bladeracer wrote:Nice work.
I've been thinking of making stencils myself, but for now I just trace the steels and cut them out.
I just stick them to 3mm MDF sheets as I don't want them to contrast too much against the background - that's part of the challenge of silhouette.
I've also considered scaling them down to shoot them closer but I think it's important that the sight picture includes the loss of detail that comes with distance, the turkey is particularly difficult to see clearly I find. And the bullet drop is a very important aspect as well, although not so much if you have sights you can dial-in to a dead-on hold at each range.
I shot these yesterday. The chicken is a low hold 50mm below the foot, the pig is held on the bottom of the belly, the turkey the top of the back, and the ram dead-on.
My ribs are still preventing .44 Mag practice but I need to cut out some full-size silhouettes as well.
The one-fifth scale silhouettes are pretty tough, but at least you can use a scope on those.
I'm expecting a Williams FP336 adjustable peep for the Marlin this week and I want to see if I can mount it to the Norinco as well. It's fully adjustable so I need to log elevation settings for the various ranges and print a table to stick to the butt stock for reference.
in2anity wrote:I tried to do holdovers at the start, but found my scores were significantly better if I re-zeroed at each bank, most competitors do this. I also started with a plain FP-336 on my Marlin 336, only to realise I needed the long target knob and finger-adjustable gib lock. Makes it field adjustable without any tools. Also I needed a high front sight to match. I've now memorised the locations on the little ladder for distances out to 300m - perfect for hunting, I pretty much tweak the elevation for every shot!
Blade what distance you been shooting that target at? Or have you been moving it out for each animal?
bladeracer wrote:in2anity wrote:I tried to do holdovers at the start, but found my scores were significantly better if I re-zeroed at each bank, most competitors do this. I also started with a plain FP-336 on my Marlin 336, only to realise I needed the long target knob and finger-adjustable gib lock. Makes it field adjustable without any tools. Also I needed a high front sight to match. I've now memorised the locations on the little ladder for distances out to 300m - perfect for hunting, I pretty much tweak the elevation for every shot!
Blade what distance you been shooting that target at? Or have you been moving it out for each animal?
I think zeroing to hold dead-on does work better.
This is the sight I'm awaiting - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Williams-FP-336-Receiver-Peep-Sight-with-Target-Knobs-for-Marlin-336-1894/122775522726
I set the targets up but I shoot from different ranges. I can get to 500m here but generally I shoot at 200m or less.
in2anity wrote:Yeah nice Blade, the TK version is perfect. See how you go, but I reckon the 962-000-079WB Target Elevation Gib Lock Knob may be of value to that sight: https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tool ... 27362.aspx (to quickly lock and unlock your elevation). You can order it through brownells AUS. It's a really good little sight - I paired mine with a Lyman 17AHB .404 and I've taken smallish medium varmint at 250m with it (oops probably a little "unethical" but heck it worked!)
bladeracer wrote:Thanks for the tip, I'll ask Bruce about that. I'm already asking him to sort some other items that are not listed on the Au portal.
in2anity wrote:Blade here's a close up of the gib-lock (set @ 200m):
in2anity wrote:This is a typical 10 shot group using the cheap 30/30 projectiles:
Norton wrote:Cracker mate
Oldbloke wrote:Ummmm, why don't you cast your own?
in2anity wrote:Oldbloke wrote:Ummmm, why don't you cast your own?
I’d really love to OB but I don’t have the space (townhouse) or time (young kids). Some day down the track though hopefully once my kids are all grown up and I can escape the big smoke