Is surface rust something to be worried about?

[Oldbloke]

No worries. I agree.

[juststarting]

"or sell it for heaps as it shoots 3 shots great "

Well for some that would be OK. Typically I shoot 1 or 2 on a day trip.

Might seem strange for some, but if it doesn't have fur I don't pull the trigger.

Lies! I've seen you blast away with giddy smile!

[AusTac]

"or sell it for heaps as it shoots 3 shots great "

Well for some that would be OK. Typically I shoot 1 or 2 on a day trip.

Might seem strange for some, but if it doesn't have fur I don't pull the trigger.

Lies! I've seen you blast away with giddy smile!

I clean and treat all my guns differently depending on what they're used for and how they're used the one that gets the cleanest is probably my u/o clay gun as that sits around for a while these days

[Bushie]

I'm the same the gun that gets looked after the most is the clay gun

Picked up some sweets 7.62 today and made the mistake of taking a big sniff of the stuff

Needless to say I no longer have nose hairs hahah


Also grabbed some gunslick pro copper clenz
Was on sale and says removes copper lead and powder without harsh chemicals

Thoughts?

[marksman]

there are better but your local dealer may not stock it
Brett's advise on product is good
http://brtshooterssupply.com.au/product ... l-100.html

[Bushie]

Right is before left is after

I've gone through with sweets 7.62 3 times letting it soak for 10 minutes each

I've ever tried using a copper brush to brush it off aswell

Am I doing something wrong or is this surface rust or corrosion from the copper??

This gun was purchased second hand and when I first bought it and took it down to clean it , it was FIIIILLLLTTTHYYYYY

[Oldbloke]

It's copper.
More Sweets and leave it 30 minutes.
Scrub with a good nylon brush upon application and after soaking.
Don't use a bronze brush, the sweets attacks the bronze.

Your about halfway there.

[juststarting]

Looks like copper. Sweets instructions says, keep patching out until patches stop coming out with blue streaks. 3 times doesn't sound like you've dissolved everything.

[Bushie]

I'll give it another crack tomorrow I was thinking about leaving it on longer but the bottle says no longer then 15 minutes

I figured it would attack the brush so I gave it a good wash and dry before I put it away

And JS I mean like 3 separate soaks and stuff but I guess this one must be built up a lot I'll keep at it and let you know how I go

[juststarting]

Tomorrow? Tomorrow?! Tomorrow!!! Scrub harder bitch, scrub it hard, now! Oh yeah!

[Stix]

Hi Bushie.
I had a rifle like that a couple of years ago...
I dont think copper had EVER been cleaned out of it.
It took me weeks & weeks of scrubbing, but i got there....i went through a good dozen brushes...!!!
In the end i used nylon brushes.
Try cleaning when you can shoot it...as in stuff the sweets down the tube when the barrel is warm & the copper is a bit softer.
If you're using bronze brush, every few times you clean, if you still get the blue on oatches, try scrubbing with a nylon/alloy brush...that way if you still get blue you know its copper & not the bronze brush.
Hope you got lotsa patch material...Big bicep is coming your way...!!!
Best of luck.

[Stix]

...and 10 mins is nothing...
I ended up leaving barrel full of sweets o/night on several occasions...but kept the barrel wet with solvent.

[sungazer]

Pour Hot water down the barrel I mean boiling water. Then patch with solvent then brass brush then patch out then the sweets. If you had JB or Iosso past or even some autosol put that on a patch wrapped around a nylon brush and give it about 5 pass through s. This would be after the hot water.

[Bushie]

Does anyone else use the hot water method??

[Oldbloke]

Not me.
Just keep brushing with a nylon brush when applying the sweets. , then let it soak for about 30 minutes.
Patch a few times and then repeat until no more green/blue on patches.

Sometime it takes a fair few goes.

Don't use copper of bronze brushes. You will get false blue on patches because the sweets attacks the copper in the brush.

[sungazer]

The hot water obviously makes the barrel hot and the expansion of the copper and the barrel material are different this helps break the bond and makes the copper easier to remove. Its a pretty well know method in the older target rifle shooters back to the 303 days.

[Stix]

Ive never used the hot/boiling water method...
Id imaging you'd have to have the barrel vertical & plug the barrel & repeat a few times to heat the barrel sufficiently...?
I can forsee me pouring boiling water over my feet & being left a much bigger mess to clean up...

When i used to shoot that rifle i mentioned earlier in this thread, i would get the cleaning gear ready right before the last group & get stuck in to the copper as soon as those shots were fired & the barrel was hot.
Then id saturate the bore & plug with it with a patch each end for the trip home....it made for much lighter & easier cleaning...!!

[Oldbloke]

"Then id saturate the bore & plug with it with a patch each end for the trip home....it made for much lighter & easier cleaning...!"

Yes, makes sense. Even just run a wet patch with solvent. Gets a soaking on the drive home.

[Bushie]

I don't mind sweets when I'm.doing my 7600 because I can just take the whole barrel off but when I'm.doing the 783 I'm.paraniod about getting on the stock and then on my fingers and onto the scope so I end up wiping it down every 2 minutes

[BRNO_Bigot]

The hot water method was most useful back in the days of corrosive primers.

Most of these primers were Potassium Chlorate or Perchlorate or closely similar compounds. When these went off, they would leave a salt behind of Potassium Chloride (similar to Sodium Chloride - table salt).

Cleaning this out with an oil mixture was really not too useful, but dissolving it in boiling water was the ducks nuts, easy and effective.

Coincidentally this also opened pores in the steel and allowed the other naughty bits to be scrubbed out.

With newer primer compounds, not as useful.

[Oldbloke]

s**t that reminded me. Sweets had need in my bore for 22 minutes better remove it before all the rifling is gone.

[sungazer]

Whats the worry about getting sweets on you figures? I still have mine

[Oldbloke]

I could drone on about how the skin absorpes some substances and repels others, but in short, I will just say. None just wash it off with soap and water. The quantities are too small to worry about.

[sungazer]

Yeah I understand that. Just wondered if it was really bad. I mean I only get a bit on them and as you say wash it of pretty quickly.

[Gamerancher]

I always have an old hand towel very handy when cleaning. Wiping any fluids off your hands straight away prevents transfer to any parts of your rifle you don't want it on.
Also wiping your cleaning rod dry after each use with solvents prevents contamination and watch where you put it down. Just putting it straight on a concrete bench will pick up small dirt particles which are abrasive to your bore. Keep it dry and keep it clean.

[Tiger650]

I once had a factory standard issue .308 Remington [carbon steel] varmint weight rifle that shot .060" 5 rd groups @ 200 yds, you could head shoot a mouse at 200 yds LOL.

I always patched it through at least once with Sweets every three groups, followed by a metho patch.

The first Sweets patches came out really blue, the rifle obviously copper fouled significantly but was a tack driver [for an off the shelf rifle].

I was relatively poor at the time so never shot it without cleaning to the extent that accuracy may have been effected, being anxious about possible bore damage.

[Tiger650]

PS good advice Gamerancher, a concrete benchtop is made out of sand and one grain of silica in the bore could see accuracy suffer.
Manufacturers of abrasives swear by the stuff.