Buying and Bolting Safe

Equipment and accessories for shooting. Safes, firearm storage, bipods, carry cases, slings etc.

Buying and Bolting Safe

Post by orca » 29 Nov 2016, 7:46 pm

Hey fellas.

I'm looking to buy a safe, will hold 2-3 rifles and comes with box at the top with a weight of about 50 - 75kg.

I know I need to bolt them in, the questions is, is it recommend to bolt them 4 places into the floor and if possible onto a wall to secure the top to prevent shaking of the safe incase of theft etc or is 4 bolts into the ground enough?

Also do the anchor bolts go through the bottom of the safe into the concrete floor, I imagine they do but just to be sure.

Any other tips/tricks will alos help. Like should I keep it in the garage, or hidden in the shed etc.

Any little bit helps.

Thanks in advance.
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Re: Buying and Bolting Safe

Post by YoungBuck » 29 Nov 2016, 8:25 pm

You will want to do the wall as well, you will notice a bit of shake in the safe otherwise. Also makes it easier for a crim to rip the safe out by hand if not also wall bolted, means there's leverage for someone to pull it over and potentially pull the bolts out of the ground or snap them.

I cant speak for all safes but mine (5 rifle safe [which realistically holds 3]) has the bolts go through the bottom and into the floor.
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Re: Buying and Bolting Safe

Post by jaydos » 29 Nov 2016, 8:28 pm

4 bolts to the floor is all you really need, mines just bolted to the floor and has the most miniscule amount of movement when you try to shake it from the top. It is situated under a set of stairs though so its a bit hard to really get in and shake shake shake....
if you arent sure on dynabolts you can always throw a bit of chemset down the hole as well.

Remember though that you can never be too safe and if you feel more comfortable bolting it to the wall as well then just do it.

I am a firm believer of 'out of site out of mind' so my safe is pretty much hidden and unless i told you it was there you'd have no idea.
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Re: Buying and Bolting Safe

Post by bladeracer » 30 Nov 2016, 6:46 am

bentaz wrote:Do yourself a favor and get something at least 4times that size, you'll be kicking yourself in no time if you don't!



Yep, "2-3 rifles" refers to .22 rimfire single-shots and/or break-action shotguns.
Trying to getting anything else in there with a scoped centrefire bolt-rifle is likely to be hard work.
Practice Strict Gun Control - Precision Counts!
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Re: Buying and Bolting Safe

Post by Cooper » 30 Nov 2016, 6:54 am

bentaz wrote:Do yourself a favor and get something at least 4times that size, you'll be kicking yourself in no time if you don't!


Defiantly buy bigger than you think you'll even need. I have a 7 capacity gun safe and have 6 guns now. They only just fit in! I'll probably buy a 11 capacity gun safe next
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Re: Buying and Bolting Safe

Post by Antie » 30 Nov 2016, 9:45 am

YoungBuck wrote:You will want to do the wall as well, you will notice a bit of shake in the safe otherwise. Also makes it easier for a crim to rip the safe out by hand if not also wall bolted, means there's leverage for someone to pull it over and potentially pull the bolts out of the ground or snap them.


Cops will check for that during your inspection too, gotta make sure it's good :thumbsup:
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Re: Buying and Bolting Safe

Post by Baronvonrort » 30 Nov 2016, 10:01 am

orca wrote:Hey fellas.

I'm looking to buy a safe, will hold 2-3 rifles and comes with box at the top with a weight of about 50 - 75kg.



It will make a fine ammo safe one day when you end up buying more guns and upgrade to a bigger safe.

I would suggest getting a bigger safe that says it can hold 10 rifles then you know it should hold 5, they all lie when claiming how many they can hold.
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Re: Buying and Bolting Safe

Post by happyhunter » 30 Nov 2016, 12:28 pm

Don't know about NSW but there is a guide as to what minimum is required to fix a safe to the floor and wall.
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Re: Buying and Bolting Safe

Post by Supaduke » 30 Nov 2016, 12:44 pm

In reality, the best defence for safe keeping your guns is not let people know you have them. Be mindful when transferring your guns to and from the car. Don't put ruger or browning stickers on your car. Most safes can be broken into in under 5 minutes with an 18v grinder and a cutting wheel. Unless you spend big dollars on a high security safe, it's mostly to stop the kids getting access. Be wary of tradies etc or any stranger entering your house. Something as simple as covering the safe with a blanket can make the difference.

All it takes is tools and time.
If there is someone in your house with intent, sadly your guns are gone.
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Re: Buying and Bolting Safe

Post by Prettybird » 30 Nov 2016, 1:00 pm

Have a read here, Orca

http://www.police.nsw.gov.au/__data/ass ... 5_V1.6.pdf

Do I have to secure my receptacle to the premises?

Yes. If the receptacle used for storing the firearms weighs less than 150kg (when empty), the receptacle must be
secured to the structure of the building. The receptacle should be secured by way of expanding anchor bolts (or similar)
fixed internally through the base and/or back of the receptacle. The securing points should not be visible or accessible
externally from the receptacle.

* When mounted onto brick, stone or concrete, it should be attached by at least four (4) masonry anchors 90mm in
length and 10mm in diameter internally fitted through holes in the rear and/or base of the container, securing it to
the floor and/or wall. The receptacle should be mounted flush with the floor and/or wall.

* When mounted onto main wall studs, it should be fitted flush against the wall and secured to the wall studs and/or
floor joists by four (4) galvanized hexagon head coach screws, not less than 65mm in length and 8mm in diameter.
The receptacle should be mounted flush with the floor and/or wall.
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