Converting Brass

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Converting Brass

Post by JimTom » 09 Jul 2019, 4:13 pm

G’day Gents.

Looking to convert some .222 and .223 brass to 300AAC.
Just thought I would throw it out to the brains trust to see if anyone had any hot tips for me. Have watched a few YouTube clips but would prefer advice from someone from here.
Any tips on the following appreciated:

Cutting brass
Type of lube used on cases
Any techniques used
Any sign of “spring back”
Or anything else you may think is useful.

Thanks in advance folk. Sincerely appreciated.
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Re: Converting Brass

Post by SCJ429 » 09 Jul 2019, 4:21 pm

I would use Imperial sizing wax to lube the neck. It is a lot of sizing up from 224 to 308. Do it in as many stages as you can. The brass can form thin spots as it is expanded and you are including part of the shoulder into the neck. You will need to neck turn and anneal your cases. Practice on some throw away cases first before you try your Lapua or Norma cases.
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Re: Converting Brass

Post by JimTom » 09 Jul 2019, 4:50 pm

Thanks mate, I was going to ask about annealing, none of the YouTube clips did that, whereas I thought it would be a good idea.
Not using expensive brass for it, just some old Winchester 223 and some old PMC 222 cases. They will prob only get used a few times then discarded.
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Re: Converting Brass

Post by SCJ429 » 09 Jul 2019, 5:19 pm

You could try without annealing and see how you go. I neck up 6mm cases to 308 and anneal the case because I want them to last.

For a bit of fun I necked 223 cases to 338 but that is becoming a bridge too far for this little case and I was splitting some of them.
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Re: Converting Brass

Post by SCJ429 » 09 Jul 2019, 5:42 pm

I use the 21st Centuary expander mandrel but you could use the expander button on your dies if they are the tapered type. That lube will be all important.
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Re: Converting Brass

Post by JimTom » 09 Jul 2019, 6:06 pm

Mate what do you recommend for cutting the brass down? I saw on one of the clips one bloke had a mini drop saw arrangement.
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Re: Converting Brass

Post by bladeracer » 09 Jul 2019, 6:42 pm

JimTom wrote:G’day Gents.

Looking to convert some .222 and .223 brass to 300AAC.
Just thought I would throw it out to the brains trust to see if anyone had any hot tips for me. Have watched a few YouTube clips but would prefer advice from someone from here.
Any tips on the following appreciated:

Cutting brass
Type of lube used on cases
Any techniques used
Any sign of “spring back”
Or anything else you may think is useful.

Thanks in advance folk. Sincerely appreciated.


.224" up to .308" I would probably anneal them, but try it first, it might work fine.
Run increasing expanders to open it a little at a time, .243", 264", 284". I use the Lee Sizing Lube in the tube and size .30-06 down to 6.5x58mm with no sticking problems.
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This is one that failed on fire-forming.
For trimming it roughly I just use a grinder, then trim to final length in the Quick Trim die.
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Re: Converting Brass

Post by JimTom » 09 Jul 2019, 7:54 pm

Thanks fellas. Sincerely appreciate the advice.
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Re: Converting Brass

Post by Strikey » 09 Jul 2019, 8:23 pm

SCJ429 wrote:I would use Imperial sizing wax to lube the neck. It is a lot of sizing up from 224 to 308. Do it in as many stages as you can. The brass can form thin spots as it is expanded and you are including part of the shoulder into the neck. You will need to neck turn and anneal your cases. Practice on some throw away cases first before you try your Lapua or Norma cases.


You might be on the wrong track there,223 cases are cut below the shoulder and the body necked down to 30cal to form the Blackout case not necking the 223 up to 30cal which would make it the 30 Apache I think. Winchester brass apparently forms alright to Blackout without neck turning but apparently ADI 223 brass is thick and needs to be turned to be able to form the neck.
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Re: Converting Brass

Post by SCJ429 » 09 Jul 2019, 8:52 pm

If that is the case you are necking down and not up which is much easier. The case walls are a very different hardness to the neck. You would definitely need to anneal after forming.

As for cutting the case off it wouldn't matter how bad the cut was as you would clean it up when you trim the case.

How different is the 300 Bk case compared to the 7.62x39?
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Re: Converting Brass

Post by marksman » 09 Jul 2019, 9:14 pm

Strikey wrote:
SCJ429 wrote:I would use Imperial sizing wax to lube the neck. It is a lot of sizing up from 224 to 308. Do it in as many stages as you can. The brass can form thin spots as it is expanded and you are including part of the shoulder into the neck. You will need to neck turn and anneal your cases. Practice on some throw away cases first before you try your Lapua or Norma cases.


You might be on the wrong track there,223 cases are cut below the shoulder and the body necked down to 30cal to form the Blackout case not necking the 223 up to 30cal which would make it the 30 Apache I think. Winchester brass apparently forms alright to Blackout without neck turning but apparently ADI 223 brass is thick and needs to be turned to be able to form the neck.


+1 :thumbsup:

I will add a mate has made thousands and recons the cases are hit and miss as the thickness is not as concentric at the area of your new neck
do your research if the cases are to thick in that area they can cause high pressure if they will chamber
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Re: Converting Brass

Post by Sarco » 09 Jul 2019, 9:38 pm

I have done a few, maybe about 100, from 223 Rem cases, but decided it was to much stuffing around and gave it away. Instead I picked up a pile of 221 Fireball cases and necked them up to 30 cal as they are already the right length. Done in 2 steps originally, up to 270, then to 30 cal, though I did most direct to 30cal which was OK other than the occasional split (maybe 1 in about 100), Didn't anneal and still haven't. So far have found no issues.

These days, it is probably easier to just buy 300BO cases in the first place, while new are relatively expensive, occasionally once fired come up on Used Guns etc.

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Re: Converting Brass

Post by hunting99 » 09 Jul 2019, 9:48 pm

When making 300AAC brass from 223. I select the thinnest brand of cases I got on hand. Then I set up a lathe with the Lee quick trim. First I cut the brass roughly to length with the lathe tool the finish off with the quick trim, all in one go. Then size, with what ever lube you got on hand. Load, crimp and shoot.
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Re: Converting Brass

Post by JimTom » 10 Jul 2019, 7:10 am

The only reason I am bothering is that i have a heap of old .222 and .223 cases that I thought I would use one last time as 300AAC.
Given that good 300AAC brass is only $65/100 (ADI) I am wondering if it is worth the effort.
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Re: Converting Brass

Post by in2anity » 10 Jul 2019, 9:43 am

JimTom wrote:The only reason I am bothering is that i have a heap of old .222 and .223 cases that I thought I would use one last time as 300AAC.
Given that good 300AAC brass is only $65/100 (ADI) I am wondering if it is worth the effort.

Mate on a side note, how are are you finding your RARR? What projectile are you using? Any issues with feeding? Any issues with neck tension? I feel mine paired with the shorter 125 gr spitzers feeds up at a steeper than designed angle, and tends to want to knock the projectile down a little (when feeding from the factory magazine )- this is part of the reason I feel tight necks are particularly important with that gun+projectile.... just curious about your take on it JimTom. :drinks:
Last edited by in2anity on 10 Jul 2019, 10:07 am, edited 1 time in total.
At what point does lack of maintenance become patina?
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Re: Converting Brass

Post by SCJ429 » 10 Jul 2019, 9:53 am

Give it a go JT, it is good fun and you learn a lot about drawing brass. Even if they all end up in the bin.
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Re: Converting Brass

Post by JimTom » 11 Jul 2019, 12:41 am

in2anity wrote:
JimTom wrote:The only reason I am bothering is that i have a heap of old .222 and .223 cases that I thought I would use one last time as 300AAC.
Given that good 300AAC brass is only $65/100 (ADI) I am wondering if it is worth the effort.

Mate on a side note, how are are you finding your RARR? What projectile are you using? Any issues with feeding? Any issues with neck tension? I feel mine paired with the shorter 125 gr spitzers feeds up at a steeper than designed angle, and tends to want to knock the projectile down a little (when feeding from the factory magazine )- this is part of the reason I feel tight necks are particularly important with that gun+projectile.... just curious about your take on it JimTom. :drinks:


Mate my Ruger American Ranch in 300AAC shoots 5 shot groups 1/2” at 100m, which is as good as my 6.5Cm
Sako. I recommend it highly. I tried Speer 130gr HP but had trouble getting them to feed.
I am using Hornady 125gr SST with 17.5gr AR2205 in an
ADI case. They are exceptionally accurate mate.
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Re: Converting Brass

Post by JimTom » 11 Jul 2019, 12:43 am

Absolutely no issues with feeding or neck tension.
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Re: Converting Brass

Post by in2anity » 11 Jul 2019, 11:49 am

Ok thanks for the feedback JT :drinks:
At what point does lack of maintenance become patina?
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Re: Converting Brass

Post by JimTom » 24 Aug 2019, 8:50 am

SCJ429 wrote:Give it a go JT, it is good fun and you learn a lot about drawing brass. Even if they all end up in the bin.


Have converted a few .222 cases into 300AAC. I did lose a few when sizing up, seem to have it sorted out now though. Expander die works a treat. Neck wall thickness is ok, and dummy round seemed to chamber well. Looking to make a jig for shells to make cutting them down an easier task. At present I am cutting one case at a time with a cutting disk on angle grinder. Bit rough however cutting them a bit longer and then trimming them back. Will load a few up and see how they go after firing them.
Converting .223 brass to 300AAC obviously a much easier task as previously stated as it’s an exercising of necking down as opposed to necking up with a .222 case.
Will post a few pics once I get back from work and convert a few more.
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Re: Converting Brass

Post by Blr243 » 24 Aug 2019, 12:55 pm

Mini dropsaw would need a very fine blade. And slow and a good case holding technique. Most of the time people hurt themselves on a dropsaw is when they are cutting small pieces. When holding small pieces there is a school of thought that if the blade grabs and drags your hand into the blade you can just let go of the piece .......But that’s nonsense .....you can’t actually think that fast. It will drag u in and take your fingers before you know about it. A bit off topic but I thought I would share in case it might help somebody stay safe. And yes I do still have all my fingers. I need them
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Re: Converting Brass

Post by bladeracer » 25 Aug 2019, 7:08 am

JimTom wrote:Converting .223 brass to 300AAC obviously a much easier task as previously stated as it’s an exercising of necking down as opposed to necking up with a .222 case.


What do you mean by necking down instead of up? .222Rem and .223Rem are the same neck diameter - .224". you neck both up to .308" for 300BLK.
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Re: Converting Brass

Post by JimTom » 25 Aug 2019, 7:35 am

bladeracer wrote:
JimTom wrote:Converting .223 brass to 300AAC obviously a much easier task as previously stated as it’s an exercising of necking down as opposed to necking up with a .222 case.


What do you mean by necking down instead of up? .222Rem and .223Rem are the same neck diameter - .224". you neck both up to .308" for 300BLK.


I see how you come to that conclusion however when you cut the 222 brass to length, you are actually cutting through the neck which is as we know .224.
When you cut the 223 brass, you are cutting the brass behind the shoulder which is greater than .308.
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Re: Converting Brass

Post by JimTom » 25 Aug 2019, 7:43 am

The length of the 300AAC case in the ADI load data in 1.363”. If you compare that to the specs of the 222 and 223 cases, you will see what I mean mate. It’s all to do with where the shoulder is on the case. I thought forming 300AAC from 222 and 223 cases would be the same u til I actually started doing it.
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Re: Converting Brass

Post by in2anity » 25 Aug 2019, 8:55 am

JT do you feel there is any advantage/disadvantage in using 222 brass?
At what point does lack of maintenance become patina?
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Re: Converting Brass

Post by JimTom » 25 Aug 2019, 9:36 am

in2anity wrote:JT do you feel there is any advantage/disadvantage in using 222 brass?



Not at all mate, if anything it is harder to form. Only reason I am doing it is that I have a surplus of old 222 brass. If it weren’t for that fact I would just be converting my old 223 brass if I bothered at all. At the end of the day you can buy good ADI 3000AAC brass for $65/100.
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Re: Converting Brass

Post by JimTom » 25 Aug 2019, 9:42 am

I am doing it more out of interest sake than out of necessity mate. Gives me something new to do having not tried it before.
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Re: Converting Brass

Post by in2anity » 25 Aug 2019, 1:32 pm

I'm using Jagemann brass currently - no signs of splitting, although some of the primer pockets were getting a little loose after hot lil'gun loads. I think the blk yields good case life, especially if FL resizing is avoided.
At what point does lack of maintenance become patina?
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Re: Converting Brass

Post by JimTom » 26 Aug 2019, 2:32 pm

I have seen some of that starting to creep into local shops. Think I will stick with the ADI for the reloads, seems to be good so far, and my old converted brass for quad bike ops when brass has a tendency to be lost.
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Re: Converting Brass

Post by JimTom » 07 Oct 2019, 6:24 am

For those that are interested I did manage to successfully convert the .222 brass into 300AAC. I learned a few things along the way, and now have a pretty good supply of brass for the blackout.
After cutting the brass with an angle grinder, I then annealed the brass as I found I had about 1 in 5 split when expanding if I didn’t anneal.
Next they went through an interim expander die, then through the 300AAC full length die.
Of course then the cases were trimmed to size, champfer and deburred.
Have loaded and fired a few now and have had no issues whatsoever.
In saying that I can now see why most people just convert .223 brass as it would be a far easier process. Still it was a good learning experience and I know have a healthy supply of expendable brass.
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