrewed the remaining rod with the front section still bowed inside the barrel

To get it out I attached it from the other end with a rod and a straightened fishing hook attached to try and use the barb to pull out bits of the jammed cloth. Figured that was better than hitting it back the other way into the rifling.

Too f***ing ages but finally it gave and sliped forward, letting me push the rod out from the action end again with the rest of it. I'm never doing that again...

[KWhorenet]

Is that why I've heard them called a 'pull through' not 'push through' lol I hear you, I'd never try pushing a flexible rod with a patch through either.

[anthillinside]

You need one of these
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6p3FhOupX9g

[KWhorenet]

hahaha no wonder the comments were disabled on that vid

[sbd3927]

You need one of these
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6p3FhOupX9g

roflmao

"I would use a non-venomous snake"
"a hot gun goes faster"

[saucy]

Good old hillbilly's

[SendIt]

One piece rod and a jag tip, that's what you need.

Bugger off the loop.

[Wes]

At least you got it out without damaging anything or losing it to the smith for weeks.

One piece for the win

[Rippah]

You're not supposed to take them down inside the barrel

[Kelix]

I'm not a fan of take-downs.

If you want something portable for the field take a bore snake. Wait to clean it with a fixed rod when you get home.

Waiting a day or two won't wreck the rifling, no need for a take-down rod at all really IMO.

[Jack V]

There should be no burrs in an old worn barrel . Sounds like you put a dry patch in first and it locked up. The first patch should always be wet with oil .
Dewey rods are quite good as are Bore Tech .

[KWhorenet]

Should rods be pushed through? Seems to be asking for flexing to happen if tight

[Jack V]

You don't want to pull a patch or brush from the muzzle end too often . It can wear away at the crown. If you know what you are doing pushing a patch from the chamber is the normal way in bolt actions and no problem, and only pull the brush back after allowing it to fully exit. Many BR shooters don't ever pull a brush back .

If you are having difficulty getting the patch to push through you are doing something wrong, patch too large, too dry, molly coating in bore, wrong jag type for patch etc.

[cooker]

Sounds like you put a dry patch in first and it locked up.

No, the patch was well oiled.

Who knows how I managed to do it

[Jessie]

You don't want to pull a patch or brush from the muzzle end too often . It can wear away at the crown.

That would be with a brass brush only, no risk with a nylon brush if your just scrubbing out with solvent?

[Jack V]

That would be with a brass brush only, no risk with a nylon brush if your just scrubbing out with solvent?

Pulling any brush back into the bore is risky due to the potential for the brass joint catching the edge of the crown , not so much the type of brush it's self . Reversing a bronze brush inside the bore just wrecks the brush . It's the norm for most shooters to stroke back and forth with a brush but I pull it back in with care . There is less need to stroke back and forth with a patch but it can be done with a wrap style jag and just don't let it leave the muzzle.
Pierce style jags you just push the patch through and it usually drops off the end of the jag as it leaves the muzzle , most BR shooters seem to prefer this style .

[Jack V]

No, the patch was well oiled.

Who knows how I managed to do it

Then it must have been too large for the bore , jag and rod system . Probably with a more solid steel rod you would have been ok.

[Warrigul]

That would be with a brass brush only, no risk with a nylon brush if your just scrubbing out with solvent?

A proper brass brush is unable to scratch a bore(I only use brushes with a brass center not steel ones), it is only ever the abrasive rubbish carried along that is the problem.

A nylon brush is capable of just as much damage if used improperly.

[Sender]

Interesting thought about the nylon brushing having the same potential for damage.

It is also my understanding that it's the hard carbon fouling itself being dragged along the barrel the can cause wear (maybe miniscule but for the sake of argument lets say it's right).

With a rigid brass brass I accept the idea, not so sure about nylon brush though... I have doubts that the softer flexible bristles could push the fouling against the barrel firmly enough to do much if anything.

2c.

[Jack V]

That's not what I am talking about . When you push any brush or jag out of the muzzle then drag it back in without due care , the " JOINT " of the brush or jag with the rod can bang into the rifling edge at the crown . Do it hard enough and often enough and you can get crown damage .

[Mark TAC]

If you got a section stuck you could always shoot it out.



(it's OK of course I am joking )

[Sender]

I was actually replying to Warriguls comment in the post above, about dragging carbon around.