bigfellascott wrote:Nice one Lindsay :- so what projectile and primer did you end up using and what case prep if any? thumbsup:
Apollo wrote:BTW....there is one big problem with a Zeiss Duralyt, well perhaps the one I helped sight in for a friend....Bloody 1/3 MOA adjustments...
Supporter wrote:I never got the 1/3 MOA adjustments either.
Just trying to be different?
Apollo wrote:bigfellascott wrote:Nice one Lindsay :- so what projectile and primer did you end up using and what case prep if any? thumbsup:
Scott, thank you but there is more work to do yet. I am impressed with this Howa. The first I have ever seen and/or shot.
I don't scrimp on money for bullets as that I believe is the workhorse of any outfit be it Hunting, Varminting or Target shooting so they are 55gr Berger Flat Base Hollow Points as I think I mentioned earlier. The Primers I used were Remington 7 1/2 to make sure they stood up to loads up the high end and I did shoot ADI Maximum suggested loads, the top end were not accurate.
Case prep, none. They were 2nd hand bought once fired milserp cases I got a long time ago from HPGS and basically just FLS the lot. They are "CJ" head stamped which is Norinco... Chinese military stuff. I have heaps of various cases pretty much the same and that is my suggestion to use out in the field. For target I'm suggesting Chris buys some Lapua as I have and use.
BTW.... my CZ527 .223R I use 52gr Berger Flat Base or 30gr Berger Flat Base as they really perform in my rifle. I mean tiny group consistancy at high velocity.
Hercl wrote:Supporter wrote:I never got the 1/3 MOA adjustments either.
Just trying to be different?
My guess would be to reduce the mechanical complexity of it. Easier to make a precise, strong, quality scope when you don't have to deliver 1/8 clicks.
The Duralyt are after all a hunting scope and not a competition scope. 1/8 or even 1/4 adjustments aren't needed for that so they've prioritized other factors.
2c.
Die Judicii wrote:Hercl wrote:Supporter wrote:I never got the 1/3 MOA adjustments either.
Just trying to be different?
My guess would be to reduce the mechanical complexity of it. Easier to make a precise, strong, quality scope when you don't have to deliver 1/8 clicks.
The Duralyt are after all a hunting scope and not a competition scope. 1/8 or even 1/4 adjustments aren't needed for that so they've prioritized other factors.
2c.
Not being a purist, ie: Target shooter,,,,,,,
I cant see what the problem is as per Apollo's comment.
I use mine purely for hunting and varminting but nevertheless,,,, I got mine zeroed (easily) and without the need to change to windage type mounts.
As for 1/3, 1/4, or 1/8 adjustments I find that to be irrelevent as long as you can achieve your zero.
Also, I quote Apollo on the following.
"The trigger on this Howa 1500 isn't too bad and light enough pull to be accurate but personally I don't like the free travel before sear release."
I dont have any free travel on mine at all, so maybe there is something amiss on the one you mention.
Mine has a 2 1/2 lb pull and is a pleasure to use.
I might get shot down here, but I speak for my own experiences
chrispy88 wrote:Being a late model Howa it has the 2 stage trigger, 1.5lb on the first stage, 0.5lb on the sear. The first 1.5lb is the free travel Lindsay is referring to. He wasnt a fan!
This is the first rifle I've owned with a 2 stage trigger and to be honest I don't really see the point either.
Die Judicii wrote:As for 1/3, 1/4, or 1/8 adjustments I find that to be irrelevent as long as you can achieve your zero.
bigfellascott wrote:Very nice mate, the stocks look bloody nice on em I reckon (way better than the plastic IMO) how do you find the bolt clearance with the Meopta? (I would look at get a Meopta one day when and if I need another scope)
CustomPC wrote:bigfellascott wrote:Very nice mate, the stocks look bloody nice on em I reckon (way better than the plastic IMO) how do you find the bolt clearance with the Meopta? (I would look at get a Meopta one day when and if I need another scope)
Those are medium mounts and there is about 6mm clearance between bolt and scope. It doesn't feel too bad when cycling the action at home. I'll reserve my full judgement until after i've used it some.
I've tried it it some DNZ low rings which are about 2mm lower than these and that is probably too close but it still clears the scope.
CustomPC wrote:I've tried it it some DNZ low rings which are about 2mm lower than these and that is probably too close but it still clears the scope.
Zilla wrote:CustomPC wrote:I've tried it it some DNZ low rings which are about 2mm lower than these and that is probably too close but it still clears the scope.
Hitting the back of your thumb on the scope I expect with them?
bigfellascott wrote:I don't use my fingers to open and close the bolt, I just use my palm of the hand.
SendIt wrote:bigfellascott wrote:I don't use my fingers to open and close the bolt, I just use my palm of the hand.
Same.
Lift with the palm up from the bottom and pull the bolt back, roll the hand over to push forward.
Never need to actually grip the bolt.
Herdsman wrote:Smoother too.
Doing it as above it's like you slide from opening through to closing it again.
Rather than thunk, thunk, thunk or gripping it. If you know what I mean.......