My first Enfield .303

[Combat_Wombat]

Looking to pick up a bit of Australian military history to look after and shoot the occasional pig with. Any advice on what to look out for buying online and has anyone got a preferred model? I'm leaning more towards the mk 3 or 4 now and a Jungle Carbine later on

[Westy]

Jungle Carbine === This would be the only 303 I'd bother bringing home now days IMHO!!! either you love'em or hatem and sadly I'm not a fan, most important thing is check your bore in a 303.A good one will still shoot like stink.

[Combat_Wombat]

Yeah my old boy has Grandad's carbine from ww2 had a lot of fun learning to shoot with it. Bit worried about the bore because I'll be buying online and nearly everyone advertises "good bore" so hopefully I don't get shafted

[chilliman]

Jungle Carbine === This would be the only 303 I'd bother bringing home now days IMHO!!! either you love'em or hatem and sadly I'm not a fan, most important thing is check your bore in a 303.A good one will still shoot like stink.

being the newb that I am I have a question which might be obvious to everyone else here = how do you check to see if the bore is ok? is it as simple as using a torch and having a look or is it more complicated? that is of course if I am not able to shoot it as part of my inspection, like at a gun show.

[Warrigul]

being the newb that I am I have a question which might be obvious to everyone else here = how do you check to see if the bore is ok? is it as simple as using a torch and having a look or is it more complicated? that is of course if I am not able to shoot it as part of my inspection, like at a gun show.

It should be bright and shiny- many aren't and this can be rust, oil, grease etc. If it doesn't clean up after a pass or two it is possibly an issue(it may clean up who knows).

If you can't see any obvious internal pits of damage and the muzzle doesn't have wear marks from pull throughs then run a wrapped jag down the bore, it should be smooth and consistant all the way.

If you don't have bore guages then pull out your .312(standard .303 projectile) and it DEFINATELY shouldn't go down the bore, if it does then walk. Test it with a .308 as well which also shouldn't go down (The .303 refers to the distance between the lands).

Checking headspace is also a wise move but most end up okay as long as the bolt matches the action.

Honestly, I have a few .303's and wouldn't buy one unless I could check it myself or get a moneyback guarantee.

[wrenchman]

The fighting mans gun built like a tank we love them here.
I have given a couple to guides of mine back in the early 90s they were working as moose bear guides in Canada I think I would be brakeing law now days if I did that.

[GPostal]

If its just for shootin pigs then go for a No 4. The 2 groove barrels are excellent and are heavy barreled

My collection is all about rifles built and used in WW2 Some I shoot and some are unfired.

Definitely check the rifle out first b4 you buy. Ive found gun shops are very generous with wear and condition reports.

Rarely do people advertise true condition.

Head to YouTube - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UsNCqqWgZZA

This guy is very good - I have his publications too

Warrigal talks good sense also.

Main thing is thing is these rifles were dime a dozen and often shot with corrosive ammo (primers) and never cleaned properly.

And LITHGOW rifles are what your after.

Also you can ask members here to keep an eye out for you at their local gun store for good rifles.

[chilliman]

hey GPostal, can I ask, you say to get a #4 but then tell him to get a Lithgow? I guess you mean a #4 made at Lithgow? I didn't think any 4's were made there, mainly Canada (Longbranch), UK and US (Savage). but I'm probably wrong - sorry if I've misinterpreted what you're saying. most of my info on .303s is from books and the 'net, no real world experience (so far).

I do agree with inspection of any pre-loved firearm prior to purchase, or at least (like warrigul suggested) get the seller to agree to a full refund if the description is not accurate.

[chilliman]

It should be bright and shiny- many aren't and this can be rust, oil, grease etc. If it doesn't clean up after a pass or two it is possibly an issue(it may clean up who knows).

If you can't see any obvious internal pits of damage and the muzzle doesn't have wear marks from pull throughs then run a wrapped jag down the bore, it should be smooth and consistant all the way.

If you don't have bore guages then pull out your .312(standard .303 projectile) and it DEFINATELY shouldn't go down the bore, if it does then walk. Test it with a .308 as well which also shouldn't go down (The .303 refers to the distance between the lands).

Checking headspace is also a wise move but most end up okay as long as the bolt matches the action.

Honestly, I have a few .303's and wouldn't buy one unless I could check it myself or get a moneyback guarantee.

hey mate - sorry, forgot to say thanks for your excellent advice on bore checking.

[GPostal]

hey GPostal, can I ask, you say to get a #4 but then tell him to get a Lithgow? I guess you mean a #4 made at Lithgow? I didn't think any 4's were made there, mainly Canada (Longbranch), UK and US (Savage). but I'm probably wrong - sorry if I've misinterpreted what you're saying. most of my info on .303s is from books and the 'net, no real world experience (so far).

Heya Chillman

Your right, I did read that the poms sent some sniper rifles on trial for Lithgow to look at but no number 4's were made by Lithgow.

The number 4's make great pig guns but if you want to collect as well then Lithgow No1 Mark 3's are the go.

The Jungle carbines have a reputation for having poor accuracy but the 3 I have shot have all been really good so now not too sure about the bad rep. They may have even been accurized to some degree.

[Warrigul]

The Jungle carbines have a reputation for having poor accuracy but the 3 I have shot have all been really good so now not too sure about the bad rep. They may have even been accurized to some degree.

I have owned a small number and never found any issue with wandering zero as has been claimed, however I do believe it plausible that the action could warp if used with full military loads over a long period.

Many #5 rifles were well used and flogged out by the time they got to Australia as surplus in the eighties.

Australian troops were issued with #5 rifles in SE Asia after WW2, plenty of pictures about with #5's and #4 rifles in hands of Australians- however as far as I know we never manufactured them.

I am no expert.

[Combat_Wombat]

Okay looks like a mk4 it is so what's the twist rate of the barrel? And what is the best factory ammo for it? Won't be reloading for a while

[Warrigul]

Okay looks like a mk4 it is so what's the twist rate of the barrel? And what is the best factory ammo for it? Won't be reloading for a while

1:10 twist rate, there are varying opinions on PPU (or highland) ammo but one thing is for sure-once you have shot it the used cases are some of the best .303 brass you can have.