223 vs 22-250 for roos

[bigrich]

In regards to the OP's original Question. No need for a different rifle, just target them @ night.
One of the culls i recently did, couldn't get within 500m during the day. But under spot light i managed on average 250 dead a night.
I'll also add that im only shooting a .222

Yeah, go the 222 !

[marksman]

In regards to the OP's original Question. No need for a different rifle, just target them @ night.
One of the culls i recently did, couldn't get within 500m during the day. But under spot light i managed on average 250 dead a night.
I'll also add that im only shooting a .222

Yes. Can't get near them at night. That's the dilemma.

IMHO I would go the 22-250 with a 1 in 8" twist and shoot them with 80gr bergers how ever far out it is
I know there is a recommendation of 200m but if you have to get them out of the paddock this would be very capable
it would mean rebarreling a doner as the 22-250 usually comes in 1 in 14" twist

I would also recommend a 22 dasher with a 1 in 8" twist although I dont think you really want to go down that path
the 250 with a faster twist and heavier pills will do the job out very very far, like a laser
barrel life is not that bad and it would only be used when you needed the legs, keep your 223 for the 200m

[Mark]

In regards to the OP's original Question. No need for a different rifle, just target them @ night.
One of the culls i recently did, couldn't get within 500m during the day. But under spot light i managed on average 250 dead a night.
I'll also add that im only shooting a .222

Yeah, go the 222 !

Did you read what i said ? i'm not suggesting a .222

[bigfellascott]

In regards to the OP's original Question. No need for a different rifle, just target them @ night.
One of the culls i recently did, couldn't get within 500m during the day. But under spot light i managed on average 250 dead a night.posting.php?mode=quote&f=2&p=203249#
I'll also add that im only shooting a .222

Yeah, go the 222 !

Did you read what i said ? i'm not suggesting a .222

BR like's the 222 mate that's what he's talkin about.

[bigrich]

In regards to the OP's original Question. No need for a different rifle, just target them @ night.
One of the culls i recently did, couldn't get within 500m during the day. But under spot light i managed on average 250 dead a night.posting.php?mode=quote&f=2&p=203249#
I'll also add that im only shooting a .222

Yeah, go the 222 !

Did you read what i said ? i'm not suggesting a .222

BR like's the 222 mate that's what he's talkin about.

exactly BFS . i like a lot of the classic calibers . 222 probably isn't as efficent as a 22/250 with regards to reach or downrange energy. but it's the most wonderfully least fussy to load for, accurate round i've come across . if 200 metres is the limit for head shots on roos it's doable with a 222

[bigfellascott]

In regards to the OP's original Question. No need for a different rifle, just target them @ night.
One of the culls i recently did, couldn't get within 500m during the day. But under spot light i managed on average 250 dead a night.posting.php?mode=quote&f=2&p=203249#
I'll also add that im only shooting a .222

Yeah, go the 222 !

Did you read what i said ? i'm not suggesting a .222

BR like's the 222 mate that's what he's talkin about.

exactly BFS . i like a lot of the classic calibers . 222 probably isn't as efficent as a 22/250 with regards to reach or downrange energy. but it's the most wonderfully least fussy to load for, accurate round i've come across . if 200 metres is the limit for head shots on roos it's doable with a 222

Yep it's a ripper little cal alright, I have a 223 and don't use it at all, I do use my 222 though mild on the ears and just a pleasure to use - long live the Deuce I say.

[Mark]

Lol i'm a bit defensive about .222 when ya rock up to a farm & old mate says i have 3000 rounds of brand X.
The .222 rem is one of only a few that will just shoot regardless !

[bigfellascott]

Lol i'm a bit defensive about .222 when ya rock up to a farm & old mate says i have 3000 rounds of brand X.
The .222 rem is one of only a few that will just shoot regardless !

Hard to beat the 222 for a general purpose cal on the varmints. My CMC Mountaineer was the first CF in 222 and I still have it and use it often, it just shoots without fuss year in and year out. Sorted out many roos and foxes and all manner of other ferals with it over the years.

[Roo farmer]

Are you looking for a magic outfit Roo Farmer...?

Yes! That's what I am looking for. Not asking much, am I? Haha.

Sorry i cant answer your questions...all i can suggest is what i did before...prioritise the end result & make a decision based on that...
If money is the biggest factor, 223...
If money is the least of worries...243...
For a compromise not so great in the wind go 204...(assuming youre not commercial)
Or...
For a compromise thats a little better in the wind, 22-250...

Yes, thankyou for the suggestions, and to everyone else that has offered suggestions. (Assume that I am commercial, because I am)

Or if you have time & money to invest, get onto Marksman for tips & advice on one of those fancy custom chambered Flashy Dasher's...id like to try that one on for size...

Not much money and not much time either unfortunately!

[Roo farmer]

IF... and I mean IF... You are a decent shot, 1MOA or better then you will never need anything more than a .223R to shot a Roo. Hopefully you can do it with 100% head shots up to the legal limit of 200m. If you can't then go back and learn how to shoot.

Yes, I need to learn how to shoot. Which is why I started this thread - viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10683

I got some useful tips, but it's something that I still struggle with. If you have any tips or would like to come and teach me, feel free!

[Bill]

I know this is slightly off topic.. As a general discussion, do you think the head shot rule is a bit stupid?

if you cant shoot a roo in the head out to 250m then you need to be questioning your choice of job. 6mm 250 or 6mm creedmoor a better option that 22-250 which will scare everything into a steady hop

[Bill]

In regards to the OP's original Question. No need for a different rifle, just target them @ night.
One of the culls i recently did, couldn't get within 500m during the day. But under spot light i managed on average 250 dead a night.
I'll also add that im only shooting a .222

Yes. Can't get near them at night. That's the dilemma.

IMHO I would go the 22-250 with a 1 in 8" twist and shoot them with 80gr bergers how ever far out it is
I know there is a recommendation of 200m but if you have to get them out of the paddock this would be very capable
it would mean rebarreling a doner as the 22-250 usually comes in 1 in 14" twist

I would also recommend a 22 dasher with a 1 in 8" twist although I dont think you really want to go down that path
the 250 with a faster twist and heavier pills will do the job out very very far, like a laser
barrel life is not that bad and it would only be used when you needed the legs, keep your 223 for the 200m

fast twist barrels and roo's is a disaster mate, spin rate and the rotational devastation mean punters will be chewing lead or copper, actually they wont be because the carcass will be reject and youve just f***ed a 1/4 of your load for the nite

[bigrich]

the common thing that seems to run in a lot of posts on this subject is getting within range or having a rifle with a usable range . 223 does have accuracy and a bit more reach than my favorite 222 ,without the muzzle blast of the 250. i realise it's not a cheap way to do it, but a 243 shooting 75 - 85 grain projectile would have a flat trajectory and better reach and down range energy, would it not ? i'm no proffessional , and am not likely to be. but i can shoot good tight groups off a rest with my handloads. i've been asked to help thin out grasshoppers a bit to help out a landholder (legally of coarse ) , and given my choice between 222 and 243, i'm starting to think the 243 might be the better option for distance . any opinions on this ?

[SCJ429]

I know a guy who is contracted for culling and he uses a 6mm BR with a 1:8 twist. While it is particularly devistating to the head he has no problems with damage to the carcass. I also use a 6mm BR and a 22/250 and would be hard pressed to spot the difference with head shots.

[Bill]

6mm is better long range option than finicky 22-250s, which are not only louder, but foul quicker and chew barrels quicker.

[TassieTiger]

Did someone say 260 ? Roflmao

[Bill]

lol can you get cheaper 260 rem ammo .... NOPE

[marksman]

In regards to the OP's original Question. No need for a different rifle, just target them @ night.
One of the culls i recently did, couldn't get within 500m during the day. But under spot light i managed on average 250 dead a night.
I'll also add that im only shooting a .222

Yes. Can't get near them at night. That's the dilemma.

IMHO I would go the 22-250 with a 1 in 8" twist and shoot them with 80gr bergers how ever far out it is
I know there is a recommendation of 200m but if you have to get them out of the paddock this would be very capable
it would mean rebarreling a doner as the 22-250 usually comes in 1 in 14" twist

I would also recommend a 22 dasher with a 1 in 8" twist although I dont think you really want to go down that path
the 250 with a faster twist and heavier pills will do the job out very very far, like a laser
barrel life is not that bad and it would only be used when you needed the legs, keep your 223 for the 200m

fast twist barrels and roo's is a disaster mate, spin rate and the rotational devastation mean punters will be chewing lead or copper, actually they wont be because the carcass will be reject and youve just f***ed a 1/4 of your load for the nite

na Bill I have been head shooting rabbits with my 22 dasher 1 in 8" and 80 grain bergers and eating them with no bullet fragments at all
scary accurate and a hell of a lot of fun, when this barrel does burn out I will be putting another straight back on
I will be testing it on roos with tags when the paddocks dry up a bit way better rifle than my 222

[Stix]

the common thing that seems to run in a lot of posts on this subject is getting within range or having a rifle with a usable range . 223 does have accuracy and a bit more reach than my favorite 222 ,without the muzzle blast of the 250. i realise it's not a cheap way to do it, but a 243 shooting 75 - 85 grain projectile would have a flat trajectory and better reach and down range energy, would it not ? i'm no proffessional , and am not likely to be. but i can shoot good tight groups off a rest with my handloads. i've been asked to help thin out grasshoppers a bit to help out a landholder (legally of coarse ) , and given my choice between 222 and 243, i'm starting to think the 243 might be the better option for distance . any opinions on this ?

Mate, as you know shooting groups off a bench & real life hunting are 2 very diff things...just start with the 222, and know your hold over out to what ever range you can shoot them too, & have the 243 on the back seat.
The 243 is a bit too loud for a roo gun, but you could use it if youre not comfortable with the 222, &/or on the longer range ones when the wind blows up a bit.
If youre going to be shooting in the wind, know what your wind reading limits are too...

Id suggest just smack a good few at normal modest ranges with the 222 (maybe out to 130-140...or stay at 100-120 max if you prefer) and that will give you some confidence...try putting the bullet in their brains rather than just aiming for centre of head mass...& remember to stay within your known range ability.
I rekon a good shooter is someone who knows their ability & has the kahoonas to not take a shot if he is iffy about it--irrelevant of whether thats 80 metres or 280 metres --from a shooters perspective, "having a crack" at a 220 metre shot & fluking a hit is just as bad a shooting as blowing the snout off one & having it get away ...so if you havnt shot roo's head sized targets & landed most or all shots in a couple of inches-ish on paper at 200, dont try it in the field--remember your groups off a bench will be bigger in real life in the field...

If you have a range finder, carry that with you & range as many as you can to get a feel it...& also range the ones that youre not sure of...

Roos heads are pretty big target, but they vary quite a lot in size (young to big buck) so depending on the lay of the land & your perspective, sometimes under a light a big roo's head at 180 can look like a small to medium one at 80, & visa versa...thats where knowing the land &/or having a rangefinder at hand can be really effective tools...

So go with your 222 mate with 243 as back-up, i rekon you & that rifle are plenty capable of good brain shots on roos, its just a matter of getting a feel for the field conditions & work up to the 200 metre shots as you're comfortable...

[Bill]

I know a guy who is contracted for culling and he uses a 6mm BR with a 1:8 twist. While it is particularly devistating to the head he has no problems with damage to the carcass. I also use a 6mm BR and a 22/250 and would be hard pressed to spot the difference with head shots.

sorry SC429 I should have clarified the fast twist 22s can be a good thing with the heavier slow pills, when you throw faster lighter 55gr pills down range their performance can be some what erratic. A mate had his 223 rebarreled to a fast twist cause thats all the gunsmith had at the time, turned out to be a costly mistake as too many deer and roo's got down graded from schrapnel damage down thru the neck.

[bigrich]

the common thing that seems to run in a lot of posts on this subject is getting within range or having a rifle with a usable range . 223 does have accuracy and a bit more reach than my favorite 222 ,without the muzzle blast of the 250. i realise it's not a cheap way to do it, but a 243 shooting 75 - 85 grain projectile would have a flat trajectory and better reach and down range energy, would it not ? i'm no proffessional , and am not likely to be. but i can shoot good tight groups off a rest with my handloads. i've been asked to help thin out grasshoppers a bit to help out a landholder (legally of coarse ) , and given my choice between 222 and 243, i'm starting to think the 243 might be the better option for distance . any opinions on this ?

Mate, as you know shooting groups off a bench & real life hunting are 2 very diff things...just start with the 222, and know your hold over out to what ever range you can shoot them too, & have the 243 on the back seat.
The 243 is a bit too loud for a roo gun, but you could use it if youre not comfortable with the 222, &/or on the longer range ones when the wind blows up a bit.
If youre going to be shooting in the wind, know what your wind reading limits are too...

Id suggest just smack a good few at normal modest ranges with the 222 (maybe out to 130-140...or stay at 100-120 max if you prefer) and that will give you some confidence...try putting the bullet in their brains rather than just aiming for centre of head mass...& remember to stay within your known range ability.
I rekon a good shooter is someone who knows their ability & has the kahoonas to not take a shot if he is iffy about it--irrelevant of whether thats 80 metres or 280 metres --from a shooters perspective, "having a crack" at a 220 metre shot & fluking a hit is just as bad a shooting as blowing the snout off one & having it get away ...so if you havnt shot roo's head sized targets & landed most or all shots in a couple of inches-ish on paper at 200, dont try it in the field--remember your groups off a bench will be bigger in real life in the field...

If you have a range finder, carry that with you & range as many as you can to get a feel it...& also range the ones that youre not sure of...

Roos heads are pretty big target, but they vary quite a lot in size (young to big buck) so depending on the lay of the land & your perspective, sometimes under a light a big roo's head at 180 can look like a small to medium one at 80, & visa versa...thats where knowing the land &/or having a rangefinder at hand can be really effective tools...

So go with your 222 mate with 243 as back-up, i rekon you & that rifle are plenty capable of good brain shots on roos, its just a matter of getting a feel for the field conditions & work up to the 200 metre shots as you're comfortable...

thanks for the advice stix , i'm a cautious person by nature , so rest assured i won't be trying anything outside of my skill set i'm gunna ease into this grasshopper thinning job . i understand what your saying about the bench to the paddock being different things , i know my 6.5 well and have knocked goats at respectable ranges with that, so should transition to the 222 okay . like ya say , i'll start of comfortable with the 222 and increase range as i deem necessary . as you know from some of my previous posts mate , that 222 is a real shooter, the only thing that can let it down is the nut on the trigger

[Stix]

the common thing that seems to run in a lot of posts on this subject is getting within range or having a rifle with a usable range . 223 does have accuracy and a bit more reach than my favorite 222 ,without the muzzle blast of the 250. i realise it's not a cheap way to do it, but a 243 shooting 75 - 85 grain projectile would have a flat trajectory and better reach and down range energy, would it not ? i'm no proffessional , and am not likely to be. but i can shoot good tight groups off a rest with my handloads. i've been asked to help thin out grasshoppers a bit to help out a landholder (legally of coarse ) , and given my choice between 222 and 243, i'm starting to think the 243 might be the better option for distance . any opinions on this ?

Mate, as you know shooting groups off a bench & real life hunting are 2 very diff things...just start with the 222, and know your hold over out to what ever range you can shoot them too, & have the 243 on the back seat.
The 243 is a bit too loud for a roo gun, but you could use it if youre not comfortable with the 222, &/or on the longer range ones when the wind blows up a bit.
If youre going to be shooting in the wind, know what your wind reading limits are too...

Id suggest just smack a good few at normal modest ranges with the 222 (maybe out to 130-140...or stay at 100-120 max if you prefer) and that will give you some confidence...try putting the bullet in their brains rather than just aiming for centre of head mass...& remember to stay within your known range ability.
I rekon a good shooter is someone who knows their ability & has the kahoonas to not take a shot if he is iffy about it--irrelevant of whether thats 80 metres or 280 metres --from a shooters perspective, "having a crack" at a 220 metre shot & fluking a hit is just as bad a shooting as blowing the snout off one & having it get away ...so if you havnt shot roo's head sized targets & landed most or all shots in a couple of inches-ish on paper at 200, dont try it in the field--remember your groups off a bench will be bigger in real life in the field...

If you have a range finder, carry that with you & range as many as you can to get a feel it...& also range the ones that youre not sure of...

Roos heads are pretty big target, but they vary quite a lot in size (young to big buck) so depending on the lay of the land & your perspective, sometimes under a light a big roo's head at 180 can look like a small to medium one at 80, & visa versa...thats where knowing the land &/or having a rangefinder at hand can be really effective tools...

So go with your 222 mate with 243 as back-up, i rekon you & that rifle are plenty capable of good brain shots on roos, its just a matter of getting a feel for the field conditions & work up to the 200 metre shots as you're comfortable...

thanks for the advice stix , i'm a cautious person by nature , so rest assured i won't be trying anything outside of my skill set i'm gunna ease into this grasshopper thinning job . i understand what your saying about the bench to the paddock being different things , i know my 6.5 well and have knocked goats at respectable ranges with that, so should transition to the 222 okay . like ya say , i'll start of comfortable with the 222 and increase range as i deem necessary . as you know from some of my previous posts mate , that 222 is a real shooter, the only thing that can let it down is the nut on the trigger

Follow that bullet into the brain & you & that 222 will be a force to be reckoned with when it comes to roos...

Personally, 150-200 i prefer over the bonnet to be sure...so if there is a group of them & many sit or dont go too far after the first, ill hop out & go over the bonnet to save moving the car...

[bigfellascott]

the common thing that seems to run in a lot of posts on this subject is getting within range or having a rifle with a usable range . 223 does have accuracy and a bit more reach than my favorite 222 ,without the muzzle blast of the 250. i realise it's not a cheap way to do it, but a 243 shooting 75 - 85 grain projectile would have a flat trajectory and better reach and down range energy, would it not ? i'm no proffessional , and am not likely to be. but i can shoot good tight groups off a rest with my handloads. i've been asked to help thin out grasshoppers a bit to help out a landholder (legally of coarse ) , and given my choice between 222 and 243, i'm starting to think the 243 might be the better option for distance . any opinions on this ?

Mate, as you know shooting groups off a bench & real life hunting are 2 very diff things...just start with the 222, and know your hold over out to what ever range you can shoot them too, & have the 243 on the back seat.
The 243 is a bit too loud for a roo gun, but you could use it if youre not comfortable with the 222, &/or on the longer range ones when the wind blows up a bit.
If youre going to be shooting in the wind, know what your wind reading limits are too...

Id suggest just smack a good few at normal modest ranges with the 222 (maybe out to 130-140...or stay at 100-120 max if you prefer) and that will give you some confidence...try putting the bullet in their brains rather than just aiming for centre of head mass...& remember to stay within your known range ability.
I rekon a good shooter is someone who knows their ability & has the kahoonas to not take a shot if he is iffy about it--irrelevant of whether thats 80 metres or 280 metres --from a shooters perspective, "having a crack" at a 220 metre shot & fluking a hit is just as bad a shooting as blowing the snout off one & having it get away ...so if you havnt shot roo's head sized targets & landed most or all shots in a couple of inches-ish on paper at 200, dont try it in the field--remember your groups off a bench will be bigger in real life in the field...

If you have a range finder, carry that with you & range as many as you can to get a feel it...& also range the ones that youre not sure of...

Roos heads are pretty big target, but they vary quite a lot in size (young to big buck) so depending on the lay of the land & your perspective, sometimes under a light a big roo's head at 180 can look like a small to medium one at 80, & visa versa...thats where knowing the land &/or having a rangefinder at hand can be really effective tools...

So go with your 222 mate with 243 as back-up, i rekon you & that rifle are plenty capable of good brain shots on roos, its just a matter of getting a feel for the field conditions & work up to the 200 metre shots as you're comfortable...

thanks for the advice stix , i'm a cautious person by nature , so rest assured i won't be trying anything outside of my skill set i'm gunna ease into this grasshopper thinning job . i understand what your saying about the bench to the paddock being different things , i know my 6.5 well and have knocked goats at respectable ranges with that, so should transition to the 222 okay . like ya say , i'll start of comfortable with the 222 and increase range as i deem necessary . as you know from some of my previous posts mate , that 222 is a real shooter, the only thing that can let it down is the nut on the trigger

Follow that bullet into the brain & you & that 222 will be a force to be reckoned with when it comes to roos...

Personally, 150-200 i prefer over the bonnet to be sure...so if there is a group of them & many sit or dont go too far after the first, ill hop out & go over the bonnet to save moving the car...

I do the same - I can’t get comfortable shooting out of the Ute anymore.

[TassieTiger]

A pro shooter I know of(a friend of a friend deal) carries several types of ammo for the one gun(223) and has a taped reference on his scope. He plugs cheap 55gns for most of his shots but if wind picks up he’ll change mags to 62’s...

[Stix]

I was doing a similar thing with my 22-250, but in order to try improve accuracy for longer shots, i got one of those Lee collet dies...and....WWOOAAAHHH...!!!!
Loaded 2/3rds of a batch (a bit of a test around both sides of the original load), just assuming it shouldn't be too far off the mark...( ),,,and the neck tension is so way high its gone from shooting inch groups to shotgun SG groups...and i annealed the brass too...!!

So im back to square one...have to learn how to use that die properly...after i pull the bulk of 2 batchs of loaded rounds...ffs...!!!
But i just dont have time...so theyve been sitting in a box for a while now...

This reloading caper is a fair dinkum pisser sometimes...!!!

[SCJ429]

Back the collet die right off Stix. It will feel like you are not sizing anything. Keep measuring the the neck until you are sizing it down with the tension you are looking for. Again it will feel like you are not doing any work. I am only looking for two thou difference but you may want more for a hunting load.

[marksman]

2 thou is what I aim for as well but understand Stix that if the rounds have sat for a while your bullets can cold weld with corrosion to the cases causing different neck tension that can change things dramatically and to prove it happens pull a bullet from a freshly made round then do it to a round that has sat for a month
sometimes when pulling bullets you need to bump them down before pulling and you will hear a crack when you do it, the bullet letting go
this may be the problem so before pulling all your rounds try seating a few bullets further into the neck and fire them to see if things change for the better
this is why if I am jumping I lightly crimp for a more consistent start pressure and if my bullet is touching I dont bother
I may be wrong Stix but its worth a try

[Stix]

Thanks guys...

I believe you about the welding bizo...These were loaded the night before i shot them marksman...so i doubt thats the issue...

Im sure its me--i had no idea what i was doing...followed the destructions & i nearly destructed it let me tell ya...!!

But ive since found previous posts youz have put up & read & watched some info...

Just need time to do it...
Im so pushed for time im having fish bloody fingers for dinner while ive got 2 fridges full of great game meat.(..ffs...)...

Good tip to push em down with the seater first...!!!...yep thats excellent...ill do em all before i pull em...

Thankfully its a cheap as rubbish bullet, so im not throwing much money away...then ill use em for fun trailboss loads when bunnies are back thick...

[Mark]

This is my setup Roo Farmer. All DIY its shooter specific, with no compromise like some of the factory made ones.

20170728_091706.jpg (1.15 MiB) Viewed 4446 times

[Roo farmer]

This is my setup Roo Farmer. All DIY its shooter specific, with no compromise like some of the factory made ones.

Looks like a good outfit. This is my rest. I have thought about extending it rearwards to offer a bit wider shot range, but I haven't really got any further than the thinking stage.

20190717_163326.jpg (2.06 MiB) Viewed 4379 times