Change Boyd stock to suit Varmint barrell

[p3seven]

I have the need to replace the barrell and action on my Howa 1500, 243 W . I have a Boyd thumbhole stock that is for the existing sporter barrell. I would consider purchasing the replacenent with a varmint barrell.

I would think that all l would have to do is set too with a rasp and sandpaper wrapped around a suitably sized dowel, to enlarge the barrell channel. The area with the action would remain unchanged.

Is it that simple?

[bigfellascott]

Yep just open it up mate. I use a socket rapped in sandpaper to do mine.

[Supaduke]

Work slowly and carefully ,use a nice sharp blade and a steel edge to get your outline nice and neat, cut about 5 mil (or as much as needed) deep. Do it in multiple light cuts rather try and do it in one go. Then carefully use a sharp chisel, take out a small trench along your neat edge. Then the dowel and sandpaper should work fine. You can just sand it of course but using a blade will make it square and neat on the visible section.

[bigfellascott]

Work slowly and carefully ,use a nice sharp blade and a steel edge to get your outline nice and neat, cut about 5 mil (or as much as needed) deep. Then carefully use a sharp chisel, take out a small trench along your neat edge. Then the dowel and sandpaper should work fine.

You don't need to do that mate all you do is wrap sandpaper around some dowel or a socket that suits and sand away takes about five mins or so then seal again with some clear sealer of some sort and put it back together it's piss easy to do.

[Supaduke]

Neatness man, Tis all. If you like a nice straight edge.

[Tiger650]

Agree, seal that barrel channel or watch it walk.

I am not a fan of thumbhole stocks, you have a vein on the outside of the thumb / rest of hand joint and pulse beat can have an effect.

You don't need to do that mate all you do is wrap sandpaper around some dowel or a socket that suits and sand away takes about five mins or so then seal again with some clear sealer of some sort and put it back together it's piss easy to do.

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bigfellascott
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[bigfellascott]

Neatness man, Tis all. If you like a nice straight edge.

All mine are neat and edges are straight not sure how straight they'd be after taking to em with a hammer and chisel but.

[Supaduke]

No, the edge is razor straight, you chisel very gently in at a 45 degree angle towards the line you have cut making a small trianglular trench that provides clearance for your cut. You can then sand paper near it without marking the timber. Yes, just ripping into it with sandpaper is quick and easy. but is this a race? Also barrels taper and have slight angles. Using a steel edge and blade, while taking your time and measuring, will maintain that taper and angles along your barrel channel. Using the blade will give you a neat , definitive, measured edge. Sanding just by eye could leave uneven gaps along your barrel. Because the barrel has straight edges these will look very unsightly. Just offering an alternative is all.

[bigfellascott]

No, the edge is razor straight, you chisel very gently in at a 45 degree angle towards the line you have cut making a small trianglular trench that provides clearance for your cut. You can then sand paper near it without marking the timber. Yes, just ripping into it with sandpaper is quick and easy. but is this a race? Also barrels taper and have slight angles. Using a steel edge and blade, while taking your time and measuring, will maintain that taper and angles along your barrel channel. Using the blade will give you a neat , definitive, measured edge. Sanding just by eye could leave uneven gaps along your barrel. Because the barrel has straight edges these will look very unsightly. Just offering an alternative is all.

Your complicating the process mate trust me, the dowel/sandpaper or socket/sandpaper is used by just about everyone I know who has ever opened up their barrel channel to free float their barrels etc, as I said used it many many times, never had any of this uneven issue you perceive will happen.

Anyway mate use whatever method floats ya boat, be f***ed if I'd be rooting around with a hammer/chisel/vice/sandpaper etc etc when a socket, sandpaper and 5mins of ya time will get the job done just fine. FYI the Howa barrels only tamper slightly at the Knoxform/chamber area, other than that they are the same all the way to the muzzle, which makes them very easy to work with when it comes to things like this.

[Supaduke]

Actually there is a slight taper. Goes from around 35mm around the chamber , then 30mm just after that, and around 25mm at the muzzle.
I will check the difference in barrel profiles when I get home from work. I'm not trying to argue here, just offering another way.

[bigfellascott]

Actually there is a slight taper. Goes from around 35mm around the chamber , then 30mm just after that, and around 25mm at the muzzle.
I will check the difference in barrel profiles when I get home from work. I'm not trying to argue here, just offering another way.

That's what I said in my post! as for the muzzle, well that don't matter as it's not in the barrel channel so won't make any diff trust me you don't need to be rooting around with hammers and chisels to open up a barrel channel!

[bigfellascott]

Not a hammer or chisel in sight! and it's from Randy Boyd of Boyds Gunstock fame himself

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxqbymnNeKQ

[Supaduke]

You know he wants to put a different profile barrel in right? Not just float his existing one. There is a difference. A lot more material needs to be removed and the taper is different from a sporter barrel. Floating only requires a skim, and yes your method is exactly what is needed to float a barrel. Changing barrel weight will need a new inlet. If you don't have a mill, the blade method works well for a machined edge look.

[bigfellascott]

Yes mate well aware he's wanting to open up a Boyds sporter profile stock to suit a varmint profile - been there done that used the method I mentioned didn't need hammers chisels vices or any other crap just the trusty Ol socket and sand paper method I've been using for the last 20-30yrs now but hey what would I know.

[Supaduke]

Look mate, I have also been working with timber for 20-30 years. You seem determined to dismiss my method as 'rooting around' . If taking an extra hour to do the job so it's measured and precise is not to your liking then don't do it. I really don't see how we ended up at this point. I'm not arguing with you, just explaining a different method. There are many ways to skin this cat. If a socket and sandpaper is enough for you, do it that way. Gunsmiths have been using hammer and chisels to make stocks since firearms were invented , but what would they know...

[Supaduke]

That probably came across a bit passive aggressive.

Let's just call it
Option A: Sand it
Option B: Cut it, Sand it



Here is a sample of my handy work in case you feel like I'm blowing smoke out of my butt.
I made this cot out of mesimate ( a type of eucalyptus) and recycled timber.
Let's share the knowledge gents

image.jpeg (1.18 MiB) Viewed 5386 times

Ended up coating it in polyurethane instead of the usual shellac at the wife's insistence lol

[bigfellascott]

That probably came across a bit passive aggressive.

Let's just call it
Option A: Sand it
Option B: Cut it, Sand it



Here is a sample of my handy work in case you feel like I'm blowing smoke out of my butt.
I made this cot out of mesimate ( a type of eucalyptus) and recycled timber.
Let's share the knowledge gents

image.jpeg

Ended up coating it in polyurethane instead of the usual shellac at the wife's insistence lol

Nice mate I've made a few beds out of bearers also made my kitchen cupboards and archways out of Ol floorboards came up a treat too - sliding compound saw router and biscuit joiner were the main tools used.

[Supaduke]

Yeah, biscuit joiners are very nifty tools. Sure beats doing it by hand. All the rungs along the side of the cot are biscuit joins.

[bigfellascott]

KISS is the way I work, why complicate things if you don't have to hey.

[p3seven]

Settle down you two. You have both provided me with the information to progress. The info on the differences in diamiter of the barrells at the chamber end means i will have to dig out some of the bedding material (mabye even rebed the lot). The laminate wood in the Boyds stock is very soft when working with the grain so sandpapers of various grits will be my choice. I have a can of auto clear coat to use to finish.

[SendIt]

Neatness man, Tis all. If you like a nice straight edge.

People like a nice quick n' easy edge.