DIY loading guide.

Reloading equipment, methods, load data, powder and projectile information.

DIY loading guide.

Post by cavok » 25 Dec 2014, 2:27 pm

The NON definitive every day reloading guide, Rifle and Pistol: 2014 version

Let be at the outset state most clearly, this is my version of reloading, it is my cumulative information/knowledge I have gathered over many years shooting. I am not all knowing on this topic, however the information provided is factual and can be relied upon, using common sense and if in doubt, refer to the manufacturers data, LOl, All care no responsibility. :lol:

I have no wish to mix Charcoal with Saltpetre and Sulphur. I do however wish to support local Australian powders, hence in most cases I use only ADI. Yes I have used Winchester, and Vihtavuori powder. I care little if the load data they supply is tested in Australia or the outback of Siberia, as long as the data is correct. I care not if ADI test their powders in the laboratories of the Mafia or any other establishment. Again, is the data they provide accurate and reliable, are they using data on firearms which are similar to mine. In the end I load powder and projectiles of a different characteristic to that supplied in data, I change recoil spring in pistols and use a 5” barrel which most load data does not address. Data sometimes reflects 4” barrels and Copper jacketed projectiles, this in 9mm and lead projectiles when using a 5” barrel will mislead.

Loading: Those that can do, (and save real money) those that can’t purchase from outlets. I find shop purchased ammunition in 9mm usually has 115grn copper jacketed. The loads depending on brands varies dramatically, and costs heaps. Usually at most ranges if you enjoy pistol shooting you will always find someone will to load for you at a very reasonable price.

RIFLE:
I shoot both .223 and .22 rifles on several occasions during the year. With my .223 I care little about making pretty groups on paper and use the rifle for what it was purchased for. When I need ammunition I never buy any from retail establishments. My usual quota is around 200/300 rounds, purchased from a friend who reload and whatever I am provided with is fine by me. I know that the loads are around 2900f/s, some 75grns and my maximum distance for shooting is around 300 metres.

PISTOL DATA: Loads for 9mm, .38super, .357sig, .45. .38 special and .357 mag.
At this point in time most of my pistol shooting is using my Czechmate in 9mm major. This meant I needed to develop a load and achieve with 100% consistency a Power Factor, of 165.
P/F = Speed of projectile and weight. Using a 125 grain conical lead projectile, (powder coated) Hawkesbury river, small rifle primer, Federal, and 7.4 grns of AP100, OAL 1.12, light crimp. Not sure you will find my load data in any publication, but having used this load for over 12 months my pistol is fine as are the results. I have used similar loads for many years in .38super, but as the case is larger I needed 8.3 grains of powder to achieve 165P/F. The above are my competition loads. (the 165p/f allows me a margin of error because of climatic conditions).

I also shoot a 9mm CZ Shadow in minor P/F, and find 135grn projectile with small pistol primers and 3.5grns Ap50 works a treat, as would 4.1 grns of Ap70. I find the heavier projectile suits the 9mm better.

All competition shooting other than IPSC major allow for lower P/F. Hence in Action match or Service match 120P/F is acceptable, hence load 3.5 grns of Ap50 with a 135grn projectile and all is well. I also use Ap50 in my .38 Special, the amount of 2.8-3grns and a 148grn projectile works well for me.
Yes I know many people who load more powder into many handguns, however all they achieve is greater recoil, and this means a longer time to place the second shot in the target. However some say this is the fun of shooting, and hence they load heaps, more bang for your buck.

Conclusion: ADI like all powder manufacturers are overly cautious with their data, they are prudent in making it clear that if you load more than they suggest the onus is on you, which is correct. Hence they say start low and work up to a load, follow their data and NEVER overload any ammunition.
“When all about you have lost their heads and you remain calm, perhaps you do not understand the problem”.
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Re: DIY loading guide.

Post by Chronos » 25 Dec 2014, 4:39 pm

If you're reading this be aware that 7.4gr of AP100 is almost 20% above the safe maximum load recommended by the company responsible for testing what loads are safe. this load could exceed safe chambers by nearly 6000psi.

I care not what risks take what people take with their own equipment of safety but i can't bare the thought that somebody would read this and take that kind of risk blindly

Chronos
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Re: DIY loading guide.

Post by cavok » 25 Dec 2014, 4:56 pm

Chronos wrote:If you're reading this be aware that 7.4gr of AP100 is almost 20% above the safe maximum load recommended by the company responsible for testing what loads are safe. this load could exceed safe chambers by nearly 6000psi.

I care not what risks take what people take with their own equipment of safety but i can't bare the thought that somebody would read this and take that kind of risk blindly

Chronos



Happy Christmas, Chronos, please there are various pistols on the market, they are called STI, they have match grade barrel, bloody a lot heavier and extreme quality material. Not all pistol barrels are the same, a .38 Mag will fire extreme loads, PLACE the same ammunition load wise into a .38 pistol, result, 1 one new pistol required. Oh, and egg on face.
You would also be aware that some pistol shoot standard ammunition, whatever that is, others shoot +P others still +P+. All different. Few are aware of the difference, yet there is plenty of this production ammunition on the market. Who knows what power factor and the PSI pressure generated when fired, yet some shooters just load the ammunition totally unaware that +P+ is different. Hence, if you don't know ask.

As I said in my post, follow the directions from the load data, never exceed that load data, when you know what you are doing, know what firearm you are loading it for, what type of barrel there is and what the pistol was made for, like the STI Trubor or STI Trojan, with bull barrels, a different story.

As for someone taking the risk of loading my data blindly, then they need to read what was written, Don't load what you pistol will not take.

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Re: DIY loading guide.

Post by on_one_wheel » 25 Dec 2014, 8:10 pm

Yeah I agree that the adi data has a large safety factor written into their maxim load recommendations, I load my .243 a long way past max loads without any signs of excessive pressure. As always, working my way up slowly.
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Re: DIY loading guide.

Post by cavok » 26 Dec 2014, 8:51 am

Here are the thickness measurements of the Two barrels, if interested. Also the photo of the chamber end. Please note that the material used in the production of the barrels from various manufacturers varies significantly, this is another factor to consider. A friend of mine using a LLama .38 super some years ago found that the metal used in the construction of his pistol was inferior to many other manufacturers. LLama is still produced in Spain today.

SP01 Shadow:
Front of barrel inner .355 Chamber inner .392
Front of barrel outer .550 Chamber outer .620

STI Apeiro
Front of barrel inner .354 Chamber inner .391
Front of barrel outer .703 Chamber outer .687

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Re: DIY loading guide.

Post by Jack V » 26 Dec 2014, 10:43 pm

Powder companies have to work on the worst case scenarios. One gun could have a whole lot of tight tolerances and small volume cases that make it show pressure quicker than another gun of the same brand and model made at different times.

Modern commercial manufacturing techniques reduces these types of variations but they still exist in other forms. I know a guy that can't load much over the lowest recommended ADI load in his 243 . It gets hard extraction and sometimes popped primers .

My 243 is 6 grains above that load with the same powder and weight bullet with no extraction or pressure issues although my bullets are moly coated so that may account for 2 grains of powder but I'm still around 4 grains over him on a comparison basis. His gun is really tight in the chamber and bore and we had to buy a small base die to get some new cases to even fit . However it shoots real nice groups so it's no real drama .
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Re: DIY loading guide.

Post by cavok » 27 Dec 2014, 8:23 pm

Firearms, either rifle or pistol come back to the quality of the steel used in manufacturing the barrel and parts. Basically factory ammunition as is, should then be useable in the firearm owned. If someone elects to load their own ammunition, this is where it becomes tricky, either in rifle or pistol.

Knowing that as a rule Sig Sauer have match grade barrel and are some of the better handguns and other weapons is s good beginning. Sig are still to me some of the best quality and reliable handguns made or ever made. Hence we use what, factory ammunition, 115 FMJ hollow points or ? what. Do we know what pressure the round creates in the chamber, do we care, are we are that a pressure is even a consideration. So what do we know?

This is an issue when we buy the pistol from one party, in say Sydney, but we live and buy our ammunition in the back of Bourke. What ammunition a 9mm Sig will take with ease, a P38 or 1941 Luger may not. However on the ammunition it clearly states 9mm LUGER, so why is there a +P on the case? Or a +P+? The same applies to quality rifle barrels, hence be aware of shop purchased ammunition, and if reloading be doubly aware.
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Re: DIY loading guide.

Post by tactice » 30 Dec 2014, 11:07 am

on_one_wheel wrote:I load my .243 a long way past max loads without any signs of excessive pressure. As always, working my way up slowly.


What's "way over" out of curiosity?

And in your 700 BDL yeah?
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Re: DIY loading guide.

Post by Korkt » 30 Dec 2014, 11:12 am

on_one_wheel wrote:Yeah I agree that the adi data has a large safety factor written into their maxim load recommendations


Seems a lot of other sources are aligning more and more with ADI too.

I remember in older versions of the Nick Harvey manual .243 loads were well above ADI maximums.

As versions have gone by the NH numbers are lowering to get closer to ADIs.
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