Primers sticking out

[Potatoes]

When priming my empty 223 cases, they start off with a case length trimmed to 1.750. After priming, the case length may 1.750-1.754”. Is this acceptable? Im using hornady brass and cci 400 primers.

[SCJ429]

Try to seat your primers two to three thou under flush. Are you seating the primer as deep as they will go?

[Sarco]

If the primer is properly seated I would expect it to be either flush with the base or maybe even 1-2 thousandth below the base of the case. Some presses allow the primer seating depth to be adjusted so depending on your press you may need to adjust slightly.

Other than that, I can only think that a change in measuring technique may be the issue. Or perhaps even of seating methodology.

[in2anity]

Mate you can feel it with your finger - do they feel flush? Or flat even? If they’re bulging, you should be able to feel it... rub your finger over them every time you seat the primer. Also what brand brass are they?

[Potatoes]

The primers are seated as far as they will go. Im also cleaning out the pocket. They feel flush, but we’re only talking a few thou, but i can measure the protrusions with calipers and they can sometimes wobble a bit on a flat surface.

[Stix]

Hey spuds... this is what i do too...

Mate you can feel it with your finger - do they feel flush? Or flat even? If they’re bulging, you should be able to feel it... rub your finger over them every time you seat the primer. Also what brand brass are they?

you'd be surprisd what little differential you can feel with your finger...

Maybe you need to consider buying a primer pocket uniforming tool...

I have one of these & am led to believe they are one of the better on the market...
http://brtshooterssupply.com.au/product ... r-kit.html

Make sure the primers are at least flush with the case head before you charge them...especially if you are seating the bullets close to the lands...

[in2anity]

If most of them feel flush, and they chamber ok, I’d shoot them. If you’re worried you could load them mild for peace of mind, at least the first time around. Are you new to reloading the 223 taters?

[bladeracer]

When priming my empty 223 cases, they start off with a case length trimmed to 1.750. After priming, the case length may 1.750-1.754”. Is this acceptable? Im using hornady brass and cci 400 primers.

Are you sizing the case, trimming it length, measuring it, then priming it separately?
Sizing will change the case length.

[SCJ429]

You want to clean out the carbon prom your pocket before seating your primer. For best consistency the little anvil inside the primer should be in contact with the bottom of the primer pocket. The top of the primer should be at least two thou and up to five thou below flush. As Stix said, if you don't have enough depth to seat them below flush, you need to cut the primer pocket deeper. It is unusual to have to do this unless you have been squaring up the case head.

[sungazer]

If they rock or dont stand up straight on a flat surface you have a problem. They need to be seated at least flush. If not you are right the case length has changed and you may have problems closing and opening the bolt.

[JimTom]

Something not right there mate for sure. As most have eluded to already, they should be at least flush. Primer pocket perhaps not cleaned out properly or may require to be reamed and or uniformed.

[Sergeant Hartman]

Can you please put a couple pictures up 4 eveyone to look. Thanks

[Potatoes]

Hey stix that tool from brt looks the ticket, I’ll give that a try.

Bladeracer, im measuring before and after priming, no other steps in between. Its definitely the primer.

In2anity, yes i am new to reloading, Ive reloaded about 1000 rounds in my first year with a mixture of good and meh results with a few different projectiles of 55, 70, and 60gr. I figured if i was going to get into this reloading game, 223 would be one of the cheapest and easiest offerings, giving me a bit of room to experiment a bit and learn about these tedious issues that pop up from time to time before moving up.

Sungazer, ive noticed a few tightish bolt closes. Initially i thought it was because of bullet seating, but it was definitely the primer.

[in2anity]

Hey stix that tool from brt looks the ticket, I’ll give that a try.
In2anity, yes i am new to reloading, Ive reloaded about 1000 rounds in my first year with a mixture of good and meh results with a few different projectiles of 55, 70, and 60gr. I figured if i was going to get into this reloading game, 223 would be one of the cheapest and easiest offerings, giving me a bit of room to experiment a bit and learn about these tedious issues that pop up from time to time before moving up.

I'd hardly call 1000 reloads "new to the game" mate - you've obviously not blown your face off after 1000 times The obvious questions for me are 1) what brand brass are you having the problem with? 2) what brand primers are you having the problem with? 3) what priming tool are you using? 4) what number reload are you up on the problem brass?

The 223 is easy to reload IMO - my bet is that your not doing anything wrong, rather the consumables you are working with are just perhaps a little "non-standard".

Also, if you're using mixed range brass, I reckon having a few stinkers in the group is kinda to be expected.

[wanneroo]

There is always the potential for inconsistencies in manufacturing tolerances. Plus brass is going to stretch and compress when fired which is going to change things. I'd try out a primer pocket uniformer and reamer and see how that goes.

[Blr243]

I have been reloading forever and not once have I de burred or cleaned or adjusted a primer pocket in any way. The crazy ol bloke who taught me said just to use a lee hand primer tool rather than a press because he liked to feel it correctly. He said it’s got to be flush or a tiny fraction under. As I’m seating the primer I just stop when I feel it bottom out Sounds like your particular brass is a bit different in some way

[SCJ429]

I have been reloading forever and not once have I de burred or cleaned or adjusted a primer pocket in any way. The crazy ol bloke who taught me said just to use a lee hand primer tool rather than a press because he liked to feel it correctly. He said it’s got to be flush or a tiny fraction under. As I’m seating the primer I just stop when I feel it bottom out Sounds like your particular brass is a bit different in some way

Might be time to make a small improvement to your reloading process and give the flash hole a quick clean. Lots of little things make the difference to throwing stuff together and making some quality ammunition.

[Blr243]

Does corn cob media in a vibrating machine do that for me of is there a special tool I have to use on each case to clean the flash hole?

[9.3x64]

If they rock or dont stand up straight on a flat surface you have a problem. They need to be seated at least flush. If not you are right the case length has changed and you may have problems closing and opening the bolt.

This is what I do after seating every primer.
If they rock and don’t settle straight something is not right.

[Potatoes]

Does corn cob media in a vibrating machine do that for me of is there a special tool I have to use on each case to clean the flash hole?

As with everything reloading related there’s an $xx tool for that.

[Blr243]

I like the idea of uniform reaming or slightly enlarging the flash hole but I want to clean only and not increase the diameter or depth of my primer pockets so there’s prob a tool for that. Sounds like a rainy day job but I’m mostly loaded with bugger all empties at the moment

[Potatoes]

[quote="in2anity”]

I'd hardly call 1000 reloads "new to the game" mate - you've obviously not blown your face off after 1000 times The obvious questions for me are 1) what brand brass are you having the problem with? 2) what brand primers are you having the problem with? 3) what priming tool are you using? 4) what number reload are you up on the problem brass?

The 223 is easy to reload IMO - my bet is that your not doing anything wrong, rather the consumables you are working with are just perhaps a little "non-standard".

Also, if you're using mixed range brass, I reckon having a few stinkers in the group is kinda to be expected.[/quote]

Hey mate heres the breakdown

1) hornady, (.223, not 5.56). I know better brass is available, but i know my loads with this stuff so not overly keen to change brand. This is from my bulk pirchase of tap factory ammo when i bought the rifle.

2) cci 400 small rifle

3) lee press. I got the lee challenger kit. The hand primer was hopeless so i turfed it.

4) good question. Soom have been reloaded maybe 5 times, but others maybe once or twice. I don’t know which is which. I’m about to turf the lot because i have sixty once fired cases in waiting and still have over a hundred of the original tap ammo i initially bought which can be fired off. I think my current brass has copped a bit of beginner punishment, like over working and the odd hot load.

Another thing, is there some way you can mark or engrave brass to tally firings that wont damage the brass and survive cleaning, like a light engraving on the headstamp?

[Wm.Traynor]

Potatoes
re your final question
FWIW I have always kept brass of different shooting histories in separate containers, with a neat, detailed note about rounds fired, number of times FLS, primer, charge weight etc.

[SCJ429]

I prepare 100 cases and stick them in their own box. They never get mixed in with other brass so they would all have been fired the same amount of times. If it was Lapua brass I would say anneal it to get the brass all uniform but since you have Hornady brass and heaps of it, just start on your other stuff. Hornadys annealing isn't great to start with, sometimes you will find split necks after only a couple of firings.

[in2anity]

Hey mate heres the breakdown

1) hornady, (.223, not 5.56). I know better brass is available, but i know my loads with this stuff so not overly keen to change brand. This is from my bulk pirchase of tap factory ammo when i bought the rifle.

2) cci 400 small rifle

3) lee press. I got the lee challenger kit. The hand primer was hopeless so i turfed it.

4) good question. Soom have been reloaded maybe 5 times, but others maybe once or twice. I don’t know which is which. I’m about to turf the lot because i have sixty once fired cases in waiting and still have over a hundred of the original tap ammo i initially bought which can be fired off. I think my current brass has copped a bit of beginner punishment, like over working and the odd hot load.

Another thing, is there some way you can mark or engrave brass to tally firings that wont damage the brass and survive cleaning, like a light engraving on the headstamp?

Hmm ok. Well there's nothing wrong with the virgin Hornady handloader's brass - but in my experience, reusing Hornady factory is a bit of a different story (not sure if this is the case for you). And from what I can recall, it has always been the crappy primer pockets that has put me off reusing the Hornady factory stuff in the past. It might be worth steering clear of Hornady factory if you plan to recycle.

W.R.T keeping a count - I'm the same as SCJ - I cook up a 100x box of 223 in one hit. Then I just slowly work through it, which usually lasts me around 3-4 sittings (depending on my schedule; configurations range from approximately ~20 to ~30 per-sitting, fortunately our club calendar is set well in advance so this is easy to plan for). I don't touch the spent shells until all 100 are shot, at which point I mostly neck size, or bump if they are starting to get tight. Then I just write on the box what reload I'm up to.

Essentially the same for Service, although I only have a box of 50 for the bigger boys. BTW FWIW I use Hornady 303brit, as it's what the NSWRA store has - and that brass is as good as any. In the past I've also used virgin Hornady 30/30 brass, and that was way better than the Hornady 30/30 factory brass.

[JimTom]

Potatoes
re your final question
FWIW I have always kept brass of different shooting histories in separate containers, with a neat, detailed note about rounds fired, number of times FLS, primer, charge weight etc.

I do this as well mate. I think it’s good practice.

[Sergeant Hartman]

Mate, gonna all a dumb question. The tap brass had a primery pocket crimp, did you take the crimp out? If not that is probably your 1st issue

[Potatoes]

Mate, gonna all a dumb question. The tap brass had a primery pocket crimp, did you take the crimp out? If not that is probably your 1st issue

No crimp. I compared the 223 hornady tap to the 556 tap, and it looked to me like the 556 tap did have a crimp, so i steered clear of it.

[wanneroo]

The other thing I have seen is variations in primers. I found for instance S&B primers more a tight fit than CCI. You can always try a different primer brand to see if that helps.

[Stix]

[
Hey mate heres the breakdown

1) hornady, (.223, not 5.56). I know better brass is available, but i know my loads with this stuff so not overly keen to change brand. This is from my bulk pirchase of tap factory ammo when i bought the rifle.

2) cci 400 small rifle

3) lee press. I got the lee challenger kit. The hand primer was hopeless so i turfed it.

4) good question. Soom have been reloaded maybe 5 times, but others maybe once or twice. I don’t know which is which. I’m about to turf the lot because i have sixty once fired cases in waiting and still have over a hundred of the original tap ammo i initially bought which can be fired off. I think my current brass has copped a bit of beginner punishment, like over working and the odd hot load.

Another thing, is there some way you can mark or engrave brass to tally firings that wont damage the brass and survive cleaning, like a light engraving on the headstamp?

While your buying that primer pocket uniformer, get one of these as well...you may as well get one each for both small & large if you have small 20 cals too.
https://brtshooterssupply.com.au/produc ... o-062.html

As for your brass...
Id shoot off all the other brass so & keep all the once fired stuff seperate...

Weigh it out if you have electronic scales...(i dont want to start an arguement about weight sorting--im saying what id do)...
If you're so inclined, volume test it all with water before you load it...if not just weight sort it.
Pick a batch of 100 from the middle of those once fired cases, & divide it into 2 lots of 50...have a few of the extras to make the batch into lots of 55-60, so you can replace cases as they split or fail in any way, or are notably giving vastly different tension &/or results on paper.

Like the other guys, i too keep batches seperate with history as to how many loadings, but i divide all my batches of 100 into 2 of 50...that way i dont have as much work to do each time, & i keep on top of what i have available...so when batch 2 of the 100 is down to 20 & i still havent loaded the batch 1, i know i have to pull my finger out & get prepping...
Also, a box of 50 is easier to sit at my feet in the car while spotlighting, where a 100 box is just a PITA...