Loading the 50-70gov

[Kelsey Cooter]

I've bought a trapdoor 50-70 and am looking for everything I'll need for loading for it.
I've bought 50 starline cases but that's as far as I've gotten.
I'm thinking I'd like to use RCBS dies but haven't found them yet.
What projectile mould do people recommend for the 50-70?

[Noisydad]

Been shooting a .50-70 Husqvarna rolling block for some time.
I’m using Lyman dies and a Lee 450 gn bullet Mold and pure lead as the rifling is so crazy deep the bullet is actually swaged hexagonal.
With 55 gns 2F black powder it’ll shoot a 2.3” group at 100 with its iron sights and hits dead on at 200. I currently hold the club trophy for that event with this rifle.

[TassieTiger]

^ confused noisy...shoots a 2.3” at 100 but shoots dead on at 200 ? I’d have thought the group size would have increased at 200...?

[Kelsey Cooter]

Been shooting a .50-70 Husqvarna rolling block for some time.
I’m using a Lee 450 gn bullet Mold and pure lead as the rifling is so crazy deep the bullet is actually swaged hexagonal.
With 55 gns 2F black powder it’ll shoot a 2.3” group at 100 with its iron sights and hits dead on at 200. I currently hold the club trophy for that event with this rifle.

Thanks Noisy! What dies do you use mate?
I'm an absolute amateur with the black smokey stuff, currently I only have 3F. Will this be useable or do I need to wait for 2F?

[Noisydad]

3F will work fine but I’d expect a bit less accuracy than 2F. The group from my rifle halved when loaded with 2F. Your mileage may vary. I use Lyman dies. You can get them from Roger Mowbray (He’s the new Pedersoli distributer) In northern vic. He actually keeps them in stock.

[Kelsey Cooter]

Thanks mate, is your rolling block original? What is the 50 like to shoot compared to a 45-70?

[Noisydad]

Mine was built 1871. Recoil is mild with BP. More like a big heavy push though my roller is heavy ish with its 36” barrel. Trapdoor Recoil may feel a smidge heavier. Trapdoors are fun. I have a H&R carbine version in .45-70

[Kelsey Cooter]

Oh I'm envious of your h&r carbine. I bid on the 1873 carbine in the last auction, it had a replaced barrel and uberti saddle ring, so I thought my max bid of 2200 was way to high but it got to 2600!

[Kelsey Cooter]

Picked up the 50-70 yesterday and it's so cool I have to show it off!

[Kelsey Cooter]

The US Springfield

[Kelsey Cooter]

1870 trapdoor conversion

[Kelsey Cooter]

1863 lock plate

[Noisydad]

Now that’s cool! There’s something special about shooting with a single shot rifle that old that using modern rifles just can’t come close too!

[LawrenceA]

Hi Kelsey
Congrats on the Springfield.
I don't shoot a 50-70 but do shoot hunt and load 45-70 and 577-450.
Firstly may I suggest that you start with a Lee mold.
They are cheap but very good and Lee do a 50-70 specific mold for a 525 bullet at 0.515.
By the time you wear it out (which you may do) you will have a better idea what to purchase.
If you are going to get a better mold then wait till you have slugged the throat and then purchase a custom mold from someone like Accurate molds that will make a mold to suit your rifles throat.
Secondly do not full length size your cases. There is no point and without resizing they will last a very, very long time. You need to be able to reprime, flare, seat and remove the flair.
Put your fired cases in water (with a little soap) as soon as you can after firing them to prevent brass corrosion. If you buy more cases look for Nickel.
Make sure you use a BP lube not a modern one. I have found that using a wad column virtually eliminates fouling build up. I use a OP card a lubed felt wad then 2 OS wads.
You probably know these rules but make sure there is no gap between the powder and the bullet and there is no problem with compressing the load.
The Springfield battle sights (on the latter model at least) was designed to be aimed at the belt buckle out to 246yards so my 45-70 (original 1884 model) shot about 12" high at 100'. No good for hunting so I made a new front sight insert and made it 1" high at 100'.

I would love to see how you go.
Sorry had to add a couple of pics.

[Kelsey Cooter]

Thanks for the advice Lawrence! When you say don't full length resize, do you mean do not use that die at all? Or just use it enough so where the projectile sits is queezed in a touch?

I plan on buying the lee 450gr mold, sounds like that is the closest to the original projectiles.

I haven't bought dies yet, sounds like only the lyman dies are available in oz at the moment.

My local doesn't have 2f either, so will start with 3f until I can find some.

[LawrenceA]

I dont size at all.
The bullet should be about .002" over the throat size. Basically the bullet should be a push fit into the unsized (but slightly flared to aid bullet seating) case.

Don't be overly bothered by using ffg over fffg as it is possible you will not fit a full 70 grains in so dropping to 60-65grains of FFFg will give the same pressure as 70 grains FFg.
This may be of interest. LOTS of good info on this site.
While you do not need to crimp I have found the Lee factroy crimp die an awesome bit of gear especially for these thin walled shells.
You may choose to see if this is available in 50-70 to remove the flair or crimp if required.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthr ... nment-Load