Mauser k98

[django]

Hello im new to the forum i would like to know if anyone can tell me about my Mauser besides it being a 9.3 x 62 i would like to know more about wich factory it came from and the gunsmith robert lissner if anyone can help me or guide me in the right direction would really appreciate it thank you.

[Old Fart]

Tell you about your Mauser?

Where did you get his name and "master gunsmith" title from if you didn't already know about it?

[django]

more want to know what year it was made and witch factory it came from

[Baldrick314]

Tell you about your Mauser?

Where did you get his name and "master gunsmith" title from if you didn't already know about it?

There was a link to an ad originally but it looks like it's disappeared

[Blackened]

There was a link to an ad originally but it looks like it's disappeared

It's our understanding that only dealers may advertise firearms for sale in Victoria. I removed the link to the other website because of this. (There wasn't any additional information in the link anyway.)

I know other websites advertise them with no problems, but we're not going to condone such things here. What other websites do is up to them.

Sorry, but thems the breaks.

[Blackened]

About the original question though.

Is there any additional information you have django other than the gunsmith?

These were made in the millions in many places.

Got any old docs for it? Any identifying information on the action or stock at all?

Anything other than the smiths name?

[Baldrick314]

There was a link to an ad originally but it looks like it's disappeared

It's our understanding that only dealers may advertise firearms for sale in Victoria. I removed the link to the other website because of this. (There wasn't any additional information in the link anyway.)

I know other websites advertise them with no problems, but we're not going to condone such things here. What other websites do is up to them.

Sorry, but thems the breaks.

No worries . Another case of laws that don't actually help anyone?

[Berper]

Another case of laws that don't actually help anyone?

C'mon, there are non of those.......

[Baldrick314]

Another case of laws that don't actually help anyone?

C'mon, there are non of those.......

I'm sure it's just a one off. I mean you never hear of our fine law makers creating laws that make no sense or have huge blindspots in them. Especially not where firearms are concerned

[Bourt]

Now now. They're trying their best...

[django]

sorry all i have got is the serial 2393 the whole gun has been sporterized no other markings nothing just curious to know more about it that's all thanks for your help

[dustin]

If you take the action out of the stock is there nothing, even if tiny, stamped on the inside there?

Did a bit of a Google, apparently they made 14,000,000 of these over 10 years in a dozen places by different people.

Just a serial number is going to be impossible I reckon

[5Tom]

the only way to identify any ex-military rifle are by stampings. They will usually have a year of manufacture and some type of unique marking to identify the place of manufacture, even the style of stock for K98's can tell which era or model it is.

You need to post pictures.

There could be a chance the stock has been remade and the gunsmith has destroyed any significant markings on the rifle.. A good way to kill history.

[hootshoot]

Have another look mate. Some of the stampings are like 1/4 the size of a a finger nail. Easy to miss if you weren't looking.

[Squiddy]

Ahoy, resurrecting an old thread here....

Just picked up a 1942 Russian capture K98. Metal work is fine apart from a few scrapes and dings, the stock is in pretty good condition.

This being said the stock is covered in the Russian shellac and I am toying with the idea of taking it apart, stripping the stock down, re finishing in linseed/turps and giving all the parts a thorough clean and touch up with the bluing paste.

Just wondering if refinishing the stock would harm the resale one day? I wouldn't be sanding off serial numbers etc, just restoring the stock to the original finish.

[GLS_1956]

Unless yours is different most of the Soviet captured/rebuilt K98s are roughly refinished, and have had many marking defaced, since most had Nazi relationship. So I can't see how refinishing the stock would hurt it's value.

[No1Mk3]

G'day Squiddy,
Captured arms are perfectly collectible items, think of the 1866 Chassepot bayonet captured by Germany, modified and reissued to their troops, as well as the Finns capture and reissue of Mosin Nagants. As the rifle left the Soviet arsenal is how it is desired by collectors and any changes will be reflected in a discounted value. From a non-collector viewpoint, taking it back towards German issue condition may make you feel better, but the rifle won't be what it was, or supposed to be. Non-collectors may still pay a good price as K98k's are still making good money, but as a collector I would personally devalue my bids by 40% at least, Cheers.

[Squiddy]

Hmmmmmm..... Both good points.

[<<Genesis93>>]

Soviet (strictly speaking not 'Russian' per se) capture Mausers (German or Austrian manufacture) will always retain their value, period. Not as much as 'sniper' or non defaced/ non 'arsenaled' examples ie with Nazi markings, numbers, eagles and all....

Although its hard to say whether you'll be doing the rifle justice without PICS, I'd say take the varnish off and oil the stock..... who want varnish anyway! if No1 doesnt want it - I'll take it...

Just out of interest, there are several k98 variants, most likely yours is k98k....karabiner (model 1898) Kurz,
karabiner mean carbine as opposed to the old school loooong rifles..
and Kurz means 'short' carbine....' with its short carbine 600mm barrel,
although I believe karabiner variants may have come with both rifle and carbine length barrels.....so work that out!

[<<Genesis93>>]

k98b


k98a


k98k

[juststarting]

Squiddy, wiping it with a acetone rag will get rid of all shellac in 15 minutes. To strip, use organic citri strip (Masters has it). Then, some organic degreaser and toothbrush or some stiff bristel plastic brush and hot water. It will get the wood to almost its original state. Follow with 400 sandpaper and smooth it out with 000 steel wool. This will preserve all markings.

The bluing on the bolt I am told is just paint. More steel wool, maybe do a small area first, and you will get more markings coming up.

I would use 6+ coats of Tru Oil, Clayton sells it for $15, it's partially linseed, but has other chemicals, I suspect some polyurethane, to protect the wood a lot better.

[juststarting]

P.s. do not send it untill it's 100% dry or the dust will act as a gap sealer and you will fill all the markings.

[Squiddy]

I think its a k98k.

I think I'm going to restore the stock back to original. I'd say the biggest problem is disassembly and reassembly - Not sure if I trust myself to do it.

Especially with the band on the front of the barrel/stock. I wonder how much taking it apart and putting it back together will affect the accuracy??

I'd say whoever the previous owners were used some hard core cleaners on it because the eagle stampings are beginning to look faded.

Juststarting - is this the process you're talking about? He doesn't use acetone though...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p21MKDi3r8o

[juststarting]

Only fom the point he sands and stains it - yes. Beginning, you wont find krudd kutter in stores here, I tried. Just take your time and you'll be fine. There is a lot of waiting for stuff to dry... Put some acetone on a rag and start wiping. Wear gloves. Do it outside. 15 minutes and it will be shellac free. Rest should be done inside. Citri strip for an hour immediately after, to avoid acetone dehydrating the wood. Then brush, boiling water and start scrubbing. Rest of the process is the same as that video.

You will see some fibers coming up, whiskers, after you finish scrubbing it, this is why you need 400 grit sand paper and steel wool.

[Squiddy]

Soooooo, I had the barrel/action out when I started the stock restoration and started giving the metal work a good clean.

I've got some hoppes bench rest copper solvent, I put through a wet patch, waited 25 mins, and about 30 wet patches later they're still dark blue and green.

I understand this is probably common with ex military rifles, but how many patches is this going to take?

[juststarting]

I don't think you should be running so many wet patches with what I assume to be copper solvent through the bore. Also, did you use a brush in between? And, you should always have some copper in the bore (it's a good thing), so you will always get some turquoise colour. Perhaps, after 20 min of copper solvent, run brush through it, maybe one more wet patch and dry patches after that? Don't think running strong solvent through the bore that much is a good idea.

[Chronos]

Is the stock walnut or laminated? If it's laminated I'd avoid acetone as it may weaken the glue in the laminate

I recently cleaned up an Israeli Mauser in a laminated stock. What you might find is the bedding at both the tang and the recoil lug need repair. My stock was cracked from the rear action screw down into the wrist so I wedged open and decreased it all then glued it with epoxy and clamped it all back together.


At the recoil lug what happens is if the action screws come loose the action flogs on the cross bolt and damaged the timber there. I reglued the timber around the cross bolt as well then when it was all set I cleaner it up and sanded the entire stock. Just deciding what to coat it with but stabilising the stock made a big difference to accuracy

Chronos

[juststarting]

Chronos, do you think swapping acetone for methylated spirits would work? Should be the same result, I think? Though I haven't worked with laminate so I don't know for sure.

[Squiddy]

I think it's a laminate.

It's hung up to dry at the moment, no visible cracks. Lugs and plugs all look good and are not loose.

Going to sand very lightly with 400 grit and steel wool shortly.

What stain do I use?

Also, is tru oil considered a no no? Am I better of doing a stain then a blend of 50-50 acetone and BLO?

[Chronos]

Also about the bore, it'll take weeks of scrubbing to remove all sign of copper from the bore. To be honest I wouldn't bother. The bore is most likely in such poor condition it'll shoot poorly until it coppers up again. When I got mine I had a go at cleaning it. Gave up after a week of letting it soak overnight in Boretech Cu and patching it out before a scrub and another soak

Some guys run moly coated bullets in an attempt to smooth out the bore but it's hardly worth it. Mine shoots A4 sized groups at 300m with iron sights and that's certainly for for purpose for a service rifle

Chronos