Tikka T# 22-250 wont shoot

[marksman]

the movement would usually indicate the slop that would have the case laying on the bottom of the chamber and the bullet is not directly inline with the bore
sending the bullet off center to the bore causing a bigger group
the gunsmith is right some people pay money for a tight chamber but not a short chamber,
the problem should be rectified after fireforming but it doesn't seem to be
what l do know is that if a rifle shoots with something it can again

[Stix]

Maybe when i get some brass sorted for it, ill jam some nullets to form the brass & see what happens...

[Member-Deleted]

Stix I've set up quiet a few 22-250's mate what i'd do and someone on here has probably said it but here goes i'd get 12 new brass load them to min load and fire them in that rifle then neck them check their length but I doubt they'll need trimming don't worry about annealing them until you've got a load worked up start at min powder load of 31.6 of benchmark 2 from the ADI loading manual with 55gr flat base I found both rem and sako rifles of ours like flat base projectiles only making 1'' with boat tails both rifles like minimum jump ie I mark the dummy bullet projectile with black marker and chamber it keep marking and chambering until there is no mark on the projectile from the lands then measure the bullet from base to the Ogive and that is your length then start loading at that length I go up in 2gr increments till I get close to what I want then test it either side of the load if you change powder do likewise till you get what you want or the best of all then play with seating depth I found the Rem 91/2 primers best in all my 22-250's and b/m2 they like very little jump from 55gr projo down but go to heavier they like a little jump I run winchester , Rem brass and a few others I can't remember at the moment providing they are shot from the same rifle and trimmed right then they don't make any seeable difference with the low load I use I neck about 6 times then anneal and size if they need it if you think the stock is jumping around the barrel get some butchers twine cradle the barrel then slide it right up to the tang to lift the barrel from the stock bit like putting a finger between your toes if one strand is not enough then twist a couple of lengths together to make it tighter this is only a thing to do to test the load finding you'll have to float the barrel if the string makes a difference we used a strip of red hide under the 303-25 barrel to get it shooting anyway if any of this is clear to you then it will make sense to you with the low loads in my rifles and my sons we still get between 3414fps to 3506fps so not slow by any means unless you're chasing speed but I found I could speed them up for less accuracy and use more powder for bugga all extra speed