Brass cleaning and depriming help

[Chief2744]

Hi all,

I am finally ready to start reloading after getting all the bits and pieces but I am not sure about a couple of things

Is it better to deprime before wet tumbling?

If I do will it wreck my depriming and resizing die?

If I wet tumble first will it have any adverse effects when depriming?

I will be reloading 9mm and am using hornaby carbide dies.

Thanks to all in advance, sorry if these questions appear to be daft.

Cheers Neil

[Gaznazdiak]

G'day Neil, welcome to the world of OCD that is reloading.

I'm no expert mate, and only reload for rifle, but I would definitely say, yes deprime and give the primer pocket a hit with the pocket cleaning tool before cleaning.

If I'm wrong, someone please set us both straight.

[Sergeant Hartman]

Ya mate esp if you wet tumbling then deprime first. I do ultrasonic and once to just tru I didn't deprime the cars came out looking crap cuz or all the gunk from primers.

Maybe its for looks more so than function, I am unsure

[bigfellascott]

Always deprime before cleaning brass in anything or you will have lovely dirty primer pockets which will need to be cleaned out anyway so might as well do it all in one hit.

[HereSkip]

Deprime then clean

[Kelsey Cooter]

All the answers are to deprime 1st, but is it ok to resize and deprime? Will the die need alot more cleaning?

Currently I am using an old dry tumbler that is a hand-me-down, I have been tumbling 1st and then resizing and depriming, but then I have to give the primer pocket a good clean by hand, so I've been meaning to ask this same question but haven't been game as I've seen alot of negativity on here towards dry tumbling

[TheDude]

If you want clean primer pockets, get yourself a Lee universal decapping die to deprime them before tumbling without worrying about dirtying up your sizer dies.

[Stix]

I give inside of necks a brush...

Then squirt a bit of ballistol on a rag & wipe carbon off necks/shoulders of brass...

Then i wipe them again with a clean rag...

Then lube & size...

Then trim...

Then chamfer deburr...

Then wet tumble...

Then load n shoot 4 or so times before i repeat the process.

[bigfellascott]

All the answers are to deprime 1st, but is it ok to resize and deprime? Will the die need alot more cleaning?

Currently I am using an old dry tumbler that is a hand-me-down, I have been tumbling 1st and then resizing and depriming, but then I have to give the primer pocket a good clean by hand, so I've been meaning to ask this same question but haven't been game as I've seen alot of negativity on here towards dry tumbling

It won't worry the dies, if you are concerned do as stix said and just give the necks a clean inside and out, just use a bore brush for the inside and a rag for or steel wool or rag or whatever the the outside.

Use whatever you have to clean em with mate, me I don't even bother with it that much, I just use a little primer pocket cleaner and I spin mine up in a drill press every now and again to clean the outside with a bit of steel wool and when I can be bothered I put em in an aldi ultrasonic cleaner to give the insides a clean.

[wanneroo]

Get yourself a Lee universal depriming die. Once set up you can pop out the primers fast. I think that die is like $11 here in the USA. I have that die set up in a Lee Hand Press.

The other thing I started using was the Frankford Arsenal hand de primer. That works good too.

Also I reload in bulk of thousands, so there is often months or years that goes by between steps for me. So take 9mm for instance I will wet tumble a couple of thousand to just clean the grime off for resizing. And then later I would go back after bulk resizing all the brass and re-wet tumble again with stainless steel pins for the full clean.

Now that I have a progressive press I am starting to hand deprime everything and then will wet tumble with stainless steel pins.

[TheDude]

Now that I have a progressive press I am starting to hand deprime everything and then will wet tumble with stainless steel pins.

With the progressive press, get yourself another tool head so you can just run the deprime die. I’ve done that with my Dillon. Can just dump a heap in the case feeder then. Much quicker than handling each case.

[Rod_outbak]

I wet tumble clean my brass.

I use a universal decapping die(~$50) in my press to de-prime, before they go through the tumbler. The universal de-capper doesnt get the crud in it like the FL die, and so less dirt dragged through the press and dies.

Decap, Tumble, Inspect for flaws, Re-size (Neck or FL), length-check, trim if needed, chamfer, steel wool, inside brush, prime, charge, seat, coal check, weigh, label, shoot, and start again.

In the past, I have occasionally tumbled them before de-priming, and you'll never get the primer pockets as clean, unless you run them through the tumbler again. It doesnt hurt them, but you wont get them as clean.

[ob1]

Leave the primers in if it is pistol brass. Don't bother adding extra steps if you are preparing hundreds of cases each week.

As long as you thoroughly dry the brass after tumbling you will have no problem leaving primers in. Use a cheap food dehydrator on high temp for an hour or so, to be sure.

Also, skip the steel pins. The pins work fine for primer pockets, otherwise the rubbing action of cases works almost as well for polishing pistol brass. The inside of the cases and primer pockets might not be as shiny, but who cares? Save yourself lots of messing around.

My process in a Frankford Arsenal is - add brass, add water, add wash and wax, add a little citric acid or Lemishine. Tumble 45 minutes to an hour. Drain and rinse. Quick roll back and forth in an old towel to get most of the water off. Place in a dehydrator for an hour or so. Good to go. Several years of using this process and no problems, as long as you dry with a dehydrator after washing.

Edit - total time: a minute or so to load the tumbler, then wander off while it does its thing. A couple of minutes to empty the tumbler and put the brass into the dehydrator, then wander off. People talk about how complex wet tumbling is, but the actual handling time is minimal if you are not sorting stainless pins.

[Roo farmer]

Is there any functional reason to ever clean brass?

[Stix]

Its easier to see shiny brass in a paddock than dull tarnished brass...

Yea i know...

[bigfellascott]

Is there any functional reason to ever clean brass?

Apparently, it helps centre the OCD crowd

But as Stix pointed out it helps to find the brass at times and there's probably some magic paper pokers reason for it too no doubt.

[Rod_outbak]

I clean my brass for 5 reasons:

1). It's my brass, and I'll clean it as much as I like..
2). It helps me pick up flaws in brass easier, and moreso as my eyes deteriorate with age.
3). It seems to keep my press and ammo boxes cleaner for longer, as I drag less crud through them.
4). As others have mentioned, it's easier to find spent shells in the paddock, especially when spotlighting.
5). It looks pretty.

I am amused at comments about negativity towards dry tumbling.
WHO CARES??
Whatever works FOR YOU.
Reloading is all about what steps and procedures you come up with that allow you to produce the ammo you want to use.
IF you dont like what you're producing, then you can change your reloading process to suit what you want.
[Ideally, whatever you produce should ALSO be safe to use...]
You can spend as little as a hundred dollars and 'Roll your own', or you can spend tens of Thousands.
There are a million ways to skin a freaking cat, and we all approach it from a different angle, so each to their own.
Regarding case cleaning, I've done everything from no cleaning at all, to Ultrasonic, washing, wiping them down, Vibratory, and wet tumbling.
Each have their merits, and each have their negatives.
I have my preferences, but they shouldnt be construed as what I think others should do!
This is just what works for me.
Anyone who is venturing into reloading should always keep that in mind; you arent doing this to please anyone other than yourself.

[JimTom]

Mate I always deprime and neck size prior to cleaning.
I don’t tumble but I do use a sonic cleaner.
As Rod said, it helps you to see any faults in the brass and I think having a clean primer pocket and case can only be a positive although I don’t have any data to back my statement up.
It’s just what I do, and as you can see, there are many different methods people use when reloading.
Read what everyone says, as I did when I started, then make your own informed decision on what you think to be the best method.

[Chief2744]

Thanks to all for your opinions and comments. I do agree that it is totally up to the individual as to what steps to take, but when you are first starting out it can be a wee bit daunting as you just don't want to wreck your hard earned bought kit ot stuff up yours loads. I think I might go the depriming route first then tumble. Thanks again.

Cheers
N

[vmaxaust]

Is it better to deprime before wet tumbling?

If I do will it wreck my depriming and resizing die?

If I wet tumble first will it have any adverse effects when depriming?

I will be reloading 9mm and am using hornaby carbide dies.

Thanks to all in advance, sorry if these questions appear to be daft.

Cheers Neil[/quote]


As you can see Neil, many opinions but you will have to decide what works best for you.
I use at least 300 9mm rounds a week, often more.
The procedure I use is...

1) De-prime before cleaning. I use an automated Italian made machine for 9mm and 45ACP. I used to do them on my Hornady Progressive press and that was very fast also with a single universal Hornady de-prime die. By one of those so you don't filth up your carbide sizing die. Use the sizing die for sizing and not de-priming.
2) Wash all brass with stainless pins in a tumbler using Aussie Sapphire burnishing compound and fairy warm water. I do at least 500 at one time for between one hour to one and a half hours. I rinse them in the barrel till the water is clear. Tip the pins and cases into a Dillon media separator. With the basket still open I push everything around by hand for 10-15 seconds which drops 90% of the pins into the separator tub. Close basket rotate for 20-30 seconds both ways and pins are all in the tub. Empty the brass onto a bath towel. Wrap towel around brass and shake back and forward for 15-20 seconds. This displaces 90% of the water. I drop the cases into a sieve to air dry. If I'm in a hurry I leave brass on towel and use a hair dryer on the cases for less than 60 seconds and they are actually completely dry and hot! I pour the stainless pins back into the barrel ready for the next load. I never dry pins fully, just leave barrel open for water to air dry.
3) You can clean brass with primers still in cases if you don't care about cleaning primer pockets. I prefer to do it the other way but either will work Clean brass as someone else has said is important for one main reason...you can see flaws in brass instantly. Not so obvious with dirty or just fired cases.
4) I then size all cases in my Hornady progressive press with only the Hornady carbide die installed. I lube cases on a large mat with my home made Dillon style case lube (Lanolin and Isopropyl Alcohol) or you can use the genuine Dillon stuff. I like this type of lube best.
5) I then rinse all cases in X55 solvent. They air dry in a few minutes and you are ready to load or as I do store them in large containers with a note that says "ready to load". I also check a few out of every 100 in a case gauge. I like the slotted Sheridan gauge because it shows the case from top to bottom.

By doing it this way I continue to build up a stock of "ready to load" cases. When I'm needing to load I fill the primer tube with primers, fit case flaring die, powder hopper, bullet seating die and last station is a taper crimp die. This works very effectively for me. I can load 500 rounds in about 1 1/2 hours using this method. I have not set up collators for cases or bullets although I have those for my machine. I will eventually set them up. I actually enjoy doing it manually even though it takes a little longer. Another time saver is a Hornady vibratory primer tube loader. This gizmo is great. Saves lots of time compared to filling primer tubes the normal way.

Sam

[pomemax]

On my dillon i deprime and resize , then swage the pockets all in the one go, different stations may be 2- 3000 (9 mm)a a time then either sonic or dry clean , if sonic when they are done into toweling bags and in the tumble dryer for 30 min .
Hey The dude I can recommend the SWAGE IT S650 COMBO

[TheDude]

On my dillon i deprime and resize , then swage the pockets all in the one go, different stations may be 2- 3000 (9 mm)a a time then either sonic or dry clean , if sonic when they are done into toweling bags and in the tumble dryer for 30 min .
Hey The dude I can recommend the SWAGE IT S650 COMBO

Thanks, I’ve seen the SWAGE IT. Good to hear they work well. I haven’t had a need to swage any brass yet as none of my brass is crimped.