Bit of help with a tikka chassis...

Improving and repairing firearms. Rifle bedding, barrel work, stock replacement and other ways to improve your firearms.

Bit of help with a tikka chassis...

Post by Patty93 » 26 Mar 2018, 6:55 pm

Lads,

Grabbing a tikka t3x varmint in the coming days, and I wanna get right into planning the upgrades... I have picked up a bushnell DMR2 with a horus h59 retical to sit on top but am looking to build this gun into a precision hunting platform. She is to be chambered in .308 (yes i know this is not the best round for long range shooting, but for the cost efficiency of the round I am making that sacrifice).

What I am looking for is..

Help on what chassis/stock upgrades I can throw on top that are NSW legal, and will not significantly increase weight of the firearm as I plan on walking this bad girl through some steep terrain in the future... I have seen a lot of options but i worry about the NSW legalities with the stocks and looks etc...

Help on what to do in regards to bipods, was thinking a rail attachable bipod might be better, thus allowing me to ease to remove it for when I know ill be using shooting sticks or a tripod for example..

I know you guys are a wealth of knowledge and I look forward to what you guys can recumbent.


Cheers,


tty
Patty93
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Re: Bit of help with a tikka chassis...

Post by sungazer » 26 Mar 2018, 7:53 pm

A wood stock is often lighter than a chassis stock even with the plastic parts. I would have a look at the MDT LSS-XL no need for a rail mounted bipod a Harris clone on a stud works fine. A sling can be attached to the bipod also. There are a range of Magpul butt stocks that are legal in NSW as long as it is fixed. I like the PRS version a bit more pricey than some. But adjustable in nearly every way.
The 308 will do everything you want and more.
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Re: Bit of help with a tikka chassis...

Post by nightforcenxs » 26 Mar 2018, 8:14 pm

i have the exact gun in 308 and ive got mine in a mdt HS3 chassis with a nightforce nxs 8-32x56 and its heavy wouldnt want to carry it around especially up hills look at the lss-xl gen 2 from mdt you wont be disappointed in accuracy as for bipod nothing wrong with a harris on the sling swivel stud another nice chassis is the XLR industries chassis systems i would stay clear from the lucky 13 ones ive never seen anyone have good luck with them but MDT has always been nice
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Re: Bit of help with a tikka chassis...

Post by Bent Arrow » 26 Mar 2018, 8:28 pm

Seems like you want to tick boxes that don't generally go hand in hand. A 308 with a heavy barrel in a chassis with a tactical scope doesnt sound like something I'd be keen to carry on long walks in the hills. Personally, Id be looking at one rifle for long range target/plinking and something else that is light to carry in the hills that will shoot MOA.
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Re: Bit of help with a tikka chassis...

Post by Rod_outbak » 27 Mar 2018, 4:09 am

[attachment=0]DSCN1880 Web Copy.JPG[/attachment]

I bought a T3 Hunter Stainless Fluted in 7mm-08; back in 2014. A distance-shooting mate ran the barrel in for me, and worked up some loads for it.

Had loads of grief with it(couldnt get decent groupings), until we ditched the wood stock, and swapped it with a mates Varmint stock, and upgraded the scope.
We had even tried having the wood stock professionally bedded by a gunsmith, but the real improvement came about when we installed a Nightforce SHV 5-20x56 MOAR, and the varmint stock. We also found the original wood stock would get damaged with the slightest knock; seemed to be very soft.
Now, it shoots well under MOA with 120gn V-Max pills, and I've nailed ferals out beyond 400 metres, with very violent results.

Recoil was a bit bitey; I found it wasnt making using the rifle enjoyable, and I even gave myself scope eyebrow one afternoon, when shooting from a crappy rest. I was on blood thinners at the time, and so bled like a freaking stuck pig!
I ended up having the rifle fitted with a removable muzzle brake by Lee Trengrove (http://www.trentech.com.au), and he machined the barrel and fitted a 3-chamber brake for me, which looks like it came from the factory.
I dont shoot at ranges at all, and the brake is removable if I did need to do so.

Brake cost around $400 installed at the time, and makes the recoil to about the same as a .223.
HUGE improvement in how nice the rifle is to shoot, and I hadnt realised how much the recoil was causing me to flinch.

Rifle has ended up being light, durable (no rain-sensitive components), good for medium distance, and hits really hard.
120gn V-max pills seem to be a great all-rounder for most Australian game.
My go-to rifle for walking/hunting.
About the only downside is the barrel will heat up after 5-10 rounds in quick succession, but it cools down quickly. Besides; I dont often shoot that many rounds quickly.

When I get the time and money, the Remington 700 .308 (bottom rifle) is going down for the same treatment.

The T3 is the middle rifle in the attached pic.

Cheers,

Rod.
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Sharing the extreme love with cats in Outback QLD
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Re: Bit of help with a tikka chassis...

Post by SCJ429 » 30 Mar 2018, 6:18 pm

GC Precision Development make a beautiful chassis if you have 2.5k to spend otherwise try to find a Tikka tac A1 chassis. Is it possible to leave it in the plastic stock and spend the money on Berger target projectiles. They will make the biggest difference in your shooting in the long run.
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