Thanks guys...
Yes that explains it...
So, i do have problems with neck tension...big problems & i know it.
The reason i neck size new brass is for the same reasons you guys say, but i haven't thought about using the mandrel i have, from now on i will (i have the K&M ones).
Ive been told not to leave the lock ring loose on the neck die, but,... i do it anyway, because it seems obvious to me that it will bend the neck...so im glad you guys have told me im doing the right thing there...
I know i have excessive neck tension on my 22 expander ball that was in my neck die (Redding 22-250)--its so bad i used to absolutely destroy projectiles if i had to pull them (using the grip-n-pull) to the point they cant be used for even plinking trailboss loads again...
So i swapped it out for the one in the FL die, & although its not as bad, i still get the feeling there is excessive tension on some necks, however i can pull the bullets easy enough without great deformation now ive changed them out (i basically only use that one shaft & ball now between the Neck & FL die, although i hardly ever FL size).
.
The thing i dont get, is that ive measured the expander balls & they are both the same, & i lube all necks with graphite so i dont know why i get such bad tension/& different tension in the necks between the different balls.
Keep in mind, i dont have a run-out gauge for measuring such, nor do i have a ball micrometer to measure neck thickness (i have the gear for turning but dont neck turn) so i dont bother measuring neck tension as such--but i can feel it when i seat--i dont care what anyone says, i can feel the different tension clear as day, & sometimes (rarely) but sometimes i can feel it while neck sizing--although that is hard, because as you say & the thing i dont like about these neck dies is they are so grabby...sometimes i even visually check a case for decent lube & the ball still grabs bad...ggrrrr..
.!!
I set the neck die so that i can see the ring of graphite sit right at the shoulder--so with a graphite lubed neck, once run through the die it pushes the graphite down the outside--i set the dies so this ring of graphite is basically at the junction of neck & shoulder...i figure that covers all bases-a shallow seated & a deep seated bullet, while not (hopefully
) not deforming the shoulder enough to create obscure tension in the adjacent neck.
So Is this right...?
Or better still, should i just buy a different type of die...?
My mind & understanding tells me bushing dies would be the go, but are they worth it for factory chambers...? i figured not, hence why ive shelved & not used all the neck turning gear...
Should i try the lee collet dies ?(i have no idea how they work but have gathered from posts on here they may the cheap groovy thing to use...
)
Anyway, thanks agian for the explanation guys...it is appreciated..
.sorry if ive waffled on a bit, im just trying to give as much info as i can...
(im so frustrated lately, ive 2x 22-250's i cant get to shoot...if i had service when i was away shooting last week i would have sold my brand new Sako 22-250 varmint for a grand--tensioned & checked everything up, no wind, first 2 shots same hole...
took it straight out in a paddock & blew one bunny in half at 250 yds (i executed a good shot but thats a big miss
) then missed the next 5 completely...
...next morning tried it on paper again & it was spraying 3 inches or more at 150 yds FFS...
i wanted to kill & disfigure this inanimate object...
)
The man who knows everything, doesnt really know everything...he's just stopped learning...