Mauser k98

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Re: Mauser k98

Post by <<Genesis93>> » 05 Apr 2016, 9:19 am

Soviet (strictly speaking not 'Russian' per se) capture Mausers (German or Austrian manufacture) will always retain their value, period. Not as much as 'sniper' or non defaced/ non 'arsenaled' examples ie with Nazi markings, numbers, eagles and all....

Although its hard to say whether you'll be doing the rifle justice without PICS, I'd say take the varnish off and oil the stock..... who want varnish anyway! if No1 doesnt want it - I'll take it...

Just out of interest, there are several k98 variants, most likely yours is k98k....karabiner (model 1898) Kurz,
karabiner mean carbine as opposed to the old school loooong rifles..
and Kurz means 'short' carbine....' with its short carbine 600mm barrel,
although I believe karabiner variants may have come with both rifle and carbine length barrels.....so work that out!
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Re: Mauser k98

Post by <<Genesis93>> » 05 Apr 2016, 9:28 am

k98b
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k98a
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k98k
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Re: Mauser k98

Post by juststarting » 05 Apr 2016, 10:37 am

Squiddy, wiping it with a acetone rag will get rid of all shellac in 15 minutes. To strip, use organic citri strip (Masters has it). Then, some organic degreaser and toothbrush or some stiff bristel plastic brush and hot water. It will get the wood to almost its original state. Follow with 400 sandpaper and smooth it out with 000 steel wool. This will preserve all markings.

The bluing on the bolt I am told is just paint. More steel wool, maybe do a small area first, and you will get more markings coming up.

I would use 6+ coats of Tru Oil, Clayton sells it for $15, it's partially linseed, but has other chemicals, I suspect some polyurethane, to protect the wood a lot better.
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Re: Mauser k98

Post by juststarting » 05 Apr 2016, 10:39 am

P.s. do not send it untill it's 100% dry or the dust will act as a gap sealer and you will fill all the markings.
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Re: Mauser k98

Post by Squiddy » 05 Apr 2016, 1:34 pm

I think its a k98k.

I think I'm going to restore the stock back to original. I'd say the biggest problem is disassembly and reassembly - Not sure if I trust myself to do it.

Especially with the band on the front of the barrel/stock. I wonder how much taking it apart and putting it back together will affect the accuracy??

I'd say whoever the previous owners were used some hard core cleaners on it because the eagle stampings are beginning to look faded.

Juststarting - is this the process you're talking about? He doesn't use acetone though...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p21MKDi3r8o
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Re: Mauser k98

Post by juststarting » 05 Apr 2016, 1:56 pm

Only fom the point he sands and stains it - yes. Beginning, you wont find krudd kutter in stores here, I tried. Just take your time and you'll be fine. There is a lot of waiting for stuff to dry... Put some acetone on a rag and start wiping. Wear gloves. Do it outside. 15 minutes and it will be shellac free. Rest should be done inside. Citri strip for an hour immediately after, to avoid acetone dehydrating the wood. Then brush, boiling water and start scrubbing. Rest of the process is the same as that video.

You will see some fibers coming up, whiskers, after you finish scrubbing it, this is why you need 400 grit sand paper and steel wool.
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Re: Mauser k98

Post by Squiddy » 09 Apr 2016, 9:20 pm

Soooooo, I had the barrel/action out when I started the stock restoration and started giving the metal work a good clean.

I've got some hoppes bench rest copper solvent, I put through a wet patch, waited 25 mins, and about 30 wet patches later they're still dark blue and green.

I understand this is probably common with ex military rifles, but how many patches is this going to take?
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Re: Mauser k98

Post by juststarting » 10 Apr 2016, 12:54 am

I don't think you should be running so many wet patches with what I assume to be copper solvent through the bore. Also, did you use a brush in between? And, you should always have some copper in the bore (it's a good thing), so you will always get some turquoise colour. Perhaps, after 20 min of copper solvent, run brush through it, maybe one more wet patch and dry patches after that? Don't think running strong solvent through the bore that much is a good idea.
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Re: Mauser k98

Post by Chronos » 10 Apr 2016, 9:26 am

Is the stock walnut or laminated? If it's laminated I'd avoid acetone as it may weaken the glue in the laminate

I recently cleaned up an Israeli Mauser in a laminated stock. What you might find is the bedding at both the tang and the recoil lug need repair. My stock was cracked from the rear action screw down into the wrist so I wedged open and decreased it all then glued it with epoxy and clamped it all back together.


At the recoil lug what happens is if the action screws come loose the action flogs on the cross bolt and damaged the timber there. I reglued the timber around the cross bolt as well then when it was all set I cleaner it up and sanded the entire stock. Just deciding what to coat it with but stabilising the stock made a big difference to accuracy

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Re: Mauser k98

Post by juststarting » 10 Apr 2016, 9:58 am

Chronos, do you think swapping acetone for methylated spirits would work? Should be the same result, I think? Though I haven't worked with laminate so I don't know for sure.
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Re: Mauser k98

Post by Squiddy » 10 Apr 2016, 10:04 am

I think it's a laminate.

It's hung up to dry at the moment, no visible cracks. Lugs and plugs all look good and are not loose.

Going to sand very lightly with 400 grit and steel wool shortly.

What stain do I use?

Also, is tru oil considered a no no? Am I better of doing a stain then a blend of 50-50 acetone and BLO?
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Re: Mauser k98

Post by Chronos » 10 Apr 2016, 10:05 am

Also about the bore, it'll take weeks of scrubbing to remove all sign of copper from the bore. To be honest I wouldn't bother. The bore is most likely in such poor condition it'll shoot poorly until it coppers up again. When I got mine I had a go at cleaning it. Gave up after a week of letting it soak overnight in Boretech Cu and patching it out before a scrub and another soak

Some guys run moly coated bullets in an attempt to smooth out the bore but it's hardly worth it. Mine shoots A4 sized groups at 300m with iron sights and that's certainly for for purpose for a service rifle

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Re: Mauser k98

Post by juststarting » 10 Apr 2016, 10:09 am

It's all on! Lovely day for a laundry :D
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Re: Mauser k98

Post by Squiddy » 10 Apr 2016, 10:18 am

Also is it even worth doing the 400 grit sandpaper? The fine steel wool seems to be working fine.

Do I stain or just tru oil or linseed oil?

Which stain if so?
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Re: Mauser k98

Post by juststarting » 10 Apr 2016, 11:40 am

Absolutely no need for sandpaper if you can avoid it.

If you like the finish, I guess you could just oil... Stain is just for colour. Unless someone corrects me.
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Re: Mauser k98

Post by Squiddy » 10 Apr 2016, 12:00 pm

I've been looking at images of the lighter colour finishes and I'm not a fan.

Gonna go get some minwax special walnut now.
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Re: Mauser k98

Post by AZZA'S HJ47 » 10 Apr 2016, 3:06 pm

Awaiting picks
Sako Varmint 243,Marlin 917, Lithgow La101 .22 , 1917 BSA 303 (ted), Finnish Vkt 1944 M39,T3X Super Varmint 223, Marlin 1895 SBL 45-70 Howa 1500 308, BSA CF2 222, 1911 9mm, Adler 12G, Sako 7mm rem Mag,Ruger m77 mk1 22-250AI, Rem 700 17 Rem, BSA No 5 303
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Re: Mauser k98

Post by Squiddy » 10 Apr 2016, 5:43 pm

After the walnut stain, its still drying.

How much darker will the tru oil turn the stock?
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Re: Mauser k98

Post by GLS_1956 » 11 Apr 2016, 4:25 am

My M48 Yugoslav Mauser, bought about 8 years ago from Mitchell's Mausers, has a rather blond stock, they claimed it was "teak" but I doubt it. I like it, it looks good.
I've been asked: "How many guns do you need to have?" My answer remains the same: "One more."
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Re: Mauser k98

Post by Squiddy » 11 Apr 2016, 9:35 am

My understanding is they used Walnut & Beech to make the german stocks in WW2.

I may give it a light sand with steel wool later today, as I dont want it too dark from the tru oil coats.
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Re: Mauser k98

Post by Chronos » 11 Apr 2016, 10:01 am

Squiddy wrote:My understanding is they used Walnut & Beech to make the german stocks in WW2.

I may give it a light sand with steel wool later today, as I dont want it too dark from the tru oil coats.


They also used these laminated blanks during the way when supplies of walnut dried up. The Germans even experimented with fibreglass. One of the fibreglass K98k appeared for sale here in Oz a few years back for over $10K

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Re: Mauser k98

Post by Squiddy » 11 Apr 2016, 11:22 am

I've noticed K98 sight hoods for sale on ebay - does anyone know if I could purchase one and bring it into the country without having to apply for permits etc?
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Re: Mauser k98

Post by juststarting » 11 Apr 2016, 9:39 pm

How did you go with oiling your wood :D
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Re: Mauser k98

Post by Squiddy » 12 Apr 2016, 9:26 am

Picking up the tru oil today.

At least 3 coats inc drying time.... may be finished tonight or tomorrow?
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Re: Mauser k98

Post by Squiddy » 13 Apr 2016, 7:45 am

Finished last night.

Prefer it over the shellac and happy with the colour.
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Re: Mauser k98

Post by GLS_1956 » 13 Apr 2016, 2:28 pm

Nice
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Re: Mauser k98

Post by juststarting » 13 Apr 2016, 3:02 pm

What's next? :)
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Re: Mauser k98

Post by Squiddy » 13 Apr 2016, 3:20 pm

Maybe one of those non drill and tap scope mounts?
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Re: Mauser k98

Post by <<Genesis93>> » 13 Apr 2016, 3:40 pm

Squiddy wrote:Maybe one of those non drill and tap scope mounts?


If you put a scope on that I'll contact your wife and ask her to slap you.

:D :unknown:
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Re: Mauser k98

Post by Squiddy » 13 Apr 2016, 3:56 pm

<<Genesis93>> wrote:
Squiddy wrote:Maybe one of those non drill and tap scope mounts?


If you put a scope on that I'll contact your wife and ask her to slap you.

:D :unknown:


No drill or tap! Can get a scope mount that fits onto the rear site and wont compromise the integrity of the rifle.

Issue is it needs to be a long eye relief (pistol scope)....
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