Honest Opinions Sako 85 .308

[Am88]

Wanting a new .308, want something that I’m going to keep, something Ill want to hand down to my young bloke one day. I’ve got my eye on an 85 that I have been playing with, I know it’s a big debate between 75 and 85, but there is one thing that the 85 has over the 75 for me, and that is that I can top load the magazine. Has anyone had any issues with a Sako 85? I see some people have had intermittent accuracy issues before? Trigger issues? Feeding issues? Anything, I would like total honesty.

Cheers

[Stix]

Well...
Ive got a couple...
A 22-250--which is the same size as the 308, & the biggest thing that gives me the irrets is this...
Its a Varmint rig (heavy barreled jobby), & ive put a Leo LR scope on it...
Well it slams the bloody cases into the windage turret & sends them everywhere except for into my hand...
Personally, unless im missing a specific reason for them doing this, i think its a ridiculous thing for a modern day varmint rifle outfit to launch the case out so bloody high...
Ive been told its a simple fix with the extractor, but i dont have enough time to shoot let alone do smithing jobs...

Maybe this thread is one for someone with advice on this...

My other one which is new, is a extra short action...
I am having some feed issues with it, but havnt looked closely at it yet as ive been shooting groups.
It does seem to jam a case, & then you naturally rack the bolt back & pick up another case...
Im not used to how short the throw is, & so this has happened to me 4 times now...one of those times i somehow had 2 live rounds stuck so tight you'd swear they were hammered in there, the bloody bolt wouldnt budge & mag refused to deploy, yet id hardly touched the bolt... ...i was pretty pissed at that moment..
Its a PITA especially because its very hard to single feed the 204 in my Tikka & Sako...

I also cannot remove a full mag with bolt closed....not sure if this is normal... ...& i dont recall if i have the same prob with the 308 sized action.

The triggers are good...
Although i have one which is set trigger, & with the spring wound back to the lighter end, the set trigger is not crisp--it almost feels like it rolls over the edge instead of a crisp break.
I do need to put a little more tension back on the spring, or maybe try a lighter spring--although the importer has warned against this...

The bolts seem to have a LOT of slop in the action, & they appear to torque sideways when cocked & locked up for a shot...but then the sloppiest one i have--in 204--so far has mostly printed 3 shots touching...
At the end of the day thats the most important thing.

Apart from those grizzles, of which hopefully ill get sorted, i think they're a fine looking rifle...
And provided the wind keeps down tomorrow, ill get to play with one & test one of the most ridiculously expensive bullets available...

Oh...also...ive found the rear action screw has loosened by itself on my smaller one...
Not sure why this happened--hopefully i dont have to strap a torque wrench to the ammo box every time i take it out...

I sound like im bagging them...but that is my honest experience with them so far...
These rifles are pretty much new so this is all teething problems (i hope).

But i should add, i still get a pert stiffy & find myself muttering 'oh yyeea baby' every time i take one out the safe & put it in the car...
Im like an excited dog knowing its going for a walk when i know im going shooting one of my Sako's...


I doubt you'll be disappointed...& its far from the worst heirloom a Dad can pass to his Lad...

[Archie]

I own three Sakos, one of which is a 22 quad, the other two are 85's. Luckily I have had a very different experience from Stix's.

One is a varmint in 223, with a Swaro 4-12x (I forget the model). Stainless steel bull barrel w/ laminate stock. Action is smooth as butter with zero sloppiness. Trigger is crisp although a trifle heavier than I would prefer, been meaning to get it lightened, but its not a huge issue, its more that it would perform very slightly better if I did it. It's more than up for the task.

The other is a synthetic in 243, also with a (different) 4-12x swaro. In retrospect the wrong scope, should have dropped it down to a 3-10x but that's nothing to do with the rifle. Again, bolt/action is perfect - if anything almost too smooth, its not sloppy but I prefer when they don't slide so easily when I have the bolt open. Accuracy wise this thing is a laser - it's the first centrefire I ever bought and of the 6 I currently own it's easily the most accurate.

I am aware of the case-bouncing-off-the-scope issue although I personally have not had it happen, and I don't baby the action. But I can see how it could happen easily, if you happened to have the right set of circumstances with scope size and height. I have never had a feeding issue, I have two mags for each and they both work fine. One thing I would say is that Sako overplay the PR on the controlled-feed thing. It isn't a true Mauser style that grabs the cartridge and won't let go, but to be honest, it still works very well, and unless you are trying to shoot a charging rhino while you are upside-down I doubt it will make any difference.

For comparison I also own a browning, a kimber and a cz; Against them I would buy another Sako 85 without hesitation except for the cost. Although they are excellent rifles I'm not sure they are value for money - they aren't twice as good as my CZ, for example, and thats pretty much what you are paying. But if you are buying something you're handing down to the kids, whether it's value for money or not probably isn't the main consideration..

[Wapiti]

We've got two Sako 85s in 308, one is the stainless laminated hunter, the other is the wife's, a Carbonlight.

Both are used for walkabout hunting, they are not used for trying to shoot tiny groups at a range, but just as hunting rifles.

To me, my laminate job is a perfect hunting rifle. Why it's better than others I've had (as a user):

Pros:
Triggers is brilliant, I adjusted it easily to a crisp 2.5lb in less time than it took to get the small hex key out of the toolbox.
Magazine holds a full 5 rounds, is stainless steel, clips in when full without drama. Easy to load as it's true double stack, just press down and cartridges clip in. Not a cheaper plastic 3 round single stack insult.
Magazine cannot, ever, fall out in the bush.
You can top load the mag when it's in the rifle, as easily, or easier I reckon, than a hinge-floorplate rifle. Especially a model that has a 30-06 length action with a block in it for shorter cartridges. People who've experienced this will know what I mean, no tipped up or down jammed cartridge pop-up in an 85.
Semi-controlled round feeding: push a cartridge into the chamber (without closing the bolt) and you can withdraw the bolt and the round comes out as the rim slides under the extractor as it clears the magazine.
Action scaled for the cartridge, not some giant action blocked down, thankfully without a moulded magazine that won't allow you to seat the projectiles out a bit.
Accuracy, I get easy 3/4 MOA from my handloads in the laminate hunter, and the Carbonlight shoots MOA with factory Winchester Woodleigh 130 grain, or 150 bonded protected point ammo.
The Carbonlight is insanely light and comes up like it's part of you, would be at home in any mountain in the world and the carbon fibre stock has had a few drops and you cannot see a mark. The unpainted pattern is sexy too. I want one in 300 Win Mag for here and NZ.

Both ours have VX3i 3.5-10x40 scopes on them, as physically large as I can stand on a carry rifle, and more magnification than needed to shoot out as far in the field as you can actually hold.

Cons:
If you're a group shooter, go slow in the Carbonlight, it's thin and fluted barrel heats up hot fast, however ours does not seem to walk it's POA as it heats up.
Sako mounts are fiddly and expensive, I have them on my 85 223 Varmint, but after using the brilliant, light, one piece, simple Leupold Sako mounts I got, I cannot recommend the Sako ones. The Leupold ones are steel too as they should be.
Mediums will easily clear a 40mm objective scope, even on a varmint barrel, lows will perfectly fit a VX3i 2.5-8x36 which woukd be a better lighter hunting scope.
Price: People will say, why not a Tikka, same barrel maker, but put the two next to one another and if the price doesn't bother you, you wouldn't buy the Tikka. See pros above for the differences, but try and be subjective.
Both side by side on the countertop and you will see what I mean.

When my wife saw the Carbonlight at the Brisbane Shot Show, she wanted it. Over everything else we looked at, even Blasers. Thank Christ.

This is not a shot at Tikkas, or anything else. Just a genuine attempt at an honest opinion to the question , from people who have them, and why we do. Hope it helps.

[Wapiti]

Oh, and by the way, all 3 of my 85s eject live rounds, and spent cases, without them touching the scopes and hitting anything.
And I've got the lowest possible mounts I could get.
Maybe it's got something to do with the scope body being lumpy where the adjustment turrets are and/or where they are mounted?
Ours are where eye relief is best, and the Leupolds have streamlined adjustment turret bodies which roughly sit central above the ejection port.
I just tried an empty case in my Sako and it doesn't flick out anywhere near the scope.

[Am88]

Had a Tikka T3 already, sold it on, didn't like the drop out magazine, same dislike I have about my Lithgow, not a group shooter, this will be dedicated hunting rifle other then load development, I'm pretty realistic when it comes to accuracy, not going to expect 1/4" groups at 100m from it, probably is possible but not needed for what I'm going to use it for. the other thing I dislike about my lithgow and the tikka was the same, was the action length, most scopes these days have a short eye relief, the scope I have for it will be 90mm eye relief, I could not get it to work on my Lithgow nor my tikka before I sold it. different action lengths are awesome. good to here most things I like so far.

[Blr243]

Stix what's r i diculous expensive bullet avail ??

[Stix]

20 cal 39gr SBK...
Sierra Blitzking...
Retailing now for up to 65c each...

Thats a big bit of cents for a teeny bit of soft ferrous metal...

[SCJ429]

I don't mean to be picky but there ain't no ferrous metal in any Blitzkings. Only base metals, copper and lead.

[Blr243]

I bought a fifty pack of Barnes the other day. 1.6 dollars per pill. Can’t be doin that all the time .... I always been envious of the 223 reloader who can buy bulk so cheap in Australia But I can see why a fox shooter would go to a 204 ruger for the speeds and flat traj

[Die Judicii]

Wanting a new .308, want something that I’m going to keep, something Ill want to hand down to my young bloke one day. I’ve got my eye on an 85 that I have been playing with, I know it’s a big debate between 75 and 85, but there is one thing that the 85 has over the 75 for me, and that is that I can top load the magazine. Has anyone had any issues with a Sako 85? I see some people have had intermittent accuracy issues before? Trigger issues? Feeding issues? Anything, I would like total honesty.

Cheers

I have a Sako 75 Hunter in .308 and love it to bits.
I honestly don't know what your about re being able to "top load the 85" but apparently not the 75.

I top load my 75 more often than not, without any problem.
In the dark, if I've dropped a pig,,, it's easier just to slip a single round back in from above so the mag is full and ready to go for the next lot,
rather than taking the mag out and doing it that way.

I also have an 85 Grizzly and it's definitely a beautiful machine without issues.
The one thing I didn't like about the 85 base model was that the bolt was a rattly loose fit,,,, but not so in the Grizzly.

If you want something as a keeper, and to hand down through the family, the Grizzly is an excellent choice.
Same goes for the 75,, IF you can find one in really good condition.

I have high mounts to cater for the fitment of the thermal, and ejected cases hitting my scopes is not an issue.

[Am88]

I have a Sako 75 Hunter in .308 and love it to bits.
I honestly don't know what your about re being able to "top load the 85" but apparently not the 75.

I top load my 75 more often than not, without any problem.
In the dark, if I've dropped a pig,,, it's easier just to slip a single round back in from above so the mag is full and ready to go for the next lot,
rather than taking the mag out and doing it that way.

I also have an 85 Grizzly and it's definitely a beautiful machine without issues.
The one thing I didn't like about the 85 base model was that the bolt was a rattly loose fit,,,, but not so in the Grizzly.

If you want something as a keeper, and to hand down through the family, the Grizzly is an excellent choice.
Same goes for the 75,, IF you can find one in really good condition.

I have high mounts to cater for the fitment of the thermal, and ejected cases hitting my scopes is not an issue.

Hey mate. I've never played with a 75 so wouldn't know but it was just something I read somewhere. Something about the ejection port being smaller. All good however as I went to my gun shop yesterday and he clarified that yes you can top the 75. I played with a few different types yesterday, they did not have a Grizzly in stock but I did see them on the website. One of my mates has a black bear he uses for sambar in .30-06 and rates it highly. Does anyone know if there is a difference between the Classic and the Hunter stock shape? One I was fondeling yesterday was a hunter. Shame it was .30-06 or could have done a like for like on the spot as it has beautiful timber.

[Die Judicii]

No worries Mate,, some do have nice timber,,, this is the stock on my Grizzly.

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100_4611.JPG (533.49 KiB) Viewed 12947 times

One I was fondeling yesterday was a hunter. Shame it was .30-06 or could have done a like for like on the spot as it has beautiful timber.

[Stix]

I don't mean to be picky but there ain't no ferrous metal in any Blitzkings. Only base metals, copper and lead.

I had to read your post a few times & thought you mustn't be reading mine right...
So i went back & read mine...
Lol.... ...

So if you dont want to be picky, why are you being picky...?...


The non went missing...just ran off the screen... ...

Nah...i remember typed it twice & checked spelling on google..(im not a good speller'er). highlighted the first wrongly dpelt one & hit 'cut'...
Must've cut the non as well...

[SCJ429]

Sorry Mate, but I sat in classrooms for years studying elements and minerals. My OCD made me do it.

I have a couple of Sakos and there is not much to dislike except the price. I am not a fan of the tapered bases either.

[Stix]

So what method do you use to mount glass with scj...?
And what torque you run on the action screws...?


Im not happy with the latest set of Sako bases i got...the base of them is poorly machined for the price...i need to get it checked out as im sure its no good for the purposes...

Ill post up a pic if i can find one...

[Stix]

Here we are...found the pics quicker than i thought...

Sako XS bases

2020-01-26 13.00.33.jpg (192.36 KiB) Viewed 12916 times

[Blr243]

This is a question rather than a statement. , I’m not sure how the rest of the bases attachments whatever are supposed to align with the pictured item. Is it possible that the centre is slightly dished on purpose so the outer flat circumference fits flatter against whatever it’s sposed to touch ? So there’s no rockin ?

[Stix]

Sorry BLR...its a little decieving in the pic...
The centre is raised, not dished...thats the issue...

That section is the bottom of the ring that sits hard up to the top surface of the base...
Its done up tight & only a 20 cal so i doubt its moving..., but still...

[Blr243]

Can u post a better pic of the other bits but only if u have time. I’m on holidays But i know others might be busy

[SCJ429]

So what method do you use to mount glass with scj...?
And what torque you run on the action screws...?


Im not happy with the latest set of Sako bases i got...the base of them is poorly machined for the price...i need to get it checked out as im sure its no good for the purposes...

Ill post up a pic if i can find one...

They do make a pic rail to go over the mounts but I thought it would mount the scope too high, so I went with optilocks. I now think I should get the pic rail.

I just nip up my action screws but use thread locker, Loctite 222.

[Am88]

I haven't had the 2 pieces bases. Have seen quite a few people do not like them. I have the one piece bases and they were really nice and I think look much better.

[brinny]

Im running a Sako 85 Finnlight in 308 for the deer....Have nothing but good reviews with it....
I have smacked down quite a few sambar to date with it....
My mate was that impressed with mine he bought the 85 Finnlight 2 in 270..(Always been his choice of cal)....
You will go a long way to get a better rifle....

[Am88]

Good to hear mate, I’ve made my mind up to get the hunter in stainless, will also get it pillar and glas bedded, I’m going to travel with this gun, got the case ready to already. I’ve tee’d up a few trips already for next year, it will go anywhere from the NT in summer, or down to Victoria in winter and spring for sambar. Can’t wait to do a proper Sambar hunt with my mates down there.

Cheers

[solarpak]

I have personally owned three 85's - a 223, 243 and 270. I still have the 270 but have sold off the 223 and 243.

All excellent rifles - with the exception of the dreaded extraction issue on the 223. The 243 and 270 extract fired shells without any problem but the 223 was problematic.
I also owned two sako A7's which both had the extraction issues.

From what have gleaned about this issue it seems the extractor doesn't hold the case tightly against the bolt-face - and this causes the cases to hit the underside of the mounted scope and fall back into the chamber opening.

Would i buy another 85 ........not really.........but having said that the 243 i owned and the 270 i still have were mighty fine rifles.
C.

[Stix]

I have personally owned three 85's - a 223, 243 and 270. I still have the 270 but have sold off the 223 and 243.

All excellent rifles - with the exception of the dreaded extraction issue on the 223. The 243 and 270 extract fired shells without any problem but the 223 was problematic.
I also owned two sako A7's which both had the extraction issues.

From what have gleaned about this issue it seems the extractor doesn't hold the case tightly against the bolt-face - and this causes the cases to hit the underside of the mounted scope and fall back into the chamber opening.

Would i buy another 85 ........not really.........but having said that the 243 i owned and the 270 i still have were mighty fine rifles.
C.

Have you heard of, or know of a fix for this Solarpak...?

I have these issues with both of mine...if i muscle the bolt for extraction it hits scope...if i give anything less than brute force, the empty can end up anywhere from way out infront of the rifle, in my hand or laying backwards sitting in the open action...very annoying when shooting groups OR fur & wanting to keep brass...!!

[pedro4977]

I have a sako L461 and the Leopold steel mounts and rings are the best, even better than the old hillver bridge mounts. The dovetail system seems to work well in my experience. My old girl is in .222 rem mag, and wearing a Leopoldo vx3 4-14 varmint with a 26" tobler. Shot a verified .27" group at 100m on the range off a bipod and rear bag. I have an even older rougher sako in .25-06 that regularly shoots.6" with cheap projectiles. Bed it, float it, shoot out the factory barrel and get a maddco or tobler and tune up with hand loads and you can make a semi custom rifle about the same as buying a new 85. Just put on a good stock, make sure its bedded correctly and you have a rifle that you'd be proud to hand down, just like mine was handed down to me from my Dad.

[solarpak]

The only fix would be to get a gunsmith to fabricate a new claw extractor - and that should fix the problem. I didn't do this with my 223 (sold it off due to sheer annoyance) but my 243 and 270 seemed to be ok and didn't need any work.
Replacing the claw extractor is the only solution i have heard of that works - and find a good gunsmith to carry out the work

C