pomemax wrote:bigrich wrote:looks like a "out of the box thinking" approach pomemax . different syle with the horizontal rollers, but it automatically "ejects" the treated case. wonder if some enterprising aussie could start making them ?
why would you he ships to here
skipps Black bettly aint seen that in a few yearsApollo wrote:Look up "Skip Annealer" he is a nice bloke... Moved from WA to Mexico (Victoria)...
Rod_outbak wrote:Stix,
I'm about to build my own blow-torch annealer; pretty sure I have assembled the gear I should need, and then some extra odds & ends to tweak the design.
It might be a month or so before I'm underway, but I should have an idea of what gear I've bought will work, and what is a waste of time.
The parts required have been a confusing mess to figure out, and it's been pretty frustrating at times.
[If you do go the path of making your own, let me know if you'd like a short length of nylon rod, to use for the drum that picks up a case from the hopper. I ended up buying a metre of heat-tolerant nylon rod 80mm diameter, and I'm pretty darn sure I wont ever use half of it. It's supposed to be tolerant of temps up to around 100 degrees.
See http://www.engineeringplasticsonline.co ... ory/30-rod for specs]
I'll let you know how I get on.
Cheers,
Rod.
Stix wrote:So...im using a yellow trade flame blow torch to try this annealing caper...& im having trouble seeing any colour changes in the brass as its heating...this is due to the flame really.
Ive tried in dim light , no light or normally lit room...no luck seeing any colour changes in the brass itself.
Is there any way of telling by the flame itself...?
Any tips would be great.
Cheers
Stix wrote:So...im using a yellow trade flame blow torch to try this annealing caper...& im having trouble seeing any colour changes in the brass as its heating...this is due to the flame really.
Ive tried in dim light , no light or normally lit room...no luck seeing any colour changes in the brass itself.
Is there any way of telling by the flame itself...?
Any tips would be great.
Cheers
Stix wrote:bigfellascott wrote:Never done it, still using cases that are around 30yrs old (222) the primer pockets seem to wear out (get loose) more than anything else I've noticed.
Only 30 years old eh...i need to anneal some original "Super" .222 Rimmed cases that are over a decade older than that mate...the old man gave them to me when i stole his rifle 10 pound...!!
The neck tension on them is all over the place & starting to split now so they need annealing...!!!
sungazer wrote:Stix I found the Templix crayons to be next to useless. At least the way i was using them. for a start they are not like a crayon in fact they dont really draw on brass at all they have a crumbly texture so if you are turning the brass like you should it falls off. I have been using the yellow bottles slightly hotter than the blue and even trying 700 and 750 it turned black under the flame very quickly. I the 223 cases go very quickly and even on a 308 case I just let it turn pink to just orange at the most.
Havent pursued the induction for a while spent money and time on other projects.
bigfellascott wrote:Stix wrote:bigfellascott wrote:Never done it, still using cases that are around 30yrs old (222) the primer pockets seem to wear out (get loose) more than anything else I've noticed.
Only 30 years old eh...i need to anneal some original "Super" .222 Rimmed cases that are over a decade older than that mate...the old man gave them to me when i stole his rifle 10 pound...!!
The neck tension on them is all over the place & starting to split now so they need annealing...!!!
I think I have 10 boxes of them brand new sitting in my ammo cabinet. Might get around to useing them one day maybe?
I don't bench rest shoot so dropping em all in one hole group isn't that important to me, so long as it snots whatever I'm shooting in the field first shot is good enough for me.
No1_49er wrote:sungazer wrote:Stix I found the Templix crayons to be next to useless. At least the way i was using them. for a start they are not like a crayon in fact they dont really draw on brass at all they have a crumbly texture so if you are turning the brass like you should it falls off. I have been using the yellow bottles slightly hotter than the blue and even trying 700 and 750 it turned black under the flame very quickly. I the 223 cases go very quickly and even on a 308 case I just let it turn pink to just orange at the most.
Havent pursued the induction for a while spent money and time on other projects.
If you apply the Templaq to the INNER surface of the neck, it will not be impinged by the flame and will behave as it's supposed to do.
Ziad wrote:Can I ask, when doing annealing how do you tel that you have gone too far and the case is cactus