Stix wrote::wtf:
Who's this... ...
Just who the hell is this...?...
Back from extinction...
Or just another ghost wandering the halls from van diemen's land...
How for art thouwh...
Look...i havent read anything here yet...so forgive me coming in saying potentially silly stuff after what is most likely very sound, & much better advice than this...
But my old 22-250 was never cleaned properly, & it took months to rid the copper from the old bore...
I found doing it on the range helped most...in short, shooting it to generate heat greatly increased the amount of copper i could remove with each soaking scrub...and in the end i did it with a nylon brush...
Shoot couple rounds...quickly patch out carbon...soak with copper solvent & agitate a lot with nylon brush, more solvent, more agitation...let sit for a minute...patch out with a dry patch, then soak onther patch or 2 & push em through, then repeat...then clean out solvent, dry, air dry, then shoot & repeat again.
I would finish by going home with a warm wet bore full of agitated solvent to continue at home...
By the time the copper was gone, so was the accuracy...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhzzAUaOzsk
Am88 wrote:I know what your saying, that was just an experience I have had, and I've been told the same things by by a couple of gunsmiths too, I have never had a problem however just doing what I do now.
I also have seen a gunsmith (allegedly) talk about people not knowing the difference between copper conditioning, and copper fouling, have read a few articles on it aswell.
I remember once and old gentlemen talking to me at a trap shoot, I was new to the game and I asked him what the easiest chemical is to get the was plastic out of the barrels and choke tubes, he looked and me funny and said "it's only a piece of steel, I use petrol" I never got the plastic fouling out of the barrel and chokes so easy, been using petrol for years. He's right, it's only a piece of steel.
GQshayne wrote:Well if you read my .17 thread, you will know that you are waaay short of the time taken to clean my M55. Days and days of cleaning, hundreds of patches and worn out brushes. But in the end, it was clean.
I would follow the cleaning method for when you suspect you have layering. If when using a specialist copper remover you get a clean patch, then switch back to a carbon remover. When the patches from the carbon remover come out clean, switch back to the copper solvent. I found doing this that I would immediately get more copper out. Layers of copper can be trapped under layers of carbon. In between solvents I gave Autosol a few goes too.
SCJ429 wrote:No point using Boretec Carbon cleaner to try and dissolve copper, try Cu+.
I have found Hoppes copper cleaner totally ineffective and I would not waste my time with it.
wanneroo wrote:I'm thinking ramming that rod in there hundreds of times over and over again is going to do more damage than a bit of copper.
I like the Swiss methodology. They use a grease called Waffenfett and when they finish shooting they run a patch of Waffenfett through the hot bore. When they get home they run more Waffenfett through the bore, some dry patches to clean it up and then run a patch of Waffenfett through for storage. Before shooting again they run a wet patch through to get the old grease and then shoot. I have an 84 year old Swiss K31 with a pristine bore.
TassieTiger wrote:When I planned to leave some solvent in for a night, it was always going to be the known weakest solvent I had.
When the hoppes no 9 went in - there were streaks like this. (Note - I’ve never managed to get any copper out with hoppes from another rifle - sweets, belcey and chambers - yes)...no one I know, rates hoppes no 9 as a solvent...no one personally, no one on the board.
I am wondering if the boretech carbon cleaner didn’t clean out an invisible to naked eye covering over the copper, that allowed solvent to finally attack...I don’t guttenheimen know. It’s strange and weird but it’s done,