Best Reloading Handbook

[Nath__111]

Hey Guys, I’m new to the whole reloading thing and was just wondering what the best reloading handbook to purchase is. I’m after the best handbook for reading through and getting a better understanding of the whole reloading process. I am also after a book to guide a beginner and I want the book to cover the data for a .243 Winchester . The Richard lee 2nd edition for $50 seems readily available is this ok for what I’m after. There seems to be an updated edition in 2017, 2019 and then 2021 is there a big difference? Or is there a better book that would suit what I’m after. Any input is always greatly appreciated. Thanks guys

[disco stu]

There are some you can download, links are in the diy reloading gear thread. I think I've read 3 or 4 now, including a hard copy Nick Harvey I've borrowed off a neighbor.

I've found they all go over the same stuff basically, but put different emphasis on different parts, or do it in a bit different way so reading a few seems like a good idea.

I think any you find will have 243 datain it as it's a common cartridge. Don't forget you can get data from powder manufacturer and bullet makers

[bladeracer]

Hey Guys, I’m new to the whole reloading thing and was just wondering what the best reloading handbook to purchase is. I’m after the best handbook for reading through and getting a better understanding of the whole reloading process. I am also after a book to guide a beginner and I want the book to cover the data for a .243 Winchester . The Richard lee 2nd edition for $50 seems readily available is this ok for what I’m after. There seems to be an updated edition in 2017, 2019 and then 2021 is there a big difference? Or is there a better book that would suit what I’m after. Any input is always greatly appreciated. Thanks guys

I like books, and it's great to be able to grab one off the shelf for a read.
But really, these days everything you need is online some where. I learned from reading Sporting Shooter Magazine and writing (including the stamped SAE of course!) to Nick Harvey requesting load data, but that was back when life was so much simpler than today

Youtube is a brilliant resource now, as are forums, including this one. There have been few major advances in reloading, most of it is the same as it was in the late 1800's, particularly the basics of what it's about. Ned Kelly hadn't heard of powdercoat for example, and smokeless powders came about just after he died, but we're still just sticking powder and bullets into our brass

Reloading manuals are not cheap. I would see if your local library can get you some to read, then you can decide which one(s) you find the best and order your own copies. I just had a quick look and my local library has Grennell's ABC's of Reloading 1975 on the shelf, but they can order books from other libraries.
https://lcls.libsvic.ent.sirsidynix.net ... &lm=LCLS-S

You don't need books for load data, all powder and many bullet manufacturers have data online now, though much of it is computer modelled rather than empirical.

I posted links to some manuals just the other day if you want to get a feel for some.
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=16165#p279020

[Bugman]

As br said, online info is very good. I have only one reloading manual and that is the ADI book. ( I use it for my 243) Your case, bullet seating. overall length(s) can all be found online.

[bigrich]

As br said, online info is very good. I have only one reloading manual and that is the ADI book. ( I use it for my 243) Your case, bullet seating. overall length(s) can all be found online.

I agree , you can find lots of relevant info online. But as I’m old school, I like my books . I have a hornady book, ADI manual, and uncle nicks manual. The hornady book is good for getting trim lengths and hornady projectile related data as well as a brief overview on cartridges.
Uncle nicks has been the most valuable as he’s tried lots of different brands of powders for his loads. I’ve had excellent results with alliant powders from some of his loads.

[Oldbloke]

A simple one to follow.

https://www.rcbs.com/rcbs-downloadable-guide.html

[Peter988]

I am a dinosaur. Reloading Simplified by Cyril Waterworth. Published in 1973. It might be a bit dated by now lol. But the others are correct. It’s a simple process. Knock the primer out, stick a new one in, then powder and a projectile. Couple minutes. Have you got instructions for setting up the Simplex? Once you set that, it stays that way. The only variables after that are different powder weights and different projectiles. That’s the fun bit. Loading and testing. And all the powder data relating to different projectiles is on the Net.

[JimTom]

YouTube is your friend mate. Plenty of how to stuff on there to compliment the reading you will do.

[bigrich]

Hey Guys, I’m new to the whole reloading thing and was just wondering what the best reloading handbook to purchase is. I’m after the best handbook for reading through and getting a better understanding of the whole reloading process. I am also after a book to guide a beginner and I want the book to cover the data for a .243 Winchester . The Richard lee 2nd edition for $50 seems readily available is this ok for what I’m after. There seems to be an updated edition in 2017, 2019 and then 2021 is there a big difference? Or is there a better book that would suit what I’m after. Any input is always greatly appreciated. Thanks guys

If you want accuracy and consistency, pay particular attention to case preparation and cartridge overall length with the seated bullet

[Nath__111]

Excellent, thanks heaps to all of you that answered I really appreciate the input. Yeah I will check out the downloadable info that you have posted ( thanks heaps ) and watch a bit of YouTube. The simplex press I have has no instructions but I have already spoke to the manufacturer and they are going to get them for me. Again really appreciate all the input, thanks heaps guys

[bladeracer]

I'd suggest chasing up some Large Rifle primers (I prefer magnum primers in all my LR cartridges), and powders, like AR2206H, AR2208 or BM8208. Getting primers and powders will be the stumbling block to getting started. I'm guessing you've been shooting awhile and already have brass? Do you have a preferred factory load? And is that bullet available to reloaders?

87gn VMax is a decent "do everything" bullet in the .243.

[Bugman]

Yep. The 87 VMax is a cracker. It is my go projectile, especially for goats.

[Blr243]

Yep 87 v max. Can’t sleep unless I have a bag of them under my pillow

[bigrich]

Yep 87 v max. Can’t sleep unless I have a bag of them under my pillow

95sst's aren't bad either as a do all . i got 1-8 twist IBI barrel from the big C . still shoots the 87 vmax very tight with around 35gn of 2208 . 40.5 of 2209 will shoot 95 sst's and 95 partitions around .7's at 100

[Madang185]

Yes, there is a huge amount of reloading information on the internet. The real problem is that it is totally uncontrolled and some of it is downright dangerous.

At least loads in reputable manuals were looked at by a responsible editor, same applies to magazines. All internet loads should first be checked against a manual. Some continue to think that maximum manual loads are a starting point. For those who continue along this path I would suggest that it is only a matter of time before you run into pressure problems.

Where manuals differ, and they do, average out the maximum loads and this is the new maximum. But of course you must start at a lower charge and slowly work up looking for pressure signs. Every barrel is different. In the opinion of this writer there are no shortcuts!

[Nath__111]

Hi Guys, Yeah I have done a bit of shooting. I have at the moment around 150 empty shells. I have been using the 80g federal power shok rounds and have found them to shoot really well out of my gun. I have heard a lot about the 87g Vmax and am very curious to try some when I get started reloading. I have found when checking my brass the almost all of the shells are about
•4 of a mm smaller at the neck end of the case compared to the primer (rear) end of the case, does this mean I have to FLR every case? All of the cases I have have only ever been fired once and all from my rifle. Thanks guys.

[cz515]

Hey mate if they are fired from your rifle then they are fit for your rifle. Resize their necks, reload and shoot. You may need to fill resize every 5-10 reloads, do it when the bolt starts to get harder to close.

Regarding books, I think most are very similar. For powder info just look at ADI website

[bigrich]

Hey mate if they are fired from your rifle then they are fit for your rifle. Resize their necks, reload and shoot. You may need to fill resize every 5-10 reloads, do it when the bolt starts to get harder to close.

Regarding books, I think most are very similar. For powder info just look at ADI website

I used to just neck size for accuracy, but find I like full length sizing for smooth, quick chambering in all my hunting rifles. 1/4 inch difference in accuracy at 100 doesn’t mean much for deer or pigs. Extreme varmit shooting would be a different story, but I don’t get to do much of that. I wonder what “Elmer” the long distance rabbit slayer’s loading routine is ?

[bigrich]

Hi Guys, Yeah I have done a bit of shooting. I have at the moment around 150 empty shells. I have been using the 80g federal power shok rounds and have found them to shoot really well out of my gun. I have heard a lot about the 87g Vmax and am very curious to try some when I get started reloading. I have found when checking my brass the almost all of the shells are about
•4 of a mm smaller at the neck end of the case compared to the primer (rear) end of the case, does this mean I have to FLR every case? All of the cases I have have only ever been fired once and all from my rifle. Thanks guys.

If I’m understanding what you’re saying correctly, the cases being.4 narrower at the neck end is so the case having a taper extracts smoothly. Old military cartridge like the 303, 7x57 etc had that designed on purpose for reliability. I had a 358 Winchester in a bolt gun, the case is almost straight walled and didn’t extract that well at times. In my hornady reloading manual, they give the case dimensions in a diagram which shows what the dimensions should be, which is a handy reference at times. Hope this helps. Cheers

[Nath__111]

No worries, thanks heaps for that I’m probably looking into it too much. One other question I had was what is the reason for neck crimping I see some say for target shooting you don’t neck crimp and for hunting you crimp. Just wasn’t sure what that’s all about. Cheers.

[bigrich]

No worries, thanks heaps for that I’m probably looking into it too much. One other question I had was what is the reason for neck crimping I see some say for target shooting you don’t neck crimp and for hunting you crimp. Just wasn’t sure what that’s all about. Cheers.

neck crimping depends on recoil too . my 358 the projectiles used to move out of the case and stuff up the COAL due to recoil . which besides messing with accuracy, could result in unsafe preasures if the bullet is touching the lands when chambered

[bladeracer]

Hi Guys, Yeah I have done a bit of shooting. I have at the moment around 150 empty shells. I have been using the 80g federal power shok rounds and have found them to shoot really well out of my gun. I have heard a lot about the 87g Vmax and am very curious to try some when I get started reloading. I have found when checking my brass the almost all of the shells are about
•4 of a mm smaller at the neck end of the case compared to the primer (rear) end of the case, does this mean I have to FLR every case? All of the cases I have have only ever been fired once and all from my rifle. Thanks guys.

I thought the 80gn Power Shok used the Speer hot-Cor, but I don't see on Speer's site currently. I like the Hot-Cor in all calibers. Cleaver have the 90gn Hot-Cor, but the price is the same as the VMax, and I would expect the Vmax to shoot a little better, especially at longer ranges.

Not sure what you're measuring, but the case is tapered, so the shoulder will be slightly smaller than the case head. The heat and pressure will push the shoulder forward a tiny amount each time, so eventually you will have to bump the shoulder back. Always run your fired brass through the chamber before reloading it to ensure it will still fit the chamber.

You will also need to trim the case mouth when it starts getting too long, but neck-sizing minimizes that. That can also be done in a vice die just by filing the case mouth flush with the surface of the die.

[bladeracer]

No worries, thanks heaps for that I’m probably looking into it too much. One other question I had was what is the reason for neck crimping I see some say for target shooting you don’t neck crimp and for hunting you crimp. Just wasn’t sure what that’s all about. Cheers.

Crimp is mainly done to prevent the bullet moving under recoil in the magazine. But it can also increase neck tension, holding the bullet that little bit tighter while the powder starts burning, which can improve accuracy. I would disregard it initially, but it might be worth playing with when refining your loads. Factory ammo is often crimped just to make it more resilient during shipping.

[bigrich]

No worries, thanks heaps for that I’m probably looking into it too much. One other question I had was what is the reason for neck crimping I see some say for target shooting you don’t neck crimp and for hunting you crimp. Just wasn’t sure what that’s all about. Cheers.

Crimp is mainly done to prevent the bullet moving under recoil in the magazine. But it can also increase neck tension, holding the bullet that little bit tighter while the powder starts burning, which can improve accuracy. I would disregard it initially, but it might be worth playing with when refining your loads. Factory ammo is often crimped just to make it more resilient during shipping.

yeah, what blade said . if you crimp you might need to come back on your powder charge as the extra preasure of the crimp will increase internal case preasure as the bullet tries to break free of the case crimp. honestly wouldn't worry about crimping a 243 but

[cz515]

I have heard people say crimping is good, that projectiles will pop out and spew powder everywhere (plus the above). In 243 I doubt you will ever see that. I have used both Lee collet and redding/Forster bushing style neck resizing dies, never had any issues with projectile moving in any of my calibres.

That's my experience with the 223/6mm or 243/6.5/308/338 calibres.

[wanneroo]

I have a bunch of reloading manuals.

Some powder and bullet manufacturers make data available and there are some general brand manuals out there like Lee or Lyman.

I'd have a mix of all. For instance if you reload Hornady bullets all the time, having their manual makes sense, same if you use a certain powder and the powder manufacturer puts data out there.

If I am going to do a new load, I cross reference all manuals and go from there.

[mchughcb]

The best how to reloading manual is probably an edition of Uncle Nicks Reloading version 9+. It also has the loads in the back of the book.

[Nath__111]

Beautiful that make sense now, Again thanks heaps for the info guys really appreciate it.