savage 340 floating barrel

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savage 340 floating barrel

Post by barrafishing0 » 18 Sep 2014, 6:58 am

Hi guys,

Has anyone had experience in floating a 80's model savage 340 in 222?

It has a ring barrel holder, does this need to stay?
Winchester1300 defender pump shotgun
340 Savage 222 rem with VX1 4-12 x 40 Leopold
Steyr Scout with VX2 2-7x33 LR Leopold
Stirling .22 mod 14 with nikko Stirling 4x28
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Re: savage 340 floating barrel

Post by newsteadvic » 18 Sep 2014, 9:29 am

I have not done it myself as yet but have been looking into it.

As part of my research I found this website where a fellow sets out how he did it by forming a small brass block that became a second recoil support under the rear of the tang: http://www.leeroysramblings.com/gunsmit ... ge_340.htm
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Re: savage 340 floating barrel

Post by barrafishing0 » 18 Sep 2014, 10:14 am

Thanks, have now checked it out, seems it's a bit more in-depth than removing wood from stock. Would get a gunsmith to do that, me and a oxy on my old beast would be" no deal" thanks but.!!!great link
Winchester1300 defender pump shotgun
340 Savage 222 rem with VX1 4-12 x 40 Leopold
Steyr Scout with VX2 2-7x33 LR Leopold
Stirling .22 mod 14 with nikko Stirling 4x28
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Re: savage 340 floating barrel

Post by newsteadvic » 18 Sep 2014, 10:33 am

Yes, the trouble is that as they come the only recoil points are the barrel band and the screw in the front of the trigger guard/magazine well!

The rear screw is originally only into stock wood and does not do any work supporying the action.

Did you read the article on the 340 in the most recent SSAA Magazine?
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Re: savage 340 floating barrel

Post by 1290 » 18 Sep 2014, 10:53 am

I've never owned a 340 (only 10/110s) but from the diagram the standard setup appears to freefloat the action, not the barrel (please correct me if I've mis-interpreted the diagram).

The 2 attachment point are rear at the recoil lug (at action-barrel interface) and from at the ring that you refer to.

If you want to aid accuracy I would first work on the stock so the wood, rear of the recoil lug does not contact any part of the action/trigger/mag assemblies;

Image

So no, without modifying the action as above, you cant remove the barrel 'ring'.

Frankly, I dont thing its worth messing with it,other than my above suggestion, the idea of floating the action should theoretically aid accuracy, and 'bracing' the barrel doesnt necessarily detract from accuracy.... a free floating barrel will vibrate naturally while a fully restrained, say a sleeved barrel will not vibrate as it would be damped as such makes the shot more predictable....
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Re: savage 340 floating barrel

Post by barrafishing0 » 18 Sep 2014, 12:41 pm

Best leave it alone I think.

Thanks.
Winchester1300 defender pump shotgun
340 Savage 222 rem with VX1 4-12 x 40 Leopold
Steyr Scout with VX2 2-7x33 LR Leopold
Stirling .22 mod 14 with nikko Stirling 4x28
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Re: savage 340 floating barrel

Post by Arth » 19 Sep 2014, 1:09 pm

barrafishing0 wrote:Best leave it alone I think.


Probably for the best.

Unless is a regular bedded action and floated barrel I reckon you're best to leave them.

There are a few different ones like the Savage, Ruger American, A7 etc. that are setup a bit different. e.g. The original Ruger Hawkeye was pressure bedded and not meant to be fully floated. I read of a few guys bedding the action and floating them and making things worse...

Once you start screwing around and changing how it's mounted who knows how it might shoot.
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