310 Cadet

Reloading equipment, methods, load data, powder and projectile information.

310 Cadet

Post by Stix » 02 Mar 2019, 1:52 pm

Ok...so dont laugh...but i want to bugger around with a 310 cadet just for kicks... :D

But before i buy dies, does anyone have any 310 cadet dies they want rid of (i only ask because recently ive either missed out on gear, or other people have missed out on a buyer from on here from not knowing each is interested... :D )

Secondly, any advice on what dies to buy would be goodly appreciated... :D

Eventually ill cast bullets...ive kept a few old lead drain pipes over the years...so info on that is also of interest.

As i said, its just for a bit of plinking fun, so ill initially buy some lead bullets & start from there...(mind you, once ive got it going, ill have to do the obligatory take it in the paddock & knock something over with it...if i get set up soon enough, with any luck its first live thud might be a foxicle...)

Anyway,
Any info from you guys out there on reloading the round & what to buy is naturally appreciated.

Thanks... :drinks:
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Re: 310 Cadet

Post by SCJ429 » 02 Mar 2019, 4:15 pm

You have got yourself a bit of a project there. I have wanted to cast my own bullets too but thought it might not be the best thing with young kids around. Are you going hunting with it?
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Re: 310 Cadet

Post by No1_49er » 02 Mar 2019, 4:18 pm

I've got a Lee set. Not listed in their current catalogue, but might still be available here: - http://westernfirearms.com.au/reloading ... -1395.html Price seems reasonable.
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Re: 310 Cadet

Post by Stix » 02 Mar 2019, 6:07 pm

Thanks guys...

SCJ429 wrote:You have got yourself a bit of a project there. I have wanted to cast my own bullets too but thought it might not be the best thing with young kids around. Are you going hunting with it?


Im hoping its not a project..As i said SCJ, just a bit of cheap fun is all...ill start by buying a box of bullets & load em up...

Not used for hunting, no...but if i can reliably get 2" at 50yds with it ill probably kill at least one form of invertebrate invasive species with it at some point. :)

No1_49er wrote:I've got a Lee set. Not listed in their current catalogue, but might still be available here: - http://westernfirearms.com.au/reloading ... -1395.html Price seems reasonable.


Thanks 49er...i did see that on google already but havnt asked shops yet...ill ring em Monday.

:drinks:
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Re: 310 Cadet

Post by Blr243 » 02 Mar 2019, 7:46 pm

I did tons of lead sinkers when I was a kid in not so well ventilated areas before anyone ever realised it was dangerous. Maybe that’s why now I am so retarded
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Re: 310 Cadet

Post by bladeracer » 02 Mar 2019, 8:41 pm

Blr243 wrote:I did tons of lead sinkers when I was a kid in not so well ventilated areas before anyone ever realised it was dangerous. Maybe that’s why now I am so retarded


Unless you were getting the alloy hot enough to give off vapours I doubt you were in any danger.
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Re: 310 Cadet

Post by Chappo » 02 Mar 2019, 8:51 pm

bladeracer wrote:
Blr243 wrote:I did tons of lead sinkers when I was a kid in not so well ventilated areas before anyone ever realised it was dangerous. Maybe that’s why now I am so retarded


Unless you were getting the alloy hot enough to give off vapours I doubt you were in any danger.


Are you saying he was just born that way blade?
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Re: 310 Cadet

Post by Stix » 02 Mar 2019, 8:52 pm

Blr243 wrote:I did tons of lead sinkers when I was a kid in not so well ventilated areas before anyone ever realised it was dangerous. Maybe that’s why now I am so retarded


:lol:

Im not so lucky to have an excuse for my level of difference... :lol:
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Re: 310 Cadet

Post by No1Mk3 » 03 Mar 2019, 2:34 am

G'day Stix,
Never mind the Lee die set, most people have some issue with it. I have a set, but only use the seater. The Simplex dies are best, and CBE sell a "Starter Kit" for the 310 that includes cases, Simplex dies, 3 cavity mould (you have to choose which type of bullet) with handles and bullet lube. They also sell sample kits of each of the various bullet types for the 310. until you determine what type of bullet, straight or heeled, works best in your own Cadet, you should buy the sample packs of his bullets and experiment before ordering a mould. Slugging the bore is essential, Cadets can vary a lot, and required bullets may range from around .314 to .328, with the majority happy around .316 at 122g . cast your chamber also, to make sure it is a 310 chamber as Mick Smith converted many hundreds of these little rifles to 32-20 amd at least half if not most were not stamped with the conversion. lastly, for now, the cadet can be every bit as individualistic as 22RF for ammo and of the half dozen or so I own no 2 shoot the same but they are enormous fun. We shoot a comp here in Vic each month for the Cadet and some (not me, sadly) post very good scores out to 100 yards, Cheers.
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Re: 310 Cadet

Post by Bent Arrow » 03 Mar 2019, 8:50 am

Il be very keen to see how you get on with this Stix. I've got a cadet I rescued and it's been a safe queen so far. Getting set up to reload for it is on my list of things to do. I've got over 400 factory rounds with FMJ projectiles for it in various states of condition.
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Re: 310 Cadet

Post by Stix » 03 Mar 2019, 11:14 am

No1Mk3 wrote:G'day Stix,
Never mind the Lee die set, most people have some issue with it. I have a set, but only use the seater. The Simplex dies are best, and CBE sell a "Starter Kit" for the 310 that includes cases, Simplex dies, 3 cavity mould (you have to choose which type of bullet) with handles and bullet lube. They also sell sample kits of each of the various bullet types for the 310. until you determine what type of bullet, straight or heeled, works best in your own Cadet, you should buy the sample packs of his bullets and experiment before ordering a mould. Slugging the bore is essential, Cadets can vary a lot, and required bullets may range from around .314 to .328, with the majority happy around .316 at 122g . cast your chamber also, to make sure it is a 310 chamber as Mick Smith converted many hundreds of these little rifles to 32-20 amd at least half if not most were not stamped with the conversion. lastly, for now, the cadet can be every bit as individualistic as 22RF for ammo and of the half dozen or so I own no 2 shoot the same but they are enormous fun. We shoot a comp here in Vic each month for the Cadet and some (not me, sadly) post very good scores out to 100 yards, Cheers.


Well...thanks No1...that is some great, & by the look of it, valuable info... :clap: Thanks so much.

So this initially poses a couple of (potentially stupid) questions...

If it has been converted to 32-20 and a 310 cartridge is fired...how dangerous is it likely, or have the potential to be...?
(given what you've said so far i wont be "experimenting" to find out, but the reason i ask is along the lines of knowing if doing this is an easy way out of casting the chamber without any danger...?)

Thats one question, & i already forget the other... :lol: :roll:

So that is the only thing (so far) that has me concerned is the chamber casting...but ill do some research & ask around....maybe come back with some questions.
I wont take delivery of the rifle for some time yet. so i have time to get some education up.
So again, thanks a heap No1... :drinks:

Bent Arrow wrote:Il be very keen to see how you get on with this Stix. I've got a cadet I rescued and it's been a safe queen so far. Getting set up to reload for it is on my list of things to do. I've got over 400 factory rounds with FMJ projectiles for it in various states of condition.


As long as youre not holding your breath BA...ive got a few projects i struggle to get time to work on now, but i will keep my progression updated for sure.
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Re: 310 Cadet

Post by bigpete » 03 Mar 2019, 12:48 pm

Buy it and kill stuff with it lol. It'll work
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Re: 310 Cadet

Post by No1Mk3 » 03 Mar 2019, 3:04 pm

G'day Stix,
It wouldn't be dangerous as such, the power of the 32-20 is moderate, and some Cadets including one of mine will fire both quite happily. A loose-ish 32-20 chamber will tend to split 310 cases fairly often, say 40 to 50%? I have also fired 8mm Gasser in the Cadets, but every case split except one rifle, but they spread out like a straight bore shotgun. Gasser cartridges are also expensive as, mostly a Collectors thing. Play with your rifle, it is great fun and in the UK in Greener Rook rifles this cartridge took foxes at 150 yards with ease, Cheers.
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Re: 310 Cadet

Post by goldiexxxx » 05 Mar 2019, 4:53 pm

Gday Stix,

I have just been through the same process with a .310 last year and can likely provide a bit of info.
See my own post on the topic:
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=10334
In the end I have an accurate and effective loading regime that works very well, although a little unconventional.

Firstly, the Lee dies. The FLS die and flaring die work perfectly. The seating die on the other hand only works as either a seater, or a crimper, not both at the same time. This is odd, as if the set includes a case mouth flaring die, then you would think that the next step would be seating and crimping that flared mouth. To be able to crimp the case with a seated bullet, you need to remove the seating stem altogether, and then readjust the die for crimping. Not a big deal in the scheme of things really, and more than an acceptable inconvenience if we want the fun of shooting a gem like the cadet. Furthermore, the seating die chamber is only .317", so therefore any projectile greater than .316" wont pass up through to crimp the case anyway.

Secondly, my particular BSA cadet rifle and components.
Bore diameter - .316"
Groove diameter - .321"
ID of Bertram brass case mouth - .310"
ID of fire formed brass from my rifle - .312"
Hawkesbury river 122gr projectile - .316"
Hawkesbury river 128gr heeled projectile - .323" (diameter of the heel -.316")
You can see from those dimensions, that HR projectiles are never going to enter the cases without expanding the mouths, and then some form of crimping is required to get the finished round to chamber.
To achieve this, the following loading steps produce an accurate and consistent load:
1. de-prime using the FL die, but don't push the case up into the die, just enough to punch out the primer (no lube required)
2. normal case prepping including priming
3. flare the case mouth using the flaring die
4. powder charge (4.7 - 5gr ADI AP70N)
5. seat the bullet using the seating die
6. crimp and resize the whole round using the FL sizing die (lube as normal)
My rifle will fire both the Hawkesbury River projectiles, but I find I get a flyer about 1/10 using the smaller .316" projectiles. The .323" seem to be a little more reliable.
The only other thing to watch is the primer depth using the Bertram brass. The primer pockets may be a little small for CCI Small rifle primers and you need to ensure they are pushed in hard to avoid light primer strikes. I have not experimented with another brand of primers which may fix this problem without issues.

I see that a lot of more experienced people than myself recommend the Simplex dies. Maybe a couple of people using those dies could explain exactly why that brand is better and how they function differently.
Of course, if you can tailor your own moulded heeled bullet that will simply thumb seat into your fire-formed brass, then the whole process would be simple (except for the moulding of lead part).

Hope that provides something for you to work with,
Cheers, Goldie
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