Cracked timber stock = Bin job?

[lowb]

My old mans Rem 700 has a noticeable crack in the stock.

Starts at the palm, goes about 4" into the butt.

The crack doesn't extend to either side to sever the timber, figure it must have twisted somehow.

It's definitely a crack though, not a scratch.

His is chambered in .270 so has a bit of kick, given where it's at is it probably a matter of time before the stock comes in half from a shot?

[bladeracer]

My old mans Rem 700 has a noticeable crack in the stock.

Starts at the palm, goes about 4" into the butt.

The crack doesn't extend to either side to sever the timber, figure it must have twisted somehow.

It's definitely a crack though, not a scratch.

His is chambered in .270 so has a bit of kick, given where it's at is it probably a matter of time before the stock comes in half from a shot?

I'd be very surprised if it can't be repaired, but whether it can be done for much less than buying a replacement I don't know.

[Wm.Traynor]

If you don't care about appearance (? ) how about stabilising it with PVC glue and wooden dowels? BTW, I am having trouble visualising its location

[bigfellascott]

If you don't care about appearance (? ) how about stabilising it with PVC glue and wooden dowels? BTW, I am having trouble visualising its location

That's what I was thinking too - should work fine.

[Oldbloke]

If you don't care about appearance (? ) how about stabilising it with PVC glue and wooden dowels? BTW, I am having trouble visualising its location

Did that to a 12g once. Worked OK. Check out YouTube

[sandgroperbill]

Also depends on the timber.

By that, I mean if it was a plain or ugly bit of wood, this could be an excuse for a pretty replacement.

Otherwise, see if you can fill and glue it, or use a screw or bolt depending on exactly where the crack is and how deep it runs

[on_one_wheel]

I'd glue n screw it.

If you use some nice brass counter sunk wood screws and counter sink the holes so the heads of the screws end up below the surface, you could putty up the holes with putty the same colour as the wood, sand it back smooth and re finish that area or the whole stock.

Done well you would struggle to spot the repair.

Or you could keep your eye out for a nice replacement.
I've managed to get my hands on a good spare rem 700 stock for modification for $70.

[Oldbloke]

https://youtu.be/pKJTyhcuKdY

https://youtu.be/9D3S-vBT0Ns

[straightshooter]

I haven't followed this thread too closely but if the crack hasn't passed too deeply through the wood then an almost invisible and durable repair is possible.
There are some very runny clear epoxies available with a pot life of 2 to 3 hours that harden in 24 hours with full strength in 7 days. They are more like 2 pack than your normal araldite.
IF THE CRACK IS AMENABLE then I would mask the finish around the crack, prop open the crack and work the freely flowing mixed epoxy as deeply and extensively into the crack as possible. When I was happy with that I would prop the crack closed and hope to see a bead of epoxy extrude for the full length of the crack.
I would promptly remove the masking tape after the epoxy has hardened somewhat and use a razor blade if necessary so as not to disturb the bead of epoxy.
After a week or more I would use wet & dry to blend the epoxy bead into the existing finish assuming it is synthetic.
The reality is though, it is probably easier to find a good cheap used stock that is now unloved due to the current mania for wannabee tactical conversions.

[VICHunter]

BTW, I am having trouble visualising its location

If you were holding the rifle the crack would go from the middle of your palm to just past your wrist.

As I read it...

[Oldbloke]

BTW, I am having trouble visualising its location

If you were holding the rifle the crack would go from the middle of your palm to just past your wrist.

As I read it...

Need a pic. Vertical or horizontal?

[happyhunter]

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