TassieTiger wrote:This is weird and a little baffling.
Originally had issues chambering re loads so amended the full length die and made it deeper. The rifle clearly has very tight tolerances.
So - resized the brass and test chambered, no issues.
Then prime, powder and seat bullet - won’t chamber...
Pull bullet, powder - brass won’t chamber.
Run brass through FL die again - and it chambers...
Does seating a bullet change the neck?? Any other ideas here??
SCJ429 wrote:Seating the pill does change the neck, it will make it bigger. Say your 30/06 brass is 332 after sizing, it should go 338 after seating. You need a few thou clearance to fit into the chamber safely so the fired case should come out at least 341. I doubt your factory chamber is that tight.
Do you think it is not chambering because of the neck, shoulder or case wall?
trekin wrote:Have you measured the diameter of the projectiles yet?
Stix wrote:So having checked the bullet diameter etc is correct for cartridge...and you can see daylight when having a gander down the barrel ensuring its clear...
the case with pulled bullet...dropped in ejection port of the rifle to chamber...muzzle down & rifle vertical giving a vibratory "shake" letting case 'fall' into chamber...does the bolt close...?
Bills Shed wrote:TT,
this is a stab in the dark but did you anneal the brass and if so how far down the case did you go. My reasoning is that if the brass is soft .....ish, when you seat the projectile the shoulder can be squashed a little,especially if seating flat base projectiles into unchanfered necks. Some times it takes a bit of pressure to get the projectile started into the neck and that pressure can collapse the shoulder very slightly with the end result being that the shoulder is a few thou larger in diameter and so the case will not chamber full. Just a guess but I have done it with smaller thinner cases when forming cases to smaller calls.
Measure one that chambers , at the shoulder, and one that will not, or, remove the seating die from the press, remove the seating stem out of the seating die , turn it over and place a non chambering round in the die (finger pressure only) and note how far it goes into the die and then do the same with a round that does chamber. Is there a difference? Remember this is just a guess.
Bill
JimTom wrote:Mate are you crimping the projectiles or just seating them? I had some projectiles with cannelure that I thought I would experiment with and crimp with my Redding dies. These would not chamber as the brass ended up with a small roll at the case mouth due to my incorrect die setup perhaps.
I don’t bother crimping, I just seat the projectiles now and have never had another issue.
TassieTiger wrote:Stix wrote:So having checked the bullet diameter etc is correct for cartridge...and you can see daylight when having a gander down the barrel ensuring its clear...
the case with pulled bullet...dropped in ejection port of the rifle to chamber...muzzle down & rifle vertical giving a vibratory "shake" letting case 'fall' into chamber...does the bolt close...?
The projectiles are 168 zmax .30. The seated fine. It’s def something to do with cases.
The bolt won’t close on 30 out of 50.
Of the 20 that would close, some were tight and some were perfect. I fired all the ones that allowed bolt closure - no primers indicated any high pressure issues.
Friend thinks might be worth while, tossing all the old 06 brass and starting again with new stuff - it’s clear this new sauer is tight as fark compared to steyr.
trekin wrote:TassieTiger wrote:Stix wrote:So having checked the bullet diameter etc is correct for cartridge...and you can see daylight when having a gander down the barrel ensuring its clear...
the case with pulled bullet...dropped in ejection port of the rifle to chamber...muzzle down & rifle vertical giving a vibratory "shake" letting case 'fall' into chamber...does the bolt close...?
The projectiles are 168 zmax .30. The seated fine. It’s def something to do with cases.
The bolt won’t close on 30 out of 50.
Of the 20 that would close, some were tight and some were perfect. I fired all the ones that allowed bolt closure - no primers indicated any high pressure issues.
Friend thinks might be worth while, tossing all the old 06 brass and starting again with new stuff - it’s clear this new sauer is tight as fark compared to steyr.
But have you actually measured the projectiles yet? It is not unknown for problems with the factorie's QC, even at the ratios, good to bad/box, you are speaking of.
Stix wrote:With all due respect Straightshooter....I dont think peoples responses here are any more a "lucky dip of suggestions" than yours...
In one way or another i see everyone is suggesting to check measurements/dimensions of cases & bullets.
And using a "published recipe" wouldnt appear to have anything to do with not being able to chamber the cartridges...i doubt he has doubled a published charge & stuffed it in with a ram rod.
Sorry...no angst...just saying...
Gaz52 wrote:Hi have you measured the neck diameter of the loaded rounds that failed to chamber? If i recall correctlythe case necks should only expand by around .002 inch when a bullet is seated. If the increase is markedly more it would indicate the inside dimensions are too small , requiring neck turning. Variable brass is a pain in the ass! Imho.
Gaz.
TassieTiger wrote:I do use a graphite for expander die - if I forget to do so, it screeches and grated and carry’s on. I case lube on a rolling pad and then dip the neck into graphite powder...
His point is that expander button was set way too high in the die - but I thought that the expander die simply reamed the neck for bullet seating and had nothing to do with shoulder?
Hey Tassie tiger mate i'm a little slow at learning and I had some gun issues like you when I bought my 7mm mag with the help of a few blokes on here and some learning of my own I sorted it out of sorts I eventually set my FL die up with a fired brass that had a light load so as not to deform or lengthen it too much if any then I set the primer pin remover to 5mm below the die I then found that the brass after FL sizing was hard to remove from the balled sizer on the primer remover I was told to use a dry lube and it's the one that's mentioned on here somewhere mines '' Imperial dry neck lube'' put only the first 10mm of the neck in and give it a couple of twists and you'll have no more sticking also I use ''One Shot'' lube for my brass when i'm sizing don't over do it or you'll get denting in the shoulder of the shell but other than that if the shell is trimmed to proper length all should run smooth i'm probably a little late with this but i'm no expert I keep it as simple as possible mainly for my own sake cheers