Howa

[Mongrel]

Well finally got my new toy and some cleaning accessories to start me off

Howa

howa1.jpg (451.86 KiB) Viewed 6636 times

range time yet lol

start of obsession.jpg (694.82 KiB) Viewed 6636 times

Thanks to everyone for helping out with decision, gonna watch some youtube on how to clean to rifle and hopefully shoot it this weekend
only issue i can think of though is they didnt have any bronze brushes in stock...will i need to use one before firing or cleaning with patches ok?

Happy mongrel

[MalleeFarmer]

What Cal did you get it in Mate? I'm sure the Howa won't dissapoint!! I have a couple.

[Die Judicii]

It's a HOWA mate, so I'd go so far as to say no.
Just a quick wipe thru with a patch and solvent to get rid of any oil etc.
Then mop till dry and clear.

You won't regret getting a Howa.

Horrific On Wild Animals

[Mongrel]

What Cal did you get it in Mate? I'm sure the Howa won't dissapoint!! I have a couple.

Got it in 308 mate, cant wait to test it out

It's a HOWA mate, so I'd go so far as to say no.
Just a quick wipe thru with a patch and solvent to get rid of any oil etc.
Then mop till dry and clear.

You won't regret getting a Howa.

Horrific On Wild Animals

Cheers Die, by solvent do u mean boretech "Eliminator" bore cleaner? coz thats all i got besides Ballistol?
Also do i need to clean out the action, bolt and exterior before use aswel?

[Oldbloke]

I would be jeleous except I got a marlin.
They are a nice rifle no doubt about it. Just too heavy for me and I dont like the stocks. Enjoy.

Ps. What scope did u get?

[MalleeFarmer]

I wouldn't stress about the exterior or the bolt as long as you clean out the chamber and bore main reason is if there is exess oil from storage and you don't clean and swab it out you could end up with at best nothing wrong but at worst a bulged bore or even a catastrophic failure depending on how much oil/grease is in the bore. Bolt and exterior small issue. Ensure the chamber is clean and free of an oil at all as oil in the chamber puts excess stress on the bolt as the casings can't grip the chamber walls during firing. Happy Shooting..

[Mongrel]

I would be jeleous except I got a marlin.
They are a nice rifle no doubt about it. Just too heavy for me and I dont like the stocks. Enjoy.

Ps. What scope did u get?

LOL i was so close to getting a marlin, but ended up with a howa
It has a bit of weight in it, not sure if its standard or heavy barrel...but it aint too heavy as it sits naked.
Dont have a scope as yet, had to buy cleaning stuff to look after it, scope will have to wait unfortunately


Mongrel

[Die Judicii]

Just look at it,,,,,,,
If its got metal filings/chips etc left in it (sorry, I was thinking Marlin) then give it a clean otherwise just check that its lubed in all the right places.

When I said "solvent" even a bit of metho would do the job. Just be careful not to dribble it anywhere other than in the barrel.

As it is a new rifle, don't buy expensive ammo for it straight up. (Your only running it in 1st up)
Get basic stuff like Highland etc, and see how it performs.

I did that with my first Howa, and was amazed how accurate it was from word go.
Wasn't till after 300 rnds had been thru it that I bought some of the expensive fodder, and thought Wow, this is gunna be superb.
You know what ?? It made not one bit of difference, and all I did was waste my money.
So I went back to the Highland ammo that I still use in it today.

[MalleeFarmer]

Just look at it,,,,,,,
If its got metal filings/chips etc left in it (sorry, I was thinking Marlin) then give it a clean otherwise just check that its lubed in all the right places.

[Wm.Traynor]

I don't think I realized how close you were to getting your rifle.
If you wanted to, you could put some molybdenum disulphide grease on your bolt lugs and the cocking cam of the bolt.
Shocked that you could not get a bronze brush. What is the world coming to Try to order a couple.

[Mongrel]

Just look at it,,,,,,,
If its got metal filings/chips etc left in it (sorry, I was thinking Marlin) then give it a clean otherwise just check that its lubed in all the right places.

When I said "solvent" even a bit of metho would do the job. Just be careful not to dribble it anywhere other than in the barrel.

As it is a new rifle, don't buy expensive ammo for it straight up. (Your only running it in 1st up)
Get basic stuff like Highland etc, and see how it performs.

I did that with my first Howa, and was amazed how accurate it was from word go.
Wasn't till after 300 rnds had been thru it that I bought some of the expensive fodder, and thought Wow, this is gunna be superb.
You know what ?? It made not one bit of difference, and all I did was waste my money.
So I went back to the Highland ammo that I still use in it today.

Cheers mate, i will head to bunnings tomorow and grab some metho to clean it out and i will make sure the receiver has no oil on it either.
But if i dont plan on shooting for say 2 weeks then its a good idea to oil it up?

And i love your comment on Marlin ....that will surely get a laught

[Gamerancher]

It's all in front of you now Mongrel. I might cop some flak here but you really should break in that barrel. I know you'll be keen to get stuck into shooting it but a bit of care now will pay dividends in the long run. Basic procedure: Fire 1 shot, clean. fire 1 shot ,clean.....repeat at least 10 times. Then you can move on to strings of 2 shots between cleaning. Do that 5 times. If it is cleaning out well, as in only takes a few patches, you can start shooting strings of 5 shots. If it starts coming clean with only a few patches you're there. Main thing is to make sure you get it totally clean each time and not to get the barrel hot. My procedure is wet patch ( Hoppes No.9) dry patch, and repeat until the dry patch is clean. After 2 wet/2 dry patches I usually run a copper solvent through (Sweets) then dry patch and repeat until there is no sign of copper or fouling. This is quite tedious, but you can be sighting it in at the same time. After that you can run maybe 20-40 shots between cleaning. Always check the bore before replacing the bolt as any cloth or even threads left behind can destroy the barrel. As someone above has said, always make sure you have a dry chamber and bore. Any moisture (oil) in the barrel can act as an obstruction under the pressures involved. Sorry to be so long winded but I think the above advice will help you get the best out of your new rifle. There will be those that will tell you that I'm full of it and it's not necessary to do all that,well to each his own. I know three barrel makers personally and that's where this comes from. After all, you wouldn't take your brand new car out and redline the engine for the first few hours, would you?

[MalleeFarmer]

If you're not going to be using for a couple of weeks leave the manufacturers oil in there until you're going to as it's designed to stop corrosion in storage over long periods of time. Just clean out before use. Otherwise you can clean out now so you don't forget and give it a light lube with G96 or any Triple Action gun solvent/lube before putting it away

[Oldbloke]

Just look at it,,,,,,,
If its got metal filings/chips etc left in it (sorry, I was thinking Marlin) then give it a clean otherwise just check that its lubed in all the right places.

When I said "solvent" even a bit of metho would do the job. Just be careful not to dribble it anywhere other than in the barrel.

As it is a new rifle, don't buy expensive ammo for it straight up. (Your only running it in 1st up)
Get basic stuff like Highland etc, and see how it performs.

I did that with my first Howa, and was amazed how accurate it was from word go.
Wasn't till after 300 rnds had been thru it that I bought some of the expensive fodder, and thought Wow, this is gunna be superb.
You know what ?? It made not one bit of difference, and all I did was waste my money.
So I went back to the Highland ammo that I still use in it today.

I have broad shoulders (and a beer belly) so I can tke it.

[Mongrel]

I don't think I realized how close you were to getting your rifle.
If you wanted to, you could put some molybdenum disulphide grease on your bolt lugs and the cocking cam of the bolt.
Shocked that you could not get a bronze brush. What is the world coming to Try to order a couple.

Very close lol
Isnt Ballistol used for lube on bolt, barrel and everything?
And was it a brass brush or bronze that i need...Didnt matter either way as my LGS didnt have any:(
but noosa has brass ones i can get, just need to make sure i get right ones

Mongrel

It's all in front of you now Mongrel. I might cop some flak here but you really should break in that barrel. I know you'll be keen to get stuck into shooting it but a bit of care now will pay dividends in the long run. Basic procedure: Fire 1 shot, clean. fire 1 shot ,clean.....repeat at least 10 times. Then you can move on to strings of 2 shots between cleaning. Do that 5 times. If it is cleaning out well, as in only takes a few patches, you can start shooting strings of 5 shots. If it starts coming clean with only a few patches you're there. Main thing is to make sure you get it totally clean each time and not to get the barrel hot. My procedure is wet patch ( Hoppes No.9) dry patch, and repeat until the dry patch is clean. After 2 wet/2 dry patches I usually run a copper solvent through (Sweets) then dry patch and repeat until there is no sign of copper or fouling. This is quite tedious, but you can be sighting it in at the same time. After that you can run maybe 20-40 shots between cleaning. Always check the bore before replacing the bolt as any cloth or even threads left behind can destroy the barrel. As someone above has said, always make sure you have a dry chamber and bore. Any moisture (oil) in the barrel can act as an obstruction under the pressures involved. Sorry to be so long winded but I think the above advice will help you get the best out of your new rifle. There will be those that will tell you that I'm full of it and it's not necessary to do all that,well to each his own. I know three barrel makers personally and that's where this comes from. After all, you wouldn't take your brand new car out and redline the engine for the first few hours, would you?

Not long winded at all, thats pretty much the same info ive found on the net from various places...good to know that people still do it this way.
I have been told that its not necessary these days but better safe than sry.

Mongrel

[Die Judicii]

Even IF breaking in a barrel doesnt do anything, its a small price to pay.
So do it anyway.
When I said metho, I would use the proper bore solvent in preference. I only meant if you couldnt get the correct stuff, you could use metho.
I didnt notice before tapping this out, but a stainless barrell is easier to keep clean of copper fouling unlike blued.
ENJOY.

[Mongrel]

Even IF breaking in a barrel doesnt do anything, its a small price to pay.
So do it anyway.
When I said metho, I would use the proper bore solvent in preference. I only meant if you couldnt get the correct stuff, you could use metho.
I didnt notice before tapping this out, but a stainless barrell is easier to keep clean of copper fouling unlike blued.
ENJOY.

proper solvent is ???
metho i can get tomorow from bunnings but LGS shuts at 12 so i wont be able to get there till atleast thursday

[Oldbloke]

Have a look here.

https://www.ssaa.org.au/stories/hints-tips.html

[Mongrel]

Have a look here.

https://www.ssaa.org.au/stories/hints-tips.html

Cheers

[happyhunter]

I didnt notice before tapping this out, but a stainless barrell is easier to keep clean of copper fouling unlike blued.
ENJOY.

..and you base this claim on?

[MalleeFarmer]

I didnt notice before tapping this out, but a stainless barrell is easier to keep clean of copper fouling unlike blued.
ENJOY.

..and you base this claim on?

I think it depends entirely on the quality and finish of the barrel. I personally think any difference is perceived and not really verifiable. In my opinion a quality Custom Chromoly barrel such as a krieger would be easier to clean than say a stainless Ruger barrel.

[Wm.Traynor]

Mongrel
I'll bet your head is spinning from all this advice. Mine is just from re-reading all the posts to make sure of what everyone was saying.

Ballistol.........goes in the bore for short term rust protection
Metho will clean out the factory preservative

Don't put oil in the action or the bolt. It can be transferred to the cartridges in the magazine. Oil on the case can increase backthrust on the bolt lugs.
Brass or bronze brushes........they'll know what you mean Come to think of it, I really don't know which is the correct expression. I have been using both all my life

[Gamerancher]

I think they are Phosphor-bronze.

[Wm.Traynor]

I think they are Phosphor-bronze.

[bigfellascott]

Don't forget to put a light smear of grease on the bolt lugs too wipe ya bolt and action over with oil after each shooting session along with all other metal parts to help prevent rust etc (stainless steel isn't rustless steel) so don't make the mistake many make and think it won't rust, it will if you neglect it over time, I use Lanox for all my metal parts and it's been great, good ol sewing machine oil does a great job too (used it for around 30yrs now) so no need to be conned into thinking you have to use some "Firearms Specific" oil as it's all BS!

[Mongrel]

Mongrel
I'll bet your head is spinning from all this advice.

You got no idea lol
Really appreciate it though so thanks all.
I will head to bunnings tomorow to get some metho but if i dont use gun tonorow i will put ballistol through it. Do i ckean out ballistol before use? Or that light smear eobt do harm?

[bigfellascott]

Yeah remove any oil from the bore before use and replace once ready to put away.

[happyhunter]

Cleaning a rifle is nowhere as complicated as some people are making it out to be. Just remember things like bronze brushes wear out so replace them often as it will save time when cleaning your rifle. When you use copper solvents, they will break down the copper in the brushes alloy so a couple nylon brushes and a no-trace jag will be handy.

For cleaning my 308 I have this in the kit,
1. A bronze brush plus a couple spare.
2. A couple nylon bore brushes.
3. One piece cleaning rod.
4. One brass jag and one no-trace jag (no-trace for applying copper solvent)
5. Roll of cotton material to cut my own patches from

If you use bronze or brass components to apply and remove copper solvent you will get false copper reading, hence the no-trace jag and nylon brush for the applying/swabbing out copper solvent.

[Mongrel]

Cleaning a rifle is nowhere as complicated as some people are making it out to be. Just remember things like bronze brushes wear out so replace them often as it will save time when cleaning your rifle. When you use copper solvents, they will break down the copper in the brushes alloy so a couple nylon brushes and a no-trace jag will be handy.

For cleaning my 308 I have this in the kit,
1. A bronze brush plus a couple spare.
2. A couple nylon bore brushes.
3. One piece cleaning rod.
4. One brass jag and one no-trace jag (no-trace for applying copper solvent)
5. Roll of cotton material to cut my own patches from

If you use bronze or brass components to apply and remove copper solvent you will get false copper reading, hence the no-trace jag and nylon brush for the applying/swabbing out copper solvent.

Cheers

[NukeBOMB88]

I've got two HOWA rifles and I love em, with all my rifles I just clean the barrel out before I shoot it and then after that ... Never again . Doesn't seem to hurt them and all my rifles shoot under 1 MOA