Copper fouling - how bad ?

Bolt action rifles, lever action, pump action, self loading rifles and other miscellaneous longarms.

Copper fouling - how bad ?

Post by TassieTiger » 17 Feb 2020, 8:15 pm

I have a query for the brains trust...
Everything I thought I knew about copper fouling (which was %*#{ all really - has been turned on its head by a local, respected gun smith.

My sauer 06 is a fantastic rifle. Shoots 168gns at 3100fps amazingly well...I could not ask for better. BUT - the last 6-10 inches of rifling have bright shiny Cu streaks that I haven’t been able to move - regardless of solvent type. It does not affect the accuracy and after cleaning, it takes a couple shots to get the really tight accuracy back...

Turns out, I bumped into my local GS - a highly respected local and I asked him the question as to what I might do to remove the streaks.

His answer was - why? If it’s shooting well, then there is no bother in leaving it there, just clean as per normal, or risk damaging the accuracy I currently enjoy...

Umm...ok. I told him my understanding was that over time, copper might result in pitting...
He said barrels are individual and will tell you what they need by their accuracy...some work well with cu streaks and will never be problematic as a result, others can’t Work with any copper what so ever in their rifling...just very individual things...

So now I’m a wee bit confused. Have I just been educated or have I been fobbed?
Tikka .260 (Z5 5x25/52)
Steyr Pro Varmint .223 - VX 3
CZ455 .22 & Norinco .22 (vtex 4-12, bush 3-9)
ATA 686 U/O 12g & Baikal S/S 12g.
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Re: Copper fouling - how bad ?

Post by SCJ429 » 17 Feb 2020, 8:41 pm

It has to come out. Ballistol Robosol has instructions where you can put a stopper in the muzzle and fill it up with solvent. I have never done it.
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Re: Copper fouling - how bad ?

Post by TassieTiger » 17 Feb 2020, 9:05 pm

SCJ429 wrote:It has to come out. Ballistol Robosol has instructions where you can put a stopper in the muzzle and fill it up with solvent. I have never done it.


This gunsmith is known as one of Tassies best - 9 months wait list type / best....I’m worried RE his comments.

Is there a metallurgic reasoning behind the theory of removal? All my other rifles are easily cleaned of the streaks with known solvents...5-6 patches, deep but ever lightening blue...

Re the sauer - If I leave in sweets or KG - I get one or two very very light patches of blue and then nothing more and streaks haven’t changed. Is it maybe just getting the correct solvent per barrel ? Or can it stay as an oddity ? It already is a bit freaking odd...
Tikka .260 (Z5 5x25/52)
Steyr Pro Varmint .223 - VX 3
CZ455 .22 & Norinco .22 (vtex 4-12, bush 3-9)
ATA 686 U/O 12g & Baikal S/S 12g.
Adler a110 reddot
Sauer 30-06 - VX 3
Howa 300 win mag. SHV 5-20/56
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Re: Copper fouling - how bad ?

Post by SCJ429 » 17 Feb 2020, 9:50 pm

The copper is reducing the dimensions of your barrel and you are layering down copper with every shot. Accuracy will get worse over time. I would push a wet patch up the muzzle and add copper solvent, wait a while then give it a scrub. Then do it again until clean. I use Boretec which is pretty effective.

I cannot understand why you got that advice from your gunsmith. Write to John Gilles and ask him. If he agrees then fair enough but I cannot see it happening.
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Re: Copper fouling - how bad ?

Post by straightshooter » 18 Feb 2020, 7:09 am

If one looks at the 'Activity Series of Metals' one will note that copper and iron are some distance apart. The further apart metals are in the series the more reactive they are.
From personal experience of borescope examination of barrels that have had long term (years) of untreated copper fouling, with the bore otherwise preserved with oil, I have found that when the copper is finally removed then the area that was covered by copper invariably has an etched appearance. Where the copper was the thickest the etching is most pronounced.
This is not good.
This is also probably why successful benchrest competitors put so much effort into keeping their bore clean.
A gunsmith may be an excellent machinist and artisan but he might not know which direction his a$$ is pointing on other matters.To say nothing of lesser exponents of gunsmithing who are skilled at misdirecting blame for their lack of expertise.
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Re: Copper fouling - how bad ?

Post by marksman » 18 Feb 2020, 11:33 am

straight shooter is talking straight with you Tassie :thumbsup:

great to see you back here mate :drinks:

my advice would be to remove the copper and polish the area with some autosol on a tight patch, the copper the will be because of roughness, a burr ect...
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Re: Copper fouling - how bad ?

Post by TassieTiger » 18 Feb 2020, 1:11 pm

Okay - I’m going to get on this and hit it hard. I’ll try some additional solvents.

Thanks for the welcome MM. :drinks:
Tikka .260 (Z5 5x25/52)
Steyr Pro Varmint .223 - VX 3
CZ455 .22 & Norinco .22 (vtex 4-12, bush 3-9)
ATA 686 U/O 12g & Baikal S/S 12g.
Adler a110 reddot
Sauer 30-06 - VX 3
Howa 300 win mag. SHV 5-20/56
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Re: Copper fouling - how bad ?

Post by GQshayne » 18 Feb 2020, 7:20 pm

TassieTiger wrote:Okay - I’m going to get on this and hit it hard. I’ll try some additional solvents.

Thanks for the welcome MM. :drinks:


Make sure you introduce yourself in the New Members section. :sarcasm: :lol: :D

And for an example of how copper can be a problem in some rifles, have a look at my .17 Remington Project thread. I have never seen anything like what I experienced, but some rifles are easier to clean then others. There is quite a lot of info in my thread, as I had to research it a lot.

I think while your rifle shoots well now, the copper will continue to build up until it doesn't shoot well, and then you will have a task like I did to remove it. Best do it now I reckon.
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Re: Copper fouling - how bad ?

Post by TassieTiger » 19 Feb 2020, 12:31 pm

Cheers - reading it now.
Tikka .260 (Z5 5x25/52)
Steyr Pro Varmint .223 - VX 3
CZ455 .22 & Norinco .22 (vtex 4-12, bush 3-9)
ATA 686 U/O 12g & Baikal S/S 12g.
Adler a110 reddot
Sauer 30-06 - VX 3
Howa 300 win mag. SHV 5-20/56
Marlin SBL 45/70
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Re: Copper fouling - how bad ?

Post by TassieTiger » 19 Feb 2020, 6:35 pm

So now I’m confused and getting frustrated and likely to break something.
Since 1 o’clock today, I’ve used birch wood and Casey bore scrubber, sweets copper remover and hoppes copper remover. I’ve left some solvents in for over an hour via wet soaked patches, I’ve scrubbed wet nylon and wet brass, I’ve wet patched, dry patches - then scrubbed wet...then as a last resort - attacked from the muzzle end as well - concentrating on the last 3-5 inches, scrubbing in and out, 50-60-70 times...the copper does not look ANY different than when I started...wtf is going on. I’m seriously going to end up screwing this bore.

In contrast, the howa 1500 that had light streaks but similar, was 100% clean inside 10 minutes by...one dry patch, then one saturated wet patch, leave ten minutes, out came 3 blue patches that lighten off as they went...to nothing inside 8 patches.

The sauer? I must have 60 patches used. The rifle is not old and hadn’t shot more than 100 rounds.
I’m now thinking of taking to smith or shop - there is nothing I can do - maybe put a brush into a jigsaw or sawzall...
5 hours on this today....
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Tikka .260 (Z5 5x25/52)
Steyr Pro Varmint .223 - VX 3
CZ455 .22 & Norinco .22 (vtex 4-12, bush 3-9)
ATA 686 U/O 12g & Baikal S/S 12g.
Adler a110 reddot
Sauer 30-06 - VX 3
Howa 300 win mag. SHV 5-20/56
Marlin SBL 45/70
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Re: Copper fouling - how bad ?

Post by SCJ429 » 19 Feb 2020, 8:33 pm

Are you seeing copper carbonate, blue stuff, on your patches.?
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Re: Copper fouling - how bad ?

Post by marksman » 19 Feb 2020, 8:35 pm

she is behaving pretty badly Tassie, that copper is really heavy
recently l put up a post about using tubbs final finish for a rifle that was copper fouling very badly
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=13142
it is IMHO a last resort but l could not see any movement in OAL so l think it polished it up without severe wear
l still haven't had time to check the test results, to busy hunting at the moment but it may be what you need to do as well
l would not do this to a new barrel but did it to a barrel that was having problems and it worked for me :drinks:
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Re: Copper fouling - how bad ?

Post by TassieTiger » 19 Feb 2020, 8:57 pm

SCJ429 wrote:Are you seeing copper carbonate, blue stuff, on your patches.?


Only one mate - then the next patch is clean.
If I wet patch again - same thing....1 blue patch and rest clean...but in saying that, the patches are light in colour compared to my other fouled rifles that come out deep blue.
Tikka .260 (Z5 5x25/52)
Steyr Pro Varmint .223 - VX 3
CZ455 .22 & Norinco .22 (vtex 4-12, bush 3-9)
ATA 686 U/O 12g & Baikal S/S 12g.
Adler a110 reddot
Sauer 30-06 - VX 3
Howa 300 win mag. SHV 5-20/56
Marlin SBL 45/70
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Re: Copper fouling - how bad ?

Post by TassieTiger » 19 Feb 2020, 9:11 pm

marksman wrote:she is behaving pretty badly Tassie, that copper is really heavy
recently l put up a post about using tubbs final finish for a rifle that was copper fouling very badly
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=13142
it is IMHO a last resort but l could not see any movement in OAL so l think it polished it up without severe wear
l still haven't had time to check the test results, to busy hunting at the moment but it may be what you need to do as well
l would not do this to a new barrel but did it to a barrel that was having problems and it worked for me :drinks:


I’m actually considering emailing sauer and see what they say. The rifle is dialled in - shooting 168gn at 2950fps with 58.6gns of 2209 into insane small groups. Even 1st cold bore shot is fantastic - and that is what I need to remember here...it’s a hunting rifle and a budget hunting rifle at that.
I’m going to purchase some previously advised cleaners that I haven’t tried - I haven’t plugged the barrel and heated / completely filled with solvent, etc - a few things to try before I risk JB, autosol or the tubbs process but yeah - it does appear that normal cleaning process does not apply.
Bloody Germans :roll:
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Tikka .260 (Z5 5x25/52)
Steyr Pro Varmint .223 - VX 3
CZ455 .22 & Norinco .22 (vtex 4-12, bush 3-9)
ATA 686 U/O 12g & Baikal S/S 12g.
Adler a110 reddot
Sauer 30-06 - VX 3
Howa 300 win mag. SHV 5-20/56
Marlin SBL 45/70
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Re: Copper fouling - how bad ?

Post by Blr243 » 19 Feb 2020, 10:24 pm

Germans sold you a tack holer for under a grand. Nice germans
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Re: Copper fouling - how bad ?

Post by No1_49er » 19 Feb 2020, 11:30 pm

TassieTiger wrote:The sauer? I must have 60 patches used. The rifle is not old and hadn’t shot more than 100 rounds.

I have read through all the posts and this is the first mention of how many shots have been fired in this rifle.
Has the barrel EVER been free of trace copper after cleaning? What break-in procedure did you use with respect to a cleaning regime after however many shots, then repeat, etc., etc? E.G. one shot, clean until no fouling, second shot, repeat, third shot, repeat but only a couple of patches till clean, five (?) shots, repeat, etc, incrementally increasing number of shots until little effort required to clean.
Tell us your regime and we might know where to start with advice.
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Re: Copper fouling - how bad ?

Post by wanneroo » 20 Feb 2020, 1:38 am

Sounds like you will do more damage over cleaning the rifle than getting all the fouling out.
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Re: Copper fouling - how bad ?

Post by TassieTiger » 20 Feb 2020, 3:48 am

wanneroo wrote:Sounds like you will do more damage over cleaning the rifle than getting all the fouling out.

My concern as well.
Tikka .260 (Z5 5x25/52)
Steyr Pro Varmint .223 - VX 3
CZ455 .22 & Norinco .22 (vtex 4-12, bush 3-9)
ATA 686 U/O 12g & Baikal S/S 12g.
Adler a110 reddot
Sauer 30-06 - VX 3
Howa 300 win mag. SHV 5-20/56
Marlin SBL 45/70
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Re: Copper fouling - how bad ?

Post by TassieTiger » 20 Feb 2020, 4:28 am

]
I have read through all the posts and this is the first mention of how many shots have been fired in this rifle.
Has the barrel EVER been free of trace copper after cleaning? What break-in procedure did you use with respect to a cleaning regime after however many shots, then repeat, etc., etc? E.G. one shot, clean until no fouling, second shot, repeat, third shot, repeat but only a couple of patches till clean, five (?) shots, repeat, etc, incrementally increasing number of shots until little effort required to clean.
Tell us your regime and we might know where to start with advice.[/quote]

When I first got this rifle in Feb 19, I purchased factory loads for running in.
Shot 4-6 and cleaned/oiled barrel - until 25 shots were down and then thoroughly cleaned after every outing. Copper fouling was light, but present.

Yes, this barrel has been copper free previously, but I have mislead ppl saying it’s only done 100 shots - as going back through notes, there were some 110 shots of load development in Feb, March, April, and a few more intermittently after that confirming point of sim with new scopes. That and plus almost 50 shots undertaken the other day by me and others (heat may have been a factor with this build up - but we let it cool after 6-8 shots every time.)
I recall putting this rifle away clean some 6+ months ago, previous to shooting the other day - and a friend thought it might have been rust more so than copper, but I disagree - as I can clean the exact same streaks out of my other rifles. Unless I missed the streaking...but I’m confident I checked when cleaning, previous to storage.
50 shots in a single session with a sport barrel is a few but I can do the same with tikka 260 and hardly see any colour at all - that scrubs clean easily with sweets. The howa 300 colours up, but is easily cleaned and that rifle is relatively newish, load development is just being finalised, the steyr medium barrel just doesn’t seem to colour anymore.
Tikka .260 (Z5 5x25/52)
Steyr Pro Varmint .223 - VX 3
CZ455 .22 & Norinco .22 (vtex 4-12, bush 3-9)
ATA 686 U/O 12g & Baikal S/S 12g.
Adler a110 reddot
Sauer 30-06 - VX 3
Howa 300 win mag. SHV 5-20/56
Marlin SBL 45/70
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Re: Copper fouling - how bad ?

Post by wanneroo » 20 Feb 2020, 5:27 am

Well you can also trying some of the powders like the CFE powders that minimize or erase copper fouling.
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Re: Copper fouling - how bad ?

Post by TassieTiger » 20 Feb 2020, 5:59 am

Stupid idea - but I recall coke ripping copper off 1c coins hmmm lol
Tikka .260 (Z5 5x25/52)
Steyr Pro Varmint .223 - VX 3
CZ455 .22 & Norinco .22 (vtex 4-12, bush 3-9)
ATA 686 U/O 12g & Baikal S/S 12g.
Adler a110 reddot
Sauer 30-06 - VX 3
Howa 300 win mag. SHV 5-20/56
Marlin SBL 45/70
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Re: Copper fouling - how bad ?

Post by marksman » 20 Feb 2020, 7:21 am

heres a link that explains a bit about bore fouling and another link that shows how to use an electric cleaner, l have no experience with these but have thought about it
if l were to use the electric cleaner l would definitely only be using it once and l would be polishing the bore afterward,
but l would expect you to polish the bore once you get it clean anyway
https://www.shootingsoftware.com/fouling.htm
https://www.firearmstalk.com/threads/ma ... kit.31091/

and mchughcb put up some very interesting short vids he did on using kg12
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=soFJxb4 ... e=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=315vYZG ... e=youtu.be
https://www.coretacsolutions.com/produc ... 2_TEST.htm
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Re: Copper fouling - how bad ?

Post by Am88 » 20 Feb 2020, 7:24 am

I don't know bugger all about this stuff, but if it's shooting really well, there appears to be no issue, my .222 Tikka has the same staining it seems, I only clean it with #9 Hoppe's, and it's never shot any different and I'm up to about 3500 rounds or so now out of it. This is my gun I use to cull roos, sometime 100-150shots a night, in winter, you might get to 40 to 50 rounds before feeling it needs a quick run through, but in summer, sometimes after 20 to 30. This is a work gun, and I use the dirty old bore snake :lol: couple of pulls with it and number 9 and away we go. Then I'll give it a scrub with a brush and #9 when home. And this isn't #9 benchrest copper remover, just plain ol #9.

I told you that to tell you this, a while ago I got the notion and started reading about this cleaning stuff, i got real paranoid and went and bought this bore tech stuff to remove all the copper that was surely jammed in my barrel after 2000 rounds of me neglecting it. It did bugger all, couple of blue patches, so I did it again, clean patches with a slight blue tinge, hmmm so got some sweets I had lying around, same result clean, so....... That was the last time I did it :lol: haven't used anything other then the snake in the field and scrub when home method since, and the gun shoots exactly the same, and it shoots bloody well.

Cheers
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Re: Copper fouling - how bad ?

Post by TassieTiger » 20 Feb 2020, 8:17 am

Thanks MM - that kg looks serious stuff. Not sure on elec but I am getting worried about over doing this as it is...
AM, this is kind of what the gun smith was saying as well, which completely through me. But - I have to believe the smithy was fobbing me off and there are much more experienced and knowledgeable ppl than me saying - get it out...but it’s like it’s electroplated on mine lol.
Tikka .260 (Z5 5x25/52)
Steyr Pro Varmint .223 - VX 3
CZ455 .22 & Norinco .22 (vtex 4-12, bush 3-9)
ATA 686 U/O 12g & Baikal S/S 12g.
Adler a110 reddot
Sauer 30-06 - VX 3
Howa 300 win mag. SHV 5-20/56
Marlin SBL 45/70
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Re: Copper fouling - how bad ?

Post by Am88 » 20 Feb 2020, 8:50 am

I know what your saying, that was just an experience I have had, and I've been told the same things by by a couple of gunsmiths too, I have never had a problem however just doing what I do now.

I also have seen a gunsmith (allegedly) talk about people not knowing the difference between copper conditioning, and copper fouling, have read a few articles on it aswell.

I remember once and old gentlemen talking to me at a trap shoot, I was new to the game and I asked him what the easiest chemical is to get the was plastic out of the barrels and choke tubes, he looked and me funny and said "it's only a piece of steel, I use petrol" I never got the plastic fouling out of the barrel and chokes so easy, been using petrol for years. He's right, it's only a piece of steel.
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Re: Copper fouling - how bad ?

Post by Stix » 20 Feb 2020, 12:43 pm

:wtf:

Who's this... :shock: :unknown: ...

Just who the hell is this...?... :unknown: :o

Back from extinction... :unknown:
Or just another ghost wandering the halls from van diemen's land... :lol:

How for art thouwh... :)

Look...i havent read anything here yet...so forgive me coming in saying potentially silly stuff after what is most likely very sound, & much better advice than this...

But my old 22-250 was never cleaned properly, & it took months to rid the copper from the old bore...

I found doing it on the range helped most...in short, shooting it to generate heat greatly increased the amount of copper i could remove with each soaking scrub...and in the end i did it with a nylon brush...
Shoot couple rounds...quickly patch out carbon...soak with copper solvent & agitate a lot with nylon brush, more solvent, more agitation...let sit for a minute...patch out with a dry patch, then soak onther patch or 2 & push em through, then repeat...then clean out solvent, dry, air dry, then shoot & repeat again.

I would finish by going home with a warm wet bore full of agitated solvent to continue at home...

By the time the copper was gone, so was the accuracy... :roll:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhzzAUaOzsk
:lol:
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Re: Copper fouling - how bad ?

Post by GQshayne » 20 Feb 2020, 7:25 pm

Well if you read my .17 thread, you will know that you are waaay short of the time taken to clean my M55. Days and days of cleaning, hundreds of patches and worn out brushes. But in the end, it was clean.

I would follow the cleaning method for when you suspect you have layering. If when using a specialist copper remover you get a clean patch, then switch back to a carbon remover. When the patches from the carbon remover come out clean, switch back to the copper solvent. I found doing this that I would immediately get more copper out. Layers of copper can be trapped under layers of carbon. In between solvents I gave Autosol a few goes too.
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Re: Copper fouling - how bad ?

Post by TassieTiger » 20 Feb 2020, 7:53 pm

Stix wrote::wtf:

Who's this... :shock: :unknown: ...

Just who the hell is this...?... :unknown: :o

Back from extinction... :unknown:
Or just another ghost wandering the halls from van diemen's land... :lol:

How for art thouwh... :)

Look...i havent read anything here yet...so forgive me coming in saying potentially silly stuff after what is most likely very sound, & much better advice than this...

But my old 22-250 was never cleaned properly, & it took months to rid the copper from the old bore...

I found doing it on the range helped most...in short, shooting it to generate heat greatly increased the amount of copper i could remove with each soaking scrub...and in the end i did it with a nylon brush...
Shoot couple rounds...quickly patch out carbon...soak with copper solvent & agitate a lot with nylon brush, more solvent, more agitation...let sit for a minute...patch out with a dry patch, then soak onther patch or 2 & push em through, then repeat...then clean out solvent, dry, air dry, then shoot & repeat again.

I would finish by going home with a warm wet bore full of agitated solvent to continue at home...

By the time the copper was gone, so was the accuracy... :roll:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhzzAUaOzsk
:lol:
:drinks:


:drinks: thanks for the warm welcome ole mate. I emailed you today re a couple things. Never rains lol.

Yes - I had to do the family concentrate thing for a while but I’m back to soak up knowledge and antagonise some others, with Tassie devils sarcasm - as per usual. :friends:
Ps - I’ll package up that little thing this weekend. Best get some Panadol ready :-)
Tikka .260 (Z5 5x25/52)
Steyr Pro Varmint .223 - VX 3
CZ455 .22 & Norinco .22 (vtex 4-12, bush 3-9)
ATA 686 U/O 12g & Baikal S/S 12g.
Adler a110 reddot
Sauer 30-06 - VX 3
Howa 300 win mag. SHV 5-20/56
Marlin SBL 45/70
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Re: Copper fouling - how bad ?

Post by TassieTiger » 20 Feb 2020, 7:58 pm

Am88 wrote:I know what your saying, that was just an experience I have had, and I've been told the same things by by a couple of gunsmiths too, I have never had a problem however just doing what I do now.

I also have seen a gunsmith (allegedly) talk about people not knowing the difference between copper conditioning, and copper fouling, have read a few articles on it aswell.

I remember once and old gentlemen talking to me at a trap shoot, I was new to the game and I asked him what the easiest chemical is to get the was plastic out of the barrels and choke tubes, he looked and me funny and said "it's only a piece of steel, I use petrol" I never got the plastic fouling out of the barrel and chokes so easy, been using petrol for years. He's right, it's only a piece of steel.


It’s interesting hearing these stories. I went into the northern Tas gun shop today - described what I had tried and showed the photos. No less than 3 ppl came over and all said the same thing - according to them, some barrels will foul, (condition?) and I’ll go more damage chasing it out than leaving it in...but again, I strongly respect a no of opinions on here, who have a lot more experience-so...i lol keep working on it.
Tikka .260 (Z5 5x25/52)
Steyr Pro Varmint .223 - VX 3
CZ455 .22 & Norinco .22 (vtex 4-12, bush 3-9)
ATA 686 U/O 12g & Baikal S/S 12g.
Adler a110 reddot
Sauer 30-06 - VX 3
Howa 300 win mag. SHV 5-20/56
Marlin SBL 45/70
TassieTiger
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Posts: 3715
Tasmania

Re: Copper fouling - how bad ?

Post by TassieTiger » 20 Feb 2020, 8:05 pm

GQshayne wrote:Well if you read my .17 thread, you will know that you are waaay short of the time taken to clean my M55. Days and days of cleaning, hundreds of patches and worn out brushes. But in the end, it was clean.

I would follow the cleaning method for when you suspect you have layering. If when using a specialist copper remover you get a clean patch, then switch back to a carbon remover. When the patches from the carbon remover come out clean, switch back to the copper solvent. I found doing this that I would immediately get more copper out. Layers of copper can be trapped under layers of carbon. In between solvents I gave Autosol a few goes too.


I did read you entire thread - the difference (I hope) is that you were removing years of negligence worth thousands of shots, where I’m trying to remove a single (albeit a lengthy one) shooting session and the barrel hadn’t had that many shots in total - records showing under 250.

But I did pinch a couple ideas - and as stock has also touched on, heating the barrel up, might be an answer...I feel that something like this will provide a breakthrough...but, after that - if it coppers up again next shoot - I’ll do exactly as MM has suggested re autosol to try and calm it down. My worry is that at present, it’s 1/2 moa - is like to keep that quality if I can...if I can’t, well it’s been a learning experience and I’ll plink away and rebarrel if and when.
Cheers. :drinks:
Tikka .260 (Z5 5x25/52)
Steyr Pro Varmint .223 - VX 3
CZ455 .22 & Norinco .22 (vtex 4-12, bush 3-9)
ATA 686 U/O 12g & Baikal S/S 12g.
Adler a110 reddot
Sauer 30-06 - VX 3
Howa 300 win mag. SHV 5-20/56
Marlin SBL 45/70
TassieTiger
Colonel
Colonel
 
Posts: 3715
Tasmania

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