Brass cleaning

[colinbentley]

I have seen a number of videos on cleaning brass. Some de cap before cleaning, while another I have seen de caps and then cleans. The latter seems to make the most sense. What is the general opinion ?

[juststarting]

I suspect it's a preference and availability of the tools.

Decapping happens in one of two ways... 1. DIY (horrible) or universal/dedicated decapping die; and 2. using a resizing die which generally has a decapping pin.

You want to clean before you start resizing, to keep contaminants out of resizing die, so if you have a universal decapping die, you'd decap first. If you don't, then tumble first and decap as part of the resizing process.

Alternatively, you could clean, decap and resize, then tumble again to take care of primer pockets and lube residue.

[bladeracer]

I never clean my brass, ever. I'll wipe them off if they're particularly dirty but that's it for me.

[Apollo]

I never clean my brass, ever. I'll wipe them off if they're particularly dirty but that's it for me.

So, how do you inspect all your cases for defects and signs of imment failure like cracks / head seperation. I suppose it depends on how dirty they may become like just a couple of firings to a few dozen per case.

[bladeracer]

I never clean my brass, ever. I'll wipe them off if they're particularly dirty but that's it for me.

So, how do you inspect all your cases for defects and signs of imment failure like cracks / head seperation. I suppose it depends on how dirty they may become like just a couple of firings to a few dozen per case.

I would guess I inspect them the same way you do. Maybe your brass gets a hell of a lot flithier than mine does but I have no problem watching the pressure ring and measuring the case heads.
Some of mine are into the dozens.
This is probably my most used brass for the .204, some are well over two dozens loads. Never cleaned and never full-length sized.
I don't throw my brass around though, I endeavour to catch them at ejection, not always successfully, but they rarely get near dirt.
My 9mm IPSC brass was almost black after dozens of loads, I still have some of it.

[Apollo]

It looks like you might have "clean skin" meaning there isn't a great deal of tarnish on those cases. Some I have seen from people who are not the same, the cases are extremely dull and tarnished just from handling with their hands.

Some just don't care.

BTW There isn't much sign of carbon around the necks so you must have a good load, with a good seal in the chamber. Or, you wipe the carbon off before it hardens.

Some of my cases well over 12 reloads....

[bladeracer]

It looks like you might have "clean skin" meaning there isn't a great deal of tarnish on those cases. Some I have seen from people who are not the same, the cases are extremely dull and tarnished just from handling with their hands.

Some just don't care.

BTW There isn't much sign of carbon around the necks so you must have a good load, with a good seal in the chamber. Or, you wipe the carbon off before it hardens.

I don't spend a lot of time fondling my brass
But my handling is usually enough to almost remove any texta I might have marked them with by the time I have them reloaded and ready for new markings. Maybe every tenth round I might have to have a bit of rub with a thumb to remove the last bit.

Light 2400fps loads are sootier but still not too bad, those are 4400fps 24gn loads. Remington .22 Cyclone is the filthiest ammo I've seen in a long while. that stuff comes out coated in soot.

[bladeracer]

I'm one of those that doesn't care if my ammo is pretty or shiny.
I only care that it works and that it's not doing any harm to the chamber.
I forgot I have some .222 brass left from the eighties that has had many, many loads and also was never cleaned. I'll have to dig it out some time as it's even grubby than my .204 brass.

[Apollo]

Sorry to go off topic but you have inspired me to dig out my Sako 85 .204R that hasn't been shot for years and remembered I have a couple of hundred Nosler CC Cases that haven't even been opened yet.

I mainly did use a Sako S491 .22BR, the right hand case pictured above.

[bladeracer]

Sorry to go off topic but you have inspired me to dig out my Sako 85 .204R that hasn't been shot for years and remembered I have a couple of hundred Nosler CC Cases that haven't even been opened yet.

I mainly did use a Sako S491 .22BR, the right hand case pictured above.

I was about to ask you what the cartridges and bullets were
For the .204 I have 100 Norma for the hot stuff and 100 Hornady for Trailboss loads.

[Apollo]

Left to right, from memory. 6.5x47 Lapua 130gr Berger VLD, 6mm BR 68gr Berger FB and 22 BR 52gr Berger Varmint... I think.

Nosler Custom Competition, if you didn't know are fully prepped, weight sorted Norma Cases. Expensive but great as it takes out the idea of a whole lot of cases that are quite different to the norm. My .204Ruger I haven't used much, have Federal & Hornady cases as well but they just aren't in the class for consistant accuracy.

How about some dirty cases and I seen people use something like these. Found in my shed in an old rusted tin. From back in the 1970's Winchester .243W Cases and they cleaned up very well .....

[bladeracer]

Left to right, from memory. 6.5x47 Lapua 130gr Berger VLD, 6mm BR 68gr Berger FB and 22 BR 52gr Berger Varmint... I think.

Nosler Custom Competition, if you didn't know are fully prepped, weight sorted Norma Cases. Expensive but great as it takes out the idea of a whole lot of cases that are quite different to the norm. My .204Ruger I haven't used much, have Federal & Hornady cases as well but they just aren't in the class for consistant accuracy.

How about some dirty cases and I seen people use something like these. Found in my shed in an old rusted tin. From back in the 1970's Winchester .243W Cases and they cleaned up very well .....

I don't bother weight batching brass or bullets, except for my cast bullets as they can vary a couple of grains.
I certainly wouldn't use those .243's without a very thorough cleaning

[Mitch]

I use a Harvey de-primer (is handheld), then stainless tumble, lube, size, trim etc, then tumble again to remove all the lube

[Rifle realist]

GDay Apollo
I am interested in a 6.5X47 Lapua for an fclass rifle maybe six months time Barnard action 1:8 twist barrel. Do you shoot fclass of Br and how does the 6.5X47 go?
Re cleaning brass, I decap, sonic clean, resise trim/chamfer and then tumble until bright and shiny, it's easy to see any problems and the brass looks good at the range. It is also a lot easier to find ejected brass when hunting in the bush.

[TheDude]

I use a Lee universal decapper or for the black powder cases that won't fit in the die I use a decapping pin, block of wood with a hole drilled in it and a mallet. Bit slower than a die but don't go through too many snider cases at a time

[Apollo]

GDay Apollo
I am interested in a 6.5X47 Lapua for an fclass rifle maybe six months time Barnard action 1:8 twist barrel. Do you shoot fclass of Br and how does the 6.5X47 go?
Re cleaning brass, I decap, sonic clean, resise trim/chamfer and then tumble until bright and shiny, it's easy to see any problems and the brass looks good at the range. It is also a lot easier to find ejected brass when hunting in the bush.

I'm sorry all but this is going to be a little off topic to answer this question.

Firstly, on topic. I clean all my cases and polish to a virtual mirror finish and keep them that way. I will not run dirty cases through my dies. If I had field cases that are not clean I would deprime with a universal deprimer then clean before they go anywhere near my normal dies. I don't clean every reload, it depends on what condition the cases are in but if and when I clean they go in the ultrasonic first, then dried, then in corncob tumbler for hours. Finally they are wiped to remove any dust etc whilst I study each case to look for faults.

The off topic part.

I have had a practise at F-Class Open and I don't like it for the simple reason is I don't think it challenges accuracy enough. I can't shoot prone for medical reasons so all I do is shoot off a bench. However, I have taught a mate and his son target shooting and reloading. They both can and do shoot prone but simply don't like the idea so never got them to go to an NRA Range to shoot F-Class. We shoot 300 Metre and 500 Metre Benchrest Fly.

My Mate shares his rifle with his Son so they shoot twice in the one detail, all bullets are pointed and moly coated. At the last two shoots in NSW each of them had a 1st Place Win in Light Gun Class (under 17lb) and these are National Registered Matches. I've not shot competition for over 12 months due to medical reasons and when I did obtained a 4th place at my first ever competition, plus best target and smallest group which was close to a range record. 1.182" which has now been beaten but 1.000" at 500 metres for 5 shots is no easy task.

The 6.5x47L at short range...ie 500 Metres performs extremely well with 130gr Bullets and AR2208 powder. 123gr Lapua Scenars very close behind at around 2,950 fps. Long range in the USA they really push the 139/140gr with like AR2209, completely different story.

I use a Stolle Grizzly, Remington 700 and Tikka T3. The Mate and his Son use a Barnard S all in the same calibre.

Sorry for the Off Topic.

Edit...BTW

We also shoot a category called "Factory Class" and I use a .243W which has placed 1st, that's a 300 Metre Competition.

[colinbentley]

Thanks Mitch, you have just made my day. I didn't know a handheld de-priming tool existed. In fact that was a question I was going to post. Seems like I have to pay by cheque to get one (bit of a pain ) but it has to worth the wait. Surprised they're not readily available. Thanks again.

[colinbentley]

No Mitch I was wrong, you can order on line which I have already done. What amazes me is that everyone isn't using one of these.

[bladeracer]

No Mitch I was wrong, you can order on line which I have already done. What amazes me is that everyone isn't using one of these.

It adds work. I deprime as I size the brass.