Reloading and forum newbie

[taffy4x4]

Hi Guys, I'm new to this forum so this is my first post. I have just started reloading for my Tikka T3 Stainless Varmint .308 with a Lee Classic loader Kit and my first attempt was using one flat scoop of ADI 2208 and Hornady 165Gr SST, these were hammered in until the crimp line was just visible and produced results slightly better than factory loaded which I was really pleased with as I know my Tikka Varmint is far more accurate than I am. I think the next step is to vary the seating depth and also try different projectiles. Any advise would be gratefully appreciated.

[juststarting]

Get scales. Volumetric measurement are a bit rough. Also, hope you mean seated with a die, not actually hammered.

Other than that, what advice are you after specifically?

[taffy4x4]

Hi juststarting, thanks for the quick response. The scoop comes with the kit, and you do have to hammer the projectiles in with a mallet, if you look up the kit on youtube you will see what i mean. As for advise, I'm looking for things like what weight projectiles seem to work best with the Tikka's 1:11 twist and is there much difference between manufactures.
Cheers.

[juststarting]

Uh! Ok, you are talking about Lee Classic Loader. I am sorry, brain just went to classic press or whatever. My bad.

I load for a similar rifle. Mine is T3 CTR. I haven't found any projectiles it doesn't like yet, between 150 and 168 gr, using 2208.

I found that 168 (anything) and 165 (in my case woodlieghs) shoot well in general and 150 works well with a mild load a lot more. But like you said, it could be me.

Regarding manufacturers, I shot Hornady, Sierra, Nosler and Woodlieghs and they all work just as well. Fly and everything. Just need to play around with powder ammounts. That's about it. Start at a minimum and work up.

I would suggest that you consider a bit more equipment thought. Definetly scales, callipers and eventually you will need a case trimmer.

Hope this helps.

[Seik]

Welcome Taffy.

About your reloading.

Bit of a tricky spot with the simple reloading kit.

Try different projectiles by all means, but know it's going to be a bit of a gamble what the result is.

Ideally if you've got a bullet/load that shows some promise you'd tweak it for the best result.

Try different seating depths, as you can with your kit.

Ideally you'd want to try a few different powder charges in 0.1 increments up and down from your first load, but you need a measure and scales for that rather than a scoop. Something for the future if you expand your kit.

But yeah, experiment with the seating depth. Search for seating depth "just off the lands" as that's usually best. You can play with the crimp too for different results.

[bladeracer]

Hi juststarting, thanks for the quick response. The scoop comes with the kit, and you do have to hammer the projectiles in with a mallet, if you look up the kit on youtube you will see what i mean. As for advise, I'm looking for things like what weight projectiles seem to work best with the Tikka's 1:11 twist and is there much difference between manufactures.
Cheers.

I recommend using a vice rather than a mallet, although the mallet is quicker and less fiddly.

[Gwion]

I recommend upgrading to a press and get scales while you're at it!

[juststarting]

Gwion, lol. And dies, trimmer, calippers, Alan key set, tumbler, pocket cleaner... $60 for a Classic kit vs $1500 for proper setup, not an easy argument from savings point of view.

[juststarting]

N.B. but I completely agree with Gwion.

[Gwion]

All my gear cost around $500 and has paid for itself at least 2-3times in reduced ammo costs in the last 3years.

That's RCBS stuff and Lee gear is much cheaper. Press, scales and dies are the bare minimum you need.

Those classic loader things are really just intended for loading a few rounds in the field, IMO. Sure you can use them and they will work but taking a mallet to a live round would make me extremely nervous!
Besides, how exactly do you 'play around with seating depth'? One extra tap with the hammer, slightly harder hit... Get out the 20oz ball pein...???

[bladeracer]

Besides, how exactly do you 'play around with seating depth'? One extra tap with the hammer, slightly harder hit... Get out the 20oz ball pein...???

The bullet seating stem is adjustable...

[Oldbloke]

I started out with two of the Lee classic loaders. They only neck size, well mine did.
They can produce decent ammo even if they are slow.
The Lee kits seem to be the best value at about $240

[juststarting]

I started out with two of the Lee classic loaders. They only neck size, well mine did.
They can produce decent ammo even if they are slow.
The Lee kits seem to be the best value at about $240

OB, I just had a look at mine and mates (got to drop it off for him) in different caliber, then Intertubes and you are correct for all of them. I always thought it does FL, incorrect on my part. Now need to go and edit the incorrect response.

[taffy4x4]

I would like to say thank you to everyone that responded to my post. I have found that I actually enjoy using the Lee kit, I think it's got something to do with me being a tradie and being used to hitting things with a hammer. At present I don't get the opportunity to shoot much so I can't justify the cost of a proper press, however that may change in the future. It also good to see an Australian forum with many knowledgeable and helpful users. I am not an avid forum poster,but I will certainly be asking questions when I need help. Once again thanks for the replies and I'll let you know how I go.posting.php?mode=reply&f=3&t=7685#

[Oldbloke]

If you carefully pour powder into the scoop from a consistent height. Then scrape off the excess using a business card you get surprisingly consistent loads.
Also it's pretty easy to make adjustable scoops. I used them for ages. I will post a pic later today.

[Oldbloke]

So, here is a pic of an adjustable scoop. The thread is 1/4" whitworth & probably a 3006 case. Ideally a set a scales would compliment them.

IMG_20170225_185337.jpg (58.21 KiB) Viewed 3468 times