Need some help

[SamHuntVic]

My mate has an Anschutz Model 1400 .22 LR rifle.
I recently did a bit of refurbishment on the rifle but when I got to the bolt, I couldn't take it apart.
The rifle fires only intermittently over a wide range of ammo, say, misfires 50%. The misfires work in my rifle.
The strike marks are pretty good on the casings but I reckon the pin is just not hitting hard enough.
I have a feeling that the bolt spring is a bit tired being over 40 years old.
Does anybody have a clue to dissembling the bolt or know where I could get another? I think it's a bit of a rarey so taking it apart would probably be the best option.
I can get pictures if that would help.
Grant.

[Gamerancher]

Could be worn on the bolt handle/receiver basically causing a head-space problem. Have a similar problem with an old single shot. Rimfire need a tight bolt-face to chamber/case-head fit to reliably fire.

[bladeracer]

http://jga.anschuetz-sport.com/download ... ?downloads

I thought Numrich would have schematics but no luck, unless you know if the 1400 is the same as other models?

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/Manufactur ... -33122.htm

[SamHuntVic]

Thanks for that bladeracer, I accessed that Anschutz doc before and it is really no help. I can't tell if the bolt is the same as later 1400 versions like 1403 etc. Would need detailed drawings for that.
Gamerancher, that could be the problem rather than the spring. Looks like a job for a gunsmith rather than an amateur. But then again is it worth it? He might be better off buying anew rifle.
Thanks, Grant.

[bladeracer]

Thanks for that bladeracer, I accessed that Anschutz doc before and it is really no help. I can't tell if the bolt is the same as later 1400 versions like 1403 etc. Would need detailed drawings for that.
Gamerancher, that could be the problem rather than the spring. Looks like a job for a gunsmith rather than an amateur. But then again is it worth it? He might be better off buying anew rifle.
Thanks, Grant.

Cut some shims out of a Coke can and measure the headspace. Soft drink cans are 0.002" thick from memory.

All I can suggest is to post some good clear photos of the bolt as somebody might recognise it and know how to get it apart.
I remember it took me an embarrassingly long time to get the Remington 510 bolt apart

[SamHuntVic]

I have found info I need for taking it apart, it needs a bit of persuasion apparently.
Re the shims, are you suggesting that they be diameter of the bolt face, then close the bolt on one to see if it's tight?
I haven't attempted anything like this before.
Grant.

[bladeracer]

I have found info I need for taking it apart, it needs a bit of persuasion apparently.
Re the shims, are you suggesting that they be diameter of the bolt face, then close the bolt on one to see if it's tight?
I haven't attempted anything like this before.
Grant.

If the extractor is easily removed then I'd do it against the bolt face as you said. If it's not easily removed I'd check if replacements are available before forcing anything.
But, if you can get the bolt apart I wouldn't worry about the headspace. Assuming it's a striker rather than a firing pin, take the striker spring off and make sure the striker can go far enough forward through the bolt to almost strike the breach face of the barrel. If it's an old design the striker might actually hit the barrel, in which case make a note not to dry fire it.
If the striker is long enough then try putting some washers on to preload the spring and see if that improves the misfire rate.
You can also try putting some shim in between the bolt lug and receiver to lock the bolt further forward and see if that helps.

[Gamerancher]

An easy way to tell if it's closing tight on the case is to pull the bullet from a live round, tip the powder out and use a texta to colour the head of the case. chamber the case and then extract it. ( keeping the muzzle pointed in a SAFE direction of course) If the colour hasn't been rubbed off on the bolt face it may be a head-spacing issue. I like a slight crush-fit on my .22's.

[SamHuntVic]

Thank you gentlemen.
I'll try those things in a logical order and report the results.
You've been a great help.
Grant

[Gwion]

You can also try putting some shim in between the bolt lug and receiver to lock the bolt further forward and see if that helps.

This sounds like the simplest way to troubleshoot the issue. If the shimmed action/bolt result in no misfires, get a smith to reset headspace. If it makes no difference, probably an issue with the Spring.

[pomemax]

file:///C:/Users/user/Downloads/BA_Match54_1971-05-01_DE.pdf page 12 to disassemble bolt

[keg]

If the rifle has the correct head-space which most do, I have found that many 22's having issues with firing ammo is the absolute firing pin protrusion. Take the bolt out and see if you can push the FP as far forward as it can go. It must protrude a minimum of .025 of an inch. Maximum should never be greater than .044"

On flat FP the shape of the FP can be the issue if it is rounded off instead of being squared off or is to thick at the tip and delivers the energy to an enlarged area of the rim. If the tip is not shaped correctly and you have plenty of protrusion its not a big deal to work it down correctly. I usually minutely break the 4 corners so as not to pierce a primer, just a lick or two with a file on each corner. The break on the corners will be so small you will have to use a loop to see it good. If there is not enough protrusion and you are close say at .020" you can stretch a flat FP by laying it flat on a hard piece of steel and laying a punch across it sideways and striking the punch. Sometimes you have to do it on both sides several times at different places to get the stretch you require. I try to set them around .035" Most flat FPs will have a ledge or step in them that is stopping forward motion. If that is the case and you have a lot to make up you can increase FP protrusion by working down that step. It all depends how far the FP should go after being struck some guns are designed to deliver all the energy of the hammer to the primer. Some guns allow the FP to go past the hammer travel and free travel to the primer. Each case is different and increasing protrusion is dependent on those facts.

On a round FP there is usually a shoulder stopping the FP forward motion. To get more protrusion I put it in a lathe and work it back the required amount to get the protrusion needed. If a guy didn't have a lathe you could chuck it up in a drill press and use a file with a safe edge and work the shoulder back. I'd do it slow and take lots of measurements until it was back as far as needed. The tip on a round FP should be perfectly hemispherical. The OD of a round 22 FP tip escapes me but I'm sure it's on the net somewhere, I have yet had to work on the OD of round 22 FP due to misfires. Tip thickness seems to be flat FP issue mostly

If all that is good then I check what ever brings energy to the FP to make sure spring tension is correct at full cock.
If that's good then many times I have found something is slowing the FP down on its way in. Look for witness marks where the FP or the striking device is hitting or scraping against something. On some guns you only have to take a little energy away from the hammer, striker, or FP and you will get uncertain ignition.

None of it's magic, a guy needs correct FP protrusion with the correct amount of energy over the correct surface area.

[SamHuntVic]

Thanks for that detailed info Keg, most enlightening.
The situation is resolved.
The bolt had a crack in it and a piece has broken off during the reassembly. I can't see how this fault (crack) could possibly affect the striking ability of the FP but it is no longer an issue.
At first I thought that I had broken the thing myself but not the case. Normal pressure by hand was used to reassemble. The crack is shown in the pic.
So now old mate is looking for a bolt or old rifle complete to salvage a bolt as the original rifle is/was a top shooter.

1400 bolt crack.jpg (256 KiB) Viewed 3567 times

The pink stuff is not rust it's soap powder come off some steel wool, the discolouration is from years of neglect and was much worse before a steel wool polish.
Grant

[bladeracer]

Bugger
On the side where the crack runs out to the edge it looks to me like new metal, indicating both the crack and the missing piece let go at the same time. If it were a long-lasting crack the metal inside the crack should be oxidised. First thing you look for in an engine failure is did it let go all at once or are there discoloured cracks indicating a failure building up over time.
I'm not familiar with the action so I can't guess what might've caused the crack, but I'd prefer to know before putting another bolt in and having it do the same.