Oldbloke wrote:Brass is softer than steel. Steel resists abrasion better than brass. The brass may wear but not the steel.
So, "No way hos'e".
Having said that any dirt that is harder than steel that is on the brass jag could theoretically afraid the crown. But would take many years.
P.S. stop cleaning your 22lr
No1Mk3 wrote:(1) What can damage the crown is use of a wood, fibreglass or nylon rod from the muzzle end with Silica particles embedded in the rod abrading the crown.
(2) This kind of damage is often seen in military rifles subjected to cleaning with a pull through where the string is allowed to ride on the edge, and although many will tell you it is the string that causes the damage it is in fact the hard grit embedded in the string.
bladeracer wrote:Oldbloke wrote:Brass is softer than steel. Steel resists abrasion better than brass. The brass may wear but not the steel.
So, "No way hos'e".
Having said that any dirt that is harder than steel that is on the brass jag could theoretically afraid the crown. But would take many years.
P.S. stop cleaning your 22lr
When two materials run together, both surfaces wear, the "harder" surface just wears more. Even a piece of cloth with eventually wear metal away.
No1Mk3 wrote:I have never damaged a crown through use of a jag, Mohs Scale determines that wear will not occur in your lifetime unless you clean daily and live a very long time. What can damage the crown is use of a wood, fibreglass or nylon rod from the muzzle end with Silica particles embedded in the rod abrading the crown. This kind of damage is often seen in military rifles subjected to cleaning with a pull through where the string is allowed to ride on the edge, and although many will tell you it is the string that causes the damage it is in fact the hard grit embedded in the string. I would say that the high velocity projectile (often steel jacketed) and very hot gases from firing will damage your crown long before any cleaning damage shows up, Cheers.
Oldbloke wrote:Nonsense.
Car bigends, one is cast iron the other white metal. (Lead and tin) How fast do they wear out?
Utterly laughable.
Oldbloke wrote:bladeracer wrote:Oldbloke wrote:Brass is softer than steel. Steel resists abrasion better than brass. The brass may wear but not the steel.
So, "No way hos'e".
Having said that any dirt that is harder than steel that is on the brass jag could theoretically afraid the crown. But would take many years.
P.S. stop cleaning your 22lr
When two materials run together, both surfaces wear, the "harder" surface just wears more. Even a piece of cloth with eventually wear metal away.
Nonsense.
Car bigends, one is cast iron the other white metal. (Lead and tin) How fast do they wear out?
Bronze bushes in old electric motors, almost no lube. Running for years.
Steel hammer hitting copper or brass punch to knock in bearings the punch mushrooms, but hammer lasts a lifetime.
And we are worried about a brass jag, would take 100s of 000s of strokes.
Utterly laughable.
SCJ429 wrote:Oldbloke wrote:Nonsense.
Car bigends, one is cast iron the other white metal. (Lead and tin) How fast do they wear out?
Utterly laughable.
Have you ever seen a crank that has spun a bearing? What caused the grooves that were carved into the big end? The bearing ran out of oil and friction wore away at the steel.
You can also punch holes in steel with soft copper and lead bullet. Why can soft metals travelling at 3,000 fps damage a much harder metal?
Barrel makers always complain that they see damage to their barrels caused by poor cleaning practices.
straightshooter wrote:Gamerancher
I don't believe you are a practising journalist so you should limit the hyperbole and tell the whole story not just the bits that tend towards a misleading understanding or a belief in magic.
Only an idiot (and unfortunately there are quite a few of them around) would believe that it's the actual rubber brake hose and not the abrasive materials that find their way in between the rubber and your 1/2" thick diff housing that do the damage.
Similarly for your nylon air lines.
For those still confused but interested read up on how and why a lap works.
JimTom wrote:I guess it’s possible if you’re a bit hand fisted, for want of a better term. I always remove the jag prior to pulling the rod back through the barrel.
LawrenceA wrote:Chip the steel no way. Barrels are tough and not brittle.
Brass wear steel No way. Brass is too soft.
BUT Grit can imbed in the brass which can abrade steel over time. This is what damages crowns.
This is why laps are made from soft metal and why most top end rods are stainless steel.
If grit imbeds then it imbeds in the barrel and wears the rod.
Anyway that is my 2 cents
JohnV wrote:I agree it's the potential grit that can cause an issue over time . How you clean has a lot to do with it also . Did you know that some primers contain powdered glass . That's the hot sparks you see coming from some ignited primers magnums being the worst and Federal 210 Match being about the mildest .
Oldbloke wrote:JohnV wrote:I agree it's the potential grit that can cause an issue over time . How you clean has a lot to do with it also . Did you know that some primers contain powdered glass . That's the hot sparks you see coming from some ignited primers magnums being the worst and Federal 210 Match being about the mildest .
That's a very good point. Glass is a great abrasive and certainly has potential to eventually do damage. Think cabinet makers glass paper.
The ground glass is added in order to increase the impact sensitivity of the primer compound.
Oldbloke wrote:
Nonsense.
Car bigends, one is cast iron the other white metal. (Lead and tin) How fast do they wear out?
Bronze bushes in old electric motors, almost no lube. Running for years.
Steel hammer hitting copper or brass punch to knock in bearings the punch mushrooms, but hammer lasts a lifetime.
And we are worried about a brass jag, would take 100s of 000s of strokes.
Utterly laughable.
Die Judicii wrote:Oldbloke wrote:
Nonsense.
Car bigends, one is cast iron the other white metal. (Lead and tin) How fast do they wear out?
Bronze bushes in old electric motors, almost no lube. Running for years.
Steel hammer hitting copper or brass punch to knock in bearings the punch mushrooms, but hammer lasts a lifetime.
And we are worried about a brass jag, would take 100s of 000s of strokes.
Utterly laughable.
OB,
Big end bearings in cars are lubricated with the oil which theoretically should have no grit contained in it due to filtration.
You are of course correct, but think of the incredible pressure involved and the 3000 rpm for 1000s of hours. And a jag, at 10 or so stokes pm
The bronze bushes you speak of would normally be "sintered bronze" which has lubricant in itself.
And,,,, there is a big difference between "impact" and "abrasion".
It is different, but my point was the differences in the forces involved.
Somebody (above) mentioned rubber and nylon brake lines wearing through a cast steel diff housing.
This will readily occur especially so if there is an abrasive agent combined. eg. sand/mud/water/grease/oil plus friction/vibration/rubbing = soft wearing away or abraiding the harder material.