Question Re Swiveling Sling Stud

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Question Re Swiveling Sling Stud

Post by in2anity » 02 Mar 2017, 10:01 am

BACKGROUND INFO: I use an m1907 style loop sling on my walnut la101 22lr, therefore I'm forced to use extra wide (1 1/4") sling swivels attached to the studs. Using the sling constantly puts rotational changes on the front stud, and I can see the stud threading into the walnut starting to degrade. I want to put a halt to this.

QUESTION: is there a stud/swivel interface that freely rotates that I can place in-between the stud and the sling swivel? Does such a thing even exist? Or perhaps a replacement stud (that has integrated swivelling) might be another option?

I've done some searches and can't seem to find anything that would fill this niche...

Any advice would be greatly appreciated,
In2.
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Re: Question Re Swiveling Sling Stud

Post by bladeracer » 02 Mar 2017, 10:19 am

in2anity wrote:BACKGROUND INFO: I use an m1907 style loop sling on my walnut la101 22lr, therefore I'm forced to use extra wide (1 1/4") sling swivels attached to the studs. Using the sling constantly puts rotational changes on the front stud, and I can see the stud threading into the walnut starting to degrade. I want to put a halt to this.

QUESTION: is there a stud/swivel interface that freely rotates that I can place in-between the stud and the sling swivel? Does such a thing even exist?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated,
In2.



Old miltary style sling swivels often swivel - the Remington 513T is one example, and it's 1.5" wide.
https://www.gunpartscorp.com/Products/83100.htm

Or if you need QD then the push-button QD swivels.

These mount directly into your wood.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hunting-Gun-Accessories-Push-Button-Detachable-Gun-Sling-Swivel-for-Bolt-Rifle-/252679349324

Or use a picatinny rail bipod adaptor on your existing sling swivel.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Swivel-Picatinny-Weaver-Rail-Slot-Sling-Stud-Rifle-Bipod-Adaptor-for-Hunting-/371729729189
And then the push button swivel.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Push-Button-Sling-Attachment-Swivel-Plate-Quick-Detach-Release-Black-IM-/162285297666
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Re: Question Re Swiveling Sling Stud

Post by in2anity » 02 Mar 2017, 10:47 am



Thanks BR. Can you explain how they "mount directly into your wood"? Do you have to replace the factory stud?
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Re: Question Re Swiveling Sling Stud

Post by in2anity » 02 Mar 2017, 11:29 am

in2anity wrote:


Thanks BR. Can you explain how they "mount directly into your wood"? Do you have to replace the factory stud?


Don't worry BR, found a installation video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6gWahrxhOZw

I don't want to butcher the lovely stock so probably look at option 3 :thumbsup:
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Re: Question Re Swiveling Sling Stud

Post by Title_II » 02 Mar 2017, 11:30 am

I think I am going to start calling myself a Swiveling Sling Stud :D
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Re: Question Re Swiveling Sling Stud

Post by bladeracer » 02 Mar 2017, 11:33 am

in2anity wrote:


Thanks BR. Can you explain how they "mount directly into your wood"? Do you have to replace the factory stud?



You can put it in where the original is or simply drill a hole somewhere else.
Then you epoxy the barrel in place.
It has the advantage of sitting flush when you don't have the sling on the rifle.

If you use the sling for shooting you might like the 513T as the swivel screws into a steel block inletted into the bottom of the stock. It gives you a range of positions to mount the sling.

I happen to be working on my 510/513 cross right now.
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Re: Question Re Swiveling Sling Stud

Post by in2anity » 02 Mar 2017, 11:38 am

bladeracer wrote:If you use the sling for shooting you might like the 513T as the swivel screws into a steel block inletted into the bottom of the stock. It gives you a range of positions to mount the sling..


I can't picture how the 513T is installed. Do you have to modify the stock at all?
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Re: Question Re Swiveling Sling Stud

Post by bladeracer » 02 Mar 2017, 12:00 pm

in2anity wrote:
bladeracer wrote:If you use the sling for shooting you might like the 513T as the swivel screws into a steel block inletted into the bottom of the stock. It gives you a range of positions to mount the sling..


I can't picture how the 513T is installed. Do you have to modify the stock at all?


That would be up to you.
You could inlet it into the stock or simply screw onto the surface.
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Re: Question Re Swiveling Sling Stud

Post by in2anity » 02 Mar 2017, 2:53 pm

Right, yes that would be ideal BR, but I don't want to modify the walnut stock at all. so option 3 it is - I just ordered on ebay, nice and cheap so doesn't matter if it sucks, thanks for the tips :thumbsup:
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Re: Question Re Swiveling Sling Stud

Post by Kelix » 07 Mar 2017, 9:31 am

Looks much better with the inlet :thumbsup:

Fair enough not wanting to mod your stock though.
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Re: Question Re Swiveling Sling Stud

Post by in2anity » 07 Mar 2017, 11:54 am

Actually I'm working on trying to get something machined, here is the spec I came up with:

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I'll keep you guys posted if it comes together.
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Re: Question Re Swiveling Sling Stud

Post by Die Judicii » 08 Mar 2017, 10:40 pm

I myself have never trusted those sling studs that simply screw into the timber of your stock.
As you said, the whole set up eventually degrades and gets sloppy.
Especially if you tote a "heavy" rifle, you run the risk of the stud pulling/falling out when you least expect it.
This can damage your rifle and or scope.

I solved the problem myself by making my own stud that on the exterior of the stock looks identical.
The big difference is that instead of a wood screw, mine has a 1/4" thread that goes right through the stock and is cut at just
the right length so as not to touch the barrel.
(this can only be done on a stock that has enough wood thickness in the fore-end)

Then I drill the original stud hole all the way through with a 1/4" drill bit.
Then carefully counter sink the "barrel side" of the hole with a flat bottomed drill bit or router bit 1/2" diam, and just deep enough
to accommodate a 1/4" Nyloc nut without it touching the barrel when reassembled.

If desired, for a finer and smaller set up,, use a 6 mm bolt, and 6 mm nyloc nut needing a 6 mm hole and 7/16" diam flat bottomed
hole for the nyloc nut to be seated in.

When finished, the visible stud looks identical to the original, but with the added advantage that it allows for the a swiveling movement
but without the risk of it ever pulling out.

If you feel the need, I could post some pics of the ones that I have done.

:thumbsup:
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Re: Question Re Swiveling Sling Stud

Post by in2anity » 09 Mar 2017, 5:54 am

Die Judicii wrote:I myself have never trusted those sling studs that simply screw into the timber of your stock.
As you said, the whole set up eventually degrades and gets sloppy.
Especially if you tote a "heavy" rifle, you run the risk of the stud pulling/falling out when you least expect it.
This can damage your rifle and or scope.

I solved the problem myself by making my own stud that on the exterior of the stock looks identical.
The big difference is that instead of a wood screw, mine has a 1/4" thread that goes right through the stock and is cut at just
the right length so as not to touch the barrel.
(this can only be done on a stock that has enough wood thickness in the fore-end)

Then I drill the original stud hole all the way through with a 1/4" drill bit.
Then carefully counter sink the "barrel side" of the hole with a flat bottomed drill bit or router bit 1/2" diam, and just deep enough
to accommodate a 1/4" Nyloc nut without it touching the barrel when reassembled.

If desired, for a finer and smaller set up,, use a 6 mm bolt, and 6 mm nyloc nut needing a 6 mm hole and 7/16" diam flat bottomed
hole for the nyloc nut to be seated in.

When finished, the visible stud looks identical to the original, but with the added advantage that it allows for the a swiveling movement
but without the risk of it ever pulling out.

If you feel the need, I could post some pics of the ones that I have done.

:thumbsup:


Yes please mate some pics would be great - there might be something in this; I'd be happy enlarging the existing hole + countersinking it on the far side because it won't change the aesthetics of the rifle at all, and I'd be comfortably attempting this with a hand-drill. So where'd you get the longer threaded replacement stud from?
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Re: Question Re Swiveling Sling Stud

Post by Die Judicii » 09 Mar 2017, 10:58 pm

in2anity wrote:
Yes please mate some pics would be great - there might be something in this; I'd be happy enlarging the existing hole + countersinking it on the far side because it won't change the aesthetics of the rifle at all, and I'd be comfortably attempting this with a hand-drill. So where'd you get the longer threaded replacement stud from?


Yep, no worries.
Will drop the stock on one of mine tomorrow (frid) and take some pics to put up.
The studs themselves,,, I make my own and blue them.
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Re: Question Re Swiveling Sling Stud

Post by Gamerancher » 10 Mar 2017, 7:43 am

Not trying to be a smartar$e, but aren't 1/4" and 6mm roughly the same diameter?
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Re: Question Re Swiveling Sling Stud

Post by Gwion » 10 Mar 2017, 7:56 am

Gamerancher wrote:Not trying to be a smartar$e, but aren't 1/4" and 6mm roughly the same diameter?


0.35mm difference.....
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Re: Question Re Swiveling Sling Stud

Post by Gamerancher » 10 Mar 2017, 8:53 am

I did say roughly. ;)
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Re: Question Re Swiveling Sling Stud

Post by in2anity » 10 Mar 2017, 2:03 pm

I'm going with 3/16" anyway - basically the diameter of the inner core of the la101 stud, meaning i can still put the original stud back in in case I ever want to restore it back to the original look (for resale, not that that would ever happen!). Did some work on it last night; this is going to be a nice solution to the problem :thumbsup:
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Re: Question Re Swiveling Sling Stud

Post by Die Judicii » 10 Mar 2017, 3:22 pm

Gamerancher wrote:Not trying to be a smartar$e, but aren't 1/4" and 6mm roughly the same diameter?


Granted,,,, BUT, the 6mm nyloc nuts are much smaller outer overall diameter than their 1/4" cousins.

I never say or do things like this unless there is a good reason behind it.
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Re: Question Re Swiveling Sling Stud

Post by Die Judicii » 10 Mar 2017, 3:35 pm

The one that I intended to take the pics of with the nyloc nut used, is not with me at the moment, it's at the g/smith.

So, instead I took a couple pics of the very 1st one that I did.
It's on my old .303 and the timber wasn't thick enough to allow a nyloc nut.

Instead I used an ordinary nut, and then ground it concave so not to interfere with the barrel, then applied locrite.

No where near as neat or pretty as the Howa with the nyloc nut,,,,, but the same general principle applies.
So you can see the method.
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Re: Question Re Swiveling Sling Stud

Post by in2anity » 11 Mar 2017, 1:52 pm

Thanks for the photos / tips Die J. much appreciated. So I had some great success myself:

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After many failed attempts I ended up using a longer coupling nut cut down to around 15-20mm. I then drilled near the end of the nut for the swivel clip. This meant the integrity of the bolt of was not compromised (i.e. plenty of solid thread below the clip hole for the bolt). Loctited it on, Bob's your uncle and Fanny's your aunt! Very happy with with the result, thanks to all for contributions :drinks:
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