Recommendations

[Rider888]

Just obtained my Cat A/B and looking at buying some rifles for Vermin Control including foxes.

As I know nothing about rifles, can I please get some recommendations on types (Centerfire Vs Rimfire) and Caliber?

Looks like a common caliber for a rifle is .222 and .223. Is this all I need? There is also something called a .22LR. Advantages and disadvantages of each please?

Following on from that I will also be looking at a Shotgun. Any suggestions/recommendations for a first time owner? Single, Double (side by side/over and under) Barrel and also gauge recommendations would be great. Looks like I can only buy a shotgun with a 5 round Mag? Is this correct?

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated

Thank you

[in2anity]

1) Every shooter needs a 22lr.
2) 223 running 55gr factory will tick all your boxes, especially budget.
3) The shotgunner never goes hungry.

[Rider888]

Thanks all. I think im sold on the.22LR and also a 17HMR. Will look at getting these

[in2anity]

Thanks all. I think im sold on the.22LR and also a 17HMR. Will look at getting these

17hmr is a good "block-buster" for wabbits and foxes, and slightly larger thin-skinned with precise shot placement. A lot easier to hunt with out to 100m compared to 22lr. Ammo's around 60c/pop which is ok by today's standards. But it won't bench 200m very well, under blustery conditions, unlike the 223.

[Bello]

Hi mate
The first rifle I suggest you look at would be a good quality 22LR. With a descent scope.
It’s a really good training tool to hone your skills on. Cheap to run and effective tool for small vermin eradication within ethical ranges.

Larger calibre rifles will depend on what you want to achieve with that particular firearm. Then you have to consider what type of bullet would suit that application for the distance you are looking at shooting.

Before buying a rifle, see if a friend or club can loan you a rifle to use at a range to see how you feel with that calibre. It may save you heartache later.
I have seen several people at the range with larger calibre rifles what developed a flinch. They bought a rifle on a friends say so, only to find they didn’t have the expertise / confidence to use that calibre.

If you have the necessary experience, then my choice would be
22LR…Rabbits and small varmints at close ranges
223 Good all round calibre for larger varmints at longer distances
308 Good all round calibre for larger game…pigs, goat, deer etc
12 Gauge shot gun…good close range firearm for rabbit up to pigs etc

There are a ton of different calibres. I believe its horses for courses.

Read as much as you can, ask heaps of questions, talk to different people who shoot, and form your own opinion as to what you will require.

Good luck

[GQshayne]

Thanks all. I think im sold on the.22LR and also a 17HMR. Will look at getting these

If you want to shoot foxes then the .17HMR is at the lower end of performance. Yes it will shoot foxes, but will be limited. A .22LR is good for practice and plinking, plenty of shots for not a lot of cost.

I think the vast majority of members on this forum will suggest a .223 is good option for you, and I am no different. Good for foxes, and with the right ammo, pigs and goats etc too.

[ash_hendo]

1) Every shooter needs a 22lr.
2) 223 running 55gr factory will tick all your boxes, especially budget.
3) The shotgunner never goes hungry.

You have a lot of good advice in this thread, everyone needs a 22lr But foxes are tricky and having something with a bit more omph and range really helps.

Often even a 223 feels like a cannon to a new hunter (although everyone will describe them as mild). If you can get somewhere to try one and you don't mind it, then it's a really good all rounder and hard to fault, especially if you need to dispatch anything a bit larger like a ferral goat.. But if you want something smaller that still does the job I've heard people say the 22 hornet fills the gap between 22lr/17hmr/22mag and 223 but I've not had experience with it myself. Someone who has might chime in. Ammo is centerfire cost though, unlike the rimfires (22lr/17hmr/22mag) which are cheaper.

[Bruiser64]

Just obtained my Cat A/B and looking at buying some rifles for Vermin Control including foxes.

As I know nothing about rifles, can I please get some recommendations on types (Centerfire Vs Rimfire) and Caliber?

Looks like a common caliber for a rifle is .222 and .223. Is this all I need? There is also something called a .22LR. Advantages and disadvantages of each please?

Following on from that I will also be looking at a Shotgun. Any suggestions/recommendations for a first time owner? Single, Double (side by side/over and under) Barrel and also gauge recommendations would be great. Looks like I can only buy a shotgun with a 5 round Mag? Is this correct?

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated

Thank you

If you have limited shooting experience and know nothing about rifles, I would recommend getting some firearms training before making any purchasing decisions. Safety must be the paramount concern of any responsible, law abiding user of firearms. ozzie Reviews has some excellent videos for the beginning shooter, so I would recommend looking at those as well.

Having said that, when deciding upon which calibres to recommend, I would suggest providing some more information about where you will be shooting. The size and nature of the shooting grounds are big factors in determining what are suitable calibres. Your budget is also important. Then we can look at your intended quarry and the likely shooting distances.

As others have said, a 12 gauge shotgun, a 22 long rifle, a .223, and a .308 will cover most hunting options available in Australia. I prefer an under/over double barrel shotgun. They are reliable and are good to use. If you provide more information about your budget and the nature of your shooting grounds better tailored recommendations can be made.

[Diamond Jim]

Agree on a .22LR and 12G ( I prefer an Under/Over but it's your choice). I'd advise leaving centrefire for 12 months or so until you've shot the .22LR a lot and are confident in your marksmanship. A small error at .22LR ranges could mean a miss at 200 or 300m and then you start doubting yourself, the gun, the cartridge. Get competent with the .22LR and you can take foxes and feral cats with appropriate cartridges and good shot placement. By then you will have a better idea of what centrefire you want.

[animalpest]

If you don't know enough about firearms to even know what a .22LR is, then don't get a centrefire!
Start with a basic .22, learn about it, shoot it, then when experienced enough, go bigger.
Start with the basics.

[bladeracer]

3) The shotgunner never goes hungry.

He might once he's shot all the close stuff

[Oldbloke]

Hi mate
The first rifle I suggest you look at would be a good quality 22LR. With a descent scope.
It’s a really good training tool to hone your skills on. Cheap to run and effective tool for small vermin eradication within ethical ranges.

Larger calibre rifles will depend on what you want to achieve with that particular firearm. Then you have to consider what type of bullet would suit that application for the distance you are looking at shooting.

Before buying a rifle, see if a friend or club can loan you a rifle to use at a range to see how you feel with that calibre. It may save you heartache later.
I have seen several people at the range with larger calibre rifles what developed a flinch. They bought a rifle on a friends say so, only to find they didn’t have the expertise / confidence to use that calibre.

If you have the necessary experience, then my choice would be
22LR…Rabbits and small varmints at close ranges
223 Good all round calibre for larger varmints at longer distances
308 Good all round calibre for larger game…pigs, goat, deer etc
12 Gauge shot gun…good close range firearm for rabbit up to pigs etc

There are a ton of different calibres. I believe its horses for courses.

Read as much as you can, ask heaps of questions, talk to different people who shoot, and form your own opinion as to what you will require.

Good luck

What he said. ^^

[GQshayne]

If you don't know enough about firearms to even know what a .22LR is, then don't get a centrefire!
Start with a basic .22, learn about it, shoot it, then when experienced enough, go bigger.
Start with the basics.

Probably good advice here. Most of us started with the .22LR, even though I was only a kid, and it was appropriate then. But much can be learned using the humble .22LR, and the experience gained will help you with future purchases.

[in2anity]

3) The shotgunner never goes hungry.

He might once he's shot all the close stuff

Not for the nomad

Can’t remember exactly, but that quote comes from something like 18th century military, from troop on the move.

I must say, I never hunted much with a shotty growing up - but the few times I happened to, it seemed rather easy (compared to a rifle hunting background). Shots were always taken at appropriately close range - offhand bang/flop.

[Kurnal]

I started with a similar brief

First was a .223

Spent so much practicing technique etc it was costing me a fortune

Bought a 22LR for practice, range, bunnies. Cheap and fun and probably my favourite rifle now.

Lastly added a lightweight hunting .308. Kicks like a mule but ammo is easy to get and its a great calibre for the larger stuff.

[Rider888]

Hi mate
The first rifle I suggest you look at would be a good quality 22LR. With a descent scope.
It’s a really good training tool to hone your skills on. Cheap to run and effective tool for small vermin eradication within ethical ranges.

Larger calibre rifles will depend on what you want to achieve with that particular firearm. Then you have to consider what type of bullet would suit that application for the distance you are looking at shooting.

Before buying a rifle, see if a friend or club can loan you a rifle to use at a range to see how you feel with that calibre. It may save you heartache later.
I have seen several people at the range with larger calibre rifles what developed a flinch. They bought a rifle on a friends say so, only to find they didn’t have the expertise / confidence to use that calibre.

If you have the necessary experience, then my choice would be
22LR…Rabbits and small varmints at close ranges
223 Good all round calibre for larger varmints at longer distances
308 Good all round calibre for larger game…pigs, goat, deer etc
12 Gauge shot gun…good close range firearm for rabbit up to pigs etc

There are a ton of different calibres. I believe its horses for courses.

Read as much as you can, ask heaps of questions, talk to different people who shoot, and form your own opinion as to what you will require.

Good luck

Thanks Mate. What is your recommendation for a Scope? I have been researching Scopes and noticed a whole lot of different ones from fixed magnification to variable? There are some at HPGS that come with a scope as a package for about 800. I think its a Ruger. Thoughts?

[bladeracer]

Thanks Mate. What is your recommendation for a Scope? I have been researching Scopes and noticed a whole lot of different ones from fixed magnification to variable? There are some at HPGS that come with a scope as a package for about 800. I think its a Ruger. Thoughts?

I have bought two rifles with scopes, both were junk.
The air-rifle scope really is the worst thing I own, but I found them available on Ebay for $8 at the time, so not surprising. The second was my Ruger American 7mm-08 which came with a 3-9x40 Redfield Revolution as a package. The price was $200 less than just buying the rifle, and I was putting an AR Optics on it anyway, so the scope was of zero interest. I couldn't zero the scope initially as the reticle wouldn't move even close to the centre, and the turrets were incredibly tight, so I sent it back. It came back with a note saying they found nothing wrong with it. I was able to zero it though, and the turrets were now properly lubed. I've used it on several rifles since. It doesn't hold zero at all, but the glass is very good, which is the only reason I haven't cut it up as a display piece. If I get a new rifle and want to try it out I can mount the RR on it for testing until I'm ready to mount a proper scope on it. This scope retails at over $300 though and doesn't live up to that price at all. I know lots of other people that have this scope though and have zero complaints, so mine may be an anomaly.

Basically, if you buy a scoped package expect to be putting a better scope on it, and if you find the included scope to work well just think of it as a nice bonus. I wouldn't pay extra for the scope.

[Rider888]

Thanks Mate. What is your recommendation for a Scope? I have been researching Scopes and noticed a whole lot of different ones from fixed magnification to variable? There are some at HPGS that come with a scope as a package for about 800. I think its a Ruger. Thoughts?

I have bought two rifles with scopes, both were junk.
The air-rifle scope really is the worst thing I own, but I found them available on Ebay for $8 at the time, so not surprising. The second was my Ruger American 7mm-08 which came with a 3-9x40 Redfield Revolution as a package. The price was $200 less than just buying the rifle, and I was putting an AR Optics on it anyway, so the scope was of zero interest. I couldn't zero the scope initially as the reticle wouldn't move even close to the centre, and the turrets were incredibly tight, so I sent it back. It came back with a note saying they found nothing wrong with it. I was able to zero it though, and the turrets were now properly lubed. I've used it on several rifles since. It doesn't hold zero at all, but the glass is very good, which is the only reason I haven't cut it up as a display piece. If I get a new rifle and want to try it out I can mount the RR on it for testing until I'm ready to mount a proper scope on it. This scope retails at over $300 though and doesn't live up to that price at all. I know lots of other people that have this scope though and have zero complaints, so mine may be an anomaly.

Basically, if you buy a scoped package expect to be putting a better scope on it, and if you find the included scope to work well just think of it as a nice bonus. I wouldn't pay extra for the scope.

Thanks. This is good to know. I will look at a rifle without a scope then. If I know nothing about scopes, how hard would it be for me to Zero the thing once i get it home?

[noneyabussiness]

Thanks Mate. What is your recommendation for a Scope? I have been researching Scopes and noticed a whole lot of different ones from fixed magnification to variable? There are some at HPGS that come with a scope as a package for about 800. I think its a Ruger. Thoughts?

I have bought two rifles with scopes, both were junk.
The air-rifle scope really is the worst thing I own, but I found them available on Ebay for $8 at the time, so not surprising. The second was my Ruger American 7mm-08 which came with a 3-9x40 Redfield Revolution as a package. The price was $200 less than just buying the rifle, and I was putting an AR Optics on it anyway, so the scope was of zero interest. I couldn't zero the scope initially as the reticle wouldn't move even close to the centre, and the turrets were incredibly tight, so I sent it back. It came back with a note saying they found nothing wrong with it. I was able to zero it though, and the turrets were now properly lubed. I've used it on several rifles since. It doesn't hold zero at all, but the glass is very good, which is the only reason I haven't cut it up as a display piece. If I get a new rifle and want to try it out I can mount the RR on it for testing until I'm ready to mount a proper scope on it. This scope retails at over $300 though and doesn't live up to that price at all. I know lots of other people that have this scope though and have zero complaints, so mine may be an anomaly.

Basically, if you buy a scoped package expect to be putting a better scope on it, and if you find the included scope to work well just think of it as a nice bonus. I wouldn't pay extra for the scope.

Thanks. This is good to know. I will look at a rifle without a scope then. If I know nothing about scopes, how hard would it be for me to Zero the thing once i get it home?

firstly , watch a lot of tutorials, start with someone like ozzie reviews videos... has some great ones ... then visit your local range, ask heaps of questions to the range officer... and 1 thing my RO said, learn to zero from the shoulder from get go( still use a bag or something) , rather than a vice.. more of a learning curve but easier in the long run say when you are out hunting etc. and change cartridges... but I'm sure there are other opinions there...

hope this helps

[bladeracer]

Thanks. This is good to know. I will look at a rifle without a scope then. If I know nothing about scopes, how hard would it be for me to Zero the thing once i get it home?

Remove the bolt and lay the rifle on a bench.
Align the rifle with some object about 25m away by looking through the barrel.
Without moving the rifle, adjust the scope to align with the same object.
When you look through the barrel and the sights, and both are aligned with the same spot at 25m, you should be near enough to be on an A3 page at 25m.

Fire one round at paper at 25m.
Leave the rifle with the sights aligned with the same target, and move the sights over to the bullet hole you just made. With iron sights you will have to adjust and fire another shot, though you can use geometry to calculate roughly how much adjustment you require. If you have to drift a sight use a soft punch and a hammer, don't try to hit the sight with the hammer.
If the rifle is accurate it is probably now zeroed at 25m, but shoot a group to confirm and make any fine adjustment.
If the rifle groups about 30mm or more at 50m you'll have to shoot some groups to confirm exactly where to adjust the sights to.

Confirm your zero at whatever distance best suits your purpose. With a .22LR you'll likely want to zero between 40m and 60m for hunting. With high-velocity rifles I zero 30mm to 60mm high at 100m to give me a zero around 250m. These zeros let me shoot out to 100m with .22LR and 300m with the centrefires with minor holds under and over my target. If you plan to take shots on live targets out to 300m make sure you actually practice at that distance to confirm your hold over, and your ability to hit the target under field conditions.

[solarpak]

Ask fellow shooters, read print media / get onto the internet..........

Most gun shops will point you in the right direction ......but there could some unscrupulous ones out there that want to sell you what you DONT need....

Publications like Australian Shooter and Sporting Shooter are also excellent to get to know everything about rifles and shotguns in the first instance..


The main thing is ALWAYS BE SAFE AND ALWAYS TREAT A FIREARM AS IF ITS LOADED.

C.

[ash_hendo]

Thanks. This is good to know. I will look at a rifle without a scope then. If I know nothing about scopes, how hard would it be for me to Zero the thing once i get it home?

I assume you have a farm if you're talking about zeroing at home? Otherwise its a job for the range.

If you buy a scope separate, the gun shop will probably still mount and bore sight it for you if you buy the rings and rifle of them, good scope mounts are surprisingly expensive too. Mounting a scope can be a bit of a trial too, getting the eye relief right, not overtensioning things and bending/pinching the scope etc.

Otherwise follow bladeracers instructions for getting on paper. Then it's a few hours at the range getting it zero'd in (for a newbie it is quite hard as you "chase your dot around") - people who have been shooting a while know after a few shots exactly how to adjust.

You would really benifit from a friend showing you the ropes,. lots of friendly range people happy to help usually.

Personally I will never buy a cheap scope again, I love my expensive scopes. I'd put up with a cheap rifle before a cheap scope..... Cheap rifles shoot pretty good these days anyway.

[Rider888]

I appreciate all the advice here. Thank you so much.
Ive decided to get a 22LR as my first rifle and go play around in the bush, shooting targets especially when the cost per round is so much less than a larger caliber rifle.
Just need to work out which 22LR I will buy as there are a few out there and really no way to tell until I buy one and take it shooting. However I a favouring some of the larger, more established companies that offer VFM such as Ruger or Howa.
Would love a Lithgow Arms but cannot justify sending 2 or 3 times more than a Ruger or Howa for my first.

[Shootermick]

I appreciate all the advice here. Thank you so much.
Ive decided to get a 22LR as my first rifle and go play around in the bush, shooting targets especially when the cost per round is so much less than a larger caliber rifle.
Just need to work out which 22LR I will buy as there are a few out there and really no way to tell until I buy one and take it shooting. However I a favouring some of the larger, more established companies that offer VFM such as Ruger or Howa.
Would love a Lithgow Arms but cannot justify sending 2 or 3 times more than a Ruger or Howa for my first.

I’ve got Rugers in 22lr, 22mag, 243, and a 10/22 on its way.
Fantastic rifles for the money. I’d recommend the Ruger American Compact, 18” medium contour barrel. I’d also go for the stainless version.

[noneyabussiness]

I cannot recommend enough the cz515, if still available... a whole lotta fun and pretty accurate to boot...

[Bugman]

I appreciate all the advice here. Thank you so much.
Ive decided to get a 22LR as my first rifle and go play around in the bush, shooting targets especially when the cost per round is so much less than a larger caliber rifle.
Just need to work out which 22LR I will buy as there are a few out there and really no way to tell until I buy one and take it shooting. However I a favouring some of the larger, more established companies that offer VFM such as Ruger or Howa.
Would love a Lithgow Arms but cannot justify sending 2 or 3 times more than a Ruger or Howa for my first.

Good decision. Buy the best rifle and scope you can afford and go from there.