bigrich wrote:hey fellas , thought i'd bring up this topic for a general discussion/debate on a boring good friday morning . which do you prefer and why ? i want to hear all your opinions whether it's accuracy for comps or game effectiveness . i've had a few levers in the past , marlins, winchester and rossi . the octagonal 24" rossi in 357 i had was the slickest and most accurate of the lot . but heavy . 357 marlins , not bad . i had a 44 mag marlin that was a piece of crap . very unreliable feeding even after tweaking and you'd feel a tight spot when pushing a patch through where they had stamped the marlin name on the barrel . horrible accuracy, sold it quick .
i was thinking a rossi classic , 20" barrel in 357 would be my pick. and i believe the late production are drilled for a pic rail to fit a red dot . 357 qualifies as classic caliber for comps, as well as close range field use . or is a 44 far superior in the field ?
opinions

I have .357 (Rossi) and .44 Mag (Marlin), and a .38 Special (Uberti). I haven't owned a .44-40 though I did buy dies and brass years ago expecting to end up with one at some point. I've only hunted with the lever-action .22's, I prefer the reliability and accuracy of bolt-actions. I bought levers originally to practice lever-action Silhouette, which is all about precision. The past six months though I've been concentrating on Cowboy, which is all about speed, precision wasn't a thing in the late 1800's. In Silhouette you have to hit five fairly small targets from 40m out to 100m, offhand with iron sights, and only one chance on each, no do-overs if you miss one. The 100m target is roughly 150m high by 300mm wide, and you have to knock it over so you do need some punch. In Cowboy you have to put ten bullets on large steel plates (400mm-square) at 3m to 7m as fast as you possibly can - under two seconds is a good start, and barely scraping the edge still counts as a hit. Occasionally we'll put plates at 10m for sniper practice, and for a Pat Garrett match we might have a plate way out at 35m or so, but we bring out the .30-30's and .45-70's to deal with that sucker. I found this guy that does pretty good Cowboy videos -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k1IgvxcMxaYAgreed about the Marlin design, the uncontrolled-feed allows the cartridge to float around, and even fall out of the rifle during cycling. It may be only an issue with the .44 because of the size of the cartridge, I don't know, but I wouldn't be trusting my life to a Marlin, just based on my own experience. One of the Cowboys only uses Marlins and loves them, but I think he's shooting .38's. When the Marlin runs though it is a beauty. I haven't taken it to a Cowboy match yet but I will do just to give it a run. The Marlin is my rifle of choice for dropping cows in the yard. It packs a hell of a punch and the big fat bullet stops pretty quickly. And it's not so loud that we need hearing protection so we can still hear what's happening around us. Of course, being tube fed it's a pain to load and unload so I generally load three in case I screw up a shot, then have to cycle the rifle empty before putting it down. Then load three to do the next one and so on. The 7mm-08 with the box mag is easier for that, and subsonic loads make it pleasant on the ears, but it's scoped so I don't like having it in with the cows. The Marlin was also a long frustrating effort to get it to shoot cast bullets with any degree of accuracy, and I never got it close to jacketed bullet accuracy. The biggest advantage the Marlin offers is the side-eject allows mounting a conventional scope, which can be quick-detach on a pic rail.
The Rossi 1892 is a great action. I haven't owned an original Winchester 1892 but I have used a couple. I have had quite a lot of stoppages with the Rossi but most were due to the ammo. A mate has a Chiappa 92 and also has significant feeding issues. It always seems to relate to the pair of guide rails that hang onto the case rim during feeding. These allow the front of the cartridge to flick up occasionally and then the rim is caught under the rails. A knife or screwdriver and a pair of needle-nose pliers are always good to have on hand. But when it runs it is very fast and smooth. The biggest downside for me is the work involved in stripping the guts out for cleaning, which should never be attempted in the field as there are lots of small parts to lose. I'm using the stainless 24" octagonal which is a big lump for speed shooting (especially for Rose) so I've been looking for a 16" Puma. For Silhouette though, the 24" Rossi with aperture sight in .357 Mag is my choice, it has the precision required. One issue with 1892 design is that a stoppage that prevents you closing the bolt can make it impossible to disassemble the rifle. You need to be able to close the bolt to be able to drift out the pin through the bolt via a port for disassembly. My mate's Chiappa broke the ejector and the spring locked up the action. I had to beat it to get the bolt to close enough to be able to get that pin out. It's always in the back of my mind how easily these can become a paperweight, but I'm sure there must be some way of sacrificing some component and being able to get it apart - hopefully I never have to find out. The Rossi is also the easiest to load and fire single shots as you just open the lever, drop a round into the top and close the lever.
For Cowboy I'm finding the Uberti .38 Special to be my first choice despite being more more clunky and slower than the Rossi. It has a longer throw with distinct "notches" but the controlled-feed of the lifter block makes it pretty reliable. I do have some stoppages that are generally due to the ammo but when it gets grubby I get some failures to extract which are usually easy to clear, the extractor is on the small side I think. The biggest advantage though is that I'm enjoying shooting blackpowder now and the 1866 is just so much easier to strip for cleaning. It's still painful as the guts fall out of the receiver when you open it up, and it can be fiddly getting it all back in there, but it's not complex. Mine is totally OEM but there are heaps of replacement parts you can get for these to speed them up if you want to. Loading singles has an extra step with the 1866, you open the lever, then press the lifter block down to expose the chamber, then drop a round on top, and close the lever.
The .38 and .357 are essentially the same cartridge when it comes to reloading so there's no real difference there, but the .357 does have significantly more power when loading hot for hunting or knocking big lumps of steel over. The .44 Mag does cost a bit more to reload, the brass is more expensive and you use more lead and powder. If you're scavenging lead for free that can be ignored but pistol powders are still expensive and can be difficult to get, so it is worth considering when deciding on a purchase.
.45 Colt is also another great cartridge that should be considered.
I also have the Winchester 1894, though mine is in .30-30. It's a great design as well but is a big job to disassemble for thorough cleaning, with tiny bits to lose.

- Winchester 1894 .30-30
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