9.3x62 options for brass and dies

[scotty87]

So picked up my haenel jaeger orange camo in 9.3x62 yesterday and am trying to figure out the best place to start for brass and dies.

All my LGS are sold out of the PPU and sellior and bellot factory rounds so that's not really an option for getting affordable brass.

I can get hornady unprimed cases for about $89.90/50pk and projectiles are readily available with woodleigh looking like a good option for $71/50pk.

Using an excel reloading cost calculator from this site the first lot of loads would cost about $3.60 a shot which is about the same as the cheapest factory rounds I can find in stock, which is the Geco 255g SP, for $72.20/20pk.

So the question I pose is would hornady/American brass be better than Geco/Czech brass?

As for dies I can get hornady 2 die kit FL size and bullet seating die for $143 or a Redding neck size die for $108. How often would you need to FL size cases in this calibre or should I get a neck sizing die only? Can you neck size with a FL sizing die?

Any help appreciated, plan to load woodleigh bullets with ar2208 once I've got brass.

[Wm.Traynor]

The base diameter is 0.476 { wikipedia} which is close to 30/06.
Would that do for brass if it is cheaper?

[scotty87]

There is some info online how to fire form from 30-06 but the consensus seems to be its better to use the factory formed 9.3x62 offerings.

[scotty87]

Thought I'd throw up some pictures, colour is not for everyone but I quite like it although it's almost blinding under direct sunlight!







Thinking I might end up going with 40 rounds of the Geco factory ammo and buying some speer hot core 270gr semi spitzers for practice loads as they only run $44.95/50

As for scope and mount I'm not even going to think about that for the time being as the combination I want is looking to cost me about 2k, steiner ranger 2-8 x 42 and recknagel eramatic swing off mounts.

[<<Genesis93>>]

I've got a spanking new die set, and maybe a few spare unused PPU cases...
Was planning a 9.3 build, but for mid bore I'm sticking with the 375....

I'm sure the dies are Redding, I'll look for them if you're interested..

nice purchase

[ozbluei]

Order the dies from Brownells. Yes you need FLR dies in addition to neck sizing dies and no you can't neck size with FLR dies. About every 5 loads you need to FLR. I'd start with the cheapest projectiles you can find and go from there.
I've got about 10 cases I picked up from the range. Just get hold of whatever cases however you can. You'll lose them in the heat of the moment while hunting anyway.

[scotty87]

I've got a spanking new die set, and maybe a few spare unused PPU cases...
Was planning a 9.3 build, but for mid bore I'm sticking with the 375....

I'm sure the dies are Redding, I'll look for them if you're interested..


nice purchase

Swing me a pm I'm definitely interested

[MattyP]

I built up a custom 9.3 on a Brazilian Mauser. Wolther barrel Swarovski z3 3-9. I use both Norma and lapua brass as both are very consistent. 57.5 gn Ar 2208 for a average velocity of 2505fps with 250gn Acubonds. If I do my part right 3 rnds shoot 1 big raggedy hole.

[MattyP]

if you are going to reload your first lot with good components at the same price as cheap factory load go with the good hand loads because good gear gets cheaper and cheaper every time you use it. i to paid the extra to have open express sight swated on and have never used them. If you plan on using it for samber in low light conditions go with the high end optics but entry level is well and truly adequate. If you are shooting buff and pigs in the top end than Leopold 2-7 is more than good enough. Nothing worse then a big heavy cumbersome scope to take the enjoyment of walking in the thick bush.

[scotty87]

if you are going to reload your first lot with good components at the same price as cheap factory load go with the good hand loads because good gear gets cheaper and cheaper every time you use it. i to paid the extra to have open express sight swated on and have never used them. If you plan on using it for samber in low light conditions go with the high end optics but entry level is well and truly adequate. If you are shooting buff and pigs in the top end than Leopold 2-7 is more than good enough. Nothing worse then a big heavy cumbersome scope to take the enjoyment of walking in the thick bush.

It's so light compared to my .308 which is laminate stocked, sporter barrelled Howa with Leopold two piece steel bases and rings and a vortex viper 2.5-10. I kind off don't want to ruin it with heavy optics but like the idea of a quality low power variable, I was looking at 1-4x optics but feared the objective would be too small for low light conditions, Leopold does have some good offerings in the low power variables though.

[Wm.Traynor]

scotty87
"........but feared the objective would be too small for low light..."
To cut a long story short, he's right.

[<<Genesis93>>]

I'll look for the gear over the weekend .......

[MattyP]

I had the Leupold vex 3 1.5 - 5 x 20 on it whilst I was Living in Darwin and it was perfect. Light and compact. Now that I live near the Vic border I think exactly the way you do, it's not letting enough light in, in particular in the deeper gullies. That why I went the the Swaro. It has a 36mm lens but very good glass. Still light to carry though. Any more than 9 power just overkill for the 9.3 as it just doesn't have the ballistics for long range stuff. And a samber on 9 power at 300m there is still a lot to look at. I carry mine set at 4 and lives 99 percent of the time on that. Beef it up to 9 when I'm playing on the bench.

[Homer]

G'Day Fella's,

Scotty87, the Haenel is a very under rated rifle in Australia!

Iirc, Lapua make 9.3 x 62 brass, and it is probably one of if not the best brand available.
Also, one of the best choices for Hunting bullets, is www.woodleighbullets.com.au .

Hope that helps

Avagreatweekendeh!
Homer

[Oldbloke]

scotty87
"........but feared the objective would be too small for low light..."
To cut a long story short, he's right.

I agree. I have one for sale if you want it.

Buy a respectable 3-9×40 or 50 And leave it set on 3 or 4 in the bush.

[scotty87]

I end up getting simplex dies and norma unprimed brass and the speer 270gr SP since they are the cheapest projectile I've seen.

Going to load from 57-58.5gr of AR2208 in 0.5gr increments using ADI data for OAL.

Should I size the new brass? I've done some googling, some say FL size others say neck size only as the new brass should be formed for a minimum chamber already, so FL sizing won't achieve anything.

Thoughts?

[Wm.Traynor]

FWIW
I always run the expander ball through the neck and back out. The mouths are not always round. Screw the rod waay down so the neck is not resized.

BTW, I am one of those people who lube the insides of the necks with powdered graphite on a smaller calibre, bristle brush

[scotty87]

FWIW
I always run the expander ball through the neck and back out. The mouths are not always round. Screw the rod waay down so the neck is not resized.

BTW, I am one of those people who lube the insides of the necks with powdered graphite on a smaller calibre, bristle brush

I end up running them into the neck sizing die and loaded up about 17 rounds, 8 @ 57gr and 3 each @ 57.5, 58 and 58.5

Plan was to use the first five of 57gr cleaning after each shot, and the other three as fouling shots for groups, I end up just shooting through all the 57gr loads two at a time cleaning after each group. Stopped short of shooting groups due to only having the iron sights.

Sights are good for minute of pig @ 50m though, put the dot so it's covering the middle of the large SSAA pig target and got two shots in the middle x.

Recoil is stout on the bench but the rifle weighs next to nothing without a scope. I'm looking forward to scoping it.

[Wm.Traynor]

Scotty87,
It was my practise to reverse a SSAA target and shoot at the back with bead sighted rifles. There is often no contrast with the bead with some of their targets and I did not really know where I was aiming. Not a recipe for good groups. As long as their target is big enough to project past the bead so you can centre it, you should have no trouble. Take a long straight edge and draw diagonals to find the centre of the target, if you want to zero the sights.