Has anyone used a 4AW Muzzle Brake?

[sbd850]

I'm considering getting one for my 6.5CM in the 3 vent format.

I was wondering if anyone has one or has fired one and how they found it?

Also, in before comments about not needing a muzzle brake for a 6.5. I know I don't *need* one, but I'm aiming to make this rifle (and myself) as accurate as possible. So if mitigating the already relatively light recoil contributes to that then I'm willing to invest.

[deye243]

I'm considering getting one for my 6.5CM in the 3 vent format.

I was wondering if anyone has one or has fired one and how they found it?

Also, in before comments about not needing a muzzle brake for a 6.5. I know I don't *need* one, but I'm aiming to make this rifle (and myself) as accurate as possible. So if mitigating the already relatively light recoil contributes to that then I'm willing to invest.

I will put up with recoil over blast for accuracy any day of the week.

[SCJ429]

The muzzle brake will do nothing for accuracy, just help stop the rifle jumping off the bench or ground if you are shooting prone. This may help you settle back to your sight picture if you are shooting quickly. The blast will not make you popular if you are shooting next to others.

[sbd850]

The muzzle brake will do nothing for accuracy, just help stop the rifle jumping off the bench or ground if you are shooting prone. This may help you settle back to your sight picture if you are shooting quickly. The blast will not make you popular if you are shooting next to others.

Yeah that's what I'm after, less jump and an easier time staying on target for more overall consistency and repeatability. The rifle itself is very accurate being a Tikka.

My local range has a separate end for Muzzle Brakes, so there's no issues with annoying people.

[Billo]

Having only starting using muzzle brakes in the last 12 months these are my thoughts

Directional brakes are bloody loud and need to be timed, accuracy isn't always aided.

Radial, whilst not as good in reducing huge amounts of recoil they are certainly heaps friendlier on the ears and don't need to be timed.

[Wapiti]

The muzzle brake will do nothing for accuracy, just help stop the rifle jumping off the bench or ground if you are shooting prone. This may help you settle back to your sight picture if you are shooting quickly. The blast will not make you popular if you are shooting next to others.

Yeah that's what I'm after, less jump and an easier time staying on target for more overall consistency and repeatability. The rifle itself is very accurate being a Tikka.

My local range has a separate end for Muzzle Brakes, so there's no issues with annoying people.

Brakes allow switching from target to target much quicker when you are trying to get a few animals before they react. They make a big difference.
Especially on an autoloading centrefire, you only have to recover your sight picture and and find the next target.
There's more to it than having a brake and minimizing recoil, you have to have the best possible FOV optic (forget it if you like big high power scopes with tiny FOV) and have a picture in your mind where the targets are before lining up the first one, so you can switch.
And you gotta have hearing protection. Electronic muffs are great when in a buggy or vehicle.

They are even useful on a 223. Allow you to watch a hit strike home every time if you have good technique.

If you don't need one, don't use one. They have a place, and people have a choice.

[deye243]

Coming from a time when I had centerfire auto rifles way back I don't by this getting back on target stuff as under recoil you train yourself to cycle the bolt so it's no quicker unless you're fighting the clock.
in real world culling or if it's just killing s**t I don't see the advantage .
I've got a tikka tact A1 in 260R and so does a mate but he has a Terminator brake easily one of the most efficient in the world and I can't get any more shots on target at 767y with his rifle than mine yeah I know I'm not a world class shooter but I can get 5 on target in 8 secs on ave but it's a torso target which is big .

[Jorlcrin]

I'm considering getting one for my 6.5CM in the 3 vent format.

I was wondering if anyone has one or has fired one and how they found it?

Also, in before comments about not needing a muzzle brake for a 6.5. I know I don't *need* one, but I'm aiming to make this rifle (and myself) as accurate as possible. So if mitigating the already relatively light recoil contributes to that then I'm willing to invest.

I like having brakes on my larger calibers.
I do zero range shooting, so I'm not concerned about annoying fellow shooters.
But I do appreciate the reduced recoil my braked rifles bring, when shooting from a rest.
For ME, I find they often allow me to see my shot hit(hunting), but also get my reticle back on target quicker, for the next shot(if needed).

I also found I went down the brake path with my Tikka T3 7mm-08(Stainless Hunter Fluted), as the recoil was kicking me around too much.
I was taking a heavy dose of Warfarin at the time, and the brake took the edge off it enough to minimise the bruising.
Brake on that rifle reduces felt recoil to slightly more than shooting a .223, which was pleasant, albeit much louder.
[But I'm wearing heavy muffs anyway, so not an issue..]
Even post-Warfarin, I find that rifle a very pleasant rifle to shoot because of the brake.

My other braked rifle is a Ruger Precision (20" barrel) in .308.
Tossed the supplied Ruger Hybrid brake, and replaced it with an APA 'Fat Bastard' brake, and it works really well.
It has made the rifle much louder, and the blast is now a felt pressure wave, but the reduced felt recoil has made for some great follow-up shots(from a rest).

I have another threaded rifle that I dont run a brake on (T3x CTR in .223), as I dont find .223 warrants it.

As far as those 4AW brakes, I'm not sure I'd buy one, myself.
I have a preference for the round-profile brakes; I just wonder if the blocky shape 4AW would be a bugger getting hung up on things at the worst moment?
[Thats my take on MY average shooting scenarios..]
But then I'm looking at rifles that are easy to get in/out of the ute, rather than predominantly range use.

Brakes are a 'personal choice' thing(aside from fellow range-user considerations), and worst case, you sell it off afterwards if it doesnt float your boat.

[Coxy383]

Probably help alot when shooting 2 miles which is what they are built for. Anything else probably overkill

[Wapiti]

Coming from a time when I had centerfire auto rifles way back I don't by this getting back on target stuff as under recoil you train yourself to cycle the bolt so it's no quicker unless you're fighting the clock.
in real world culling or if it's just killing s**t I don't see the advantage .
I've got a tikka tact A1 in 260R and so does a mate but he has a Terminator brake easily one of the most efficient in the world and I can't get any more shots on target at 767y with his rifle than mine yeah I know I'm not a world class shooter but I can get 5 on target in 8 secs on ave but it's a torso target which is big .

Each to his own mate. It always depends on personal experiences.
You don't reckon an obvious felt reduction in muzzle jump helps with quicker target acquisition?
When it's fixing things that cost lots of potential suffering and financial losses, I'll take the advantage over anyone else's opinion that's not affected. But I'm not here to convince anyone or try and win an internet argument.
You are "fighting the clock" when a pair of stock killer dogs is bolting for the scrub. Miss the chance and the escapee is 10x harder to ever see again.

OP says he wants quicker target acquisition between shots, and he's dead right, that's what a good brake will do.

[WilMacHit]

I'm considering getting one for my 6.5CM in the 3 vent format.

I was wondering if anyone has one or has fired one and how they found it?

Also, in before comments about not needing a muzzle brake for a 6.5. I know I don't *need* one, but I'm aiming to make this rifle (and myself) as accurate as possible. So if mitigating the already relatively light recoil contributes to that then I'm willing to invest.

Hi mate,
I have the muzzle brake your asking on my Remington 700 7mm rem-mag, it made a huge difference to how the rifle handles.
Before the brake the muzzle would jump all over the bench, and after running through 40 rounds, my shoulder was sore.
After having the brake fit, I could easily keep the target in the sight, and no shoulder soreness at all.
It reduced felt recoil to less than my brothers .308, far less.

With the ports angled at 90° I get no blast in my face, though it does blow pretty hard to either side.

You will need to get it timed properly as they don't come with a locking nut.