flutch wrote:TassieTiger wrote:You dont reload then...?
All the time, why try and make that misnomer?
My rifles clover leaf all day every day, I don't go to even half the pedantic steps others do, honestly can't see why they bother....
bigrich wrote:flutch wrote:TassieTiger wrote:You dont reload then...?
All the time, why try and make that misnomer?
My rifles clover leaf all day every day, I don't go to even half the pedantic steps others do, honestly can't see why they bother....
Well flutch, that’s great that you’re getting that sort of accuracy and performance out of your rifles without being overly pedantic. Some fellas rifles might not be as good as yours and need the extra work to give their best. Some folks try to attain the best they can just cause they want to. What rifles are you loading for mate ? You mentioned 223 and 270. What loads are you using ? And what brands of brass ?
TassieTiger wrote:Must be high end rifles ?
bigrich wrote:Sounds like some well sorted loads flutch . What type of thrower are you using. Must be a very accurate thrower. I went back to using Lee powder “dippers” cause depending on the type of powder. I didn’t find mine was consistent enough. What anealing process do you use ? Sit the brass in a tray of water and use a gas torch ? I don’t get into weighing my cases or anything like that. I only trim mine halfway between max and minimum case length. I try to leave plenty of neck for neck tension. This helps with 22 hornet. I get some pretty tight groups the way i’m Doing things, but anealing is the next skill I have to work at . I’m loading for 22 hornet, 222, 6.5x55 and 357 mag in a lever at the moment. Pistol rounds are nice and easy . Cheers
flutch wrote:bigrich wrote:Sounds like some well sorted loads flutch . What type of thrower are you using. Must be a very accurate thrower. I went back to using Lee powder “dippers” cause depending on the type of powder. I didn’t find mine was consistent enough. What anealing process do you use ? Sit the brass in a tray of water and use a gas torch ? I don’t get into weighing my cases or anything like that. I only trim mine halfway between max and minimum case length. I try to leave plenty of neck for neck tension. This helps with 22 hornet. I get some pretty tight groups the way i’m Doing things, but anealing is the next skill I have to work at . I’m loading for 22 hornet, 222, 6.5x55 and 357 mag in a lever at the moment. Pistol rounds are nice and easy . Cheers
Hey it's an old lee thrower, must be a Tuesday build as has no signs of mondayitis or Friday fails,
I anneal using the age old heat till it almost burns my finger and throw it in the tray of water technique, seems to work just fine, Bunnings gas torch.
flutch wrote:Some people must have some fussy as f*** rifles, my 223 and 270 both shoot just fine with a whole plethora of different factory ammo and brass, honestly for the life of me don't understand what 99% of the drama is about, use what you can buy
TassieTiger wrote:I bought some 223 Remington brass once that was all a fraction over trim to length size, meaning extra work from the off...
bigrich wrote:Sounds like some well sorted loads flutch . What type of thrower are you using. Must be a very accurate thrower. I went back to using Lee powder “dippers” cause depending on the type of powder. I didn’t find mine was consistent enough. What anealing process do you use ? Sit the brass in a tray of water and use a gas torch ? I don’t get into weighing my cases or anything like that. I only trim mine halfway between max and minimum case length. I try to leave plenty of neck for neck tension. This helps with 22 hornet. I get some pretty tight groups the way i’m Doing things, but anealing is the next skill I have to work at . I’m loading for 22 hornet, 222, 6.5x55 and 357 mag in a lever at the moment. Pistol rounds are nice and easy . Cheers
bladeracer wrote:TassieTiger wrote:I bought some 223 Remington brass once that was all a fraction over trim to length size, meaning extra work from the off...
I greatly prefer it to be over-length, so I can prep the batch all to the same length.
bladeracer wrote:bigrich wrote:Sounds like some well sorted loads flutch . What type of thrower are you using. Must be a very accurate thrower. I went back to using Lee powder “dippers” cause depending on the type of powder. I didn’t find mine was consistent enough. What anealing process do you use ? Sit the brass in a tray of water and use a gas torch ? I don’t get into weighing my cases or anything like that. I only trim mine halfway between max and minimum case length. I try to leave plenty of neck for neck tension. This helps with 22 hornet. I get some pretty tight groups the way i’m Doing things, but anealing is the next skill I have to work at . I’m loading for 22 hornet, 222, 6.5x55 and 357 mag in a lever at the moment. Pistol rounds are nice and easy . Cheers
I use the Lee Perfect Powder Measure, and I have been staunchly opposed to not weighing every charge But I tried it to get through a big batch of milsurp loads and it impressed the hell out of me.
I've never worked out how the stand-in-water-under-a-torch theory works, the torch just blows them over when I've tried it The socket-in-a-drill works better.
CrackThump wrote:so what IS a good new brass to buy .? without going top end like Lapua etc.?
good, cheap, long lasting brass (for .223)
bigrich wrote:some powders like benchmark 2 and lil gun measure well. but my favorite powder for my 6.5, RE22, is a long stick that doesn't measure well out of my hornady thrower . for my rifles i prefer to weigh each charge , just for my own piece of mind. i've gotten some amazing groups out of my old winchester 222 lately, one hole type stuff . i put it down to being ocd with this sort of thing . now that you mention it blade i remember the socket in a drill method . i'm gunna have to bite the bullet (pun intended ) and anneal some 6.5 cases soon. dunno if i'll try annealing hornet brass until i got some more experience , it's so thin it'll probably disolve if i'm not paying attention
TassieTiger wrote:When I was researching lapua brass prices - I found a few places selling sako brass at about 2/3 price of lapua...one would think they’d have a bit of a reputation to uphold and that it would be better than decent...
flutch wrote:TassieTiger wrote:Must be high end rifles ?
From what I've read higher end stuff tends to be fussy as hell, my 270 is a Remington 783 glass bedded to a Boyd stock, and my 223 is a varmint howa pillar bedded to a thumbhole stock
CrackThump wrote:so what IS a good new brass to buy .? without going top end like Lapua etc.?
good, cheap, long lasting brass (for .223)
SCJ429 wrote:You have done very well indeed if you can shoot five shot groups where each bullet hole is touching the others all day at 100 metres with a Remington 783 and in 270 which has not got the reputation for being the most inherently accurate case. Just imagine what you could do with a decent barrel in 6mm BR on your rifle, some Lapua brass and some care and attention to your reloading practices.
For the rest of us, getting the best brass we can is the foundation for getting an accurate load together.
duncan61 wrote:What is Minute of angle I am guessing it is a line 0 seconds 1 minute 0 degrees of centre
SCJ429 wrote:flutch wrote:TassieTiger wrote:Must be high end rifles ?
From what I've read higher end stuff tends to be fussy as hell, my 270 is a Remington 783 glass bedded to a Boyd stock, and my 223 is a varmint howa pillar bedded to a thumbhole stock
You have done very well indeed if you can shoot five shot groups where each bullet hole is touching the others all day at 100 metres with a Remington 783 and in 270 which has not got the reputation for being the most inherently accurate case. Just imagine what you could do with a decent barrel in 6mm BR on your rifle, some Lapua brass and some care and attention to your reloading practices.
For the rest of us, getting the best brass we can is the foundation for getting an accurate load together.