Dirty 9mm reloads, what am I doing wrong?

Reloading equipment, methods, load data, powder and projectile information.

Re: Dirty 9mm reloads, what am I doing wrong?

Post by Hollywood » 31 May 2016, 6:53 pm

OK, maybe I need to flare some more then as I am shaving lead off on a lot of the rounds when I seat the projectile.
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Re: Dirty 9mm reloads, what am I doing wrong?

Post by bluerob » 01 Jun 2016, 10:10 am

Hollywood wrote:Thanks brett1868, appreciate the advice on this thread. I'm struggling to get the fouling out of the concave sections of the rifling without physically scraping it out from the muzzle end. What solvent are you using?


Get some LeadAway.

I've run patches that come out clean (using Hoppes No 9 etc).

Then ran a patch of LeadAway through. With what came out, you'd think the gun had never been cleaned!

The 3.3 load that I mentioned, is using AP50, not AP70. I'm running 138gn Round nose pills, god knows how many times the brass has been loaded (I look for cracks etc - alot of time on my hands). This is with a Sig X5. My H&K USP eats anything, but, the Sig prefers round nose. Can't get decent groups with anything different.

Its amazing as to the variance with so many different issues affecting different pistols. You never stop learning with this hobby.
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Re: Dirty 9mm reloads, what am I doing wrong?

Post by brett1868 » 01 Jun 2016, 3:17 pm

bluerob wrote:
Hollywood wrote:Thanks brett1868, appreciate the advice on this thread. I'm struggling to get the fouling out of the concave sections of the rifling without physically scraping it out from the muzzle end. What solvent are you using?


Get some LeadAway.

I've run patches that come out clean (using Hoppes No 9 etc).

Then ran a patch of LeadAway through. With what came out, you'd think the gun had never been cleaned!

The 3.3 load that I mentioned, is using AP50, not AP70. I'm running 138gn Round nose pills, god knows how many times the brass has been loaded (I look for cracks etc - alot of time on my hands). This is with a Sig X5. My H&K USP eats anything, but, the Sig prefers round nose. Can't get decent groups with anything different.

Its amazing as to the variance with so many different issues affecting different pistols. You never stop learning with this hobby.


This the Birchwood Casey Cloths" Cut into a patch? or something different?
Maybe these?
http://www.db-shootingsupplies.com.au/kleenbore-lead-away-patches/
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Re: Dirty 9mm reloads, what am I doing wrong?

Post by bluerob » 06 Jun 2016, 11:37 am

brett1868 wrote:
bluerob wrote:
Hollywood wrote:Thanks brett1868, appreciate the advice on this thread. I'm struggling to get the fouling out of the concave sections of the rifling without physically scraping it out from the muzzle end. What solvent are you using?


Get some LeadAway.

I've run patches that come out clean (using Hoppes No 9 etc).

Then ran a patch of LeadAway through. With what came out, you'd think the gun had never been cleaned!

The 3.3 load that I mentioned, is using AP50, not AP70. I'm running 138gn Round nose pills, god knows how many times the brass has been loaded (I look for cracks etc - alot of time on my hands). This is with a Sig X5. My H&K USP eats anything, but, the Sig prefers round nose. Can't get decent groups with anything different.

Its amazing as to the variance with so many different issues affecting different pistols. You never stop learning with this hobby.


This the Birchwood Casey Cloths" Cut into a patch? or something different?
Maybe these?
http://www.db-shootingsupplies.com.au/kleenbore-lead-away-patches/


Brett, I use the exact brand that you've linked to. I think Kleen Bore and Birchwood Casey both make a lead removing cloth. You can either purchase patches already cut or buy a sheet and cut your own to size.

Honestly, if you haven't used this stuff after shooting lead projectiles, you'll be very surprised with what comes out on the patch, even after repeated use of typical firearm cleaners.
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Re: Dirty 9mm reloads, what am I doing wrong?

Post by brett1868 » 06 Jun 2016, 12:21 pm

I cut a strip and wrapped it around an old brush before scrubbing a barrel I "thought" was clean....Took several strips of lead remover cloth and some scrubbing to remove all traces of lead. I dry patched it after each scrubbing and checked with the bore scope for any remaining deposits so I could scrub that specific area. Next experiment will be to shoot some lead and check the barrel with the bore scope then shoot some jacketed rounds and see if it removes the lead cause its far easier to clean copper then to scrub lead.

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Re: Dirty 9mm reloads, what am I doing wrong?

Post by bluerob » 06 Jun 2016, 12:43 pm

Brett, my cleaning procedure for pistol (I only shoot lead projectiles as jacket ammo and FMJ aren't allowed at my club):

1. Wet patch of Hoppes or similar (I've got every brand known...) using cleaner tip that has brass scrubber incorporated.
2. Leave for 5 mins
3. Dry patch
4. Lead remover patch
5. Dry patch
6. Lead patch again
7. Dry patch till clean

Oil the required areas or spray G96 everywhere.....

I use a similar method to above for rifle, but Sweets get used.

Sorry for hijacking thread....
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Re: Dirty 9mm reloads, what am I doing wrong?

Post by Hollywood » 06 Jun 2016, 2:13 pm

Sorry for hijacking thread....


Not all mate, it's all very interesting. I've finally got my Lee Pro 1000 set up. Am having the typical primer feed issues but it's still much faster than my single stage! It appears I may not have been flaring anywhere near enough, the Pro 1000 is setup with a much bigger flare and the projectiles are seating a lot more smoothly without shaving any lead off.
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Re: Dirty 9mm reloads, what am I doing wrong?

Post by Hollywood » 06 Jun 2016, 2:27 pm

Does anyone know of a shop that has the Lead Away cloth in stock, I can't find it anywhere.
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Re: Dirty 9mm reloads, what am I doing wrong?

Post by bluerob » 07 Jun 2016, 8:59 am

Hollywood wrote:Does anyone know of a shop that has the Lead Away cloth in stock, I can't find it anywhere.


Dbshootingsupplies.com.au usually has alot of what pistol users need. Great service and pricing (no, I aint connected).

Also, get rid of the Lee 1000 if you can. I had one once. Drove me insane. Admittedly, I did reload thousands of rounds on it, but, I hated the powder thrower. That bloody chain and those cups that you have to use. I get nightmares thinking about that damned thing.

Bought a Dillon 1050 and its the only way to reload. Yep, they cost a heap more, but, with good reason. My best mate uses a Dillon 650 which is a cheaper option and basically does the same thing.
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Re: Dirty 9mm reloads, what am I doing wrong?

Post by Hollywood » 07 Jun 2016, 9:18 am

A Dillon is out of my price range at the moment, well until tax time anyway! The Lee is working for the moment and so far it's only the primer feed that's giving me grief. I've actually found the powder thrower to be very accurate and hasn't let me down as yet, I do have some chain and a spring for when the Lee chain breaks though. :)
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Re: Dirty 9mm reloads, what am I doing wrong?

Post by bluerob » 08 Jun 2016, 9:58 am

Hollywood wrote:A Dillon is out of my price range at the moment, well until tax time anyway! The Lee is working for the moment and so far it's only the primer feed that's giving me grief. I've actually found the powder thrower to be very accurate and hasn't let me down as yet, I do have some chain and a spring for when the Lee chain breaks though. :)


Funny that. I never had any dramas with primers (apart from dropping them) when I owned the Lee 1000. Powder thrower was a bastard until I modified it.

Yep, Dillon aint cheap (the 1050 is considered to be a commercial level press), but, it'll last me until I kick the bucket.

I did plan on shooting alot more than I do (hence the 1050 buy). Maybe one day....
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