Tikka T3X Tac A1 6.5 Creedmoor ammo

[deye243]

Hmmmm the way I see the bun is that we had the 223 first and then said the 222 was better .
Yes I am talking about the 260R and yes I had one build and if I told you about the ballistics on that thing you would probably not believe it . But I must admit I looked at this exact rifle as they do it in 260R but there is no way I am going to pay more than $3000 on a fifle unless it has a match grade barrel .

Cheers D

[deye243]

Haha this is what you get for not reading the hole thread I will take a 30-06 with red hair please ....... Oops looks like gray will do .......

[Flyer]

You mean the Sako Varmint? For an out-of-the-box rifle they shoot OK. Apollo has a few of them, too, and his shoot well - as I'm sure he can attest.

My Roughtech Pro was less than $2000 and shot the group on the previous page which I thought was OK.

[Apollo]

Hey mate, we chronoed 43.2 (2815fps), 44.2 (2880fps) and 45.2 (2960fps) of 2209 behind the 123gr Scenars out of a 24" Sako barrel. Those figures aren't too far off the ADI load data for the 123gr Sierra HPBT, but it was also a new barrel (less than 50 rounds).

http://www.adi-powders.com.au/rifle/6-5-creedmoor

Yup, okay it behaves a little different to the 47L... Wish Hodgdon would do some 6.5x47L figures so ADI could include them too and compare.

Anyway, I imagine you have tested a bit. Me, I would like to compare the accuracy with 2208.

You know, you are going to cost me money building a Creedmoor.... bugger...

[deye243]

OK i think i stuffed up as i thought we were talking about this rifle , i apologise.......

20190328_013927.jpg (337.94 KiB) Viewed 6197 times

[Apollo]

What the heck is that piece of rubbish....

Sorry, but those things just do not appeal one bit..

[Flyer]

OK i think i stuffed up as i thought we were talking about this rifle , i apologise.......

20190328_013927.jpg

Sorry, no my bad. I thought you were talking about Apollo's wish list. Of course you were talking about the OP's rifle. That's what you (I) get for going off on a tangent . . .

If it's any consolation, the TikTac should have a similar barrel to the 24" Sako, as they obviously both come out of the same factory.

[Flyer]

Hmmmm the way I see the bun is that we had the 223 first and then said the 222 was better .
Yes I am talking about the 260R and yes I had one build and if I told you about the ballistics on that thing you would probably not believe it . But I must admit I looked at this exact rifle as they do it in 260R but there is no way I am going to pay more than $3000 on a fifle unless it has a match grade barrel .

Cheers D

Hey, try me - maybe I will believe you

But first thing's first: what was your COAL, what projectiles did you use, how far out could you seat them and would they fit in a mag?

The main thing that kept me from a 260 was COAL and brass/ammo choice. 260AI appealed, but Hornady has just brought out the 6.5 PRC to rival the 6.5-284.

My 6.5CM velocities are pretty average, but the cartridge can be loaded to a lot higher pressures (especially with the small primer brass) and I know one local gunsmith who loads his to 64,000-65,000psi without issue. But he can afford to replace barrels when he likes.

[Kel]

I've put my deposit on a Tikka Tac A1 in 6.5 Creedmoor. Given that its an expensive round to shoot I've also gone ahead and purchased a reloading press to make the cost of ammo a bit cheaper. My plans for the Tac A1 include medium range (500m) target/gongs and some hunting. As a starting point for reloading and dialling it in I'm keen to hear from other shooters of this rifle what ammo has proved to deliver good results and maybe what to avoid.

From all the discussion above but more on reloading. I'd go down the Lapua Brass path and for target I'd pick something like the 130gr Berger VLD using ADI2208 Powder. Then for hunting I'm not sure but something lighter like the 108/123gr Lapua Scenar which are also very good for target.

I know some will say perhaps the ADI2209 but in this size case I don't know if it's better. I'm basing this idea on being that the 6.5 Creedmoor is so close to the 6.5x47L. I'd be looking at loads around what I use in my 6.5x47L which are about 37.5gr of AR2208 which with a 130gr bullet gives around 1900 fps velocity.

I have read that factory Hornady ammo had problems with blown primers and I think they dropped the load down they were using and it may well now be fixed but I also know the reason in these high pressure cases for using match grade small primers so I think if it was me that's all I would be using. Already learnt to put my hand over the ejection port to catch fired cases so I don't loose any even at night.

I'd love to give this calibre a go. I have a spare new 31" Bartlein HV Barrel just waiting to be chambered but I doubt my local Gunsmith would have a Reamer.

Shooting at 500m to do very well is not only calibre but very much shooter skill and reading conditions then being on the detail that presents the better conditions. Every time I read through the 500m scores I look closely at which bench the top scores come from, which way the wind/mirage is traveling, which detail they are on, the skill of the shooter then lastly what calibre they are using.

Apollo, thanks for the informative posts, those were interesting points about the powder burn rate/bullet weight and barrel length. I will try the 2208 and 2209 and keep an eye on those residue indicators you mentioned. I can see I'm going to be busy and taking lots of notes.

Where do you recommend finding the Berger and Lapua projectiles (I'm in regional NSW so I tend to order gear in as my local gunshop doesn't have a very extensive man bun section) ?

My PTA has been approved so I hope to pick up the Tik Tac next week.

[Flyer]

BRT is the best place for Berger bullets, IMO: http://brtshooterssupply.com.au/

[Flyer]

But try the Lapua Scenars - especially the 123gr - as they seem to shoot in everything, especially the Tikka/Sako barrels.

[Kel]

BRT is the best place for Berger bullets, IMO: http://brtshooterssupply.com.au/

Bugger! I have a Wilson case trimmer in the mail from them as I write this, I didn't notice at the time that they stocked those consumables. Thanks for the heads up.

[Flyer]

No worries. The only other thing I would suggest is don't overload yourself with projectiles and powders to begin with, because it can be counter-productive.

Take a couple of known accuracy loads if you can - there are plenty of examples on the internet - and try to replicate those first (assuming they are the types of loads for the task at hand), matching them to your barrel (pay attention to other Tikka and Sako loads), and then load around them. If you have no luck, move on. If you find a good load, then decide if you really need another one. I've known guys to almost shoot out barrels trying different loads because they didn't follow a method or keep records and ended up putting 500 rounds or more downrange before they even started properly shooting!

We all know what it's like: I'm sure I'm not the only one with a bunch of different projectiles and powders that will probably never get used.

[Kel]

No worries. The only other thing I would suggest is don't overload yourself with projectiles and powders to begin with, because it can be counter-productive.

Take a couple of known accuracy loads if you can - there are plenty of examples on the internet - and try to replicate those first (assuming they are the types of loads for the task at hand), matching them to your barrel (pay attention to other Tikka and Sako loads), and then load around them. If you have no luck, move on. If you find a good load, then decide if you really need another one. I've known guys to almost shoot out barrels trying different loads because they didn't follow a method or keep records and ended up putting 500 rounds or more downrange before they even started properly shooting!

We all know what it's like: I'm sure I'm not the only one with a bunch of different projectiles and powders that will probably never get used.

Good points, one of the places I discovered (projectile warehouse) was offering sample batches of 20 bullets, I thought that was a great idea, trouble is they only had one sample of 20 that was of interest to me.

[TassieTiger]

I have a cut down 260 rem varmint in tikka. Barrel started at 24” and is now 20.5”...was professionally shortened.5” at a time with testing in between each cut/crown for speed and powder burn.
120gn projectiles with 46gns ar2209 just eek over 3000fps with nosler hunting BT.(not my chrono - a friends). Previous owner had data showing 3130fps with 2208 and eldx projectile.

[Apollo]

Good points, one of the places I discovered (projectile warehouse) was offering sample batches of 20 bullets, I thought that was a great idea, trouble is they only had one sample of 20 that was of interest to me.

If you would like to PM me your postal details I can send you 20-30 each of the Berger 130gr VLD's and the 123gr Lapua Scenar's. I'll have to check the reloading room to see what I have in naked bullets as most all mine I use are Moly Coated so you wouldn't really want to play with those at this stage. The Berger VLD's will have been Meplat Pointed but that shouldn't be a major drama for a test. From memory all have been weight batched.

I probably won't be able to post until sometime next week when I go shopping and can get to a Post Office. Also live in the bush and town is an hours trip.

[Kel]

@ Apollo, that's a kind offer, thank you very much.

@ Tassie Tiger, thanks, I'm real curious to try 2208 & 9 to see how each works in my Tikka

[Sergeant Hartman]

After taking to a few people who are better at this shooting stuff. In a 24" barrel, 2209 is best for the creedmore.

Apollo, I have been interested in molly... but cannot find a supplier in Melbourne. I got a half used container from someone but I tried the wet method and found the powder not to stick anyway onto the projectiles.

Back to 6.5manbun. I think it's an America thing.... thuggery love local. So when hornady developed a cartridge it sort of took off, slowly first then as its 6.5 it just worked. I think their marketing team worked extra hard.

The 6 creedmoor is imho completely a marketing wet dream. Not only they sell the cartridges and cases... but once the barrel wear out as less as 1000-1500 rounds everyone who builds a barrel is even more happy

[Apollo]

After taking to a few people who are better at this shooting stuff. In a 24" barrel, 2209 is best for the creedmore.

Apollo, I have been interested in molly... but cannot find a supplier in Melbourne. I got a half used container from someone but I tried the wet method and found the powder not to stick anyway onto the projectiles.

Back to 6.5manbun. I think it's an America thing.... thuggery love local. So when hornady developed a cartridge it sort of took off, slowly first then as its 6.5 it just worked. I think their marketing team worked extra hard.

The 6 creedmoor is imho completely a marketing wet dream. Not only they sell the cartridges and cases... but once the barrel wear out as less as 1000-1500 rounds everyone who builds a barrel is even more happy

As I have said, I don't have a Creedmoor and it may well be that the longer Creedmore Case may like the slower powder better.

Molly, I use a Lyman Molly Kit and it's just a dry tumbler with thicker tubs but the bullets need to be hot as in I only really Molly coat in summer by doing everything outside in the sun. I only Molly coat for the reason of firing 50 rounds in competition shooting without having to clean at all during the day. Getting a load right is a pain with sorting out extra powder to get back accuracy and velocity to where they should be.

6 Creedmoor might be like other wildcat calibres pushing the limit, one being like 6.5x284 which burns barrels. Something has got to happen pushing a very hot powder charge down a small hole then again to think is where the flame is hottest from the angles produced in the case then exit the neck.

I haven't seen any info on expected barrel life from a Creedmoor. It's certainly not a .308 nor .223 so I imagine maybe like my 6.5x47L about 2-3,000 rounds at target accuracy.

I think the best thing that happened to the Creedmoor story was Lapua offering not only their quality cases but being used with small rifle primers like their other high pressure cases.

If I was to buy one I'd be reloading from day one, and doing like I do annealing every reload to see how long they last. Nice to have an AMP Induction Annealer.

[JimTom]

After taking to a few people who are better at this shooting stuff. In a 24" barrel, 2209 is best for the creedmore.

Apollo, I have been interested in molly... but cannot find a supplier in Melbourne. I got a half used container from someone but I tried the wet method and found the powder not to stick anyway onto the projectiles.

Back to 6.5manbun. I think it's an America thing.... thuggery love local. So when hornady developed a cartridge it sort of took off, slowly first then as its 6.5 it just worked. I think their marketing team worked extra hard.

The 6 creedmoor is imho completely a marketing wet dream. Not only they sell the cartridges and cases... but once the barrel wear out as less as 1000-1500 rounds everyone who builds a barrel is even more happy

My barrel is going to wear out after 1000-1500 rounds??
Hmmmm, don’t think so.

[Flyer]

He's talking about the 6mm version. I think the 6.5 has an accurate barrel life of 3,000 rounds or so, as Apollo mentioned. The 6mm Creedmoor would have to have similar barrel life to a 243 you'd think.

[JimTom]

Oops sorry mate. I see my mistake.

[Apollo]

Apollo, I have been interested in moly... but cannot find a supplier in Melbourne. I got a half used container from someone but I tried the wet method and found the powder not to stick anyway onto the projectiles.

BTW... Any Gunshop should be able to order Lyman Moly Kits and Components like a Bottle of Super Moly. As I mentioned I try and do all my coating during summer. I wash my bullets in Shellite to remove any oil or whatever, try not to handle any once clean or you will have trouble with the Moly sticking to the bullets. Dry in the sun to also heat the bullets as well as heat the media used to coat them. It's a dusty job so I try and do it all outside. It's pretty easy once you get the hang of it.

Also you will need to work your load up again as the Moly reduces friction in the barrel and hence lowers velocity. Once you have been using Moly Bullets it's hard to get the Moly out of the pores in the barrel metal.

Unless you are shooting a lot of rounds like in competition then I wouldn't be using Moly Bullets. Lots of stories of what Moly is supposed to do but in my view it doesn't do anything other than save cleaning a barrel during the day's competition and it seems to make cleaning a lot quicker at the end of the day.

[Gamerancher]

That's only because you aren't using a solvent that pulls the moly out of your barrel.

[Sergeant Hartman]

Thanks apollo.

[YoungSC]

Have a look at this too:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDHYzGg7Ucc

[SCJ429]

Thanks for the link YSC, very interesting HBN.