in2anity wrote:BACKGROUND INFO: I use an m1907 style loop sling on my walnut la101 22lr, therefore I'm forced to use extra wide (1 1/4") sling swivels attached to the studs. Using the sling constantly puts rotational changes on the front stud, and I can see the stud threading into the walnut starting to degrade. I want to put a halt to this.
QUESTION: is there a stud/swivel interface that freely rotates that I can place in-between the stud and the sling swivel? Does such a thing even exist?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated,
In2.
bladeracer wrote:These mount directly into your wood.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hunting-Gun-Accessories-Push-Button-Detachable-Gun-Sling-Swivel-for-Bolt-Rifle-/252679349324
in2anity wrote:bladeracer wrote:These mount directly into your wood.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hunting-Gun-Accessories-Push-Button-Detachable-Gun-Sling-Swivel-for-Bolt-Rifle-/252679349324
Thanks BR. Can you explain how they "mount directly into your wood"? Do you have to replace the factory stud?
in2anity wrote:bladeracer wrote:These mount directly into your wood.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hunting-Gun-Accessories-Push-Button-Detachable-Gun-Sling-Swivel-for-Bolt-Rifle-/252679349324
Thanks BR. Can you explain how they "mount directly into your wood"? Do you have to replace the factory stud?
bladeracer wrote:If you use the sling for shooting you might like the 513T as the swivel screws into a steel block inletted into the bottom of the stock. It gives you a range of positions to mount the sling..
in2anity wrote:bladeracer wrote:If you use the sling for shooting you might like the 513T as the swivel screws into a steel block inletted into the bottom of the stock. It gives you a range of positions to mount the sling..
I can't picture how the 513T is installed. Do you have to modify the stock at all?
Die Judicii wrote:I myself have never trusted those sling studs that simply screw into the timber of your stock.
As you said, the whole set up eventually degrades and gets sloppy.
Especially if you tote a "heavy" rifle, you run the risk of the stud pulling/falling out when you least expect it.
This can damage your rifle and or scope.
I solved the problem myself by making my own stud that on the exterior of the stock looks identical.
The big difference is that instead of a wood screw, mine has a 1/4" thread that goes right through the stock and is cut at just
the right length so as not to touch the barrel.
(this can only be done on a stock that has enough wood thickness in the fore-end)
Then I drill the original stud hole all the way through with a 1/4" drill bit.
Then carefully counter sink the "barrel side" of the hole with a flat bottomed drill bit or router bit 1/2" diam, and just deep enough
to accommodate a 1/4" Nyloc nut without it touching the barrel when reassembled.
If desired, for a finer and smaller set up,, use a 6 mm bolt, and 6 mm nyloc nut needing a 6 mm hole and 7/16" diam flat bottomed
hole for the nyloc nut to be seated in.
When finished, the visible stud looks identical to the original, but with the added advantage that it allows for the a swiveling movement
but without the risk of it ever pulling out.
If you feel the need, I could post some pics of the ones that I have done.
in2anity wrote:
Yes please mate some pics would be great - there might be something in this; I'd be happy enlarging the existing hole + countersinking it on the far side because it won't change the aesthetics of the rifle at all, and I'd be comfortably attempting this with a hand-drill. So where'd you get the longer threaded replacement stud from?
Gamerancher wrote:Not trying to be a smartar$e, but aren't 1/4" and 6mm roughly the same diameter?
Gamerancher wrote:Not trying to be a smartar$e, but aren't 1/4" and 6mm roughly the same diameter?