Matching factory ammo for reloading?

[Khan]

I'm looking to start reloading after quick a while shooting factory ammo.

I'm really doing it for keeping ammo costs down rather than finding the "best" load for my rifle. If it shoots inch groups like most factory ammo does for me, that's good enough for me.

Is just matching load data bullet weight and velocity to some factory ammo a sensible thing to do to start out?

[tarnagulla]

You are right about reducing the cost - reloads are around half to two-thirds the cost of factory ammo, but if you only use say 100 rounds per year the cost of reloading gear might outweigh any savings.

That said - it is common to find that "handloads" usually (though not always) outdo a factory load (depending on the individual rifle). Indeed, it is the fact that few rifles, even of the same brand/model/calibre, give the same accuracy with the same load that makes reloading worthwhile - along with the savings in costs!

I would start with a good guide - say the ADI on-line or hard copy latest version - and work up loads from there (NOT starting with a maximum load and working down).

Duplicating factory velocity etc. will require a chronograph, for any given bullet weight. I would suggest, if you have a favourite projectile, work up a load for best accuracy with that projectile, and don't worry too much about velocity, unless you want to buy a chrony, as well as the reloading press, scales, dies etc.

[Khan]

At the moment I would probably shoot 200 rounds a year or something? Cheaper rounds will let me get a few more down range each trip though which won't hurt

I know my matches won't be exact, but I figure something along these lines is a good start...
Federal 150gr soft points shoot good in my rifle. The pack says muzzle their muzzle velocity is 2820fps.
ADI load data for a 150gr bullet with 44gr of AR2208 says muzzle velocity is 2790fps.

Just 30fps difference...

I figure if I do 44.1 or 44.2 grains of powder that will be close enough?

[Harper]

Factory ammo isn't the universal best load or anything, it's usually high power so they can write big numbers on the packet.

Could turn out great, but you'd just be picking a random point in the load data really if you were matching factory ammo.

[Granting]

Even if you can't be bothered fine tuning loads to .1gr you would at least give a few a go.

Start at the minimum and go by .5 gr for each load, you will probably only have to do 6-7 different loads depending on what pills your shooting.

I know you said inch groups are good enough for your which is cool, but for the sake of trying a few loads you could find one that cloverleafs for you.

[Aussier]

Even if you can't be bothered fine tuning loads to .1gr you would at least give a few a go.

Start at the minimum and go by .5 gr for each load, you will probably only have to do 6-7 different loads depending on what pills your shooting.

Just do .5gr loads till you find what works best out of those, then try a few .1gr up and down from that one.

[Khan]

Just do .5gr loads till you find what works best out of those, then try a few .1gr up and down from that one.

.5 gr loads I can do. Definitely couldn't be bothered doing .1 gr loads though and having to try 50 different ones, ha.

[ebr love]

Just do .5gr loads till you find what works best out of those, then try a few .1gr up and down from that one.

.5 gr loads I can do. Definitely couldn't be bothered doing .1 gr loads though and having to try 50 different ones, ha.

There is no need to try every .1gr increment in the range. As has been outlined, just do .5gr difference loads to find the right neighbourhood then fine tune in .1gr loads from there.

Depending on the bullets/powder you're using, you'll be looking 6-7 .5gr difference loads to find the right area, then 3-4 .1gr loads on each side of the on that works best.

10-12 different loads and you'll have the best one for your rifle.