Cowboy Action Shooting Firearm Recommendations

[Member-Deleted]

Hi Fellas.

Just researching my options for future endeavors, what firearms would you recommend for Cowboy Action Shooting? Must be .357, and Walnut/Stainless (I'm addicted) or 12g for the Shotgun.

My choices thus far:

Rifle- I don't know yet.
Shotgun- Boito Coach Gun
Revolvers- Ruger Vaquero (Doesn't come with Walnut Grips but I suppose I can be appeased with Rosewood)

Cheers!

[CrackThump]

rifle.. consider the rossi 92. .. a quite excellent peice of kit

[Member-Deleted]

rifle.. consider the rossi 92. .. a quite excellent peice of kit

So it seems, does in need to have a smithing job done to it to ease the action and trigger?

[womble]

Anything would if you bought it new and wanted to compete with it

[Member-Deleted]

Anything would if you bought it new and wanted to compete with it

Okay, thanks for the heads up.

[Tiger650]

rifle.. consider the rossi 92. .. a quite excellent peice of kit

Ditto above,
The rifles / carbines manufactured in the last 10 yrs are good out of the box and can be made the equal of anything by some easy owner applied modifications / tuning.
I have a 16" bbl .38/.357 which is a gem.

[boingk]

I'd love to get into the Cowboy action scene, just need the coachgun and revolver to get started, now I have the Marlin 1895 hehe...

Any news on the pistol licence application process in NSW at the moment?

[mickb]

Most of the fellas shooting 357 or 38 these days at top levels are using the 1873's either Uberti or Win/miroku made. This is because the 1873 can be 'shortstroked 'with a kit to reduce the lever travel and these cycle rounds faster than any other action. Worth noting a shortstroked gun cannot handle full house 357 anymore as it weakens the action. 1873's arent cheap, I think pushing over $2k and then you need the kit on top of that.

1894 and 1892 still make a showing and realistically many shooters will still be fast enough to enjoy the sport with one. Both actions running smooth are faster than a normal 1873, but as mentioned cant match the shortstroked 1873's. These actions are often less expensive(about 1500 for marlins and 900-1100 for rossi 92's) and stronger than the 1873 so you can push the 357 harder in them if hunting is your other aim. Note winchester does its 1892 as well and costs closer to 2k.

A lot of the fellas also load 38 special into their lever actions to save a bit of powder and recoil, or if they have 38 on hand from pistol shooting. Rifles are individual as to how well they feed the shorter 38 special. post on which action likes 38 special the best and you will get varying opinions.I think generally the 1873 is a bit less finicky going off average replies but you can still get a 94 or 92 that loves them. Also the usual fix is to just load them closer to 357 length and change bullet shape until they cycle well.

There are also brass 1866 actions and a few odds and bods in dedicated 38 special chamber as well( cant chamber 357 being too short). Uberti does an 1873 in 38 special as well but its special order/import, about 12 months wait time.

As to shotguns and pistols, no idea sorry.

[bladeracer]

I have a short-stroke kit for my Uberti 66 in .38 Special. I did install it but it locked up the action so I guess it requires some hand fitting, never tried it again.

Most of the fellas shooting 357 or 38 these days at top levels are using the 1873's either Uberti or Win/miroku made. This is because the 1873 can be 'shortstroked 'with a kit to reduce the lever travel and these cycle rounds faster than any other action. Worth noting a shortstroked gun cannot handle full house 357 anymore as it weakens the action. 1873's arent cheap, I think pushing over $2k and then you need the kit on top of that.

1894 and 1892 still make a showing and realistically many shooters will still be fast enough to enjoy the sport with one. Both actions running smooth are faster than a normal 1873, but as mentioned cant match the shortstroked 1873's. These actions are often less expensive(about 1500 for marlins and 900-1100 for rossi 92's) and stronger than the 1873 so you can push the 357 harder in them if hunting is your other aim. Note winchester does its 1892 as well and costs closer to 2k.

A lot of the fellas also load 38 special into their lever actions to save a bit of powder and recoil, or if they have 38 on hand from pistol shooting. Rifles are individual as to how well they feed the shorter 38 special. post on which action likes 38 special the best and you will get varying opinions.I think generally the 1873 is a bit less finicky going off average replies but you can still get a 94 or 92 that loves them. Also the usual fix is to just load them closer to 357 length and change bullet shape until they cycle well.

There are also brass 1866 actions and a few odds and bods in dedicated 38 special chamber as well( cant chamber 357 being too short). Uberti does an 1873 in 38 special as well but its special order/import, about 12 months wait time.

As to shotguns and pistols, no idea sorry.

[boingk]

I've been looking into this myself since I posted originally.

I looked a lot at the Rossi 92 Puma in 20" barrel 357 Magnum but ended up going for a Marlin 1894 in the same and 18.5" barrel. Honestly they're just a higher quality gun, bit more to purchase but I picked one up in as-new condition for a good discount. You'll get a better sight accuracy with the '94 action versus the Rossi's '92 as well because you can mount sights to the 94's receiver instead of having to mount to the barrel on the 92.

Shotgun I'd go something like a Boito/Stoeger coachgun as you've mentioned, 20" side-by-side 12 gauge. Easy, cheap, run well. You'll find plenty of praise from owners. If buying new they come in a variety of finishes including nickel. Plenty for sale secondhand around the 300 to 400 mark - that's how I got mine.

The handgun? I am only just getting into these at the moment so can't comment as my experience is all based on research and not first-hand.

One more thing, don't be intimidated to smith the action on the levergun yourself. They are not complex things. If you can use wet-dry sandpaper and WD40 to smooth rough edges etc then that's about all there is to it. I have recently done a basic factory disassemble and clean job on my early model Winchester '92... it took me about 2 hours at a relaxed pace to strip, clean and reassemble again. Plenty of guides out there for you to follow.

Cheers - boingk